20 replies to this topic

[Trent]

I got back into slot car racing about a year ago after a brake since 1977, I have bought a few CanAm and F1 chassis from other builders but I think it is time to try my hand at building my own. I am not yet set up to work with sheet brass so I plan to start with one of the available chassis kits.

 

I am looking for recommendations on picking a quality chassis kit, possibly rookie friendly and suited for a flat track racing,

 

[Pablo]

I've built two of these. Very precise therefore easy to build. Both cars were TQ level on my local flat track

 

Dominator Jackal Pro chassis - The Parts Counter - Slotblog

 

Here is a Pablo step by step Dominator Jackal Pro IRRA legal Can Am build:

 

Jackal Pro IRRA legal Can-Am - Pablo's Builds - Slotblog

 

There is no such thing as a "rookie-friendly" chassis kit. Buy a quality proven kit - you'll spend less time fighting sub-standard parts and more time learning.

[Eddie Fleming]

The JK3DX25R commonly called the JKX25 shows up in Can-Am race reports all over all the time. The kit is available from JK or any raceway.

[Vay Jonynas]

I've built two of these. Very precise therefore easy to build. Both cars were TQ level on my local flat track

 

Dominator Jackal Pro chassis - The Parts Counter - Slotblog

 

Here is a Pablo step by step Dominator Jackal Pro IRRA legal Can Am build:

 

Jackal Pro IRRA legal Can-Am - Pablo's Builds - Slotblog

 

There is no such thing as a "rookie-friendly" chassis kit. Buy a quality proven kit - you'll spend less time fighting sub-standard parts and more time learning.

 

 

Do those Jackal Pro chasses require anything more than a little screwdriver and wrench to assemble?

 

[slotcarone]

 

 

Do those Jackal Pro chasses require anything more than a little screwdriver and wrench to assemble?

 

These are scratch built chassis that are soldered together. They are for Retro racing.

[slotcarone]

Most important thing Trent is do you have the correct soldering equipment and know how to use it?

[Trent]

Thanks for the input.  I sent an email to check on the availability of the Dominator chassis and the JK chassis seem to be readily available,

 

Yes, I feel comfortable with my soldering skills, but I understand that scratch building may require refining a different set of skills,  I have a Hakko 600 and plan to use silver solder.  If that works out not to be a good combination, I will upgrade if needed.

 

I know that "rookie friendly" wasn't the best term, but the comments on finding the quality kits is spot on and is the purpose of this thread.

 

I would welcome any additional comments but this is a big help for taking the first steps.

Thanks.........Trent

[old & gray]

Dominator Chassis | Facebook

 

Current information

[slotcarone]

I suggest using regular 60/40 tin/lead solder and make sure you have plenty of acid flux too. Very important to scuff the pieces to be soldered with scotchbrite first to get a clean surface.

Always start out with a small amount of solder and let it flow into the joint. If there is not enough then you can apply more acid and add more solder. Always apply the solder from the tip of the iron. The solder on the tip will allow the heat to transfer to the metal.

[snolde]

Yes 60/40 solder CLEAN the PIANO WIRE THOROUGHLY first with fine grit sand paper and then wet a paper towel with 91 % rubbing alcohol and wipe the piano wire with the wet paper towel. the piano wire needs to be oil free and shiny clean for a strong solder joint.

 

A scratch building jig is great to line things up and keep them in place for soldering. Not absolutely necessary but very handy.https://e-slotcar.co...s-jig-psc-2002/

This is one that I use, there are others as well.

 

Hope you enjoy building as much as I do!

[Trent]

That is the jig that I have, bought it used from one of the local racers.  I got the rear jig blocks and pins with the jig.  Looking for the front jig wheels.

Good to know 60/40 solder and acid flux works.  I just assumed that silver solder would give me more strength.

Thanks for all the advice.  I feel sure you will see more posts from me over the next few weeks. 

[Bill from NH]

Silver solder builds a chassis stiffer than 60:40 or 63:37. It would require extra track time before the chassis was broken-in & its joints had their ultimate flex

 

Trent, silver solder is stronger than the other two, it's also harder to work with, Most slot car chassis don't need the extra strength.

[Dominator]

Hi Trent, I did see your email this morning.  I have the Jackal Pro kits available for $80 plus shipping.  While I never got around to writing a tutorial for the Jackal Pro here is a LINK to tutorial (post #2) I did for the Jackal that you may find useful.

[Trent]

I found your FB page but could not figure out how to buy one.  The website listed on FB sent me to some really cool racing products but didn't find any slot car stuff.  I want one, just let me know how to do it.

[Vay Jonynas]

 

There is no such thing as a "rookie-friendly" chassis kit. 

 

You realize of course that you've just put your finger on what's kept slot car racing in the doldrums for decades and prevented the hobby from growing.

 

There should be "rookie-friendly" chassis kits out there! And good ones meaning perhaps not good enough to compete with the seasoned racers at the big name tracks but good enough to stay on any track more than decently and thus be fun to drive. And the "rookie-friendly" definition should include no additional tools required for assembly other than the little screwdriver and wrench provided with the kit. After all, that's what Monogram, Revell, AMT and Cox did to turn slot car racing into an overnight sensation in 1964-65.

[Eddie Fleming]

I used silver solder back in the day but use only 60/40 now. I think my chassis are better with the 60/40.

 

On the occasion I think a joint may need extra strength I will sometimes scuff the wire contact surface with a dremel cut off wheel to give the surface teeth for the solder to flow into. It may or may not help but I feel better about it.  

[Samiam]

 

You realize of course that you've just put your finger on what's kept slot car racing in the doldrums for decades and prevented the hobby from growing.

 

There should be "rookie-friendly" chassis kits out there! And good ones meaning perhaps not good enough to compete with the seasoned racers at the big name tracks but good enough to stay on any track more than decently and thus be fun to drive. And the "rookie-friendly" definition should include no additional tools required for assembly other than the little screwdriver and wrench provided with the kit. After all, that's what Monogram, Revell, AMT and Cox did to turn slot car racing into an overnight sensation in 1964-65.

That would be any of the dozens of "Flexi" chassis available or 1 pc steel and brass stamped chassis out there.   Retro represents the wire and brass post 63-65 factory chassis era.  

 

Disclaimer : This is just my "Unqualified" opinion.

[Bill from NH]

If someone wants to just run an "I built that" chassis, they don't need a kit. There are plenty of chassis on here, eBay, Facebook & other online places. Spend some time & find something that appeals to you. Then clone it. 1/32 designs can be scaled up to 1/24 & likewise, 1/24 designs down to 1/32. 1/32 retro racing was tried but ended due to a lack of interest.

[NSwanberg]

My rule is I get a motor bracket and a guide tongue. Some of my builds are better than others I have done but still it is all fun. Keep It Simple Stupid.

[crazyphysicsteacher]

Whatever is done, take the jk motor bracket and run it over with your car. Then get an rgeo or Dom motor bracket for your build. You will be miles ahead and avoid a lot of frustration as the jk bracket is way too thin.

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[Eddie Fleming]

Whatever is done, take the jk motor bracket and run it over with your car. Then get an rgeo or Dom motor bracket for your build. You will be miles ahead and avoid a lot of frustration as the jk bracket is way too thin.

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I would add Mike Swiss motor brackets to the list of good motor brackets. Swiss brackets ship flat and require bending to shape but are machined to bend properly. They come in multiple sizes with axle hole sizes for bearings or axle tubes.