50 replies to this topic

[Mad Mark]

wondering what everyones opinion is for a scratchbuilt sidewinder 36d? I have both configuration motors. seems like you get more room running endbell drive but it wouldnt be as solid as can side drive?

[Bill Seitz]

Back in the day (when I didn't know any better) I ran them both ways. Today, unless I only had an endbell drive motor or bracket, I prefer can drive. Usually makes a more solid connection, particularly because the plastic in the old endbells isn't as good, especially after all this aging.

[Dave Crevie]

It depends. If you are fitting a motor to an already built chassis, you will have to go with whatever way the chassis was designed for. If you are going to build the chassis, and the motor has screw holes in the can end, that is the way to go. The steel can end is much stronger than the plastic end bell.

[dc-65x]

If you need the room for wide tires or are using a narrow body, end bell drive is the way to go:

 

 

You can attach the motor to the chassis at both the endbell and the can by simply drilling a couple of holes in the can and soldering in some 2-56 nuts:

 

 

If you are scratch building your chassis you can have it both ways, endbell drive and a solid motor attachment:

 

[Mad Mark]

thanks guys. Ill take pictures of what Im working with. wanted to use the spare lotus 30 body that came with the Manta ray. seems most period correct body I have. pretty narrow though.

[Mad Mark]

Heres what Im working with. dont really have any other options for rear tires at the moment. also only have one motor bracket. Id have to fab one for the other side. should I Oval out the holes to make gear mesh adjustable or just set it perfect and make it solid?

I need to grind off another 1/8 on those rubber rear tires.

[dc-65x]

Hi Mark,

 

An adjustable motor mount for different gearing is always nice but it's up to you. One thing though is that "gear theory center distance between gears" states that you can use different sizes of pinion and spur gears as long as the total number of teeth of the two is the same. For example a 16T/48T (64 teeth total) would have the same center distance as a 14T/50T (64 teeth total) for a 3:1 ratio or a 3.6:1 ratio.

 

So you can vary the gear ratio that way without having to move the motor. I know this works for me with Weldun gears but I'm not sure if it would with different brands of pinion and spur mixed together.

 

Also, depending on your chassis design your motor could be locked in place with that style motor bracket. Just something to think about.

 

Looks like a great project and thanks for sharing it here with us. 

[Mad Mark]

This is a lot more complex than building an inline. having a hard time just figuring out how to jig this up. Figured Id get the motor and rear axle squared away then go from there. not sure how Im going to attach rear axle yet. thinking of space frame style but not much room to work with. almost thinking about sanding paint off the can and soldering axle housing to that. dont think that is very 1965 period correct though.

[Mad Mark]

[dc-65x]

Hey Mark, check out this Bob Braverman build in Rod & Custom Magazine:

 

Chaparral - Morrissey/Braverman sidewinder

[Mad Mark]

Thanks Rick that is the era Im going for. looks like I had the same idea of holding the motor down as you haha. whats weird is my can seems twisted to where I cant get it to lay flat and sighting down it it does in fact look slightly twisted. Weird.

[Mad Mark]

So just decided to go straight to the can EBD, now I have to figure out the rest. thinking Im better off running main rails to rear axle since the motor brackets arent tied into the rear axle all the force will be on the endbell. or I make the can a stressed member since I already ruined it. also got rear tires ground down. That was a nightmare. was able to put tread on them for fun with a little hobby saw.

[dc-65x]

Looking good Mark. I think you're right. You might not need that motor bracket anymore.  

[Phil Smith]

That looks good, but I probably wouldn't have used a clean Russkit like yours. There's plenty of other clean 36D motors that sell for cheap on eBay. Like K&B and Cox.

 

PS: Nobody else seems to care all that much for them, but I'm a big 36D fan. I've got a lot of them, including a complete set of new in the tube Champion 36Ds that I bought off of Gator Bob. I probably way overpaid for them, but I like them so what the heck.

[Bill from NH]

36Ds can be a lot of fun to race under the right setting. I raced mostly Champion 707s & a Pittcan from 1967-69 when I first started commercial racing.

[Mad Mark]

That looks good, but I probably wouldn't have used a clean Russkit like yours. There's plenty of other clean 36D motors that sell for cheap on eBay. Like K&B and Cox.
 
PS: Nobody else seems to care all that much for them, but I'm a big 36D fan. I've got a lot of them, including a complete set of new in the tube Champion 36Ds that I bought off of Gator Bob. I probably way overpaid for them, but I like them so what the heck.

yeah could have used something else but I have another brand new russkit so oh well might as well enjoy it and use.

[Mad Mark]

Having a hard time designing rest of chassis. keep wanting to revert to lower CG jaildoor design but want to keep it older style space frame.

[dc-65x]

Mark, if you want an "older style space frame" you should go ahead and build one. It will get around the track just fine and you can experience 1965.

 

Try it, you'll like it!  

[Martin]

Hey Mark, throwing my hat in the ring, as this design may be of help to you?

Can is stressed member and no need for end bell mount.

Look forward to seeing what you come up with, enjoy.

Of course this design works with can drive and maybe it is too late for that option?

Attached Images

• 
• 

[Mad Mark]

Hey Mark, throwing my hat in the ring, as this design may be of help to you?
Can is stressed member and no need for end bell mount.
Look forward to seeing what you come up with, enjoy.
Of course this design works with can drive and maybe it is too late for that option?

thanks Martin. I kept thinking of that chassis when trying to come up with ideas. I didn’t center the can so that design is going to be a little tricky. also thinking I should wait and use brass rod instead of the tubing I have.

[Mad Mark]

This is the best I could come up with after much deliberation. sorta looks like a can am chassis which works I guess since people where trying to copy real race car construction back then I think. going to add some trellis looking braces and wide goofy drop arm. not sure on body mounts. Id like to use existing holes on a old body but always ends up being very difficult.

[dc-65x]

Very cool Mark.

 

Rodney recently told me of how he used the existing holes on a body. Solder a piece of 1/32" thick brass strip to the outside rails. Hold the body in the correct position, mark through the existing mounting hole with a Sharpie and drill for a pin tube or screw.

 

Not sure if this would work in your situation. 

[Mad Mark]

Very cool Mark.
 
Rodney recently told me of how he used the existing holes on a body. Solder a piece of 1/32" thick brass strip to the outside rails. Hold the body in the correct position, mark through the existing mounting hole with a Sharpie and drill for a pin tube or screw.
 
Not sure if this would work in your situation.

that was way to easy and simple for me to think up! Good idea might end up doing something like that.

[Mad Mark]

Almost done. just needs some drop arm reinforcement and body mounts.

[dc-65x]

As a lover of space frames I salute you sir!