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#1 studentdriver

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Posted 19 November 2023 - 07:21 PM

At this point I'm just looking to get basic paint to stick, stay and not cause issues with the plastic/lexan of the body.

 

1) I got tamiya from ERI and it was horrible. All the colors ended up cracking and falling off almost immediately after drying

2) I then moved to traxxas paint and that was better except for the color blue. Seems like it didn't "stay" that well after several coats (seemed washed out after 2-3 coats even).. Then I noticed it was making they body almost turn to a leather and dissolve. Other colors didn't seem to have this issue though perhaps it's because I was trying to have the blue not be nearly as transparent.

 

I'm not looking for concourse anything.. I just want to do basic painting and have it work and not have stupid/unexpected issues. With vendors not having bodies in stock I hate having mess ups and having to throw out bodies.

 

The only other thing is that sharpie markers seem to run when painted over.. Do I need to do sharpie on the outside? Seems like it'll just eventually get rubbed off?

 

thanks,
Mike

 


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#2 Cthulhu750

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Posted 19 November 2023 - 07:51 PM

mike are you washing the bodies first with soap and water? that has always helped with my paint.


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#3 Bill Seitz

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Posted 19 November 2023 - 07:55 PM

The only paint that I've had consistent results and stayed stuck to the body is Pactra solvent-based lacquer for R/C. After a horrible experience with Tamiya acrylic then, I've not been willing to try any of the acrylic-based (water-soluble) paints again. While there are health concerns using lacquers with volatile solvent, it's the only paint I trust to stay on a Lexan slot car body. Rumor has it that Pactra R/C was out of production for a time after Testor's bought Pactra, but I think it is being made again, and I've still been able to at least find rattle cans of the stuff at my local hobby store and at other locations on my travels.

 

I've been told that automotive solvent-based lacquers also work well on Lexan. The key to paint adhesion on Lexan seems to be the solvents in lacquer and having a clean surface. Cleaning with detergent (including Windex) leaves behind a film of detergent. Best results are achieved by using an alcohol wipe to remove any residues, visible or not, and air dry before painting. The lacquer is also built up in thin coats which are likely more flexible, so more resistant to peeling off as the body flexes.



#4 Bill from NH

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Posted 19 November 2023 - 08:05 PM

Do you want to paint by airbrushing, using spray cans, or brushing it on, If you have had an adhesion problem, are you first washing the bodies in soap & warm water? A dish soap such as "Dawn" works well & will clean off any remaining mold release agent. Use markers on the outside of bodies. If some gets rubbed off over time, just redo it. One better black marker than a Sharpie is a non-porous marker by the Japanese company Sakura. They come in several tip sizes down ro .005. Craft shops should have them.

 

What type of Tamiya paint did you try? Solvent-based or acrylics? Did you thin it with anything, if so what? I personally haven't airbrushed any Tamiya paint, only because I have other brands locally that I can use. If I had to, I wouldn't hesitate to use Tamiya paints. Many others have & I don't recall that problems developed. If you want a cheap acrylic paint, look at the craft paints in a department store or hobby supply store such as Micheal's or Hobby Lobby. Usually, a 4oz. bottle will cost between $1-$1.5. Folk Art is one brand I have used, but their are others too. I have recently heard that the Parma acrylic colors are now available again.

 

I airbrushed bodies with solvent-based paints for 35 years, except for a 15 yr. window when my kids were small. In 2005 i changed to all acrylics & haven't been disappointed since. My cans & bottles of solvent -based paints were given to a friend who worked in a 1:1 body shop. 


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#5 Bill Breck

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Posted 19 November 2023 - 08:35 PM

 

Do you want to paint by airbrushing, using spray cans, or brushing it on, If you have had an adhesion problem, are you first washing the bodies in soap & warm water? A dish soap such as "Dawn" works well & will clean off any remaining mold release agent.

If you want a cheap acrylic paint, look at the craft paints in a department store or hobby supply store such as Micheal's or Hobby Lobby. Usually, a 4oz. bottle will cost between $1-$1.5. Folk Art is one brand I have used, but their are others too. I have recently heard that the Parma acrylic colors are now available again.

