8 replies to this topic

[LiqTenExp]

Hello,

 

I've got a few local Womp races I will be attending, sample rules attached. Looking for some setup advice. What makes these things go well around a Hillclimb track?

 

Some questions I have:

1. Front wheel height: Touching or elevated, if elevated how far?
2. Front track width: Wide as rear or narrower?
3. Added weight: Where and generally how much?
4. Tire compound (assuming 13/16" size): Looks like treated or fish is preferred? What do you run?
5. What else?

Thanks!

 

 

[John Luongo]

Interesting rule set. Should be a fun race.

 

What's the braid depth on the track?

[Tim Neja]

From the rule set, it doesn't look like any modifications are allowed. Best bet would be to get a hold of one of the locals that race them and ask for their advise. FWIW.

[MG Brown]

It confuses me when there is a nationally recognized set of womp rules (AWRA) that a raceway feels that they have to re-invent the wheel.

 

Getting rid of old inventory?

[Brian Czeiner]

1. Front wheel height should be just touching the track. You should feel resistance when spinning the front wheel without moving the car. 

 

2. front track same width as the rear. Think of a tight rope walker with the long pole. The longer pole provide stability. Womps are not stable.

 

3. I was never fond of weights but modern motors are turning much faster these days and its easy to over power a womp chassis.  The amount of weight is track specific but it can go one of two places. Either right behind/under the front axle or split between each side forward of the motor. I know that doesn't help much but driver preference comes into play here.

Before adding weight, try adjusting your braid recoil. You want the braid flat with spring back no more then half the guide depth or less. The womp it snappy under quick acceleration and quick to de-slot. Set your braid so it loses power before coming out of the slot. Turn down your sensitivity too. If all else fails, then add the weight. Extra weight means extra weight to slow down and corner too. 

 

4. tires are track specific because of surface finish. Run what the locals are running.

 

5. In my opinion, rear bushing alignment and gear mesh are the largest robbers of speed in womps. You need the bushings to align where you can drop an axle from the top to the bottom when the chassis is on its side. The bushings should fit the axle well too. Lots of slop means lots of chatter. I would take a tight pair of bushings and polish the inside with metal polish and Q-tips until they fit snug but spun smooth.

 

Set your gear mesh as you would any other gear with just a minimal of backlash. Many womps chassis don't have the armature center-line line up with the axle centerline. This causes a bind in the mesh. With the old pink gears we simply warmed the pinion on a running motor until the noise went away. Then reset the mesh. Others would use tooth paste or some form of gritty polish to do the same thing. What is being done now, I don't know. I still have a large stash of pink gears and haven't been forced to cross that bridge.

 

6. If you have chatter problems coming out of the corners, you are likely getting too much grip. Since the rules require O-ring fronts, consider trimming your rear tire width.

 

7. Womps are less forgiving and require different driving then other chassis. Smooth is fast. You may need to change your driving technique to braking earlier in the straights and accelerating more through the corners.

 

8. Last and most important, have fun. Womps are comical and unpredictable. Enjoy them for what they are.

 

 

These are my opinions and have worked for me, my son and others I have coached to reduce lap times. But they are not, by any measure, the final or only answer. Womps are evolving quickly as more racers are developing the tricks to make them handle better and go faster.

[LiqTenExp]

1. Front wheel height should be just touching the track. You should feel resistance when spinning the front wheel without moving the car. 

 

2. front track same width as the rear. Think of a tight rope walker with the long pole. The longer pole provide stability. Womps are not stable.

 

3. I was never fond of weights but modern motors are turning much faster these days and its easy to over power a womp chassis.  The amount of weight is track specific but it can go one of two places. Either right behind/under the front axle or split between each side forward of the motor. I know that doesn't help much but driver preference comes into play here.

Before adding weight, try adjusting your braid recoil. You want the braid flat with spring back no more then half the guide depth or less. The womp it snappy under quick acceleration and quick to de-slot. Set your braid so it loses power before coming out of the slot. Turn down your sensitivity too. If all else fails, then add the weight. Extra weight means extra weight to slow down and corner too. 

 

4. tires are track specific because of surface finish. Run what the locals are running.

 

5. In my opinion, rear bushing alignment and gear mesh are the largest robbers of speed in womps. You need the bushings to align where you can drop an axle from the top to the bottom when the chassis is on its side. The bushings should fit the axle well too. Lots of slop means lots of chatter. I would take a tight pair of bushings and polish the inside with metal polish and Q-tips until they fit snug but spun smooth.

 

Set your gear mesh as you would any other gear with just a minimal of backlash. Many womps chassis don't have the armature center-line line up with the axle centerline. This causes a bind in the mesh. With the old pink gears we simply warmed the pinion on a running motor until the noise went away. Then reset the mesh. Others would use tooth paste or some form of gritty polish to do the same thing. What is being done now, I don't know. I still have a large stash of pink gears and haven't been forced to cross that bridge.

 

6. If you have chatter problems coming out of the corners, you are likely getting too much grip. Since the rules require O-ring fronts, consider trimming your rear tire width.

 

7. Womps are less forgiving and require different driving then other chassis. Smooth is fast. You may need to change your driving technique to braking earlier in the straights and accelerating more through the corners.

 

8. Last and most important, have fun. Womps are comical and unpredictable. Enjoy them for what they are.

 

 

These are my opinions and have worked for me, my son and others I have coached to reduce lap times. But they are not, by any measure, the final or only answer. Womps are evolving quickly as more racers are developing the tricks to make them handle better and go faster.

 

Thanks. I was in full alignment with everything you said above, the braid comment was the only area where I missed an opportunity. I had never considered how to evaluate braid recoil and and why you would set it up with more or less. Thanks!

[LiqTenExp]

Interesting rule set. Should be a fun race.

 

What's the braid depth on the track?

 

TBD and I have a full set of washers at the ready to set this height once I get there as it will be the first thing I check out. That is why I was asking about the front tire height.

[NSwanberg]

Add lead until it slows down and then add some more lead.

[John Luongo]

i would initially try some weight at the front end, under the axel and see what happens. with front wheels touching and rolling, i never had a womp style chassis work without added weight. still a fun project!