8 replies to this topic

[Dave Larsen]

Here's some GT-12 chassis the some might not be aware of

I have found these chassis to my liking, and driving style/habbits. They come in a kit form, so a jig, soldering iron are needed. Up here in NORCAL/SCRA our GT-12 chassis CAN NOT cost more then $53.00 with these chassis kits falling under that mark, check'um out.

A new Richard Mack, I ran this for the first time a week or so ago on the hill climb down at Fresno, although a Speedway and H.P. is what it takes. The car handled very well for it's VERY first time on the track and that was on race day. I look for this chassis to work very well on a FLAT TRACK we will see here in a few weeks at SCR.....



The latest Brian Saunders, this chassis works great everywhere, especially on the "Mother Load" .....



A Horky, which is another great running chassis, and has worked great where ever I have raced it .....



Some Asp 4's, one set up tight, and one set up loose have always worked great for me. These chassis will be for 4 sale in the swap shop....




As with any of the formentioned chassis, one day one works great, and on the next day another one works great on the same track. As one would know this is due to track conditions. I just wanted to show some of the different and competitive chassis that are out there for one too use.

[GTPJoe]

Dave

Great pictures, thanks!!

On the Asp's when you say "tight" and "loose" are you talking about chassis movement/play?
Could you explain a little about how you did this? Either tightening or loosening the chassis...

See ya!!

[Dave Larsen]

I'm very sorry GTP Joe for not getting back to you sooner

To answer your question about "tight" & "loose" chassis conditions on the "Asp 4" chassis. When one of these chassis (Asp 4) is "tight" this means that the car is not sliding around the turns, as it should. The "Asp 4" likes a clean track (Not much rubber) once the there is a lot of rubber on the track, the tuning window is very narrow for the stock chassis. BY NO MEANS AM I SLAMING THIS CHASSIS.... I HAVE WON A LOT OF RACES WITH THE ASP "4"

When looking at this picture from the rear.....



First, you will see the "up-stops" that were added (.032) some chassis came with them others did not, I added mine. Next you will see the rear pin tube body mount (another tuning tool) In front of the rear pin tube is the "Bite Bar" or how I've known it to be called through out the years. A stock Asp "4" comes with a "Bite Bar" made of .046 piano wire, soldered to each side of the the "Bat Pans" Oh .... I mean the "Bite Bar" is soldered to each mounting boss that holds the the (bite bar/ rear pin tube) Heck .... These things have no stinking bat pans, what was I thinking In retrospect, the Asp "4" in stock form is a "tight" chassis.* REMEMBER* The "4" flys the mail when track condition's suit this chassis in it's stock form

Onward.... On too the "loose" side of things The "Bite Bar" on the "loose" chassis is now a peice of .032 piano wire (or your choiceof size) and is SOLDERED TO ONE SIDE OF THE CHASSIS'S REAR PIN TUBE/BITE BAR MOUNTING BOSS as shown in the picture above. In order to do this, you will have to remove the "Bite Bar" all together, and ream the one hole that the "Bite Bar" will move back and forth in. (unsoldered side) Solder the "Bite Bar" back in on ONE SIDE ONLY the chassis will have a lot more flex in it, thus makinhg it a "looser" chassis or in other terms, a chassis with less bite. Realize this..... Depending on the track/ track conditions/driving ability/habits will make the "loose" chassis something that one WANT'S in their box. There is only so far one can go with one chassis on any given race day, and the track's conditions that are offered. But then again, I have been there and done that I did not like this gig, because it cut's into my body painting/car building/ B.S.'n with my friends on the day of....

Also.... REMEMBER you can unsolder one side of the "Bite Bar" on a stock Asp "4" this will also make the chassis "loose." It all depends on how "loose" of a chassis that is required for your driving habits, and the track conditions that are given to you. The day of..... Once you have your ride set up to the track conditions at hand, you can start throwing more H.P. at the track and tuning with the body

[GTPJoe]

Dave,

Sir, thank you for that tutorial on the chassis tuning. Just what I needed to know.

See Ya!!

[Phil Irvin]

Where can the MACK & SAUNDERS chassis be purchased or seen at?

PHIL I.

[Roger Schmitt]

you can get them here

http://shop.slotcar1...c?categoryId=75

rog

[Tim Neja]

Hey Dave--

Why the copper wires going to the motor? Are they lighter or have less resistance? They look clean-- but why not just Slick 7 20 guage or something like that?
T

[Mac]

you can get them here

http://shop.slotcar1...c?categoryId=75

rog

Richard MACK is a super nice Englishman. He builds beautiful pieces because he is a jeweler by trade. Brian Saunders, world champion and English man, also makes superb chassis.

I can highly recommend them both.

[Matt Sheldon]

Dave,

I know that this post is almost 2 years old, but still very good info. If a racer was wanting to get their feet wet in GT12 and wanted a good all around chassis what would be your suggestion? Flat, King or possibly both?