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Gascarnut's routed track


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#26 gascarnut

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Posted 29 November 2008 - 01:30 AM

Thanks, Russell - now you have to come visit!

Dennis Samson
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#27 gascarnut

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Posted 29 November 2008 - 01:46 AM

Thanksgiving update:

Two days of work on the track have made for some serious progress.

I decided that rather than stripe the lane colors alogside the slots, I would paint the slot and the braid recess in the lane color. This will give a more subtle lane coloring once the braid is in place. It's a LOT of work, though, as I did it by hand with a small flat paintbrush:

Posted Image

While waiting for all that paint to dry, I added a few barriers. I had routed extra slots for them while I was routing the racing slots:

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Then I needed to mask off the lane colors in order to paint the track surface. It took a few hours, and one complete 180-foot roll of 3/4" masking tape. I made a little burnishing tool to help get the tape where I wanted it:

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With all the tape in place, time for paint. I have been thinking a lot about what type of paint to use, as I have a lot of 1/32 scale cars with silicon tires as well as foam tires. I eventually went with a paint called UMA - Urethane Modified Acrylic. It is actually a primer that is intended for application on difficult surfaces. A few of my Colorado 1/32 scale racing buddies had used it on their plastic tracks and it is surprisingly good with foam tires, so I decided to give it a try. I can always paint over it later if it doesn't work. I had the paint store tint it as dark as they could - the base paint is white and they can't add a lot of tinting as it messes with the paint's properties apparently:

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That's what it looks like after two coats with a foam roller - pretty nice I think.

Then just before it was all too dry I took up the masking tape, which worked well, no bleeds or mess anywhere, and this is where I am now:

Posted Image

Next will be the two-sided tape that will hold the braid down, then it's braiding time. Or maybe I should paint the barriers and do some scenery first - if I get to a point where I can put power on this thing I might not get the rest finished!

Dennis Samson
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#28 munter

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Posted 29 November 2008 - 04:34 AM

Hi Dennis,

Can you tell me how you have painted under the bridge/flyover?

How will you braid this part of the track?
Will you need to cut the braid at all?

Can I see a lift off section in the pictures?

This is puzzling me for my intended build.

ps I have followd this thread and would like to compliment you on a fine build.

Thanks
John

John Warren
Slot cars are my preferred reality


#29 Jairus

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Posted 29 November 2008 - 07:37 AM

Looking really good Dennis! :D

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#30 Tim Neja

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Posted 29 November 2008 - 01:09 PM

Looking really good Dennis!! If you want some help laying braid or anything--call me!! I'd love to come see it first hand-- YEAH--POWER!!! LET'S GET POWER TO IT!! :D
You can add grass and buildings and trees from the local hobby shop stock for train layouts!! :shok:
T
She's real fine, my 409!!!

#31 gascarnut

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Posted 30 November 2008 - 01:15 AM

Hi Dennis,

Can you tell me how you have painted under the bridge/flyover?

How will you braid this part of the track?
Will you need to cut the braid at all?

Can I see a lift off section in the pictures?

This is puzzling me for my intended build.

ps I have followd this thread and would like to compliment you on a fine build.

Thanks
John


John,

The whole bridge section lifts off as a separate unit. I will take a photo or two tomorrow and post them.

I will cut the braid in a number of places, mostly because I want the track to be modular. There will be joints in the braid wherever the 4 sections of the track join, so 8 places in all. It osunds like a lot, but Iwant to be able to take it all apart easily.

The way I am going to wire it all, there will be two power taps that will both be on the same section of the track, yet nearly half distance apart. That will make disassembly easy too.

I painted barriers today and hopefully tomorrow I can start the braiding. Once the braid is down under the bridge I can screw it down in place for the last time. It has been on and off maybe 10 or 15 times while I've been building.

Dennis Samson
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#32 gascarnut

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Posted 30 November 2008 - 01:23 AM

I'd love to come see it first hand--


Give me a call tomorrow - I will probably work on it all day until it starts to get dark.

You can add grass and buildings and trees from the local hobby shop stock for train layouts!! :shok:


You didn't see my previous track, did you?

Posted Image

Pebblestone Raceway

Dennis Samson
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Scratchbuilding is life
Life is scratchbuilt

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#33 Tim Neja

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Posted 30 November 2008 - 11:13 AM

Yeah that looks cool too!! Oh Oh---Xmass decorating day at the Neja's!! I may be able to get by late afternoon!! Looking really good Dennis!!
T
She's real fine, my 409!!!