 

I airbrushed bodies with solvent-based paints for 35 years, except for a 15 yr. window when my kids were small. In 2005 i changed to all acrylics & haven't been disappointed since. My cans & bottles of solvent -based paints were given to a friend who worked in a 1:1 body shop. 

 

 

Great advice by Bill from NH. 

 

You should think about getting away from using rattle cans. Prices on airbrushes and compressors have come way down recently and painting with an airbrush gives you way more control.

 

I also use craft store paints and have had absolutely no problems with them. I make my own reducer which is a mix of 91% IPA and distilled water with a few drops of glycerin. Createx paints are also very good but more expensive than craft store paint. 



#6 studentdriver

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Posted 19 November 2023 - 10:10 PM

Thanks for the replies all!

 

1) Yes, it was recommended to me to wash bodies before hand and I have been, I used Dawn power something-or-other and then let them dry. I don't think it's been a dirty/oil/grease problem.. seems like these paints have different issues

2) I just want the simplest solution that is safe to use and not too expensive. I don't mind having to buy some supplies or tools but "keep it simple for stupid (me)"

 

I don't think I want to get into mixing solvents or even dive into painting much at all.. I'm surprised I'm still having issues.. like I said, I thought i was good with Traxxas paints but for some reason the blue in particular is giving me issues. It pretty much weakens the lexan bodies. I have no issues with the traxxas paint sticking.. it sticks fine, but the blue in particular is weaken the lexan which is really, really odd.. no idea why...

 

I know other folks I race with have mentioned they airbrushed and their bodies do look nice.. that said I just don't know how far down the painting rabbit hole I want to go.. was hoping for an easy solution.

 

thanks,
Mike


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#7 Wizard Of Iz

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Posted 19 November 2023 - 10:17 PM

At this point I'm just looking to get basic paint to stick, stay and not cause issues with the plastic/lexan of the body.

 

1) I got tamiya from ERI and it was horrible. All the colors ended up cracking and falling off almost immediately after drying

2) I then moved to traxxas paint and that was better except for the color blue. Seems like it didn't "stay" that well after several coats (seemed washed out after 2-3 coats even).. Then I noticed it was making they body almost turn to a leather and dissolve. Other colors didn't seem to have this issue though perhaps it's because I was trying to have the blue not be nearly as transparent.

 

I'm not looking for concourse anything.. I just want to do basic painting and have it work and not have stupid/unexpected issues. With vendors not having bodies in stock I hate having mess ups and having to throw out bodies.

 

The only other thing is that sharpie markers seem to run when painted over.. Do I need to do sharpie on the outside? Seems like it'll just eventually get rubbed off?

 

 

 

thanks,
Mike

 

 

 

Mike ..... I'll add my voice to the folks recommending switching to using an airbrush.  Unless you're going into painting bodies on a commercial level, you'll be just fine with an airbrush / air compressor combo kit from Harbor Freight.  I think the combo is nearly always around $100 and is frequently(?) on sale for a little less.  I recommend choosing one of their compressors that allows you to vary the air pressure.

 

If you want a little nicer air brush, look at a Paasche VL series or one of the Iwata airbrushes.  It doesn't have to cost a fortune ... but you don't want junk either.  I'm using a 20+ year old Paasche Millennium model that still serves me well.  I think I'm on my second compressor over the past 30 years.

 

For airbrush painting ... I like the Createx line of paints.  Even their fluorescent colors stay in the body!

 

If you're determined to stay with rattle cans ... I think the Tamiya is what a lot of guys are using.  Back in the early '90s - before I had an airbrush - I used Pactra and even Krylon with good results.  But you can keep the body MUCH lighter with an airbrush.

 

As for using Sharpies .... use them on the outside.  Once they've cured for almost any length of time ... they're fairly permanent.  


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#8 mreibman

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Posted 20 November 2023 - 05:35 AM

My 2 cents:
Rattle cans from spaz stix and duratrax (RC paint for lexan) work fine. It is what it is.

When using water based paints like acrylics, biggest tip is body prep. It's not just the oil that's at issue, the lexan is too smooth for the paintsto adhere properly. I have taken to using a little fast orange hand cleaner which has a bit of grit in it, and water and giving them a quick gentle rub with water using my fingers. It makes a big difference. I recall being advised years ago to prep the bodies with steel wool, but I don't trust my memory.

