20 replies to this topic

[Mike Permanian]

I love my 1/24 JK. What is your opinion of JK 1/32 vs NSR and the rest of the 1/32 family?

 

Thanks,

 

Mike

[rmjlmartin]

Do you mean on a plastic track, or a commercial wood track?

 

I have a couple of the 1/32 stamped steel Flexis (C1 and C5, I believe), and they're fun to drive at my local raceway. I kinda wish there would be enough interest to race them, but they're fun to play with. I'd avoid a Hawk 7 or Hawk Retro, but a Hawk 6 works well in them.

[Tim Neja]

The 1/32 JK FLexi cars are ballistically fast compared to any NSR or Slot It plastic cars.

I have both for my home track and they're fun--but need to run in their own class.  

[Mike Permanian]

The 1/32 JK FLexi cars are ballistically fast compared to any NSR or Slot It plastic cars.

I have both for my home track and they're fun--but need to run in their own class.  

Thank you for the info. I will pull the trigger soon.

[Mike Permanian]

I just went back to the JK website and there are no specs. Would someone please go to the website and take a look and tell me what I am looking at.

[MSwiss]

Where are you planning to run the car?

 

On a commercial track or in someone's basement or garage?

 

The catalog tells you what you are looking at.

 

The M7 is the stock number for a Hawk 7 so this particular car is probably better suited for a 100 ft. + commercial track.

 

We use to run these years ago when they first came out (10 + years ago?), in the local flat track series.

 

They were perfect for my 117 ft. track with some real tight turns.

 

I thought they were great.

 

Lots of bang for your buck.

 

[Mike Permanian]

Thanks for the info. I race on the wooden track at MId-America Buffalo Grove IL. I also have a Carrera Evolution track in my basement. Which I practice on and see what tune ups work

Mike

[MSwiss]

Just curious, do commercial guides work on the Carrera track, untrimmed?

[Ramcatlarry]

YES.

[Ramcatlarry]

Just curious, do commercial guides work on the Carrera track, untrimmed?  yes.

 

Most plastic chassis slotcars use 18-23 K (rpm) motors for 'smaller home' tracks. Most of the 1/24 commercial cars use 40- 50 K motors that can overwhelm the plastic track power sources.

 

 

[Dave Crevie]

We did have a lot of fun with these on Mikes flat track. I also raced them with the basement group I belonged to at the time they came out. They ran good on the plastic track with 25,000 RPM motors and urethane rear tires. But the group was anti-lexan body cars, so we mounted home-set hardbodies on the chassis, and that didn't work out as well as some had hoped. So the whole thing just died.  

[Mike Permanian]

We did have a lot of fun with these on Mikes flat track. I also raced them with the basement group I belonged to at the time they came out. They ran good on the plastic track with 25,000 RPM motors and urethane rear tires. But the group was anti-lexan body cars, so we mounted home-set hardbodies on the chassis, and that didn't work out as well as some had hoped. So the whole thing just died.  

 

Why didn't hard bodies work out? I was contemplating on putting a hard body on.

Thanks

Mike 

[Tim Neja]

The flexi chassis are designed to work best with LIGHT lexan bodies.  Hard bodies don't handle near as well--defeating the purpose.

[MSwiss]

I'm guessing one issue was the long guide lead on the JK chassis.

 

You would most likely have to trim quite a bit of the front bumper.

 

I always thought simple brass scratch builts, using  the 1/32 Slot it, Fly, Monogram/Revell bodies, would be great.

 

But even simple chassis are more work than a lot of guys want to get involved in.

[Mike Permanian]

I'm guessing one issue was the long guide lead on the JK chassis.

 

You would most likely have to trim quite a bit of the front bumper.

 

I always thought simple brass scratch builts, using  the 1/32 Slot it, Fly, Monogram/Revell bodies, would be great.

 

But even simple chassis are more work than a lot of guys want to get involved in.

 

Thank you for the info. I build model cars. A lot of the bodies that I have fit the JK 1:24 very good. I just gotta figure out how to be able to switch the Lexan body and the hard body back and forth. With out buying a 2nd car.

[Dave Crevie]

We found that having that much more weight mounted on the shaker pans, moving around and bumping on the pan stops, caused the center section to pop out of the slot. Adding a lot of weight in the middle of the center section helped a lot. Locking down the pans so they didn't move also helped. But in the end, it was all just too much work for guys who wanted to race a true RTR that needed no work to run.  

[Mike Permanian]

We found that having that much more weight mounted on the shaker pans, moving around and bumping on the pan stops, caused the center section to pop out of the slot. Adding a lot of weight in the middle of the center section helped a lot. Locking down the pans so they didn't move also helped. But in the end, it was all just too much work for guys who wanted to race a true RTR that needed no work to run.  

I was thinking about soldering an L shaped piece of brass to each side of the chassis and use Velcro to secure the body to the chassis? Would the added weight of the brass be enough to help?

Mike 

[Dave Crevie]

Velcro won't hold. You'll end up taping the body on. The weight is needed on the chassis center section, but too much is needed. The chassis just wasn't designed for the weight of a hard plastic body. I built a couple of slab brass "Chicago Pan" inline chassis that worked well. But I couldn't convince guys that were dead set in just buying an RTR and slapping it down on the track. Couldn't get them to build anything. 

[Mike Permanian]

Thank you for all the info.  I do have a lot to think about. Putting the hard body on would just be for fun.

Mike

[MG Brown]

The JK 1/32 chassis is more closely related to 1/24 flexi-type chassis cars of its time period than it is to homeset plastic chassis cars.

 

I once heard it referred to as a JK X-25 that was left in water too long.

 

Suggestion: Instead of mounting a hardbody, you may want to look at Betta and Classic's line of vacuum formed .010"-.015" 1/32 shells.

 

 

Please direct questions to: sales@bettaandclassic.com

[Ramcatlarry]

The wheelbase of the JK 1/32 is a bit long to fit many plastic kit bodies.  Womps have both the 3" and 3 1/4" axle locators and fit many of the bodies better.  Those sides can be narrowed as well for better fit.  The Sprints Plus narrow frames can also be widened.  The 'truer' scale MAC bodies that Parma made for many years are also becoming available - Retro 1/32 anyone?