20 replies to this topic

[Chris Barnes]

Which is the best way to install ball bearings? Soldering is strong, but may distort the bearing due to the excessive heat. Gluing adds no heat, but is not as strong.

If gluing is the preferred method, then what brand of glue?

[Noose]

Loctite Red and use one of the ProFormance Bearing Alignment tools. Seats them perfectly. Works with bushings, too.

[brnursebmt]

Chris,

I have always used Loctite Red and have never had a problem. Just make sure both surfaces are clean.

[jason]

I would like to know why you wouldn't solder them in. You made reference to the fact the heat will mess them up. How so? Don't the wing car guys solder theirs in?

[MSwiss]

I always did and still do solder them in trying to use as little heat as possible.
I sort of tack them in three steps per side, not worrying if the whole circumference has solder around it. 270-300 degrees is probably plenty.

Quite a few wing guys that didn't solder them in would have them come loose,
which typically screwed up the gear mesh.

Just the same, Retro cars are only going half as fast so Loctite is probably adequate.

[TSR]

I have always soldered the bearings and do not remember any issues... but on the D3 cars I use red Loctite because this way I don't have to wash the chassis once more.

[Zippity]

What is the part number for the Loctite Red that you guys are using?

[TSR]

Personally, # 27100 works fine for me.

[Cheater]

That would be Loctite 271.

The "00" on the end of PdL's number specifies the packaging, I believe, which is a carded 6ml tube.

Funny thing is that packaging is no longer shown on the Henkel-Loctite website (see above link).

Loctite dropped the red, blue, green designations a few years ago.

[Rick]

Red (#262 & #271) and Green (#290) both will work well. #222 is for minature screws like 0-80 and is removable. The blue is removable (number escapes me) but not guaranteed on very small screws. BTW, green is considered wicking, be careful and frugal with it.

I prefer the open bearings over the clsoed/sealed ones. Why? They are packed with an animal lube (fat) and when heated will crystalize under the heat and cause premature failure. Open bearings allow you to spray them out with a good solvent, spray and remove all of this lube/fat, then solder in, wash out again, very well, and oil. They will last a long time.

[Rick]

Loctite Red and use one of the ProFormance Bearing Alignment tools. Seats them perfectly. Works with bushings, too.

This is what I call a "romance item".

[Cheater]

It is a nice piece and features some subtle improvements over my homemade unit (see below).

I used to align my bushings using a similar device made from a ballpoint pen spring and a pair of hubs trimmed from a couple of old tires. Worked pretty well, IF the flanges on the bushings are 90 degrees to the centerlines of the bores.

I've developed a better way to align bushings now...

[slotcarone]

I have been using Loctite Blue with no problems so far. I put them in and walk away for a day to let it harden.

[tonyp]

Green for me, only because we have it here at work. I have also used thick CA clue with no problems.

[Toremeister]

What is the part number for the Loctite Red that you guys are using?

My old Loctite bottle number is 271. If'n yer gonna solder bearings in, clean or flush them out with naphtha (lighter fluid) as the oil inside bearings will crust up and not spin sano. Also make sure pillow blocks are squared-up in chassis!

Merry Christmas, Happy Holidays to ALL!

[Bob Campbell]

BTW, green is considered wicking, be careful and frugal with it.

Rick,

There are two grades of green. I can't remember the numbers either, but the thin green is the wicking. Wicking loctite is the same strength as blue.

The thick green is bearing and sleeve retainer. This is very strong and will also fill a .007" gap.

Everyone,

As far as soldering goes, don't most cans that have bearings installed have them soldered in? I've always soldered bearings on the open cars and never had issues. On my Can-Am cars, I'm with PdL, and glue them in just for ease of assembly and clean-up.

I use a black super glue. It is a "toughened" super glue. I like super glue because you can spray accelerator on it to make it cure faster. Sorry, I don't have part numbers I'll post them later if I find them.

[Pappy]

I have been using Loc Tite Blue with no problems so far. I put them in and walk away for a day to let it harden.

I use blue, they don't spin and I can pop them out with an X-Acto knife.

[Phil Irvin]

Back in the 70s. I used to use Locktite on studs I didn't want to come out. It was called "STUD & BEARING MOUNT".
I don't remember the number but do know that if you use it on fine thread 1/2 bolts....IT AINT COMIN OUT unless you use a torch & get it a dull red and use an impact wrench....The bolt will be history but the threads will need a tap chasser run threw it.

PHIL I.

[mhslot13]

Ok I see the point of useing glue to install the bearings ..now how do you Uninstalll the bearings ? To put in new ones

[old & gray]

Ok I see the point of useing glue to install the bearings ..now how do you Uninstalll the bearings ? To put in new ones

 

Depending on the "glue" you use there is usually some way to break down the bond strength. IF I remember Loctite will break down if heated with a soldering iron. 

 

Eastman 910 (early CA glue) was susceptible to high humidity with moderate heat. (Someone took a couple of tubes home from work; glued the soap dish, towel rod, and curtain rod in his newly tiled shower. When his wife took a hot steamy shower, everything fell down.)

 

Check the MDS sheets for the adhesive you use. 

[Bill from NH]

You don't want to use Stud & Bearing Mount, you'd use it when for putting studs in an engine block that hold the heads on. I've used  Loctite Retaining Compounds for many years. The last bottle I got was 609, but I don't know their current product numbers.