24 replies to this topic

[68Caddy]

The time has come for me to start to build scratch build chassis for 1:32 for commercial available cars like Fly, Spirit run of the mil cars.
I have seen some wonderful build cars by Dennis Samson and I'm sure there is plenty of you guys out there doing it.
My question is what type of motor brackets are you using?
Is it the same as what we are using in D3 or do you make up your own?
Face it we have inline, sidewinder or angle winders and I want to make them in brass, I sure don't want to graft some plastic motor pods into this
build ups.
Any help would be appreciated.

Nesta

[idare2bdul]

I think Dennis is using mostly the same type of brackets we use in D3 but BWA has some that look to be smaller still.
BWA mini motor mount BWB50021. They also have a matching nose piece BWB50022.

[Dooner]

Hi Nesta.

Rick from R-Geo makes the smallest one I've seen. It is only 3/4" wide.

Bryan Warmack can also make them the same size.

[munter]

I have used the BWA brackets and they are great for a skinny F1/GP car in 1/32 scale but if you are starting out they will be frustrating first time up because they are "short" and narrow.
The shortness is the distance from axle centre to end plate.
It can be a real fiddle trying to get the crown and pinion to work well together.
I have done it a few times now and think I have it pretty well sussed.
I would recommend something a bit more open in dimensions....
Maybe Al has something else ...or???

John

[Edo]

Hi Nesta
you might also want to take a look at the this link, mid page, at the ABslot site here:
Midi motor bracket
The MIDI Motor Bracket was successfully used in the 2008 World Proxy Thingie Series on all 1/32 cars in conjuction with the TSRF D3 motor.
Here are just some some examples on how it was used by different builders:


(Jairus's)


(Lucio Cocchi's)


(Brian McPherson's)

Regards
Edo

PS Nesta, given your great talent in making beautiful 1/32 scale cars I'm sure we'll see outstanding scratchbuilt models.
You have a bright future in front of you on SBlog

[Noose]

Nesta,
Here's a little gem Tony P built using the BWA bracket.

Tony P did his magic and below is the Tony P Spyder Retro 1/32 Car.

The car...





Chassis photos. Typical floppy set-up.

[Jairus]

I didn't use a bracket on the full plumber anglewinder that I built a while back.....

[Prof. Fate]

Hi

For me, it depends on how i am going to use the car. Some clubs require one thing or another.

If I am building for myslef, I do a bracketless anglewinder.

If I use an inline, it involves the reh/ex-Dubro inline bracket which I used in the 60s and REH still has bins of now!

Fate

[havlicek]

Jairus...I was trying to remember the details of that 1/32 anglewinder not long ago. I thought it was you that had built it but couldn't remember and/or find the build article. That is a deadly-cool car! I don't what it's like to keep it on the track with all that vintage muscle shoe-horned into it but it sure looks like it would be fun trying!

-john

[JBriggsK9]

Nesta

As most have told you the BWA inline bracket is one of the best out there and what I use on all my inline chassis.. For the anglewinder chassis I use a bracket make by Champion, I will hunt up the parts number later.. But as several have said you don't really need a motor bracket of and anglewinder set up..

And don't sell the plastic pods grafted to a brass chassis short, they make great running and handling cars. I have made a number of them and they work just as well as a full scratch built chassis.. I have used the Fly sidweinder motor pod and the Slot-it motor pods. And when sent up in a rattler or hinged chassis work great.. The other advantage to the pods is you already have your axle carrier attached so you know it is set up right to start with.

Chris

[68Caddy]

Post I
Thank you so much for those beautiful pic's Chris I'm glad you mention the plastic motor pods are a good combination with the brass chassis, I
sure will try one btw love your JIG.
Dear Edo thank you for believing in me and Noose showing me that Sweet TonyP chassis and Jairus you and Havlicek that's a story by it self.
Mike B thanks for the tip about the BWA nose piece will make my life much easier, I got the motor brackets.
One last question, mounting should I use body Pins or use the existing mounting post on the body? If you can help me out on this that really would help me out.
If I won't reply is due to my posting Privileges three a day.

Second class citizen.

Nesta
Two more post left.

[munter]

One last question, mounting should I use body Pins or use the existing mounting post on the body?

I use pins for lexan bodies but for hard bodies use existing posts when possible.
Sometimes I create my own and place them inside the body where ever is most convenient or best design.

John

[grego]

I am glad that the thread actually did come back to the question of mounting the bodies. All that beautyfull "brasswork" shown in the above pictures has been created to take lexan bodies. Mounting hard bodies onto metal chassis I have found can be a very frustrating task, mainly because the hard bodies allready feature mounting postsand they are never quite where they are suposed to be. Also, whenever I thought I had the best place for a bolt or a screw, inveriably there is some plastic bits in the way.
I have, in my very limited experience of mounting chassis to harbodies, made up all sort of contraptions out of sheet brass, carbonfibre, wire and even velcro. Once I just used 2 blobs of blue-tack to attach the body to a beardog chassis. My best success was with glueing 2 or 3 wooden blocks inside the body in a posi where they could be "connected to the chassis" simply with a wood screw.
Every body-chassis-combo will give a different challenge which is what the scratch builder enjoys. Personally I can't be bothered.

