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Slot.it gears scratchbuilt anglewinder question


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#1 Pablo

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Posted 08 May 2025 - 05:07 PM

If I were to use a Slot.it spur GA1630E (30 tooth/16mm OD) and a Slot.it 10T pinion, my choices appear to be:

 

-PI10  5.5mm

-PI6510E  6.5mm

-PS10  6.5mm

 

The "E" indicates "ergal" I guess but it seems ergal means possibly the cuts of the teeth as opposed to the set screw arrangement?

Does an "ergal" spur require an "ergal" pinion? If so the choice would be the PI6510E I guess.

 

Also, the PI6510E appears to be steel instead of brass in the catalog photo.

Is it a press-on like the others?

 

I'm experienced with the crowns but never used one of their spurs, until now. Thanks,

 

Pablo


Paul Wolcott





#2 Pappy

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Posted 08 May 2025 - 08:08 PM

Pablo,

 

Use a ScaleAuto 17.5mm spur gear and a NSR Lightweight (6.5/6.75mm) brass pinion and you'll never have a problem with the gears.


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#3 mickey thumbs

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Posted 08 May 2025 - 08:37 PM

Slot.it usually uses the brass 6.5mm 10T for SW and AW 1/32 applications. The 5.5mm is for their inline motor pods. They make pinions and spurs out of an aluminum alloy called ergal.

From a google search:

Ergal is the strongest aluminum alloy. Suitable for challenging and complex applications in aerospace, marine and industrial sectors. 
 

I stick with the brass and plastic because I find the ergal noisy and with the low torque and rpm motors commonly used in 1/32 scale (compared to 1/24) I don’t feel the need for the extra strength.

I think the noisiness of the ergal gears may be due to the slightly variable pitch used in 1/32 to enable different tooth combinations to work with a fixed diameter spur to accommodate the fixed motor shaft-axle distance. It seems less of a problem with the brass and plastic gears.


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#4 Courtney S

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Posted 09 May 2025 - 06:18 AM

If youre using a 30 /16mm spur gear I strongly recommend you use the 6.5 pinion in brass. I agree with Pappy I like NSR pinions, but I also like NSR gears to match, but I have used scale auto slotting plus and slot it without any problems.
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Courtney Smith

#5 Pappy

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Posted 09 May 2025 - 06:24 AM

Courtney,

 

I used an NSR aluminum spur gear, an NSR brass pinion in an NSR motor pod in an NSR chassis in a 6 hour endurance race and the spur gear chewed up the pinion "twice". Never gain.


Jim "Butch" Dunaway 
 
I don't always go the extra mile, but when I do it's because I missed my exit. 
All my life I've strived to keep from becoming a millionaire, so far I've succeeded. 
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No matter how big of a hammer you use, you can't pound common sense into stupid people, believe me, I've tried.

 


#6 Pablo

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Posted 09 May 2025 - 07:21 AM

Thanks guys  :)  Pappy, your 17.5 mm spur would be too big for this particular build, but thanks anyway  :sun_bespectacled:

I need 16.6 mm or smaller.

 

Thanks for the ergal info, etc. Mike and Courtney.

 

Plastic 16mm/30T non-ergal spur, and a 10T brass non-ergal 6.5 mm pinion it shall be  :dance3:


Paul Wolcott


#7 Dave Crevie

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Posted 09 May 2025 - 08:35 AM

The downside to the Slot-it, etc. spurs and crowns is the smaller set screw. They work fine for most home set cars because of the softer axles. With commercial axles you absolutely have to flat the axle. I used to re-thread the set screw holes for the bigger commercial set screws.

 

The gear pitch is metric, and the equivalent to english 50 pitch. 


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#8 Pablo

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Posted 09 May 2025 - 02:00 PM

I can drill and tap it if I need to. I've done it on the crowns many times


Paul Wolcott


#9 Ramcatlarry

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Posted 10 May 2025 - 01:35 PM

FYI: ALL metal on metal gears require some lubrication.  The softer one will usually fail without it.


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#10 Bill from NH

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Posted 10 May 2025 - 02:00 PM

A thin grease like Lubriplate works well. We used that with Faas bronze spurs & steel pinions.
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#11 Dave Crevie

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Posted 11 May 2025 - 09:59 AM

Again, using gears with matching tooth profiles is most important. Mixing gears with different pressure angles is death. You will be lucky to get a full race in, regardless of what lubricant is used. Stick with the same manufacturer for both gears.

 

This animation shows the interaction of the gear teeth as the pinion drives the larger spur gear.

 

https://geargenerato...,0,0,0,0,3,1114

 

 

Gear tooth geometry;

 

Screenshot 2025-05-11 092317.png

 

 

The pressure angle is the line drawn through the point of contact between the teeth when it intersects with the pitch diameter, and is 900 to the  pitch base circle.

 

Screenshot 2025-05-11 094231.png

 

Kicking the motor over on an angle is never a good idea with straight cut gears. You need bevel gears for that, or live with the high wear on the gears.


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#12 Pablo

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Posted 21 May 2025 - 12:46 AM

Thanks again everybody for the help. The Slot.it gears arrived and I did a mesh test before starting to build.

Tack soldered a jig motor into an old TFlex chassis using the gears, and spun it up.

 

IMG_4025.JPG

 

Butter smooth. Incredibly, it drew slightly less amps @ 3V with the spur in place than without  :shok:


Paul Wolcott


#13 Dave Crevie

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Posted 21 May 2025 - 08:54 AM

Angle spur. Good choice. You may find a slight variance in draw dependent on gear mesh. There is a sweet spot, and if you don't know the profile specs on the gear teeth, you can only find that by trial and error.







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