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Slip-on/off motor clips


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#1 Mike Steube

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Posted 19 May 2009 - 06:02 PM

Start with some 3/32" copper or brass tubing and some tools. The little piece of wire is .032" bent in a tight U. I shaved a few thou. off of the width of the little wire with the dremel to get the correct width inside the clip. You'll figure that out easy enough. Use a small, worn out dremel disk.
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First step is to make the horizontal cut half way thru the tubing. Make the cut at approximately the length you want your clip end.
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Next, insert the little wire and crimp the tubing down onto the wire very tightly. Use a mini vise or pliers.
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Next, cut the lengthwise slot to narrow the width of the clip end.
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Next, insert your little wire and squeeze the clip making it narrower. Take an old motor and clean the solder off the electical tabs. Now comes the fun. Check the fit of the clip on the motor tabs. It needs to be tight enough that when you pull them off there is alot of resistance. Remove the little wire. Use your pliers lightly to adjust the clips tighter if necessary. You can use the exacto knife to open the clips up when you get them too tight.
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When your happy cut the clip off of the tubing.
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#2 TSR

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Posted 19 May 2009 - 06:07 PM

That's too cool! Mine are simpler, but I will try yours. :)

#3 Jairus

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Posted 19 May 2009 - 06:44 PM

I like it! Nice idea on that wire-mandrel thing... :)

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#4 idare2bdul

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Posted 19 May 2009 - 07:34 PM

Given the fact we don't change motors it still seems like a solution in search of a problem. A light touch with a soldering iron works fine. Mike's solution does look better than the commercially available ones.
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#5 Jairus

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Posted 19 May 2009 - 07:37 PM

What commerically available ones mike? Can you buy some for me please? Because my searching of Norvac, RadioShack and talk back heart attack turned up nothing that small!

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#6 TSR

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Posted 19 May 2009 - 07:47 PM

So now we don't change motors? :)
Funny, I do change motors between racing weekends and sometimes DURING racing weekends: my handout motor goes from my F1 car then to the lightweight Can-Am chassis for the King to the heavy pile I use for the Kingleman, then to the even heavier pile I use on the flat track. And each 3 months, a new handout motor does the circuit again. Each car is equipped with its own set of lead wires, and the motor never gets heat from solder on its terminals. So the brush holders don't do the twist dance... I LOVE clips.
But hey, to each his own. ;)
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#7 Mike Steube

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Posted 19 May 2009 - 08:26 PM

You notice I did say slip on and OFF. :laugh2: I try to make sure I adjust the tension if it remotely feels light. They are so handy that they are worth the extra check on the race check list. It's best if you make sure the wire can't be pulled on by the guide. I've tried putting tape across both lead wires at the wire side of the clips. Basicly making it that both leads need to be pulled off at the same time. I feel this requires more effort to pull the wires off the motor. I've had no problem with slip on clips as long as I pay attention to the tension. Was that a song in the 60's? Yeah, Pay attention to the tension.
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#8 Gator Bob

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Posted 20 May 2014 - 07:36 PM

Or just buy the 'right ones' for a dollar. :o


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                            Bob Israelite

#9 Bill from NH

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Posted 20 May 2014 - 09:07 PM

Five tears ago, when Steube was around, nobody was selling the 'right ones' at any price. I'm still cheap, I'll make my own. :laugh2:


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#10 Gator Bob

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Posted 11 October 2017 - 05:41 PM

Five tears ago, when Steube was around, nobody was selling the 'right ones' at any price. I'm still cheap, I'll make my own. :laugh2:

 

Bill,

Can you post a picture of the ones you make? Same method as above?

 

The commercial ones for FK motors at $1 ea., are not new. They have been around for a long time but only introduced to slot cars back in 2011.

 

There are direct fit styles for FK, ProSlot, Hawk and even Deathstar.

 

Repeatability ... and I couldn't make one in 6 minutes if I was paid $10.00 per hour. I might be cheaper....lol. 


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                            Bob Israelite

#11 Gator Bob

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Posted 11 October 2017 - 05:46 PM

You notice I did say slip on and OFF. :laugh2: I try to make sure I adjust the tension if it remotely feels light. They are so handy that they are worth the extra check on the race check list. It's best if you make sure the wire can't be pulled on by the guide. I've tried putting tape across both lead wires at the wire side of the clips. Basicly making it that both leads need to be pulled off at the same time. I feel this requires more effort to pull the wires off the motor. I've had no problem with slip on clips as long as I pay attention to the tension. Was that a song in the 60's? Yeah, Pay attention to the tension.

 

  :laugh2:  :good: Or....

https://www.youtube....h?v=AULOC--qUOI


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                            Bob Israelite

#12 Richard G With

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Posted 11 October 2017 - 07:30 PM

But still the question: where can I buy the commercial ones for ProSlot and RetroHawk? I've tried Swiss, any other sources?

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#13 Bill from NH

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Posted 11 October 2017 - 07:53 PM

I thought Bryan Warmack, at BPR, also got some, but maybe he bought them from Mike Swiss.

 

 

Bob, I just taught myself to solder faster! :laugh2:  I did buy some male & female parts at RS make some "Pablo Connectors" but never put them on a  car.


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#14 MSwiss

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Posted 11 October 2017 - 08:03 PM

On the ones for the Retro Hawk, my current vendor keeps sending me the wrong item, and with getting my other items out to Eagle and Eri, along with the Sano, I have been too busy to get around to sending them a sample, to match them up correctly.

 

On the ProSlot ones, I have a lifetime supply, but to be honest, when I test fitted them recently, IMO, they aren't the greatest.

 

They fit pretty nicely on the rear buss bar, but they rock, on the front one.


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#15 Gator Bob

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Posted 23 October 2017 - 04:11 PM

I never had an issue with the right angle ProSlot connectors. A light 'tinning' of the front tab might help.

 

Found these AMP brand terminals and bought a spool of 1000 +/- years ago. These were discontinued in about 1981.

 

They work straight on or can be made to fit anglewinders.

 

The most important use for terminals in slot cars is on the FK. Zero heat to the brush spring and faster motor swaps.

 

On the rest it's more of adding an additional heat sink with out breaking 'the rules'.  Outstanding on heavy cars like Deathstar powered FCR cars or hardbodies.

.

 

Connectors for Hawk and Hawk6.png Connectors for Parma 2.png

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Connectors for Parma 1.png

 

 

 

 

 

 


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                            Bob Israelite





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