I saw that on Patto's Place website that the bodies are made of "PETG". I think I read some somewhat disparaging comments about painting PETG(?). What kind of paint will work with PETG? Patto has such a variety of bodies that I can't help but think I'm going to buy a few from him someday.
PETG Compatible Paint?
Started by
Tex
, Oct 06 2006 01:39 PM
6 replies to this topic
#1
Tex
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Posted 06 October 2006 - 01:39 PM
Richard L. Hofer
Remember, two wrongs don't make a right... but three lefts do! Only you're a block over and a block behind.
Remember, two wrongs don't make a right... but three lefts do! Only you're a block over and a block behind.
#2
Slothead_132
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Posted 07 October 2006 - 11:57 AM
Hey Tex ! I have done a few of these bodies with pretty good results-but I am no expert by any means ! 
:spin:
Following pic is of a 1967 FordGT MarkIV-PETG body :arrow: I recently painted and decaled-The yellow is actually much brighter than the Pic shows-(Camera Flash)....
I use an Acrylic water based paint and have had good results with an Airbrush...
Most of the hard part is detailing the body with a black marking pen or fine brush-then decals are placed on the inside and coated with a clear coating also you must mask off any widows and headlights prior to painting -(I use MasterMask by Hobbico-a simple brush on liquid masking film) 8)
Also I would read the painting tips section on Pattos website before starting !
Pattos place has some Interesting bodies-Here is one of my favorites-Mad Max Ford Interceptor... :mrgreen:
:spin: Following pic is of a 1967 FordGT MarkIV-PETG body :arrow: I recently painted and decaled-The yellow is actually much brighter than the Pic shows-(Camera Flash)....
I use an Acrylic water based paint and have had good results with an Airbrush...
Most of the hard part is detailing the body with a black marking pen or fine brush-then decals are placed on the inside and coated with a clear coating also you must mask off any widows and headlights prior to painting -(I use MasterMask by Hobbico-a simple brush on liquid masking film) 8)
Also I would read the painting tips section on Pattos website before starting !
Pattos place has some Interesting bodies-Here is one of my favorites-Mad Max Ford Interceptor... :mrgreen:
#3
Tex
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Posted 07 October 2006 - 03:52 PM
Thanks for the info, Francis!
Richard L. Hofer
Remember, two wrongs don't make a right... but three lefts do! Only you're a block over and a block behind.
Remember, two wrongs don't make a right... but three lefts do! Only you're a block over and a block behind.
#4
GT40
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Posted 13 October 2006 - 04:27 PM
Tex,
Larry LS would have much to say on this subject. He pulls his own bodies of PETG and NEVER uses laquer on them. He usually uses the Parma Fascolor acrylics.
He's been kind enough to give me some really cool PETG bodies. I use Pactra laquer, and I can testify that if you put laquer on PETG too heavy - at least the first coat - it will weaken the body and it can shatter in a most spectacular way on impact.
Laquer etches Lexan bodies too, but apparently not to the same degree. If you can do what you want to do using the Fascolor, that's probably the safest.
Steve
Larry LS would have much to say on this subject. He pulls his own bodies of PETG and NEVER uses laquer on them. He usually uses the Parma Fascolor acrylics.
He's been kind enough to give me some really cool PETG bodies. I use Pactra laquer, and I can testify that if you put laquer on PETG too heavy - at least the first coat - it will weaken the body and it can shatter in a most spectacular way on impact.
Laquer etches Lexan bodies too, but apparently not to the same degree. If you can do what you want to do using the Fascolor, that's probably the safest.
Steve
Steve Walker
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#5
Horsepower
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Posted 13 October 2006 - 05:36 PM
Slothead- Is that the 72 Fd Flcon GTHO Phase III or the 77Falcon GT? :?:
Gary Stelter
My life fades, the vison dims. All that remains are memories... from The Road Warrior
My life fades, the vison dims. All that remains are memories... from The Road Warrior
#6
dc-65x
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Posted 13 October 2006 - 05:56 PM
I hesitate to say this for fear of extreme flamage :shock: but I use Testor's model paint on PTEG and butyrate bodies. I learned about using it from Steve Daro. Testor's has changed since the 1960's when it would flake off clear bodies.
I have, unfortunately, tested this paint with a wall shot to the nose of a Lancer 3 Liter F1 vintage butyrate body. The nose cracked and 99.9 percent of the paint remained on the body.
I scuff up the inside of the body with a ScotchBrite pad and wash the body with Dawn dish washing liquid. The flat colors are much more opaque and dry faster than the gloss colors. Metalic colors require a back up of flat white, gold or silver.
For heavy racing you're probably better off with the Parma paint but the Testor's is an alternative I thought I'd share.
Zip up flame suit and prepare to "stop, drop and roll" :mrgreen:
I have, unfortunately, tested this paint with a wall shot to the nose of a Lancer 3 Liter F1 vintage butyrate body. The nose cracked and 99.9 percent of the paint remained on the body.
I scuff up the inside of the body with a ScotchBrite pad and wash the body with Dawn dish washing liquid. The flat colors are much more opaque and dry faster than the gloss colors. Metalic colors require a back up of flat white, gold or silver.
For heavy racing you're probably better off with the Parma paint but the Testor's is an alternative I thought I'd share.
Zip up flame suit and prepare to "stop, drop and roll" :mrgreen:
Rick Thigpen
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#7
TSR
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Posted 13 October 2006 - 07:46 PM
Flamage is STRICTLY VERBOTEN HERE, Mein Herr. We DO authorize konstruktiv kriticism...I hesitate to say this for fear of extreme flamage...
I don't see anything wrong using model paint on PETG with some preparation such as light sanding...
Herr Dikktatooor...
Philippe de Lespinay
