22 replies to this topic

[Eddie Fleming]

Simple question, but I suspect the answer will not be simple.

 

If you were buying a new airbrush what would it be and where would you order it from?

[Racer36]

Badger Patriot has served me very well when using acrylics. I would replace it with the same or maybe an Iwata Eclipse.

[Aeropro]

Depends on what kind of work you're planning to do. Broad stripes or intricate detail? For my mass production work, I used a basic two airbrush team of a Binks medium for fast wide-area coverage, and a Badger dual action for shading and detail. For more precise fine-line or artsy work, probably an Iwata. 

[Bill Breck]

I currently use an Iwata Eclipse, so I'd go with that. I bought mine at Hobby Lobby - they had the best price.

 

Others I would consider would be: Badger Patriot, GSI Creos (many different models to choose from), or Harder & Steenbeck Ultra. 

 

I highly recommend checking out spraygunner.com. Great selection of airbrushes, compressors, paints, and accessories. 

[MSwiss]

Sounds like the Iwata is a winner.

 

When I did a reasonable amount of airbrush work over the years, the Paasche H was a little more friendly to me than the internal mix brushes.

[Mark Onofri]

I just bought a Paasche raptor W/ three (3) needles and nozzles. Do you need anything like this? Probably not. A $20 Paasche from lobby hobbies is great for acrylics. Don't use it for lacquer, you'll melt the little"O"ring. For lacquer, again, Paasche has a retro that is good for both.
Drawbacks:
The raptor isn't cheap
Both patches are a (explicative) to clean.
Good things:
The raptor is soooooo easy to clean and, I'll probably never figure out how to use most of it to it's fullest advantage.
The $20 Paasche is, well, it's $20 US bucks!!!!
The retro is a little more but, it's really all most people need.
I used a badger from 85 till 03. Good all around gun but,a (explicative) to clean. With two(2) snozeles and cones ,... do they even make em any more?
Anyway, another thing, I thought that gravity feed would be the greatest thing since spandex,
(depending on the size) the only difference I've found is, gravity has a cap on the reservoir. It didn't stop me from spilling the paint, well, not as much.
I can see how it can be confusing, there must be a trizillion different, wait they just added a bizillion more, companies and as many options. If your wondering why Paasche? Simple,it was the best of the best that autoworld had in the 1975 catalog.duh.

[Mark Onofri]

All depends on what you want to do

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[Bill from NH]

Paasche & Badger brushes are made in the US & both are still available. Both companies also sell compressors.

Parts availability for both brands is relatively easy to find.

 

Did you try replacing the O-ring in the $20 Paasche with a teflon one? How hot a lacquer thinner were you using?

 

Gravity feed brushes require less air pressures to operate compared to a siphon feed brush. Use siphon feed when needing a large volume of paint.

 

At some point your Paasche Raptor is going to need a deep cleaning in order to continue operating properly.

 

What is a Paasche retro? Never heard of that model. Did you Raptor come with just one size needle & valve, or did it come with multiples? What size do you use?

[Mark Onofri]

A explanation of the picture is probably in order.
Top left: $20 Paasche left: Paasche retro
Centre: badger (1986)
Right:$20 Paasche.
The lower one doesn't count.
The biggest difference between them is

[Bill from NH]

What picture?  Did you get interrupted & forget to finish post #9?

[Eddie Fleming]

What picture?  Did you get interrupted & forget to finish post #9?

I think the picture is post #7

[Mark Onofri]

Billnh, I think I covered all of your questions except for the "O"ring. I just exchanged it and I don't use it for lacquer anymore. I'll post a picture of the retro.
There is one other that I tried. A Harbor Freight pos. If your doing 1/1 cars,👍. Although, I'm considering trying it again for speed boat metal flake. The Indy car
(top left) pushed the limit of the $20 Paasche to the max.

[Bill from NH]

I don't relate bodies to airbrushes. Forget the questions.

[Brian Czeiner]

gravity fed is a must. I have used cheap harbor freight up to Paasche and Iwata. Even some in between brands. One with variable needle sizes to optimize your brush's abilities from intricate to flakes. The fact is, each brush has different characteristics that will need to be learned and overcome by the artist. So it's really up to you.

My current brush is an Iwata knock off called a Masters with three needle sizes 0.2, 0.3 & 0.5

 

Both of these were done with the Masters airbrush

 

https://www.amazon.c...193&sr=8-7&th=1

 

 

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[Mark Onofri]

👍 nice!
Is it just me or, do all dual action brushes have a delay/lag? Even if you press for the air before pulling the trigger back? Or, do I have it bas ackwards? Never had it happen with a single action.
Might be something for you to consider before your purchase.

