What is the best way to thin Faskolor acrylic paint?
Posted 03 July 2024 - 09:41 AM
I don't thin it, and that works for me. YMMV.
I am not a doctor, but I played one as a child with the girl next door.
Posted 03 July 2024 - 09:45 AM
I'm assuming that Faskolor is a water-based acrylic paint. These would be my recommendations to try.
1. Createx 4011 reducer. You can get this at Hobby Lobby, Amazon, or other online stores (www.spraygunner.com) is a great source for all things paint related).
2. Make up your own reducer/thinner from a mixture of distilled water and 91% isopropyl alcohol. Lots of recipes for how to make this on the internet.
3. I've used windshield washer fluid on several different brands of craft store acrylic paint like Folk Art, Craftsmart, etc., with good success.
4. You can always use plain water as a thinner.
Give these a try with a small amount of paint on a test body and see which works best for you. Or, as Mike said, use it without thinning. You'll need to use a larger needle in your airbrush and higher pressure than if you thin it.
Posted 03 July 2024 - 10:10 AM
I seldom thin mine out, but a bit of Windex will work if you need to.
Posted 03 July 2024 - 08:12 PM
I'm just learning how to use this water base paint .Rc madness in Enfield CT had a seminary 'with a painter who just paints RC bodies for a living.
He uses FasKolor paint @ Creeatex paint a thin it with the Createx 4011 thinner.
It been a learning curve for me after using the lacquer base paint for decades.
I was happier on how it sprayed with the 4011 or 4012 thinner
Posted 03 July 2024 - 08:17 PM
PS FasKolor do have a thinner. It seems some colors work ok without it and some seem better with it . It all seems to be a learning curve to me'. I just really like how it sprayed with the Createx 4011
Posted 03 July 2024 - 08:39 PM
I saw a YouTube video today on a new Createx 4021 reducer. Of course they were pushing it as their best ever. The major advantage they mentioned was that, unlike their other reducers, it could be mixed with paint & sit around for several weeks or months without drying out.
David, lots of choices given above & they all work. A couple tips I'll add is if you use water, use distilled water, & when you use alcohol, the paint will dry quicker, both in & out of an airbrush. Acrylic paints vary in viscosity from bottle to bottle, so some bottles may need more reducer. other bottles may need less. I found the bottles of solid red & black Faskolor required more thinning than the others. You can get many of the Faskolor colors under the Createx label. Faskolor was manufactured by them. Most Faskolor paints are a bit thicker & more expensive than the same color with the Createx label.
Posted 03 July 2024 - 10:06 PM
Your best bet is to always try and use the thinner made by the same company as your paint. In this case, that would be Fasthinner.
FASTHINNER (Reducer) (slotcarstore.net)
You can try different things to thin it but if you enjoy using the right product, Fasthinner is your safest bet.
Paul Wolcott
Posted 04 July 2024 - 07:35 AM
I use Createx 5618 airbrush cleaner to thin most any kind of acrylic paint. It works and I don't need to keep paint thinner and brush cleaner around.
Posted 04 July 2024 - 07:40 AM
I'll add my voice to the ones recommending that you use Createx 4011 reducer. I've tried everything from Windex to 409 with various results. And I've had the best results with 4011 and have used it almost exclusively for the last 12-15 years.
I've used 4011 with Createx and Faskolor paints with good results. And I've used Fasthinner with Createx and Faskolor paints with good results. If Createx and Faskolor aren't the same product... there's not enough difference to matter.
Yes, you can use most (all??) Createx and Faskolor paints straight out of the bottle if you turn the pressure up on your compressor – in the range of 40+psi. By thinning the paint (to about the consistency of skim milk), you can turn the pressure way down – in the 8 to 10 psi range – and have much more control over where you put the paint.
Rollin Isbell
Posted 04 July 2024 - 09:41 AM
Yes, you can use most (all??) Createx and Faskolor paints straight out of the bottle if you turn the pressure up on your compressor – in the range of 40+psi.
True. I spray at 50 psi, and avoid multi-color (four or more) paint schemes. Three colors is my max.
I am not a doctor, but I played one as a child with the girl next door.
Posted 04 July 2024 - 02:33 PM
Mike, what are you using for an airbrush? Single action or double action? Any ideal what size its needle is?
A few years ago, I mixed some purple miniature metalflake in clear Createx just to try it out. None of my Aztek needles were large enough to spray the stuff. Only my then 30-year-old single action Binks with their medium tip sprayed it. The pressure I used was high, but it didn't flow on very smooth. I've tried un-thinned Faskolor on bodies too and didn't like how it went on at 40 PSI. I assume full spray cans must be in the 40-50 PSI range, too.
Mike, are you still racing?
Posted 05 July 2024 - 09:49 AM
Bill, I'm using a Binks Wren with the "A", or smallest nozzle. According to popular opinion, this combo shouldn't work, except, it does.
And no, sadly, I'm not racing at the moment. Driving after dark has become a real challenge, and I try to avoid it.
I am not a doctor, but I played one as a child with the girl next door.
Posted 05 July 2024 - 04:19 PM
Same thing I use to clean it, water.
If it's not a Caveman, It's HISTORY! Support Your local raceways!
Posted 13 February 2025 - 06:15 PM
Had issues with Parma fluorescent colors peeling sometimes. Always ruff up the bodies before washing with Dawn. Been adding Createx 4050 gloss clear about 20% @ about 10% Parma thinner. Stick well sometimes an other times they peel some.
I feel I had better results with Createx wicked fluorescent colors. Always do 3 lit coats. Spray about 20-24 psi use a hair dryer on the cool setting
to assist in paint drying.So far the peeling has only been with the Parma fluorescent colors
Posted 13 February 2025 - 08:22 PM
I had that problem once with Pactra fluorescents but not with Parma's fluorescents. The Parma paint is manufactured by Createx. Many of the same colors are sold under both labels. With some colors, the Parma seems to have more pigment. Could there be some defective Parma paint around?
Posted 14 February 2025 - 04:16 PM
Posted 14 February 2025 - 04:37 PM
Mark, what product are you using for an extender? It sounds like it's a wetting agent. Do you use this for hard bodies, clear bodies , or both?
Posted 14 February 2025 - 06:59 PM
Ok Mark what brand or name extender are you using?
Posted 15 February 2025 - 08:06 AM
Larry, in post #15, you mention adding about 20% Createx gloss clear. Is that just when just using fluorescents or with everything? Do you think the slightly thinned down paint bonds better or is more durable? I know some RC body painters spray a final clear undercoat to help make the topcoats somewhat fuel-proof, but I hadn't heard of it being used with slot car bodies.
Posted 15 February 2025 - 02:13 PM
Bill Been adding it to everything. Real happy on how it works. Been wondering if the formula may be different for the Parma paint as it calms it flexible. Plan to try some without the 4050.
Posted 15 February 2025 - 06:32 PM
Posted 15 February 2025 - 06:41 PM
Posted 15 February 2025 - 06:59 PM
Posted 15 February 2025 - 08:19 PM
Wetting agent & retarder are just other name for extender. i believe Golden is a NY company. Have you ever tried their acrylic paint on a clear body? They sent me a couple sample bottles a few years ago & the paint bonded real well. The only reason I didn't use it regularly was because their products weren't available locally. The popular brand of artist's supplies in this area is Liquitex. Their paint bonds like a gorilla on Lexan. It works good for painting numerals on race bodies. In the 70s, we used Polly S paint for that, a Floquil. acrylic.