Craft acrylics are ok. They are thinner and better for airbrushing.

Artist acrylics are thicker and better for brush painting. Be mindful that many of the colors are not opaque.

Also - to practice, drink some 2 liter sodas in clear bottles, then cut them open to paint on.
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#9 studentdriver

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Posted 20 November 2023 - 09:20 AM

Seems like maybe airbrush would get the best quality.. My only concern is getting in over my head. I read through a few other threads after posting and it seems like with airbrushing people were having issues with dry times and getting it to stick... The racing I do is fairly brutal so I don't want to spend a ton of time on bodies.. Just want a nice 2 coat maybe 2 color job that will hold up and not cause issues. With the Traxxas paint the blue went on fine but over time the body got thin.. I wouldn't say brittle but it just seem to almost disappear?? It was the weirdest thing and I simply don't trust Traxxas any more. I know RC car bodies typically are pretty thick..

 

the 150 investment for airbrush isn't bad (110 for the compressor and attachment at HF) and then 40 or so for primary color set. But the learning curve seems a bit high and I again (maybe 4th time mentioning) I don't know if I want to spend this much time on paint for a body that will be busted up :)

 

I'm in the northeast (PA) and I'm limited to now painting indoors as we've gone into the 40s for the most part.. so I have to stay with stuff that is easy to clean and doesn't stink up my whole house...

 

thanks,
Mike

 

 

 

 

 

Mike ..... I'll add my voice to the folks recommending switching to using an airbrush.  Unless you're going into painting bodies on a commercial level, you'll be just fine with an airbrush / air compressor combo kit from Harbor Freight.  I think the combo is nearly always around $100 and is frequently(?) on sale for a little less.  I recommend choosing one of their compressors that allows you to vary the air pressure.

 

If you want a little nicer air brush, look at a Paasche VL series or one of the Iwata airbrushes.  It doesn't have to cost a fortune ... but you don't want junk either.  I'm using a 20+ year old Paasche Millennium model that still serves me well.  I think I'm on my second compressor over the past 30 years.

 

For airbrush painting ... I like the Createx line of paints.  Even their fluorescent colors stay in the body!

 

If you're determined to stay with rattle cans ... I think the Tamiya is what a lot of guys are using.  Back in the early '90s - before I had an airbrush - I used Pactra and even Krylon with good results.  But you can keep the body MUCH lighter with an airbrush.

 

As for using Sharpies .... use them on the outside.  Once they've cured for almost any length of time ... they're fairly permanent.  


Mike Ciccarelli
 
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#10 studentdriver

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Posted 20 November 2023 - 09:26 AM

Looking at spaz stix.. they have some cool colors. Maybe I'll give them a shot before completely switching or even trying air brushing.

 

At this point I'm just concerned after my experience with Traxxas blue... I'm tossing that crap. Maybe it's fine for thicker RC bodies. Hopefully spaz stix won't have a similar issue.

 

Mike

 

 

My 2 cents:
Rattle cans from spaz stix and duratrax (RC paint for lexan) work fine. It is what it is.

When using water based paints like acrylics, biggest tip is body prep. It's not just the oil that's at issue, the lexan is too smooth for the paintsto adhere properly. I have taken to using a little fast orange hand cleaner which has a bit of grit in it, and water and giving them a quick gentle rub with water using my fingers. It makes a big difference. I recall being advised years ago to prep the bodies with steel wool, but I don't trust my memory.

Craft acrylics are ok. They are thinner and better for airbrushing.

Artist acrylics are thicker and better for brush painting. Be mindful that many of the colors are not opaque.

Also - to practice, drink some 2 liter sodas in clear bottles, then cut them open to paint on.


Mike Ciccarelli
 
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#11 studentdriver

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Posted 20 November 2023 - 10:06 AM

LOL, I didn't realize it was you at first, I saw the "Cthulhu750" and not Dave.. (see how perceptive and quick I am? guess I'm getting even older)..

