29 replies to this topic

[Mark Onofri]

Anyone have a Slick-7 build or kit they want to post? I have several kits but, I've been waiting to assemble them. I'm sure I'm not the only one with interest in them.

[Bill from NH]

Slick 7 made all sorts of kits, such as wing car, scale, retros, & others. What do you have? I have an old 1/24 eurosport kit & one for  I-15, both unbuilt. Each came with a "how-to" sketch. I don't know if Slick 7 still produces slot car parts, but I haven't seen their ads in ages.

[Mark Onofri]

Going to unpack them shortly. I have some Int-15's and some euro spots. I'm pretty sure I have a 1/32 euro sports also.
Always thought they were great looking. They were expensive when new/current and, they show up on evilbay often for equal amount or less. Fortunately, less , until people read this 🤣!!!

[Mark Onofri]

Billnh, good question. There web site is still on but, it's not current. Mid-America lists them, sometimes.
Yah, the instructions started out iffy and then got way better. I'd like to collaborate with everyone who has the ones I'm missing and post it in the history section

[Bill from NH]

My Slick 7 eurosport kit cost me $10 in an eBay fire sale. Those chassis rust badly once they're built unless you coat them with an oil or an anti-rust product such as Boeshield. Ask you friends what they use on their cast iron tool beds such as table saws & jointers. If I still had a local track, I'd build the eurosport kit & put an FK motor in it.

[Mark Onofri]

I was thinking about gun bluing. I've heard paste wax was good for table saws.

[Bill Seitz]

I've seen Bill Fernald's post asking if Slick 7 was still in business and the responses which say yes, but most of the product is no longer available from distributors and there haven't been any new chassis in ages. A raceway/hobby store I visit still has some Slick 7 NOS which I've been slowly buying when I visit there. The Slick 7 chassis product was excellent, except for the rusting you've mentioned (unplated spring steel).

[Mark Onofri]

Thanks BillS, anything you want to post would be appreciated. I'll try to take some pics tonight.

[Mark Onofri]

I'm starting to find these. This one is missing a page of instructions. It's somewhere.
If I remember correctly, this is a
S7 SR-15 it might be a SRI-15
One more page cont.

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[Mark Onofri]

I'll post the missing one soon

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[Mark Onofri]

This one l got from Lou's place in Schenectady NY. There's more but it's all I got. Anyone???

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[Bill from NH]

I forget what the instructions were that came with my partial Slick 7 kit, it's been so long since I looked at it. None of those you posted ring a bell, so I may have something different.  But I'll save what you posted.

[Mark Onofri]

This is the S7-627 Retro F-1 chassis.
The instructions are off a little. They should be,
1)tin all areas BEFORE removing parts from the tree.
2) is ok
3) Solder ALL square tubes, and the.047 wire. Do not solder front uprights
4) omit soldering the square tube, you've done that in 3. Now, insert the front axle before soldering the front uprights*, and follow directions for rear.
5)&6) are ok.
* Note: You might also want to use some 3/32 wheel retainers.
I've got a few more suggestions but, you'll have to tune in tomorrow.

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[Mark Onofri]

I almost forgot,is this legal for IRRA and other similar governing bodies?

[Mark Onofri]

Ok, Dominic the Dominator has spoken. Because the motor/axle bracket is KEYED(operative word) the bracket is illegal. Clearly stated in the rules.
Joining by use of KEYS is prohibited. Didn't even cross what's left of my mind that it applied to the bracket. On the other hand, it is part of the chassis.
I'm very relieved to hear that. I was just about to take a framing hammer to it. Really. It's a B***H to get together,on or off the chassis.
Not to push the issue but,I'd imagine if I cut the tabs/keys off...
It's for practice anyway. But....????

[Bill from NH]

If the tabs are difficult to go into the slots, as sometimes happens, make the slots wider. Usually plating causes this but your parts are raw brass. The keyed tabs provide strength & alignment. And you said you had 7 or 8 Slick 7 kits to build?

[old & gray]

IF (big if) I were building this kit (I have a Can Am kit), I would:

Cut the material from the outside of the slots for the struts,

Fit the width on the inside of the slots to the bracket you are using

Trim .032 (plate thickness) from the bottom of the motor mount side of the bracket

After soldering in the bracket and the rails (.062 wire) solder an "L" brace from the end of the rail to the motor mount face

[Mark Onofri]

O&G, no framing hammer? A little late for the advice. Only kidding.
I think that had I not tinned the bracket assembly, it would have been ok. Another thing, as Pablo calls it, the brass "potato chips" from the heat required to solder all of the parts.
Yet another issue I had is the .063 rails. It made it tricky to solder the.047 "bite bar"? The centre square tube would have to be larger or shimmed to touch the chassis.
Overall, it's a nice kit. Very well engineered ( for the most part). How it works,IDK.

[Mark Onofri]

Yes Billnh, I do.(have several)
After all the years of doing this, I still get toooo excited and rush instead of relaxing while doing them. Having done (almost) this one,at least I'm more acclimated to their design philosophy.

[Mark Onofri]

In the second photo, that little, unexplainable kick in the left rail befuddled me for years. I've still got a lot of " almost, but not close enough" bent rails.

[n.elmholt]

I have this Slick7 chassis kit - Instruction and one rear axle holder is missing - anybody interested ?? - send me a PM

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[Mark Onofri]

Well, I managed to get it together. I strongly advise anyone who is attempting to build a brass Slick-7 kit to
1) check the fit.
2) be careful what you tin.
3) it says,"can be assembled with out a jig". Use a jig .
4) this is the important one
BE CAREFUL HOW MUCH HEAT YOU USE
The motor bracket was so many joints that the chassis will become a brass contortionist.

[Mark Onofri]

More to come

[Bill from NH]

I would have cut a wooden block to fit inside the motor bracket, then used it as a jig for soldering the pieces together. Have you got more brackets to build?

[Mark Onofri]

I haven't opened the others yet. I'm pretty sure this is the only brass one. Like I said, had I not tinned the parts, it would have been easier. The heat is still a issue, knowing that now, it wouldn't be again.