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Sano III Tripod raffle car


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#51 Mopar Rob

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Posted 28 September 2009 - 06:01 PM

Great looking build! How much does this beauty weigh in at?



The Tripod car I built for Bill weighed in at 113 grams as a Ready To Race GTC with a TrueScale Lola body. Keep in mind that his car has an elaborately painted body, some body armor, aluminum front Proslot & rear wheels, Falcon motor and bass guide tongue / spacer.

Mine with with 2 Brass center rails and a Proslot motor weighed in at 107.1 grams without any guide spacers.


Keep in mind there are some subtle differences between Pablo's and my builds. It's good for reference.

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#52 MSwiss

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Posted 28 September 2009 - 07:18 PM

...... Proslot motor and bass guide tongue / spacer......

Sounds sort of fishy to me. :rolleyes:

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#53 Pablo

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Posted 28 September 2009 - 07:27 PM

:laugh2:
When the eight year old is trying to "help" with pushing the keys, it happens :D
I think the man means BRASS tongue.

Just be thankful he didn't leave out the "B" :roflmao:
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#54 Jeff Easterly

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Posted 28 September 2009 - 08:06 PM

Pablo....

Sano build.... :good: .... Great job....

Take care! :bye:


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#55 Mopar Rob

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Posted 28 September 2009 - 08:08 PM

Sounds sort of fishy to me. :rolleyes:



Bill called to tell me he had a Falcon since it was going to be a GTC. I'm too lazy to weigh a Falcon vs. Proslot. Anyone know the difference?
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#56 Rick

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Posted 28 September 2009 - 08:10 PM

about 2 grams..........
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#57 Mopar Rob

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Posted 28 September 2009 - 08:16 PM

OK, but which one is heavier?
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#58 Noose

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Posted 28 September 2009 - 08:20 PM

The Falcon and TSRs are heavier than the ProSlots

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#59 Mopar Rob

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Posted 01 October 2009 - 06:54 PM

Pablo's build Tripod arrived in the mail today. The car without a body, driver and pins weighs


102.6 grams


I'm guessing a complete car at around 109 grams?
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#60 Pablo

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Posted 27 July 2016 - 07:08 PM

Bill Worden made an extra set of parts for this raffle car, which was my gift for participating in the raffle donation to St. Jude's. 

A present from Rob Hanson and Bill W.  So I built a car of my own from them.

 

This old warhorse retro chassis was competitive back in 2009. But it's years overdue for either improvement, or the boneyard.

Your opinion, please - refurb, or, boneyard ?

 

The magnesium ball bearing front wheels were badly corroded 30 minutes after I installed them (despite my cleaning efforts).

They lasted one race.

 

Obviously the solid bite bar can be improved by new split bars.

 

The question is, is it worth it ? Took about 30 seconds to remove the front axle and bite bar:

 

IMG_2819.JPG


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#61 tonyp

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Posted 27 July 2016 - 07:19 PM

Sure.


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#62 Pablo

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Posted 27 July 2016 - 07:31 PM

Thanks, Tony.

 

Also, I agree with Mike Patterson, the bite bar was way too far forward. I'm embarrassed to see I tried to justify it in 2009 :sorry:

I can fix that. I have the Hakko 455 heated up, and plenty of Soder-Wick :)


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#63 John Streisguth

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Posted 27 July 2016 - 09:08 PM

Pablo, I use a couple of very similar chassis for all my racing these days. Definitely rebuild!!  I would stick with the rigid bite bar (.055), but moved rearward. And cut the front "wings" off the front section, that will reduce the weight a bit.  My very similar chassis has quite a few podium finishes on the hillclimb at Fast Tracks, even a TQ and was the lap record holder when the track was at Slot Racing Revival.


"Whatever..."

#64 Pablo

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Posted 28 July 2016 - 08:19 AM

Thanks for the encouragement, gentlemen :good:

John, how about this ?

 

IMG_2824.JPG


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#65 John Streisguth

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Posted 28 July 2016 - 11:04 AM

That's works if you don't want to trim the wire for the axle uprights.  If you can, I would do that and then straight across to the guide tongue.  

 

I would also take off the "flag" behind the front wheels, unless you have the mind to put a pan downstop there (I do that on some of my chassis, seems to make a difference but you have to keep an eye on the brass and the stop to make sure they aren't tweaked).

 

My $0.02  LOL


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#66 Pablo

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Posted 28 July 2016 - 01:11 PM

Thanks John, that makes sense :good: 

 

But....a decision has been made to keep the parts as they were built for historical reasons.

So it will simply get a new front axle, individual bite bars on each side placed further rearward, and a tumble.

Then to a new home in Illinois  :) 


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#67 John Streisguth

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Posted 28 July 2016 - 01:45 PM

I can understand that.  

 

For what it's worth, individual bite bars don't work for me.  The one chassis that had it, a Samson Vee-pod, I took them off and put a regular floating bite bar in, the chassis worked much much better


"Whatever..."

#68 Pablo

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Posted 28 July 2016 - 01:57 PM

Floating bite bar would be fine, all I want is for the rails not be connected in that area. That's probably what I'll do. Thanks again.


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#69 Noose

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Posted 28 July 2016 - 02:28 PM

Mr. Edsel goes with no bite bars.


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#70 John Streisguth

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Posted 28 July 2016 - 03:59 PM

I think it really comes down to individual preference.  I like mine solid.  


"Whatever..."

#71 Dominator

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Posted 28 July 2016 - 05:18 PM

I too have been steering away from bite bars. It frees up the pans to work more independently of the main rails.
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#72 Pablo

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Posted 28 July 2016 - 08:02 PM

Let me repeat how much I appreciate all your input. I don't disagree with any of it :victory:

But, the history and sentimentality of this chassis have won my head and heart.

 

It was originally designed for:

-easy in-and-out replacement of a fresh front axle/wheel assembly

-easy bite bar (or whatever you want to call it) modification

 

And that's what I've decided to do. The Bill Worden parts will remain stock.

 

New pan management wire bits are tinned, trimmed, and ready to go.

New length of 3/32" axle wire checked for relative straightness before tinning

 

IMG_2851.JPG

 


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#73 Pablo

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Posted 30 July 2016 - 07:26 PM

The spirit of this chassis was a humanitarian gesture from Rob Hanson and Bill Worden that began in 2009.

The original car was raffled off and the proceeds went to St. Judes Children's Hospital.

 

The beauty of perfect 90 degree uprights is, a new length of 3/32" tinned piano wire drops right in place.

Ain't braggin', just sayin'. RGeo jig wheels ensure perfect height. Easy day :)

 

IMG_2856.JPG

 

Rob, if you are out there reading the mail, trim the fronts to .768 and the nose will clear about 18 thou :good:

 

 


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#74 Pablo

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Posted 14 August 2016 - 07:22 AM

Upgrades and tumbling complete. Ready to return to the state of it's birth in Illinois :)

 

IMG_2893.JPG

 

IMG_2898.JPG

 

IMG_2904.JPG


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