12 replies to this topic

[Flathead]

My latest acquisition running on a champion snuggler with stock motor.
I know this body has been talked about before on here, but was wondering if any more info had come to light since then?








Any info appreciated. Regards Lee.

[Jairus]

Superaredodinamica by Unicar.  There are quite a few variations of this body from Italy.

[Flathead]

Thanks for the input Jairus but pretty sure it's not a Unicar body.
See this old thread below.
http://slotblog.net/...d/?fromsearch=1

[Maximo]

I believe that particular body is from old Detroit rather than Italy. Many of the Detroit Raceways that were competitive with each other produced their own bodies to compete with the Shinoda boys.

 

Gene Adams makes this variant while Victor Ferguson makes the other. The Truescale body is called "Predator" and the GenesWorld version is called "Terminator".

 

I still have no idea what it's original name is and who created it, and even Phillipe hasn't chime in about this mystery ever.

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[Jairus]

David, you and I have had this discussion before.  Yes, it may be a Detroit variant, but the proportions and lines are Unicar and I stand by that.

[Martin]

Had to look for myself.

I can see some family Unicar DNA. But the USA reworking variant (if that is what happened) gave us a much better looking body IMO.

 

Not ruling out the possibility of pure design coincidence. Its not like that has not happened many times before. 

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[Flathead]

I'm thinking just coincidence, as the shape seems to be dictated by the chassis being used in 67- early 68. Body is essentially function over form, being flat with minimum of bulges to clear axle assemblies, motor & guide post, with only the latter being a concession to styling with the rib up the nose.

I'm with Martin the US body is much better looking than the Italian.

[Flathead]

I've done a bit of work on this so thought I'd post it up. Normally I wouldn't modify something like this but body didn't fit the snuggler, sitting way too high and wheelbase was way off. Initial idea was to straighten body, bend front axles to get the wheelbase and drop the body mount somehow which turned out would never clear both chassis & body, so when axle snapped instantly upon tweaking it my plan changed to do it properly whilst keeping it correct to period.
As bought;

I could have gotten the body straighter but I noticed colour was changing with every application of boiling water. Chassis modified with 1/16 piano wire frame & axle, motor is a rewound K&B with arcos and a very neat balancing job. Slap on some original Russkit decals, job done. (Barring swapping stainless body screws to brass when I find 4 that match)

[Martin]

Looks really great Lee, well done, great save. Really shows off the color and great choice of numbers.

[Bill from NH]

Lee, your modified body mounting system is much better than the stock Champion elephant ears. I used those during the late '60s on Champion RTR 36D cars.  

[Martin]

Looks like you have given it a "slider" body mount also. Does it have much movement?

A nice way to better support the body from curling in also.

[Flathead]

Looks like you have given it a "slider" body mount also. Does it have much movement?
A nice way to better support the body from curling in also.

I did consider it Martin but lack of clearance rear wheel to wells & motor to windshield negated that.
Front tubes serve to extend the original broken frame & are soldered solid, rear tubes are soldered to the outriggers only forming a hinge and allowing a little sprung movement, but it also meant that I had a way of adjusting the ride height of the body by tweaking the frame near the front, turns out I didn't need to.
A slider is on my to-do list, probably for a loose original Shinoda body I have.

[Martin]

I did consider it Martin but lack of clearance rear wheel to wells & motor to windshield negated that.
Front tubes serve to extend the original broken frame & are soldered solid, rear tubes are soldered to the outriggers only forming a hinge and allowing a little sprung movement, but it also meant that I had a way of adjusting the ride height of the body by tweaking the frame near the front, turns out I didn't need to.
A slider is on my to-do list, probably for a loose original Shinoda body I have.

I should have seen that there would be clearance issues. Look forward to seeing a new Thingy build in the future.