 

I do wash them first.. only issue is I then get my grubby hands back on them when attempting to put the masks on which (depending on the body) is challenging for me. I can honestly say I'm pretty sure the tamiya paint was having issues because almost ALL of the paint was flaking right off... I mean I let it sit and dry and barely touched it and poof, it came right off. And at the same time I didn't have that issue at all with Traxxas paint so I don't think it was necessarily the dirt (although it probably wasn't helping). Only issue with Traxxas is the blue basically dissolved 2 of the RTR revolution bodies. I was racing this past Saturday and the insides of the "wing" part of the body was completely just gone/dissolved where it was blue. Also where it didn't disssolve was warped and disfigured. Way weird in my mind but I'm a newbie..

 

Maybe I'll buy some latex gloves when doing the masks because it's not challenging enough already for me, need to now add poorly fitting gloves, argh :)

 

As always, thanks Dave! Appreciate your insights!!

 

 

mike are you washing the bodies first with soap and water? that has always helped with my paint.


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#12 Bill Breck

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Posted 20 November 2023 - 10:12 AM

Seems like maybe airbrush would get the best quality.. My only concern is getting in over my head. I read through a few other threads after posting and it seems like with airbrushing people were having issues with dry times and getting it to stick...

 

the 150 investment for airbrush isn't bad (110 for the compressor and attachment at HF) and then 40 or so for primary color set. But the learning curve seems a bit high and I again (maybe 4th time mentioning) I don't know if I want to spend this much time on paint for a body that will be busted up :)

 

I'm in the northeast (PA) and I'm limited to now painting indoors as we've gone into the 40s for the most part.. so I have to stay with stuff that is easy to clean and doesn't stink up my whole house...

 

thanks,
Mike

 

 

 

 

Check out this guy's YouTube channel. He has tons of videos covering painting techniques, paint and product reviews, and just about anything you can think of pertaining to paint.

 

 https://www.youtube....t=dd&shelf_id=0

 

I also live in the northeast and spray my water based acrylic paints all through the Winter indoors. I keep the air pressure pretty low (20 PSI) and don't even use a spray booth. Acrylic paints don't have the stink that solvent based paints have, and since they're water based you only need to use some hot water and maybe some dish detergent to clean up.



#13 ajd350

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Posted 20 November 2023 - 10:13 AM

There are different Tamiya paints. Tamiya TS paints will NOT stick to Lexan. PS paints work nicely on Lexan (polycarbonate). Which are you using?  FYI PS paints are NOT compatible with Butyrate, causing warping.


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#14 Aeropro

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Posted 20 November 2023 - 10:22 AM

 

 

I've been told that automotive solvent-based lacquers also work well on Lexan. 

 

Quite so. My 30+ years of mass production painted bodies were done with automotive acrylic lacquers. The organic solvents in the thinner bite into the lexan, and the acrylic base keeps the paint flexible. They also dry very rapidly, which facilitates multiple color changes. Sadly, they are becoming hard to find and horrendously expensive (due to health concerns).


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#15 studentdriver

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Posted 20 November 2023 - 10:32 AM

so I went and checked and the 2 remaining colors of the tamiya that I kept are PS-6 and PS-16.. so I believe they were correct in that they are PS. I actually threw away 2 of the colors and kept 2... the 2 I got rid of were instantly flaking so again I think something was wrong with the paint? Maybe old and/old kept in the wrong conditions at ERI. Both Tamiya and Traxxas say directly on the spray cans that they are for Polycarbonate Bodies.

 

Can you clarify or maybe suggest more info regarding what you said with "PS paints are NOT compatible with Butyrate".. I'm not familiar with Butyrate at all, where is it involved in slot car racing? Is it in the bodies or in the oils or something? Google search seems to indicate that Butyrate is a gut bacteria (heh, which I don't know how it related to slot cars).

 

thanks for your reply!

 

Mike

 

 

 

 

There are different Tamiya paints. Tamiya TS paints will NOT stick to Lexan. PS paints work nicely on Lexan (polycarbonate). Which are you using?  FYI PS paints are NOT compatible with Butyrate, causing warping.


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#16 studentdriver

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Posted 20 November 2023 - 10:34 AM

Nice to meet you. I've used several of your wing car bodies over the years!!

