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#101 Bill from NH

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Posted 15 October 2009 - 07:52 PM

Doug, if you still got 10' of that Rat Shack 22, send it to PDL. It's easier for him to wind. :laugh2:

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#102 Champion 507

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Posted 15 October 2009 - 10:02 PM

Thanks Barney and John. It's a little easier working with these newer motors because if you mess something up, it's no big deal. At times some people around the local track usually have a motor or two that they no longer want and sometimes they'll just give them to you or sell them cheap. If you mess up a vintage part sometimes it can be costly to repair or replace.

In the automotive hobby they call it a restomod where someone takes a car (usually made in the 1960's) and updates it with a more modern engine, transmission and chassis components but the body still retains most of the outside stock appearance. We can do that with our vintage motors where we grab some newer parts such as brush hoods, magnets, etc. from current motors and update old Mabuchi stuff. You get the outside appearance of an old vintage motor but now it has all the performance and endurance of a modern mill. I always liked that word "mill".
Doug Azary
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#103 Hworth08

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Posted 16 October 2009 - 10:40 AM

Reading Doug's post about his wire choices I started wondering if there was ever a pattern or reason why a winder would change wire gage and number of turns.

At what point would 60 turns of 29 perform better than 50 t. of 30 and so forth. Of course a lot of factors are in play but I wonder if anyone remembers their theories? :)
Don Hollingsworth

#104 Champion 507

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Posted 16 October 2009 - 11:39 AM

Don,

While I know a little tiny bit about motor theory I will attempt to convey my thought process on why I chose a particular wind. Again, I wish I had the electromechanical expertise that some people have like Ron Hershman, Dan from ProSlot, Rudy from Slick 7 and MANY others but I don't. I always try to do the best with what I have until I learn something new or I obtain better tools or supplies.

Don, you're prophetic. :o My next motor will have 60 turns of #29 on it. Without giving that one away yet I will explain why I chose the wind in that post. As far as 50 turns of #30, here goes: Modern stock 16D's come from the factory with 70 turns of #30. Since I was going to make a drag motor out of this, I wanted a lighter weight armature that would spin up faster. I figured 20 less turns per pole would be less weight and less electrical resistance which should mean higher rpm. In addition, passes on a drag strip last about a second. Heat shouldn't be a factor because it's not being run lap after lap as it would be on a road course. On the short stack arm where I put 60 turns of #30 here was my thought: Without doing any calculating or measuring, I figured putting 60 turns of #30 on a shorter stack might almost be the same amount of wire as 50 turns would be on a long stack. Plus I did it for old times' sake. In 1965 Mura, Lenz and French put 60 turns of #30 on their early rewind versions of the Russkit 23 and that's why I put that wind on this arm.
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#105 Prof. Fate

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Posted 16 October 2009 - 01:10 PM

Hi

The one can with the "X" strap is the trinity/slotworks that came out in the early 90s. When it came out, on saturday, on the local track, some of us were renting time on saturday and having "retro" races. Anyway, as our surviving period motors were maintanence nightmares, we looked for a solution. What my equipment told me was that the Trinity super 16d with its 28 wind was within a tiny percent the SAME as the 68/69 surviving pro motors we had in our cars. a little milder on the wind but that would reduce keeping them running.

But the weight, magnets and so on were right there. So, we agreed to use THOSE trinity and parma supers as our motor for our races which were getting more and more agressive.

Later, my first time at BP for a convention, I was playing with one of the cars and Mike Steube was watching and started talking about "the day". I handed him the car, my F1, and he pulled the trigger.....stopped and said "I had forgotten how much power we used to run in them!"...grinning and started cracking off hot laps with it!

Faster than my "hot" laps, of course.

When we were first talking about retro, I said I favored those D can super 16ds because, mechanically, they were "work alikes" for the motors of the day.

Anyway, both came with several different arms. There were actually two arms with 30s winds, one was the long stack you had, and "parma rules" legal, and a shorter arm much like your re-build. The long was usually72/30, the short usually 65/30. THEN, if it had green coating on the stack and balencing, the wind was 55/28(I think!).