[Brian Czeiner]

nice!
Is it just me or, do all dual action brushes have a delay/lag? Even if you press for the air before pulling the trigger back? Or, do I have it bas ackwards? Never had it happen with a single action.
Might be something for you to consider before your purchase.

The purpose of a dual airbrush is the ability to individually control the flow rate of the paint and air, creating pencil thin lines with practice. Since you hit the air and then release paint, a delay is to be expected. If your brush is siphon fed, then the air must also pull the paint up the tube creating a longer lag. Gravity fed is much quicker and requires less air pressure (which can use thinner paint) giving unlimited control for free hand artistry.

 

Single action brushes are a advanced rattle can. Which works well for most people. Unfortunately, many out grow the single action as they pursue the airbrush craft.

 

When learning, you can use a double action as a single action. Just push all the way down on the air and then release your paint. You will gain air control as your skills advance and only ever need to purchase one brush.

[Mark Onofri]

Thanks, never thought about that. Fortunately, the nozzle is unable to allow the needle to become a blow dart, isn't it? 😲 Your advice explains why I have inconsistency in the amount of paint* used each time .
I'm still a big fan of using cans. Especially, when my friend Kathy shakes them for me. It gives painting a whole new dimension.
I still think that if your just entering this phase of the hobby/sport,a $20 basic model is the way to go. If you decide it "sucks or, you suck at it, your only out $20. The same applies If your going for the least amount of weight and still maintaining opacity. Money better spent on parts that will reduce the weight by several grains. Yes, grains.
It parralels to giving a novice a $3,800.50 controller designed by a ex Soviet block physicist , or a $15.99(used)3ohm Parma designed in the 69'by a janitor at NASA.
* All things being equal(viscosity & pressure) and, just with this new gun.

[Mark Onofri]

Here's my next victim. For most of the stuff I do, the tape makes up for the inaccuracies of the airbrush and mostly the painter.

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[Mark Onofri]

I was lucky enough to purchase this from nick65. The master painters name is on the sticker. Definitely 70's

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[Eddie Fleming]

Sounds like the Iwata is a winner.

 

When I did a reasonable amount of airbrush work over the years, the Paasche H was a little more friendly to me than the internal mix brushes.

I took Mike's hint and bought a Paasche H. What I was looking for was a refined spray can that I could change colors with.  So far the H works great, sprays thinned craft paints and cleans up fast and easy. It lays down a nice coat of paint too. 

 

I am happy with it. 

[Mark Onofri]

It took me a while to figure out how to get the effects from the various nozzles and rods. I'm amazed at how much you can reduce the paint. That's the trick! With the Raptor, I almost don't have to use masking,almost.
I'm still not completely sold on the gravity feed but,at least it has a cap for the cup. I've still found a way to spill it.😳

[Wizard Of Iz]

I took Mike's hint and bought a Paasche H. What I was looking for was a refined spray can that I could change colors with.  So far the H works great, sprays thinned craft paints and cleans up fast and easy. It lays down a nice coat of paint too. 

 

I am happy with it. 

 

Good call.  I'm still happy with my 24 year old Paasche Millennium.  It's kind a slightly smaller/thinner version of their VL line.  Very easy to change colors using the metal side-siphon cup.  Very easy to clean.  Plus .... I really like that it's made in the USA.

 

Intellectually .... I know that Gravity Feed airbrushes will allow you to paint at a lower air pressure and do finer lines.

 

However .... I'm so comfortable with my Siphon Feed airbrush that I'll buy another one when the time comes.

 

My friend, Eddie Stilley, does great paint work.  He just got a Paasche Talon TS-3 Siphon Feed, Dual Action airbrush.  He got it as part of a "package" that came with 3 needles, 3 tips, and 3 heads.  Plus a 6ft braided hose and a sweet wood storage box.  I think it was about $135 on Amazon.  If I was in the market for a new airbrush  ... I'd give the Talon a hard look..

[Mark Onofri]

Sounds like the same package as the raptor that I purchased. The only bitch I have is the coding that they use couldn't be any more vague. Even on their website,it leaves a lot to be desired.
Mr. Wizard, I'm with you, the biggest determining factor for the Passhae was
"Made in the USA".
The second reason is it was the top'o'the line in the 1975 Auto World catalog. How could it not be the best?