10 replies to this topic

[Mad Mark]

Been acquiring more old anglewinder chassis recently and testing my resto skills. this one was actually in pretty good shape beside the rear end being about 1/4 crooked. very simple early example with a ferret motor bracket. I dont think the threaded rear axle is quite correct or the front wheels but Im not really sure. I have lots of period set screw rear wheels.





Been hanging on to this body for a while. fits this chassis almost perfect. its pretty brittle and thin though.

[Bill from NH]

That chassis appears to be an early Ferret chassis or kit someone built. The soldering looks far better & less globby than the factory soldering did. I ran similar Phaze III chassis, made by Ferret, as my weekly race car from 1970-75 at Modelville Hobby.  We ran scale bodies on them from Lancer, Dynamic, & Kirby. Some were open cockpit, some were coupes. We never ran any threaded axles during this timeframe. Your chassis cleaned up nice. 

[Martin]

Nice job Mark, and perfect body for that roller.

 

I would assume the 4 outer brass rails where meant to be bent up at 90 degrees to solder to the front of the front axle tube once w.b. and height are set.

 

There are other ways to strengthen this joint, here are some I found.

 

 

[Mad Mark]

heres another. a later chassis with plumber on the front of drop arm. not sure what heck is going on with the motor bracket and box. either someone built this wrong or who knows. motor sits on top of the rails definitely not right. And the weird bend in the motor bracket along with some brass strips inside not sure what they were trying to shoehorn in there. came as a bare chassis.



Yes wrong motor and guide but its only thing I have that will work at the moment.





added the motor brace too. pretty annoying these motor coming loose with just screws. I sorta thought the axle to motor brace came way later but I was looking in old mags and seems it was done pretty early in anglewinder development.

[Mad Mark]

Nice job Mark, and perfect body for that roller.
 
I would assume the 4 outer brass rails where meant to be bent up at 90 degrees to solder to the front of the front axle tube once w.b. and height are set.
 
There are other ways to strengthen this joint, here are some I found.
 
post-4696-0-32254900-1453488398.jpg
 
post-4696-0-73727600-1483549248.jpg

Thanks for sharing. a lot of those look like the last one I just posted but with correct motor box’s.

[Martin]

Hey Mark, I was looking at ways to use the 4 rails that are on your post 1 chassis.

They looked unfinished to me so I went on a hunt. You can see there are different ways to tie them into the front axle.

[Dave Crevie]

I think I would try to find out any history on the chassis. Might be of significance. Looks like it cleaned up OK. And the body seems to fit. Buterate bodies like enamel, so I would find a dark color to paint it, and leave everything else as is.

 

Hint ) If you know someone who works in a body shop, ask him for a little flex agent. Two drops in one ounce of enamel model paint will keep the paint flexible on the body, and if you are lucky, it will give back some flexibility to the body. Also, avoid taping the body. The old trick of painting the windows with Vaseline will work if you spray on the paint in light coats. 

 

I think what you have done with this car is great! 

[Mad Mark]

I think I would try to find out any history on the chassis. Might be of significance. Looks like it cleaned up OK. And the body seems to fit. Buterate bodies like enamel, so I would find a dark color to paint it, and leave everything else as is.
 
Hint ) If you know someone who works in a body shop, ask him for a little flex agent. Two drops in one ounce of enamel model paint will keep the paint flexible on the body, and if you are lucky, it will give back some flexibility to the body. Also, avoid taping the body. The old trick of painting the windows with Vaseline will work if you spray on the paint in light coats. 
 
I think what you have done with this car is great!

I have lots of one shot sign painting enamel. I’ll probably use some to airbrush it. just not sure what to reduce it with so it doesn’t attack the body. the one shot is super thick out of the can.

[Mad Mark]

Hey Mark, I was looking at ways to use the 4 rails that are on your post 1 chassis.
They looked unfinished to me so I went on a hunt. You can see there are different ways to tie them into the front axle.

Yeah it’s kinda spindly how it is now. didnt get to test it too much since the yellow motor has almost no brakes. also the chassis with elephant ear motor was working quite nice but sometimes I have a issue with motors seeming to bog then just accelerate out of nowhere. well that happened coming out of the straight and I wall shot’d pretty hard and bent the rear end. maybe I’ll fix the motor box sooner than I thought!

[slotcarone]

Yeah it’s kinda spindly how it is now. didnt get to test it too much since the yellow motor has almost no brakes. also the chassis with elephant ear motor was working quite nice but sometimes I have a issue with motors seeming to bog then just accelerate out of nowhere. well that happened coming out of the straight and I wall shot’d pretty hard and bent the rear end. maybe I’ll fix the motor box sooner than I thought!

Sounds like the gearing is not correct. Always better with these old cars to gear for RPM's not speed.

[Mad Mark]

After wall shot anything messed up drives me nuts and I have to fix it right away so dove right in. never messed with anglewinder stuff besides flexi cars so this is all new to me trying to fab up a motor box while also building off someone elses messed up stuff.

Got motor bracket straight again.

Finished with temporary Hong Kong motor. lowered rear ride height a good bit and got bottom of motor flush with bottom of chassis how it should be.


Kinda messed up and made motor box extend back too far to where tires almost hit. easy fix if I feel like it.