#34 gascarnut

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Posted 01 December 2008 - 12:27 PM

Today's updates:

First off, Munter - here's the bridge photos I promised:

Posted Image

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The whole thing is held down with 24 wood screws. I hope this helps give you the idea.

Saturday I spent some time painting the barriers that I had installed Friday:

Posted Image

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The unpainted sections will be getting some scenic detailing later.

Posted Image

Then I set about applying the two-sided tape that will hold the braid down. This is a special 3M tape called VHB - it is super sticky, but not too difficult to apply. The only issue is getting the paper backing to bend around the curves. It tends to lift, but at least the adhesive is left in the right place:

Posted Image

I laid the braid under the bridge section first, so that I could reinstall the bridge for good as soon as possible. The braid goes down real easy, but as it was getting dark by then, I did not manage to do too much:

Posted Image

Close-up:

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I have planned the whole track in such a way that it will easily dismantle in 4 pieces, so that means a number of braid joints. These will be done underneath the track, with the braid being passed down through 1/4" holes in the surface:

Posted Image.

I have offset the holes in each lane so as to be sure I don't get any bits of braid touching and shorting out. Also, the way it is designed, when I come to put in the power taps, all the wiring from the powersupply and controllers will be on one of the sections of the track, so if it has to be taken apart, it's just the braid connectors and the bolts that hold the frame together that have to be loosened, all the other wiring stays in place.

Last thing for today, a decent cover to keep out the dust (and the cat hair!):

Posted Image

Not long now, and laps will be turned!

Dennis Samson
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Life is scratchbuilt

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#35 Craig

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Posted 01 December 2008 - 01:30 PM

Hey Dennis, the first picture is somewhat deceiving, looks like a drive through window for the hungrier bunch. :popcorm1:

The way the picture was shot the fence seems to blend into the window frame. May I take your order?

Craig Correia

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#36 redbackspyder

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Posted 01 December 2008 - 01:48 PM

Give me a call tomorrow - I will probably work on it all day until it starts to get dark.



You didn't see my previous track, did you?

Posted Image

Pebblestone Raceway


Dennis, once again your track is a tribute to your building skills, and as usual is brilliant. Fantastic work, and thank you again for the wonderful build pictures, it is very inspiring.

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#37 gascarnut

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Posted 01 December 2008 - 01:48 PM

Hey Dennis, the first picture is somewhat deceiving, looks like a drive through window for the hungrier bunch. :popcorm1:

The way the picture was shot the fence seems to blend into the window frame. May I take your order?


Craig,

LOL - none of the turns have names yet, but that section might just become "the Drive-thru" now :)

You want fries wit dat?

Dennis Samson
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#38 Jeff R

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Posted 01 December 2008 - 08:41 PM

Great looking track Dennis, my son wants to build a small track for a school project maybe a 4' x 4' or a 4' x 8' depending on the size limit. Great idea on the lane color choice wasn't sure how it would look but it is such a clean look. Enjoy tour track and I will post my son's as soon as we start.
Jeff Russell

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#39 Tim Neja

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Posted 02 December 2008 - 02:08 AM

Looking GREAT Dennis--- how soon should I bring over my cars to play???? :D :D :D
She's real fine, my 409!!!

#40 munter

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Posted 02 December 2008 - 12:34 PM

Thank you Dennis
Your pictures and words confirm that I have to follow your example when braiding the flyover part of my track.
At this stage I am still building the table frames but I am also gathering info and materials.
Thank you once more
John

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#41 vfr750

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Posted 03 December 2008 - 04:38 AM

Hi Dennis,

An inspirational build. Do you have any photos of how the 4 pieces join together please?

I'm planning on building a new track. I've recently torn down my old one and hopefully have learnt from my mistakes.

Here are some photos of my old track: http://www.oldslotracer.com/JohnR.html

Cheers,

John
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#42 gascarnut

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Posted 03 December 2008 - 02:36 PM

Thanks John - your own track always looked good to me!

The only photo I have that shows some of the detail is this one:

Posted Image

What I did was to line up the individual frame sections using a bubble level, by adjusting the legs. Then once everything was lined up, I claped the mating surfaces together and drilled through both with a 1/4" drill, which was a failry tight fit on the 1/4' carriage bolts us then used to bolt it all together. At the same time I drilled the second hole in each leg and bolted them solid as well.

