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Fly Weight GP Car


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#26 dc-65x

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Posted 04 May 2007 - 05:30 PM

I've hesitated finishing this project because I know I'll be running this car and I'm worried I'll smash up my last Lancer "Brittlerate" vintage Lotus 25 body. Tom Anderson came to the rescue with his repos. While they are not as perfect as an original Lancer I think the F1 Lotus 25 and Ferrari 158 I received are quite good. Here is the Lotus, Tom's is in front and the Lancer is in the back:

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Here are the Ferraris. Again the Lancer is in back:

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Here's the link to his web site: Tom Anderson's Vintage Bodies

So, let's get on with the project :) . I've got the wheel inserts painted and installed:

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I'm sure there are other paints you can use but for non-Lexan bodies I've been using Testors model paint. For British racing green I use their gloss green and add flat black until I get the shade I'm after:

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It's time to rough up the inside of the body with a Scotch Brite pad and get to painting . . .

Rick Thigpen
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#27 BWA

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Posted 04 May 2007 - 06:57 PM

Very nice . . . 8)
Al Penrose BWA (Batchelor Without Arts, Eh!)

#28 dc-65x

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Posted 04 May 2007 - 07:27 PM

Thanks, Al. I think I will mix a little lighter shade of BRG than on the Lotus 40 . . . unless I goof adding the black!

Rick Thigpen
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#29 edworth

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Posted 04 May 2007 - 08:02 PM

I'm sure there are other paints you can use but for non-Lexan bodies I've been using Testors model paint . . .

Very, very nice BRG. 8)

:?: In the '60s we just used paint like Testors, their so-called enamels. I hear folks saying not to use it now . . . it cracks. Is this just because the modern bodies are so very thin?

Are the new Testors paints enamel or what?
Ed Worthington
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“We don't stop playing because we grow old; we grow old because we stop playing.”

#30 dc-65x

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Posted 04 May 2007 - 09:02 PM

I know that back in the day model enamel wasn't flexible enough to use on clear bodies. Steve Daro taught me that today’s stuff is. I'm sure there are other paints that work as well, maybe better, but I like using Testors. Here's another vintage Lancer body painted with Testors model paint:

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Here's its nose after a wall shot:

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Several nice cracks and the paint is still on the body. This is another reason I like repop bodies for "shop cars". Anyway, before I started following Steve's advice I painted a 1/32 Dubro body with Testors model paint. Then I twisted it into a pretzel. The paint stayed put. I do sand the inside of the body before I paint to improve adhesion however. :)

Rick Thigpen
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#31 edworth

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Posted 04 May 2007 - 09:10 PM

Nice little red car.

Done with a brush or thinned and sprayed? :?:

Decals on the outside I assume? :?:
Ed Worthington
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#32 dc-65x

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Posted 04 May 2007 - 09:15 PM

Thanks, Ed. :) The decals are on the outside and the paint was thinned and sprayed with an airbrush.

Rick Thigpen
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#33 BWA

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Posted 05 May 2007 - 08:56 AM

Hey Rick, you are in luck, I'm just putting the finishing touches on a .500 dia Ferrari five-spoke insert. :mrgreen:
Al Penrose BWA (Batchelor Without Arts, Eh!)

#34 dc-65x

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Posted 05 May 2007 - 06:55 PM

Hi Al,

Could we see a picture please? :)

Rick Thigpen
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#35 BWA

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Posted 05 May 2007 - 07:23 PM

Just going out to play some Muzak, but, I'll try and get a pic posted tomorrow. ;)
Al Penrose BWA (Batchelor Without Arts, Eh!)

#36 dc-65x

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Posted 06 May 2007 - 04:09 PM

Here's the body with a fresh paint job of Captain Rick's BRG and yellow. Enamel is slow to dry so . . . I'll just have to start another project while it dries for a few days. :mrgreen:

Posted Image

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#37 Joe Mig

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Posted 09 May 2007 - 09:03 PM

That's the problem with Testors paint: it takes days to dry. :x
The car is real nice. I'd love to see it complete. :up:
Joseph Migliaccio. Karma it's a wonderful thing.

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#38 dc-65x

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Posted 09 May 2007 - 09:31 PM

Thanks, Joe. I hope to get it finished this weekend and post pics . . . if the paint's dry. :mrgreen:

Rick Thigpen
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#39 Joe Mig

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Posted 10 May 2007 - 05:05 AM

Try Tamiya paints. They're excellent! :up:
Joseph Migliaccio. Karma it's a wonderful thing.