The magnets measured the same as my arcos. But the thing is that the bushings wear out in 3 or 4 hours of track time, but are still replaceable!

Fate
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#106 Champion 507

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Posted 17 October 2009 - 04:00 PM

Ok, we're really gonna have some "phun" now!

I've been planning to do this motor for some time now. So it was time to "git 'er done". A duplicate or reproduction means basically a carbon copy of something. A replica means you get the looks and "flavor" of something but it is not a carbon copy. Today we're going to make a replica of a Champion 507 endbell drive. Here's what we're starting with: A Revell SP80 can, NOS brushes and springs, an almost NOS Mabuchi endbell, and a reproduction 507 label. During the build the NOS French magnets weren't working out so I replaced them with a set of 1968 Mabuchi 16D magnets. They worked out great and are nice and strong. The armature started out in this world inside a Parma Deathstar. After it ran it's life out, I stripped all the wire off, cleaned it up with a wire brush chucked in a Dremel, punched the shaft thru to made an endbell drive out of it, glued on red Mabuchi fiber insulators and added an NOS 22 CCW Tradeship comm. There were three reasons I chose the Revell can; (1) the can was in great shape, (2) it had only been disassembled once so the endbell retaining tabs should be good enough to hold it all together when it gets finished and (3) the silver paint is easy to strip and repainting it should be a breeze.

DSCF3434.JPG


Since we're not using the stock Mabuchi magnets the 2 little retainers in the bottom of the can needed to be flattened out. Not wanting to leave marks in the can from the flattening process, I've modified a set of cheap pliers and ground off the grooves at the end of the jaws.

DSCF3440.JPG


After a couple of good hard squeezes the tabs are flattened out with no tooling marks even in the paint!

DSCF3441.JPG DSCF3442.JPG


Now it was time to strip the paint. A scotchbrite type wheel in a Dremel made pretty quick work of this.

DSCF3443.JPG


Since I was only making a replica I thought my can of Krylon Ford engine blue would work just fine...but nooooo. I couldn't find it. I gave up looking for it and went to a Wal Mart less than 2 miles away. Upon arrival in the paint section I saw this can of Krylon navy blue and thought "wow, this is awfully close to Hawk/Champion blue...and it was"!!! Two worlds apart and over 40 years later these two blues are virtually identical. An original 507 is in front while the newly repainted one is next to the can. You can't get much closer than that.

DSCF3464.JPG


Here's everything ready to go back together. Yes, Don Hollingsworth, I chose 60 turns of #29 wire for this one and here's why: This wire is very similar in color to what Champion used on some of their 507's. Since this armature has a thin web there is room for more wire to be wound. 50 turns of #29 would make a great arm but I was wanting to play it a little conservative because the motor was going to have a nice minty original endbell and I didn't want to mess it up with a hotter wind, so I chose 60 turns. I don't have a bench grinder so I used a sanding drum chucked in a Dremel to remove the unwanted material necessary to balance the arm and it didn't take much at all.

DSCF3513.JPG


It only pulls .8 of an amp at 7 volts and sounds healthy and smooth.

DSCF3514.JPG


The labels for these early Champions were all made out of foil as evidenced by this 503.

DSCF3515.JPG


Since I don't have any foil labels I had to use a paper label instead. But I'm only making a replica not a duplicate. "She's real heaven my 507"

DSCF3560.JPG DSCF3586.JPG DSCF3591.JPG


Thanks for viewing.

See you next time...same bat time...same bat channel.
Doug Azary
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#107 havlicek

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Posted 17 October 2009 - 06:36 PM

Hi Doug,

Another handsome motor! I think you're gonna need a signature for these things...maybe a "Motorshop" sticker or something. The Parma arms are a great choice for these motors and I really like the paint. It looks sharp with the white endbell :)

-john
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#108 Jeff Easterly

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Posted 17 October 2009 - 06:58 PM

Doug...

VERY sano-looking motor....

I'm partial to the 65T of #30... plenty of "pep", but real looow on heat, for vintage endbells...

