16 replies to this topic

[dalek]

Has anyone tried the KC Racing Voltan FC1 Stamped Stainless Steel 4” Flexi brushless sidewinder chassis and would share their opinion of it?

 

Handle well, bend easily, etc.?

 

It's also offered in a couple of configurations as a roller which might make a good box-stock class.

[blue&orange]

Did my normal flattening and straightening and set up for a new chassis.  Ran like a t**d.  Took it all apart and spent close to an hour to get the pans flat and straight again. -- it's very bendy.. Runs way better, but haven't really thrashed with it yet to see if it holds or bends/warps.  It also takes serious grinding on the too-small oilite holes.

[Ken Lenz]

Chris
The Oillite holes are undersized by design to provide a pilot to align the axle accurately in the chassis.  It takes more time to load the reamer into the Dremel than to size and align the holes.  Likely you didn’t read the chassis instruction sheet located on the website.  hmm, Blue & Orange says it all.  https://kcracing.net...ing - Rev A.pdf

[Tim Neja]

I" have a couple of these and after straightening they handled great!! BUT---the material is NOT as strong as the JK chassis---easily bendy--so I've gone to using the center section only and the JK Aolis chassis side pans fit fine.  It really helps because the KC material is just too soft and bendy.

FWIW

[dalek]

Thanks guys for the replies.

[blue&orange]

PM sent to Ken.  Proudly Gulf Blue & Orange!

[Bucky]

Are these sold through a distributor and tracks, or are they online only?

[bbr]

don't think you can hardened 304 by heat treating, but peening may work

[dalek]

Are these sold through a distributor and tracks, or are they online only?

 

The Voltan is not listed on the ERI or Eagle websites.

 

The KCRacing website has a link for track owners to click on.  If you click on the link it says:  

"If you are a stocking track owner we have a competitive program for you to offer KC Racing products.  Please complete the form on this page and we will get in touch with you."

[Dave Crevie]

304 grade Stainless can not be hardened by heat treating. It can be cryogenetically hardened in nitrogen gas, but that is an expensive process, not something for slot car chassis. The higher number of 300 class stainless, such as 310 to 312, is naturally hard enough for a flexi chassis and still be flexible. For heat treatment, you need to go into the 400 class stainless, which is used for knife blades and such.

 

I have a question. Why do the bushing holes have to be align reamed? 

[Tim Neja]

I bought my chassis directly from the KC website.  Simply ordered motors, ESC's and motor adapters for older flexi chassis as well as the KC brushless chassis.  Their very easy to deal with -- good service and response to any questions.

[LiqTenExp]

I've had mine for a while and feel it handles really well, on par with any JK or Mossetti chassis I run. The material is too soft, similar to the newer Mid-America chassis, bends too easily.

[dalek]

Reamed the holes

The pictured reamer worked fine for opening up the bushing holes. 

I didn't have to remove much metal for the Slick 7 bushings to go in.

 

 

Uprights aren't vertical

 

As you can see by the axle misalignment, the uprights are leaning outwards

 

 

 

 

The motor mount is not vertical either

 

 

On https://kcracing.net/About-us/ it says, in part:  

"We are committed to designing and manufacturing slot car chassis and accessories that exceed the expectations of our customers..."

 

 

I personally feel that causing their customers to have to finish the chassis forming process is falling short of "exceed the expectations".

 

I would even prefer paying a few dollars more for the chassis if the forming was complete.

[team burrito]

I personally feel that causing their customers to have to finish the chassis forming process is falling short of "exceed the expectations". I would even prefer paying a few dollars more for the chassis if the forming was complete.

sorry, but all flexi chassis have to be flatten & tweaked to some degree.

[Dave Crevie]

sorry, but all flexi chassis have to be flatten & tweaked to some degree.

 

True. There is always some spring-back in the forming process. But the tool can be designed to correct this. It is not easy to bend the uprights to perfect 90^o  by hand. If you have to open the bushing holes, might as well punch them a little oversize to begin with.

 

The motor bracket is even tougher yet. You need a tiny machinists square to check it. Like the ones from SPI. The smallest one is 1 inch long along the longest leg, just right for checking the bracket.

 

 

Attached Images

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[Bill from NH]

I got a small machinist square somewhere for less than $10. Perhaps not the diemaker's accuracy of the SPIs, but it has worked well when I ran a flexi from '96-2010. It probably came from Micromark  or Campbell Tools when they were in KY.

[dalek]

----- STRAIGHTENING THE RH UPRIGHT -----

 

 

          SHOWS LEANING OUTWARD

 

 

 

 

 

 

          NOW STRAIGHT

 

 

 

 

----- STRAIGHTENING THE LH UPRIGHT -----

 

 

          NO ROOM FOR A CLAMP SO SCREWED THE CHASSIS TO THE BOARD

 

 

 

----- STRAIGHTENING THE MOTOR MOUNT -----

 

 

 

          SHOWS LEANING TO THE RIGHT

 

 

          NOW STRAIGHT

 

 

 

 

----- CHASSIS PICS -----

 

 

 

 

 

 

----- THOUGHTS AND COMMENTS -----

 

The RH axle bushing was 4 to 5 thou higher than the LH so I ground the bottom of the RH bushing hole in order to lower the RH bushing to be the same height as the LH.

 

The spur gear in the pix is .608 in diameter and is flush with the bottom of the chassis.

 

There is .047 clearance under the rear of the chassis when .700 tires are installed.

 

The guide tongue is not coined as deeply as JK chassis.  With only one .005 guide washer, the chassis is higher off the track than most guys will want.

 

That being said, the chassis did handle great when tested with a Viking GTP body, .695 JK wonder tires, 11/37 gearing and 4500Kv motor.

 

I agree with what has been said by others in that the chassis is soft.

 

------------------------------------------------------

 

The small size of brushless motors makes it possible to have a sidewinder chassis with centered motor and inboard spur gear.  These are the things that attract me to the Voltan.

 

I hope someone comes out with the features of the Voltan but with chassis hardness at least equal to JK, and with the guide tongue as deep as JK's.

 

And I hope it wouldn't be too much to expect the motor mount and axle uprights to be 90 degrees to the chassis bottom.  Every customer shouldn't have to do this since, I believe, a manufacturer could make a jig to do the bending quickly, adding very little to the cost of the chassis.

 

And while they're at it, stamp the guide tongue with a 2 degree angle.  I'm thinking 2 degrees is going to be okay with most racers.  Anyone else can bend it up or down a tick if 2 degrees isn't quite where they want it.

 

I don't know what the angle is, but I bend the guide tongue to be level with the tech block when there is .062 under the rear of the chassis and the front of the chassis is on the tech block.  That angle might work for most racers.

 

Just my .02