7 replies to this topic

[TheyCallMeTheMayor]

Good day, gents,

 

I indeed took the plunge and invested in some beautiful Difalco adjustable controllers (Jim - I thank you!) in a two-wire config.

 

I've googled up "wiring up two-wire slot car controllers" and I'm just making sure I've got the best plans as not to burn anything up once I get started. Now, beware... I haven't soldiered anything since my old WILD ONE and BLACK FOOT RC car... so, I probably don't even OWN an iron anymore, BUT -  I have a few friends who are always willing to race, work, drink beer, get away from the wives, or honeydew list, and help out...

 

I read somewhere to avoid the 1/32-based diagrams cuz most wire for brakes, and since I'm a two-wire, no brakes.

 

 

I'll be building driver stations soon, similar to the above pic (again minus brakes)

Once done, I'll be wiring up.

 

Would anyone be able to share a bit of insight, or maybe link to the best how-to in time for Sunday or next please?

 

Lastly, please note that I'm not adding any other type since none of my rookie racers own controllers.

 

Thanks!!

 

MM

[Bill from NH]

My recommendation would be to contact Jim Difalco. He would know how those controllers are built & if the connection is as simple as black to black & white to white.

[Bill Seitz]

White typically comes straight from the power supply positive, and black goes to the track positive rail, usually right rail/braid. The track negative rail/braid, usually left, goes to power supply ground or negative. The controller should be white to white and black to black in this configuration, but Jim Difalco can provide guidance. On track wiring with brake, the red connection goes direct to power supply ground or negative. This is the wiring configuration used with commercial raceway tracks in the US.

[Phil Smith]

I went by this when I wired my track. It's so simple even I can understand it.

 

[TheyCallMeTheMayor]

Thanks guys,  and Phil - that's the one I printed out    So am I just ignoring the red brake wire altogether then? Seems almost too simple or missing something. Also, How do I know which rail?

 

MM

[MSwiss]

http://slotblog.net/...ollers-at-home/

 

 

[Phil Smith]

Thanks guys,  and Phil - that's the one I printed out    So am I just ignoring the red brake wire altogether then? Seems almost too simple or missing something. Also, How do I know which rail?

 

MM

Yes Mark. Just ignore the red brake post. i haven't used the brake posts on my Max Trax HO track, but I think it's better to have it and not need it than it is need it and not have it.

[Jim Difalco]

All the advice above has been good. One issue that HO racers run into when upgrading from resistor to electronic controllers is with direction of travel switches. Since transistor controllers are polarity sensitive any switch installed to change the direction of travel must be between the hook up panel and the track. Installing a switch between the power supply and the hook up panel will cause a short circuit at the controller as the track has now been changed to negative polarity.

 

Of course, with Mark's 2 wire controller, you can go really crude on the direction of travel set up.  Just reverse the power supply terminals then hook up the controller white clip to black stud and black clip to white stud if you want to run the track in reverse.