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Soldering pin tube to chassis?


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#1 Dave_12

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Posted 29 June 2024 - 07:39 AM

Any suggestions on best way to hold pin tube while it is being soldered to chassis?
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#2 DOCinCanton

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Posted 29 June 2024 - 07:50 AM

Toothpick. Or run a piece of 1/32nd wire thru it. Maybe even catch the pin tube on the other side of the chassis, that way they are lined up.


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#3 Wizard Of Iz

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Posted 29 June 2024 - 07:55 AM

 Flexi-style chassis or Retro-style chassis?

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#4 Shruska55

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Posted 29 June 2024 - 12:03 PM

I use a 2" long pin from the outside and solder from the inside when I've settled on placement to replace an existing pin tube that was knocked out during track time.

 

On new builds, I use a 6" piece of 1/32 wire through both tubes. This not only aligns the tubes across the chassis, but also lets me adjust the tubes to place and supports the tubes leaving both my hands free to control solder, flux and iron.

 

Scott


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#5 John Luongo

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Posted 29 June 2024 - 12:53 PM

on a lightweight grp10 chassis, where rules allow, i would often free-float my pin tubes to permit a bit more bite. if i found myself soldering near the pin ends of the tubing, i would place a dab of grease near the pin holes to try and avoid filling them with solder. best regards


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#6 Jay Guard

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Posted 29 June 2024 - 03:09 PM

Use a piece of 1/32 aluminum wire through both pin tubes.  It will keep them aligned with each other and solder won't stick to aluminum (under normal conditions).


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#7 Bill Seitz

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Posted 29 June 2024 - 08:24 PM

I've noticed the above recommendations tell how to align the pin tube but not actually secure the pin tube for soldering. Some sort of clamp is needed for that. I used to use an alligator clip, but they tend to get soldered with the pin tube joint and a copper clip creates more heat drain on the joint. I now use a pair of stainless steel reverse tweezers/forceps (normally closed). They can still get soldered to the joint, though not usually as bad, they draw less heat out of the joint, and they keep the pin tube or other bit being soldered in place hands-free, so both hands can be used for applying the iron and solder.


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#8 NSwanberg

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Posted 29 June 2024 - 09:00 PM

Cut a small notch  in the end of an old Xacto .blade to hold  the pin tube down while soldering it in place.


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#9 Mike Patterson

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Posted 30 June 2024 - 09:47 AM

I'll state the obvious: fingers.


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#10 jimht

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Posted 30 June 2024 - 10:05 AM

This sort of thing...

http://slotblog.net/...s-jig-tutorial/

 

post-60-0-22453500-1312927090.jpgpost-60-0-39908900-1388790021.jpg


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#11 team burrito

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Posted 30 June 2024 - 09:20 PM

you guys are really overthinking this process.


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#12 Dave_12

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Posted 01 July 2024 - 08:27 PM

Alligator clip sounds like a good idea maybe 2 alligator clips to hold   pin tube  steady


David Rees

#13 Bill from NH

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Posted 01 July 2024 - 09:52 PM

If you have pan-hinge wires, just lay your pin tubes in next to them & solder.


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#14 Bill Seitz

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Posted 02 July 2024 - 08:36 PM

I've considered a chassis jig setup like Jim Honeycutt shows. Unfortunately, that will only work with a specific chassis design and wire/tube size. I tend to build chassis that have some unconventional aspect about them, body mounts at angles, and a variety of wire sizes. Fixed jigging often won't work. Now if I could build a specific jig for every chassis I build -- but that's not happening.

 

Some of the ideas given here are great if you have enough hands. Unfortunately, I regularly run out, although I suppose I could use transfer soldering more than I do and wouldn't need to hold and feed solder. I'm always looking for some way to hold parts in place that doesn't take another hand. This tends to be improvising with whatever happens to be on hand. One of my trips to Ace Hardware exposed me to small clamps, and I decided to try a few. While I have to be careful with heat exposure - they're plastic so can melt - they have been useful. I think the most important concept here is to think outside the box for ideas to solve a particular problem.



#15 Bill from NH

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Posted 02 July 2024 - 09:36 PM

Jim's jig shown in the photo is a R-Geo. It's been available. for a long time & is quite versatile in that you can build both 1/24 & 1/32 chassis on it & vary your wheelbases by 1/32" if you want something that small. I have some old X-acto metal clamps I can use, but I usually use masking tape & a bamboo chop stick. I've made my own jigs from a jointed length of oak. When it gets too burnt, I pull the pins & use the jointer to put a new flat surface on it. I have some maple & ironwood to use in the future, Corian & phenolic scraps too.

 

Some hardbody groups mount their bodies with clear packing tape. So that's another option for anyone having problems with soldering pin tubes.


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