18 replies to this topic

[Mad Mark]

Been acquiring more old anglewinder chassis recently and testing my resto skills. this one was actually in pretty good shape beside the rear end being about 1/4 crooked. very simple early example with a ferret motor bracket. I dont think the threaded rear axle is quite correct or the front wheels but Im not really sure. I have lots of period set screw rear wheels.





Been hanging on to this body for a while. fits this chassis almost perfect. its pretty brittle and thin though.

[Bill from NH]

That chassis appears to be an early Ferret chassis or kit someone built. The soldering looks far better & less globby than the factory soldering did. I ran similar Phaze III chassis, made by Ferret, as my weekly race car from 1970-75 at Modelville Hobby.  We ran scale bodies on them from Lancer, Dynamic, & Kirby. Some were open cockpit, some were coupes. We never ran any threaded axles during this timeframe. Your chassis cleaned up nice. 

[Martin]

Nice job Mark, and perfect body for that roller.

 

I would assume the 4 outer brass rails where meant to be bent up at 90 degrees to solder to the front of the front axle tube once w.b. and height are set.

 

There are other ways to strengthen this joint, here are some I found.

 

 

[Mad Mark]

heres another. a later chassis with plumber on the front of drop arm. not sure what heck is going on with the motor bracket and box. either someone built this wrong or who knows. motor sits on top of the rails definitely not right. And the weird bend in the motor bracket along with some brass strips inside not sure what they were trying to shoehorn in there. came as a bare chassis.



Yes wrong motor and guide but its only thing I have that will work at the moment.





added the motor brace too. pretty annoying these motor coming loose with just screws. I sorta thought the axle to motor brace came way later but I was looking in old mags and seems it was done pretty early in anglewinder development.

[Mad Mark]

Nice job Mark, and perfect body for that roller.
 
I would assume the 4 outer brass rails where meant to be bent up at 90 degrees to solder to the front of the front axle tube once w.b. and height are set.
 
There are other ways to strengthen this joint, here are some I found.
 
post-4696-0-32254900-1453488398.jpg
 
post-4696-0-73727600-1483549248.jpg

Thanks for sharing. a lot of those look like the last one I just posted but with correct motor box’s.

[Martin]

Hey Mark, I was looking at ways to use the 4 rails that are on your post 1 chassis.

They looked unfinished to me so I went on a hunt. You can see there are different ways to tie them into the front axle.

[Dave Crevie]

I think I would try to find out any history on the chassis. Might be of significance. Looks like it cleaned up OK. And the body seems to fit. Buterate bodies like enamel, so I would find a dark color to paint it, and leave everything else as is.

 

Hint ) If you know someone who works in a body shop, ask him for a little flex agent. Two drops in one ounce of enamel model paint will keep the paint flexible on the body, and if you are lucky, it will give back some flexibility to the body. Also, avoid taping the body. The old trick of painting the windows with Vaseline will work if you spray on the paint in light coats. 

 

I think what you have done with this car is great! 

[Mad Mark]

I think I would try to find out any history on the chassis. Might be of significance. Looks like it cleaned up OK. And the body seems to fit. Buterate bodies like enamel, so I would find a dark color to paint it, and leave everything else as is.
 
Hint ) If you know someone who works in a body shop, ask him for a little flex agent. Two drops in one ounce of enamel model paint will keep the paint flexible on the body, and if you are lucky, it will give back some flexibility to the body. Also, avoid taping the body. The old trick of painting the windows with Vaseline will work if you spray on the paint in light coats. 
 
I think what you have done with this car is great!

I have lots of one shot sign painting enamel. I’ll probably use some to airbrush it. just not sure what to reduce it with so it doesn’t attack the body. the one shot is super thick out of the can.

[Mad Mark]

Hey Mark, I was looking at ways to use the 4 rails that are on your post 1 chassis.
They looked unfinished to me so I went on a hunt. You can see there are different ways to tie them into the front axle.