"Drive it like you're in it!!!"

"If everything feels under control... you are not going fast enough!"

Some people are like Slinkies... they're really good for nothing... but they still bring a smile to your face when you push them down a flight of stairs.

#40 dc-65x

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Posted 10 May 2007 - 09:05 AM

I love Tamiya for hard plastic models. I've been told that it is a lacquer and will curl vintage butyrate bodies . . . but I haven't tried it myself.

Rick Thigpen
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#41 Bill from NH

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Posted 10 May 2007 - 10:05 AM

Tamiya does make a water-soluble paint for polycarbonate. It works well on Lexan but I haven't tried it on butyrate. :)

#42 endbelldrive

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Posted 10 May 2007 - 01:43 PM

Hi Rick, I add a tiny bit of Japan Dryer which is available from artist's supply stores (right next to the turpentine and varnish :) ) to speed up the drying time of those enamel paints. You might want to do a test first because it may make the paint less flexible, too.

The other gadget is one of those food dehydrators which will fit a 1/24 scale body in it if you cut the top shelf out. It's fine with polystyrene hard bodies but it might warp butyrate or PETG so a bit of testing is in order.

Ronco Food Dehydrator . . . I kid you not!! 8)
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#43 Cheater

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Posted 10 May 2007 - 02:32 PM

Bob, I don't paint so I'm passing along hearsay, but my understanding is that you can't even dry PETG bodies with a hair dryer on low, so I doubt you could put them in that dehydrator.

Gregory Wells

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#44 dc-65x

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Posted 10 May 2007 - 04:30 PM

Here's the body with a fresh paint job of Captain Rick's BRG and yellow. Enamel is slow to dry so . . . I'll just have to start another project while it dries for a few days.

Thanks for all the tips :up: but I like to just start building something else while nature takes its course. :mrgreen:. Any excuse to build another car. ;)

Rick Thigpen
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#45 endbelldrive

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Posted 10 May 2007 - 04:49 PM

Aye, aye, Captain. :)
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#46 Bill from NH

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Posted 11 May 2007 - 08:03 AM

Bob, I don't paint so I'm passing along hearsay, but my understanding is that you can't even dry PETG bodies with a hair dryer on low, so I doubt you could put them in that dehydrator.

Not sure about PETG but this was true of the early Kelly bodies. More than one person ended up with a shriveled mess. Most racers up here still won't use them. :)

#47 BWA

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Posted 11 May 2007 - 06:07 PM

Well, as promised about a week ago, here's some pics of new .500 dia inserts.

Wheel on the left is Aerodyn's repro Russkit narrow rim, the other two are my new 1/24 scale wide and narrow drop center wheels.

The middle insert is the Russkit BBS/Wire kinda thingy.

Posted Image

Posted Image
Al Penrose BWA (Batchelor Without Arts, Eh!)

#48 Larry LS

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Posted 11 May 2007 - 06:52 PM

Bill, careless people can screwup PETG and still want to brag about it. :lol:

Even I have melted Lexan bodies by being careless drying paint, with 100 watt light bulbs, and forgetting about them while they were under one for an hour or so. :x:

Idiots are even more ingenious. As GT40 says. :mrgreen:
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#49 dc-65x

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Posted 13 May 2007 - 07:50 PM

Well, as promised about a week ago, here's some pics of new .500 dia inserts.

Wheel on the left is Aerodyn's repro Russkit narrow rim, the other two are my new 1/24 scale wide and narrow drop center wheels.

The middle insert is the Russkit BBS/Wire kinda thingy.

Posted Image

Posted Image


Beautiful :up: Never satisfied he asks, "are you going to make knock offs for the wire wheels too?" :shock: I bet that would be a pain but it sure would be 8) 8) 8) :mrgreen:

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#50 dc-65x

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Posted 13 May 2007 - 07:56 PM

It's finished . . . well . . . I'd like to put some mirrors on it but I have only a few left :( . Any way, here it is ready to go:

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My how slot cars changed in just a few years. In 1966 the Lotus was the hot ticket and in 1969 an anglewinder Honda "Low and Wide" was the way to go:

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Onward to the next project. :)

Rick Thigpen
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