 

Unfortunately even if I were to find some I think with my limited space and conditions of those spaces I might not want to use these.. 

 

thanks for your reply!

 

 

 

Quite so. My 30+ years of mass production painted bodies were done with automotive acrylic lacquers. The organic solvents in the thinner bite into the lexan, and the acrylic base keeps the paint flexible. They also dry very rapidly, which facilitates multiple color changes. Sadly, they are becoming hard to find and horrendously expensive (due to health concerns).


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#17 studentdriver

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Posted 20 November 2023 - 10:42 AM

I mean I'm thinking of maybe testing the air brushing waters a bit? I would just hate to get frustrated by a rabbit hole of the painting world ;) Seems like you are already comfortable with it but for me it might be a fairly step learning curve. The best homer simpson quote I can think of "trying is the first step to failure"... heh.. I don't honestly think that way and heck maybe I'd even enjoy it but I just have my concerns going that route. I don't have too many local folks to give pointers. Yes I can definitely watch youtube but sometimes have that in person experience is helpful.

 

 

 

 

Check out this guy's YouTube channel. He has tons of videos covering painting techniques, paint and product reviews, and just about anything you can think of pertaining to paint.

 

 https://www.youtube....t=dd&shelf_id=0

 

I also live in the northeast and spray my water based acrylic paints all through the Winter indoors. I keep the air pressure pretty low (20 PSI) and don't even use a spray booth. Acrylic paints don't have the stink that solvent based paints have, and since they're water based you only need to use some hot water and maybe some dish detergent to clean up.


Mike Ciccarelli
 
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- Like going fast!

#18 Hot Slots

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Posted 20 November 2023 - 10:55 AM

Not all Tamiya paint works with polycarbonate, the can will say if it works on it. I bought some that didnt stick to polycarbonate awhile back by mistake and learned my lesson. I've never scuffed up or washed a body, maybe ive blown some dust out of them. Someone may have already pointed this out, i didnt want to read all the posts about washing the bodies first.

My bodies arent the prettiest either but the paint doesnt chip off. I'll never win a concourse award.
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#19 Eddie Fleming

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Posted 20 November 2023 - 11:14 AM

Air brushes are great if you get the paint thinned properly. The problem with the air brush is you must clean it up after use. It is much easier with a can but more versatile with the AB.

 

So you picks your way to go.


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#20 Wizard Of Iz

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Posted 20 November 2023 - 12:19 PM

Seems like maybe airbrush would get the best quality.. My only concern is getting in over my head. I read through a few other threads after posting and it seems like with airbrushing people were having issues with dry times and getting it to stick... The racing I do is fairly brutal so I don't want to spend a ton of time on bodies.. Just want a nice 2 coat maybe 2 color job that will hold up and not cause issues. With the Traxxas paint the blue went on fine but over time the body got thin.. I wouldn't say brittle but it just seem to almost disappear?? It was the weirdest thing and I simply don't trust Traxxas any more. I know RC car bodies typically are pretty thick..

 

the 150 investment for airbrush isn't bad (110 for the compressor and attachment at HF) and then 40 or so for primary color set. But the learning curve seems a bit high and I again (maybe 4th time mentioning) I don't know if I want to spend this much time on paint for a body that will be busted up :)

 

I'm in the northeast (PA) and I'm limited to now painting indoors as we've gone into the 40s for the most part.. so I have to stay with stuff that is easy to clean and doesn't stink up my whole house...

 

thanks,
Mike

 

 

 

 

 

Mike ... I'm in Florida so my issue is that I don't want to paint in the garage when it's 90+ degrees.  So, I paint in the house.  The Createx paints that I use are virtually odor free.  

 

I keep my painting "stuff" in an old copy paper box.  Then I use a yard-size garbage bag as a drop cloth taped across my slot car box. And I use the lid of the copy paper box as a paint booth.  (It's now quite the technicolor wonder.)  

 

Doing it this way, I've managed to keep overspray off of my slot car box and my work area.  When I'm done, I fold up the garbage bag and save it for the next painting session.

