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The "hot oil" for slot cars?


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#1 Marty Stanley

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Posted 12 August 2009 - 12:55 PM

Ron,

Hey I am fully a believer in listening to people that have done things for a long time.

In a recent thread you talked about the elixir you made to keep motors oiled during break-in. The magic formula was Lucas Oil Treatment and Mobil 1 5W50 Synthetic Motor oil.

Is this the Lucas Oil Treatment:

Posted Image

Also, where were you able to find the Mobil 1 5W50 Synthetic oil? I only see it listed as a Europe only application.
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#2 Cheater

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Posted 12 August 2009 - 01:20 PM

Marty,

Ron's not the only guy using Mobil 1 for slot cars. But he's right about how lousy most of the oils sold through slot car distribution are.

I've been using Mobil 1 with about 20-30% Tufoil added to it for a number of years. The viscosity has varied some, but the current batch is mixed with 0W20 Mobil 1.

BTW, I think Ron probably just disremembered the specific viscosity of Mobil 1 he's been using. 15W50 is the usual hi-vis M1 sold in the US. There are a couple of 5Ws - 5W20 and 5W30.

Gregory Wells

Never forget that first place goes to the racer with the MOST laps, not the racer with the FASTEST lap


#3 Marty Stanley

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Posted 12 August 2009 - 01:22 PM

Greg,

How available is it?

Auto Zone, Advanced Auto, NAPA all carry it?
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#4 Ron Hershman

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Posted 12 August 2009 - 01:26 PM

I get my Mobil 1 at Walmart. LOL.

I use the Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Stablizer. It mixes fine with synthetic oils. I get this at Walmart as well.

#5 Cheater

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Posted 12 August 2009 - 01:32 PM

Marty,

I haven't bought a bottle of Tufoil for several years, but yeah, I found it at one of the local auto parts stores. Tufoil has a vendor locator on their website.

Gregory Wells

Never forget that first place goes to the racer with the MOST laps, not the racer with the FASTEST lap


#6 Ron Hershman

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Posted 12 August 2009 - 01:38 PM

Greg,

Any shaft problems to report?

Another side note... I believe that Amsoil might even be a better oil than Mobil 1 based on many test results over the years and personal experience 20 or so years ago with real race cars.

Amsoil sells for about 8 to 10 bucks a quart. We used to have a Amsoil dist close by back in the day and not sure if there are any close by or not. They have a website.

#7 Cheater

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Posted 12 August 2009 - 01:54 PM

Ron,

Once I began using Mobil 1 based oil mixtures, my shaft wear problems went away.

The Amsoil syn is a pretty good oil by all reports, but the best synthetic, according to the racing crowd, is Redline.

Gregory Wells

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#8 The Bugman

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Posted 12 August 2009 - 01:57 PM

Ron H.,

It's a hoot that you mentioned Amsoil, I thought I was the only one using it... But I use their Amsoil MP, kinda like WD40 but on steroids. It's made a helluva difference...

I have a good friend thats an Amsoil distributor. I buy a spray can for $7 and its about ten bottles of regular slot oil (at $5-6 a bottle). Quite a savings, eh... You can also use it for the comm, too (just a drop or two)... wait til you hear the diff in RPMs when you put a drop on it...

But it's my secret, so don't tell anyone else OK... :rolleyes: :laugh2: :shok:
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#9 The Bugman

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Posted 12 August 2009 - 02:02 PM

Greg,

I've been using Amsoil synthetic in my regular truck and my old VWs for years. It's the best out there, even better than Redline. I've got the stats to prove it on my stuff. I use all Amsoil products in my vehicles, trans fluid, rear end oil, gas treatment (improved my mileage 5% per tankful of gas) and cleans the injectors excellent...

Amsoil all the way for me, guys...
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#10 Rhett

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Posted 12 August 2009 - 02:28 PM

I've had good results with Royal Purple 5W20, but would like to try some MOTUL 0W.
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#11 Rick

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Posted 12 August 2009 - 03:57 PM

I was going to mention Royal Purple. I am not sure its really better to be honest as I had a good bud that raced a SS/JA Dart and if he would drain out the regular racing oil and put in Royal Purple, the next pass would pick up 5-100ths, next pass after that, it went back to std? He used this to try and bump to the other side of the ladder in some cases. It was the fastest SS/JA Mopar in the country.

I used to use my R-Geo Super Green Braid Juce for all my oiling, comm drops, and braid conditioner. I never had shaft problems and oilites lasted a long time...
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#12 Jerry Ward

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Posted 12 August 2009 - 04:08 PM

I have a old bottle of Dura-Lube and it works fine. Anyone ever use it or Slick 7?

Jerry :)
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#13 Lucky Me

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Posted 12 August 2009 - 04:23 PM

I mixed up some 75W140 synthetic gear oil mixed 3:1 with STP oil treatment for motor bushings, works great, only takes a dab. I use Trinity Royal oil on everything else.
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#14 Hworth08

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Posted 12 August 2009 - 05:24 PM

... gas treatment (improved my mileage 5% per tankful of gas) and

5% per tankful is good! After about 16 fillups you should have gasoline flowing out the fill pipe :) Sorry!