If I have a hard body I stick with a plastic chassis and if I have lexan body I stick with metal. Especially considering that these days a top quality plastic chassis can be made to perform very well.

Never mind Nesta, I am saying all this knowing that it won't stop you doing what you like doing.
cheers

[Jairus]

Here is a 1/32 car with mounting posts. The chassis is a scratchbuilt and as you can see there are two mounting plates. One at the front was indeed a problem and a hole had to be drilled through the guide tongue to access the screw. The rear mounts are slotted so the chassis can be centered with the body before tightening the rear two screws. This chassis is an ISO with the hinge line at the motor bracket.



This one has a drop arm and the screw is accessed through the wire tongue. I like this setup better because It meant that I could get the body lower on the chassis.



P.S. the motor brackets were made by Rick at R-Geo. Set up for Hypoid gearing... I used a steel pinion and a brass ring gear and simply ran the motor to work-in the gears until they are smooth as silk.

[JBriggsK9]

For vac bodies I would use pins and pin tubing.. for all or my hard body cars I use side mounting brackets.. I was shown this methoid many years ago when I first got into the area club..
It allows the body to float free and really helps in the cars handling.. Here is a article I did up a while ago on how I do it..
http://jbriggsk9.tripod.com/id43.html

Chris

[Ramcatlarry]

My first resin F-1 Rail Racer use a single button snap to mount the body - epoxied right to the magnet on the motor.

[Jaak]

Hey Nesta,

Thanks for asking these questions as they answer as good as all my 1:32 hard body 'how to do' questions.
Been away for a while but will be playing around more here in your backyard.

Lot's of replies here i see.


Cheers mate,
Jaak

[slotbaker]

Hi Nesta,
I've got a small bracket that suits small 1/32 stuff that was made as a replacement for the Monogram GP cars to adapt the Plafit Fox motor.
Not brass, unfortunately, but in 304grade stainless steel, which is still easy to solder to.


It comes with bearing holes for either std Mono "D" oilites, 1/4", or 3/16" oilites.

[68Caddy]

Post 1 and continuing to count, two more to go.

Jairus that's a sweet setup and a gorgeous chassis, I will save that pic for sure. Jake buddy glad to have you back and I'm glad that these gentleman answered both of our questions and don't be a stranger.
Slotbaker that's a sweet setup for tight build ups and thanks for sharing sure is a bracket for me stainless steel I guess I can hit the wall with that one.
I think I got some great feedback from all of you guys and it sure will help me out.
Looking forward to race Jail Door cars tomorrow at BPR and meet my friends, need all the practice to get better but I still having fun.

Take care

NestaHalf breed

BTW Chris great write up you did, it's saved thanks man.

[gascarnut]

I have only built a few 1/32 scale inline cars over the last few years, mostly because anglewinders or sidewinders work better and allow for a full length cockpit in the body.

But when I have built inlines, I have not used a bracket at all. most of the cars I have built have the motor soldered into the frame, and the rear axle in a set of tubes held in place with piano wire. The closest I have come to using a bracket was the VRAA Proxy race Ferrari 158 I built. It has a flat plate to mount the motor with screws, but the rest is the same bracket-less construction.

Take a look on my photo pages for examples.

[gascarnut]

And regarding body mounts - I have used pins quite often to mount hard bodies, mostly successfully, sometimes not. The trick is to give the pin some room to move, so the holes in the body need to be a little bigger than the pin.





Some of them have been rather more complex;

[stoo23]

Hey Dennis, Sweet looking Citroen !!

Is that second chassis the one I have seen somewhere for a Scaley Camaro body ?

I have seriously considered throwing a 1/32 car together,..That Camaro was Cool !!

Cheers

[gascarnut]

Stoo,

Yep that's the Camaro frame.

More pics here: Customer Cars

[68Caddy]

Post I
Sorry If I sound strange at times I been depressed, why I don't know?
First of all thanks for all the great pics from all of you, I saved it for future projects, right now I'm getting parts together.
Dennis love the cars you made in this scale and thank you, Chris thanks for that great article you wrote.
Question should I make my own guide tongue or is there any thing out there commercially for this scale?
I would really appreciated it, thanks for all your help.

Take care
Half Breed
Nesta

[gascarnut]

Question should I make my own guide tongue or is there any thing out there commercially for this scale?

That depends in which guide you want to use.

If you're using a raceway guide with a 3/16 shaft, then the Slick 7 steel tongue works well on 1/32 cars:



If you are using a TSRF guide, which is a good guide to use when you are running on plastic track, especially Scalex and Ninco, then you need to make a tongue from .062 brass and solder in the tube that comes with the guide. The Citroen Rally car frame has one of these.