 

If you order Createx paints, make sure you also order some of their #4011 Reducer (Thinner) and some of their Airbrush Cleaner.    As @Eddie Fleming said, thinning the paint is the key.  I try to get the paint to about the consistency of Skim Milk.  Then I turn the pressure down to about 20psi and apply the paint in VERY thin coats.  The first coat is barely more than a misting to fog the body.  Then I use a hair dryer on the "air" or "low" setting just long enough for the sheen of the paint to disappear.  Then I repeat the process applying more coats until I get the coverage I need.  

 

Resist the temptation to just blast the paint on the body like you would with a rattle can.  Too much paint applied too quickly will result in runs.

 

You'll get the hang of it pretty quickly.  The advice that someone gave to practice on old 2-litre soda bottles is excellent.  It's exactly what I did when I first started.  

 

Reach out if you have questions or get stumped.

 

 

 

Air brushes are great if you get the paint thinned properly. The problem with the air brush is you must clean it up after use. It is much easier with a can but more versatile with the AB.

 

So you picks your way to go.

 

 

YES!!!   You nailed it! 


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#21 Brian Czeiner

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Posted 20 November 2023 - 01:08 PM

One thing nobody has mentioned here ( or maybe I missed it) is washing your hands. Often times we forget about fingerprint oil while handling the body. You can't assume washing the body includes washing your hands because they got wet during the process. I am always surprised when I forget and then see how many areas my prints show up from masking after the first dusting coat. All it takes is a starting point and then the rest deteriorates from there.

 

Another method I didn't see suggested was using a Scotchbrite pad to scuff the body. Just stay clear of the windows. 


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#22 studentdriver

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Posted 20 November 2023 - 02:09 PM

I've definitely heard of caveman bodies and thanks for replying to the thread!

 

I would probably be considered a monster to painters.. it's not my main focus on the hobby. That said I can appreciate great paint jobs and love seeing them at races. My main focus is just to have consistent paint that doesn't damage the lexan.. which so far has been a surprisingly difficult task. That said I'm definitely still learning and if I go the airbrush route perhaps I can get better as a painter as well.

 

I was wondering what do you use to paint your bodies that you sell? I'm used to buying pre-painted bodies but it's been recommended to start painting and cutting my own bodies for the series I race in occasionally.

 

 

 

One thing nobody has mentioned here ( or maybe I missed it) is washing your hands. Often times we forget about fingerprint oil while handling the body. You can't assume washing the body includes washing your hands because they got wet during the process. I am always surprised when I forget and then see how many areas my prints show up from masking after the first dusting coat. All it takes is a starting point and then the rest deteriorates from there.

 

Another method I didn't see suggested was using a Scotchbrite pad to scuff the body. Just stay clear of the windows. 


Mike Ciccarelli
 
- I don't typically race in series
- Enjoy tinkering 
- Like going fast!

#23 studentdriver

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Posted 20 November 2023 - 03:49 PM

Quick question regarding Createx. I race occasionally in a series where the racing gets pretty tough (high speed).. a simple deslot can turn a crappy, non-stick paint into a wonderous confetti mess.. Does the Createx (since it's acrylic based) stick well? Does it have any solvents in it to make it bind to the lexan well?

 

Again, I'm definitely trying to go with function over form.. if it looks good great but I want it to stick AND work well (ie: not cause issues with lexan).

 

thanks!
Mike

 

 

 

 

 

Mike ... I'm in Florida so my issue is that I don't want to paint in the garage when it's 90+ degrees.  So, I paint in the house.  The Createx paints that I use are virtually odor free.  

 

I keep my painting "stuff" in an old copy paper box.  Then I use a yard-size garbage bag as a drop cloth taped across my slot car box. And I use the lid of the copy paper box as a paint booth.  (It's now quite the technicolor wonder.)  

 

Doing it this way, I've managed to keep overspray off of my slot car box and my work area.  When I'm done, I fold up the garbage bag and save it for the next painting session.

