13 replies to this topic

[NJ Racer]

I just opened the blister pac.

[NJ Racer]

Look more closely at my photo.

[Eddie Fleming]

The red dot is on the wrong side I think. 

[Jay Guard]

The endbell tabs don't look very well crimped to me.

[MG Brown]

Some out there would say just the fact that it is a JK Hawk 7 is "wrong" enough.

[NJ Racer]

Eddie Fleming... correct!

[Eddie Fleming]

So what do I win???

[Rob Voska]

Does it run the correct rotation when hooked up to the red dot?  

[NJ Racer]

Secondly after an initial  connection to the power supply when cycling up to 7V it convincingly hit the "Wall". Not neccesary for me, or anyone else to go down that road again. I did purchase two Hawk 7's and the other one is configured correctly, and operational on the power supply. I purchased the 2 motors to run in a race at a distant new raceway "Race Ya" where the motor is a requrement. I never previously owned or raced a Hawk 7. 

 

Eddie I haven't considered a prize yet    

[NJ Racer]

Rob 

 

It does run as it should clockwise when I connected the red lead of the power supply to the red dot clip

[Rob Voska]

Maybe it was assembled properly but laser etched wrong.  Flip it over & run it.  Eddie don't get a prize I do.

[Bill Seitz]

The magnets have been installed reverse of normal for the crimped motors. For some reason, the "FK" motors with removable endbells use this magnet orientation, reverse of normal for a C or D can and the crimped endbell motors.

 

In the motors I've examined that hit a "wall", they do so because they begin arcing badly. I've had this occur with other brand motors, including most recently 2 ProSlot FK drag racing motors. Usually a thorough cleaning resolves the problem, or replacing brushes in endbell motors, and a good break-in that fully seats the brushes to the comm contour always helps. I always perform dry break-in without any chemicals that might contaminate brushes. I have enough problems with oil-fouling brushes. Brushless motors do offer relief from the sundry problems that can occur with brushes.

 

I've only purchased a couple new Hawk 7's, since this isn't the type motor I typically use. Although they performed satisfactorily, I much prefer motors with removable endbells. I have acquired a small number of Hawk 7's from racers who claimed they were bad, and most of these exhibited awful arcing which was corrected by a solvent soak. They now run fine and I have what will likely be a several year supply at the rate I use them.

[Rob Voska]

What / how do you clean them?  

[Danny Zona]

I'm experiencing 2-speed shifter motor flashbacks seeing this post.

I'll probably have a nightmare tonight.

😉