Yeah it’s kinda spindly how it is now. didnt get to test it too much since the yellow motor has almost no brakes. also the chassis with elephant ear motor was working quite nice but sometimes I have a issue with motors seeming to bog then just accelerate out of nowhere. well that happened coming out of the straight and I wall shot’d pretty hard and bent the rear end. maybe I’ll fix the motor box sooner than I thought!

[slotcarone]

Yeah it’s kinda spindly how it is now. didnt get to test it too much since the yellow motor has almost no brakes. also the chassis with elephant ear motor was working quite nice but sometimes I have a issue with motors seeming to bog then just accelerate out of nowhere. well that happened coming out of the straight and I wall shot’d pretty hard and bent the rear end. maybe I’ll fix the motor box sooner than I thought!

Sounds like the gearing is not correct. Always better with these old cars to gear for RPM's not speed.

[Mad Mark]

After wall shot anything messed up drives me nuts and I have to fix it right away so dove right in. never messed with anglewinder stuff besides flexi cars so this is all new to me trying to fab up a motor box while also building off someone elses messed up stuff.

Got motor bracket straight again.

Finished with temporary Hong Kong motor. lowered rear ride height a good bit and got bottom of motor flush with bottom of chassis how it should be.


Kinda messed up and made motor box extend back too far to where tires almost hit. easy fix if I feel like it.

[Bill from NH]

Nice restoration Mark! You got plenty of room to move the right side of the motor box when you want. With that RGEO jig, you're nearly a scratchbuilder.    One nice thing about that jig is it has enough versatility to build both 1/24 & 1/32 chassis.

[Martin]

Nice save Mark.

[Mad Mark]

Nice restoration Mark! You got plenty of room to move the right side of the motor box when you want. With that RGEO jig, you're nearly a scratchbuilder.    One nice thing about that jig is it has enough versatility to build both 1/24 & 1/32 chassis.

Thanks! glad I didn’t try to adjust the main rail that goes to the motor bracket. when I tried bending the other rear axle tie in rails they snapped super easy. they also had two flats on them not quite square rails if that is any indicator of chassis kit or who built it. I probably should have taken more time on the motor box and not have it extend back so far but a few cocktails and an hour of work will do that I guess haha.

[Mad Mark]

Also any idea of a good body for this? it isn’t quite modern width so retro bodies get pinched together to fit and mess up the movement of the pans.

[Dave Crevie]

Kinda messed up and made motor box extend back too far to where tires almost hit. easy fix if I feel like it.
2A450264-AFA8-4247-B372-F09774FBBFAC.jpeg

 

Just a thought, since I am not familiar with the rules of the class during this era. Were tires that wide allowed yet? I'm thinking they could only be as wide as the main part of the wheel, and not extend over the axle/set screw part. Like in the photos in post #4. If they can only be the .750 inch wide limit typical of the 1970s, that solves your contact problem.

 

A great body for this chassis would be the Lola T-70 Mk III B coupe. Or the Ferrari 512 S/M coupe. Maybe early Lancer? With a low rear spoiler it should be a blast on a king. Just know that old solder joints are not as stout as they were when they were fresh, so expect to be doing some repair. 

[Mad Mark]

first vintage 4.5 car Ive had. chassis was with the other two I got. production nickel plated not sure of make. pretty rough and bent up with assorted poor repairs and silver spray paint all on top. removed paint as good I could and bent back into shape. had this cool handling charger for a while that was a little rough and bent up. fits perfect so i straightened it out a bit and was able to cut off old pinholes on the bottom edge to clean it up a little.

[Pablo]

Pro Motor & Chassis - Timelines - Slotblog

 

Vintage Rule Sets - Slotblog

[Mad Mark]

Redid motor box when I found out a mura grp20 wouldnt fit. came out better this time as isnt sticking back as far this time and a little tighter to motor.


I have a lot of anglewinders all of a sudden with a serious lack of motors to go in them.