The photo was taken before I had them all done this way so only the joints closest to the camera are complete.

It sounds kind-of basic, but I did dis-assemble it all once or twice early on and it all reassembled straight and lined up again.

Dennis Samson
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Life is scratchbuilt

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#43 MSwiss

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Posted 03 December 2008 - 03:52 PM

A local guy used the tape for his braid on his fairly large basement track and was really happy with it.
He invited me over to look at it and I had to be the guy to point out the outer braid in most turns had crept into the slot.
I have heard good things about using double-stick so I'm assuming he used the wrong tape or pulled it too tight.

Mike Swiss
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Two-time G7 World Champion (1988, 1990), eight G7 main appearances
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17B West Ogden Ave Westmont, IL 60559, (708) 203-8003, mikeswiss86@hotmail.com (also my PayPal address)

Note: Send all USPS packages and mail to: 5858 Chase Ave., Downers Grove, IL 60516


#44 gascarnut

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Posted 03 December 2008 - 04:55 PM

A local guy used the tape for his braid on his fairly large basement track and was really happy with it.
He invited me over to look at it and I had to be the guy to point out the outer braid in most turns had crept into the slot.
I have heard good things about using double-stick so I'm assuming he used the wrong tape or pulled it too tight.


Maybe he just pulled the braid too tight?

It did not seem to me like the sticky part of the tape was going to move much at all. The paper backing was difficult to keep in position, so I taped some then braided it almost immediately then did some more.

I will check tonight whether the outer braid has moved any.

Dennis Samson
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Scratchbuilding is life
Life is scratchbuilt

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#45 MSwiss

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Posted 03 December 2008 - 05:09 PM

I wouldn't fret too much. I seem to remember it was a situation with the guy building the track, a professional carpenter,
getting told what he had was the same as the 3M and it wasn't.

Mike Swiss
IRRA® Components Committee Chairman
Five-time USRA National Champion (two G7, one G27, two G7 Senior)
Two-time G7 World Champion (1988, 1990), eight G7 main appearances
Eight-time G7 King track single lap world record holder

17B West Ogden Ave Westmont, IL 60559, (708) 203-8003, mikeswiss86@hotmail.com (also my PayPal address)

Note: Send all USPS packages and mail to: 5858 Chase Ave., Downers Grove, IL 60516


#46 vfr750

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Posted 04 December 2008 - 03:44 AM

Thanks for the photo Dennis, it's helpful.

The problem with my track was that the crest coming up the bridge was too close to the curve so that if you got the nose in the air it would miss the slot as it dropped down. I tore the bridge up to insert a small straight and then kept seeing other areas that needed improvement. This will be my third track so hopefully I'll have learnt from past mistakes.

Cheers,

John
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#47 Edo

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Posted 04 December 2008 - 10:00 AM

All I have to say is:
Fantastic job, Dennis&wife!
EdoTBertoglio - Maverick assembler (formerly troubled)

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#48 gascarnut

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Posted 04 December 2008 - 12:24 PM

All I have to say is:
Fantastic job, Dennis&wife!


Thanks!

Her name is Adrienne.

Dennis Samson
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Scratchbuilding is life
Life is scratchbuilt

Samson Classics


#49 Ed Endres

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Posted 04 December 2008 - 02:23 PM

Hi Dennis,

That is one very nice build. And if King Edo says it is nice, that means that you
should run Thingies on it too. I ordered 3 thingy bodies yesterday so I could start to build one.

Thanks for sharing.
ed endres

#50 gascarnut

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Posted 06 December 2008 - 11:05 PM

Thanks Ed!

I got the center lane braided today, and managed to rig up a power supply and a controller. I must have turned about 500 laps with a number of my 1/32 cars that have not turned a wheel since I left Colorado in January!

It looks like the grip will be good for pretty much any kind of tire - I ran rubber, foam, various brands of silicons and Ortmann urethanes, and everything works, some better than others of course. It seems to me that the older Ortmann tires work the best so far, but clean unterated foams are very nice too, and very smooth of course.

Photos later.

Dennis Samson
--------------------------
Scratchbuilding is life
Life is scratchbuilt

Samson Classics






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