It's probably too thick but we used mix motorcycle chain oil with 40W oil to use on combine chains. That's about as dusty as it gets but the chains would stay clean and oiled for ten hours.
Don Hollingsworth

#15 The Bugman

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Posted 12 August 2009 - 08:37 PM

actually 5% aint that much,at 20mpg,its only 1 extra mile per,,,,so with my 20 gal tank,,,,an extra 20 miles,like saving 1 gallon per tankful, but i'll take anything extra,,,,wouldnt you?
but thats not the subject,is it??,,,,,lol
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#16 Mopar Rob

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Posted 12 August 2009 - 09:12 PM

What needs oil on a slotcar? I don't think I have ever put oil on a Facon VII. 3 races on the oilites without any oil, because I left it on my work bench. Think oil is over rated?
Rob Hanson

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#17 TSR

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Posted 12 August 2009 - 09:32 PM

Crisco is IT!!!! :laugh2:

#18 Marty Stanley

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Posted 12 August 2009 - 10:00 PM

Regular or "Butter Flavored?"
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#19 Cap Henry

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Posted 12 August 2009 - 11:25 PM

I use the Red Rocket oil sold by Joe Ligouri or Trinity Royal oil on most stuff and it does a really nice job. I prefer Joe's stuff, lower price and better product, IMO.

As a side note learned from the big car this year about Amsoil. Amzoil is not a oil that penetrates very well. It basically just sits on the surface and doesn't get into the bearing/bushing. I was using Amsoil in my 410cid race motor and in the rear ends and have switched to Brad Penn/Valvoline VR1 for motors and Joe Gibbs for rear ends and bearings are lasting much longer. Plus overall temps were lower on dyno due to less friction obviously.

Hope this lil rant was maybe helpful to someone. LOL!

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#20 Phil Irvin

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Posted 12 August 2009 - 11:55 PM

:D

I went to the S7 axle bushings in the mid-'90s. I liked the way they felt... oh so smooth but a tad tight. The first set seized up in the fourth heat because they were tighter than any other bushings. They were smooooth till they seized and I liked them. I used toothpaste to open them up just a little and was able to get better life out of them at the expense of making them loose.

I called Rudy and talked to him and he was testing a pure synthetic from the space program and was liking it. Being an old NHRA gas racer, I liked Amsoil. I got a straight 5 wt. from the local dealer in Orlando, FL. He ordered one can on a regular order so I didn't have to pay shipping. Just had to wait a month. Reading Hot Rod and Popular Hotrodding. I saw the Prolong ads. It had Teflon in it. And was thin like the Amsoil. I mixed up a quart with the recomended amount of Prolong :wub: oil additive... And after 12 years I still have a 1/2 pint of oil left. Since using this concoction, I have NOT had a S7 bushing problem whereever I put one. People were having all sorts of problems in G12 motors... But NOT me. I am still running some of the axle bushings I put in in the '90s. I have not had a bushing problem in any sealed or any motor in years. I oil once every four heats on axles and can only bushing in a race.

The main reason that Teflon is not used in combustion motor oil is that around 600 degrees. It solidifies. Piston rings get hotter than that and then it acts as a grinding agent, ruining the motor. That's why they are not found in motor oil additives any more. If a slot motor bushings ever saw 600 deg. everything would be melted anyway so Teflon works on them. At this rate, I might have to buy another quart of oil and Prolong if they are still in business in two-three years. ;)

Phil I.

I mixed up some with Mobil 1 5W15 for a friend and he also never had bushing problems. :) If you check, you will find that there is not a true all-synthetic motor oil but a petroleum base oil with a lot of synthetic chemicals. Chris Radisich straightened me out on that a couple of years ago.

#21 Cheater

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Posted 13 August 2009 - 07:40 AM

FWIW, Phil, I also used the Prolong additive for a while before switching to Tufoil.

Gregory Wells

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#22 Marty Stanley

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Posted 13 August 2009 - 11:03 AM

Phil,

Could you be just a bit more specific on the version of "Prolong" that you are using?

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#23 Foamy

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Posted 13 August 2009 - 11:35 AM

. . .would like to try some MOTUL 0W.

I got a bottle of that a few years back. It still felt really heavy and thick. Oh yeah, that $35/litre price tag didn't help either. It worked bitchin' in the Legends Car motor though.

Testing on a Fantom dyno when I was doing the R/C thing, the best power found was Mobil synthetic mixed with Slick50.
Spent a day testing everything we could get, must have been 40 pulls on the dyno. This was in '95 or so...

For bearings I use a Castrol mil-spec bearing and gyro oil. I forget the number, but I had to get five gallons as a minimum purchase. The GRW bearing suppliers I talked to suggested that product.
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#24 Larry LS

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Posted 13 August 2009 - 11:49 AM

Ahh!!! All that talk about the various oils, etc. Just use Marvel Mystery oil, it works great. :wizard: :dance4: :clapping:

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#25 Ron Hershman

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Posted 13 August 2009 - 01:09 PM

For ball bearings... YES!!! For oilite bushings... a bit too thin, but it works well for a short time. ;)





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