3 replies to this topic

[Slot Car Rod]

This slot car has a resin body from Germany.  It is a model of an Abarth 2000 Sport Spider from 1968.  They were successful hill climb race cars, and were powered by a 2-liter rear-mounted engine (yes, rear and not mid-engine).

 

I wanted the car to look like a period slot car, so a Pittman 65 motor, Cox brass chassis and wheels were chosen.

 

At first, a Pittman 65 motor with laminations shaved to create a higher revving motor at the cost of some torque loss was tried.  The car had a higher top speed, but was a little sluggish out of tight turns, The motor was replaced with one with stock laminations.  The second motor worked better in the car.  The shaved lamination motor is probably better suited for a lighter car (a vacuform body car with magnesium frame maybe?).  Both motors are 6-volt versions.

 

The body is mounted with screws (with slop) and body posts.  The body took a bit of fiddling to fit the windshield and headlight covers.

 

I achieved the period slot car look with the car, but the performance and drivability has been a challenge.  With Paul's rear tires installed, the car hopped around tight turns.  With Gel Claws tires, the hop is gone.  Handling is still not very good.  I guess it is hard to tame a short car with a heavy motor.  

I am still thinking about what could be done to improve handling.  Not every slot car build is a performance gem.  This one has been a challenge.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

First motor with shaved laminations

 

In order to reinstall the plunger/spring assembly, I first strung Marklin copper train wire through the bare spring.  I then inserted a 4-40 Allen wrench or a piece of piano wire in the spring that has the inserted wire.  I then twisted the wire until the spring compressed.  Then I removed the Allen wrench and carefully inserted the plungers.  This assembly was then installed in the motor.  The wire was cut, and the spring expanded.  If someone has a better method of doing this, please share your method.

 

Brush assembly installed and copper wire ready to cut.

 

Allen wrench removed and plungers installed.

 

 

 

 

 

[Lone Wolf]

Nice, don't know where you find the time and ambition to do all these cars.
 

I know first hand that these " non-kit " builds take lots of time, planning and fiddling.

 

Oh, and skill too. 

 

Pretty involved on your brush spring thing.

 

I too have not found the "secret procedure" on this. 

 

We need to find someone who worked at Pittman 60 years ago I guess.

 

Anyway, the first thing you need is lots of extra parts for these old motors for the lost and broken bits when you attempt this.

 

Secondly, make sure no kids are present to hear the things that come out of your mouth as the parts fly off to somewhere never to be seen again      

 

 

I've used a clamp to hold the brushes as shown.

 

Not the answer but it helps.

 

I also use the type spring as shown on this Ram-Boochie motor.

 

I think Rick uses these a lot.

 

If you can't find this type I think you have enough talent to make one out of wire and insulation.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Slot Car Rod]

Great idea, Joe.  Here is one I just tried.  Fits great.

 

Spares are needed.  The Pittman plungers break just by looking at them!  The parts do fly an incredible distance.

 

I told Rick about the mediocre handling of the car.  He built a similar-sized car years ago, powered by a Pittman 65.  It was a 1/32nd scale Cobra.  He said the car worked great with German tires.  He suggested grinding down these tires.  Also, try grinding the sides if they are too wide.

 

Here are the German tires on the car.

 

They really work on the car.  It handles great now.  Thanks, Rick.  I think the German tires have less grip than the other tires and let the car slide just the right amount in the corners.

 

Tire test. German tires on car.  Paul's urethane tires. Gel Claw tires. 

[Pablo]

That's great you got the handling dialed in