 

If you order Createx paints, make sure you also order some of their #4011 Reducer (Thinner) and some of their Airbrush Cleaner.    As @Eddie Fleming said, thinning the paint is the key.  I try to get the paint to about the consistency of Skim Milk.  Then I turn the pressure down to about 20psi and apply the paint in VERY thin coats.  The first coat is barely more than a misting to fog the body.  Then I use a hair dryer on the "air" or "low" setting just long enough for the sheen of the paint to disappear.  Then I repeat the process applying more coats until I get the coverage I need.  

 

Resist the temptation to just blast the paint on the body like you would with a rattle can.  Too much paint applied too quickly will result in runs.

 

You'll get the hang of it pretty quickly.  The advice that someone gave to practice on old 2-litre soda bottles is excellent.  It's exactly what I did when I first started.  

 

Reach out if you have questions or get stumped.

 

 

 

 

 

YES!!!   You nailed it! 


Mike Ciccarelli
 
- I don't typically race in series
- Enjoy tinkering 
- Like going fast!

#24 Bill from NH

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Posted 20 November 2023 - 04:11 PM

Mike, if you go the airbrush route, there are some sold with a rechargeable battery operated compressor. Recharging is done with a USB cord. I do not have one, but there are a number of good reviews on YouTube.If you have any interest, search on "cordless airbrushes." YouTube has many other videos on painting topics, including a few on spray cans. One topic that may interest you are videos on using Tamiya spray cans.

 

The Parma Faskolor body paints are made by Createx in CT. I've used both lines of acrylic paints without a problem as have many other slot car & RC racers.


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#25 studentdriver

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Posted 20 November 2023 - 05:36 PM

Thanks for the reply... Thanks for mentioning that many folks use the Createx and it sticks well. I'm a complete newb with painting and then add on the whole lexan/polycarbonate aspect and I know even less.. so this is all a new world for me.

 

I guess I wanted to understand how it works so I gave Createx a call and spoke with 1 of their technical experts. He explained that technically their paint does make use of solvents but not the traditional ones. I guess they could be considered safer in many ways then the old school solvents. I guess this is why the smell isn't as bad. That said even if I wanted a "half-baked" paint job (even with rattle can) I need to do very light coats multiple times (this might be a no-duh moment for some folks, I get that). The light coats allow the solvents that make the paint stick to evaporate and not get locked in and eat the lexan/polycarbonate. I still have a little concern since our series people typically run .007 thick bodies that using traxxas paint might have a chance to loosen up the body too much? That said I don't know if different colors make use of a different amount of solvent? Not sure, forgot to ask.

 

things I learned so far

1) when using anything translucent (typically Transparent or Fluorescent colors) if you want them to be more Opaque then either apply more LIGHT coats or apply a backing coat of a non-translucent or Opaque color.. (yes, I see some people rolling their eyes but this is new to me).

2) solvents in paint can do many things... including destroy what you are working on if used improperly. For example applying paint to something that paint shouldn't technically be used on. ie: by the right paint for the right job (sounds simple but you might be missing something even!)

3) typically the solvents will evaporate or become inactive so applying multiple lighter coats will not necessarily make whatever you are applying the paint to weaker if done correctly. ie: there is no such thing as a half-baked paint job as it'll end up actually causing problems with lexan... argh..

 

the only thing I'll mention is that when I spoke to Createx they also maybe suggested adding in UVLS-4050 to make it just a bit stronger but it's not necessary. You can do 9 - paint, 1 reducer (as suggested by folks in this thread) but then also add another 1 of the clear coat to make it a bit stronger.

 

Also I'll mention that it seems like not all acrylic paints are the same... different solvent options. So maybe Createx works great but other acrylics not so much.

 

You might have known a lot of this Bill but figured I'd just mention it in this reply.. and thanks again!

 

 

Mike, if you go the airbrush route, there are some sold with a rechargeable battery operated compressor. Recharging is done with a USB cord. I do not have one, but there are a number of good reviews on YouTube.If you have any interest, search on "cordless airbrushes." YouTube has many other videos on painting topics, including a few on spray cans. One topic that may interest you are videos on using Tamiya spray cans.

 

The Parma Faskolor body paints are made by Createx in CT. I've used both lines of acrylic paints without a problem as have many other slot car & RC racers.


Mike Ciccarelli
 
- I don't typically race in series
- Enjoy tinkering 
- Like going fast!





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