Great job... I agree w/ John, you need a "rebuilt by" sticker...

Take care...


Jeff Easterly :good:

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#109 Hworth08

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Posted 18 October 2009 - 09:58 AM

Krylon should rename their paint to Hawk Blue. That shade is near exact for the 507 motors that Champion made from the left-over Hawk motors!

Those stack ground arms are pretty in a way. Wonder how many times Champion nicked the wire while grinding them? :)

I checked the Auto World catalogue again and 60 turns of 30 is what they show as a 3 volt arm so 60 of 29 is right in the ball park.
Don Hollingsworth

#110 Horsepower

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Posted 18 October 2009 - 01:57 PM

Doug, that is a motor I can LOVE! That's really in the spirit of vintage when you can basically duplicate a motor of the 60's with all replacement parts and paint. Nice job! :ok: :D
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#111 Champion 507

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Posted 18 October 2009 - 02:16 PM

John, Jeff, Don and Gary,

Thank you all for your comments. Don, I've also wondered if the balancing guys at Champion got a little too close to the windings with the bench grinder. Years ago when all I had was a flat file, I nicked a few myself. I also had a hand crank drill and a few times I tried to drill balance one, my bit went sliding off into the windings. For me, filing was the lesser of 2 evils.
Doug Azary
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#112 Champion 507

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Posted 23 October 2009 - 08:03 AM

After weighing and considering many things I have decided to close Motorshop.

To all of you who posted comments and questions I say a big "THANK YOU".

I hope all your building/racing goals meet with much success.

As for now, Motorshop is officially closed.

closed.jpg
Doug Azary
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#113 don.siegel

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Posted 23 October 2009 - 08:30 AM

Very sorry to hear that Doug - I was really enjoying this thread!

Don

#114 havlicek

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Posted 23 October 2009 - 09:25 AM

!? Me too.

-john
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#115 dc-65x

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Posted 23 October 2009 - 02:25 PM

Doug,

I'm sorry to see the thread end too but I'm sure you have good reasons. You certainly ended on a high point as that's a beautiful motor :wub: .

Rick

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#116 slotbaker

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Posted 23 October 2009 - 02:27 PM

As for now, Motorshop is officially closed.

Bummer.
:o :(

Steve King


#117 Mark Johnson

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Posted 01 November 2009 - 09:02 PM

I will miss this

#118 munter

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Posted 02 November 2009 - 12:09 AM

I was waiting for Doug to work his magic on a C can motor.

Maybe this is an opening for others to show what they have done in the motor rebuild,blueprint,rewind or modifications department??

I have enjoyed reading the other threads by John H about motor work,who else is out here doing stuff?

regards

John Warren
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#119 wilbor56

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Posted 02 November 2009 - 10:09 AM

:dash2: :dash2: :dash2: :dash2: :dash2: :dash2: no now im not going to have anything to read in the morning.
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#120 havlicek

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Posted 02 November 2009 - 03:01 PM

I have enjoyed reading the other threads by John H about motor work,who else is out here doing stuff?


Thanks John, but if you're into motor work all you have to do is open any of Rock T's threads and enjoy! While he does favor the classic Mura motors (understandably since they're the pinnacle), he's probably done them all at this point. Rick doesn't just recondition motors, he'll often re-engineer them to ...or even beyond what the pros of the period were doing and using vintage arms to be sure that they run as they did back then. Pretty crazy-cool!

-john
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#121 Champion 507

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Posted 02 November 2009 - 07:46 PM

Hey guys,

I've had to back away from this due to time.

Maybe after the first of the year I can flip the sign over to "open".

I've read your comments and I appreciate every one of them!
Doug Azary
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#122 slotbaker

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Posted 02 November 2009 - 08:50 PM

Ripper! Looking forward to some happy new year phun.
:)

Steve King


#123 Phil Irvin

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Posted 03 November 2009 - 12:09 AM

Being from the 60s....I will miss this one

HOPE TO MSEE YA NEXT YEAR
PHIL I.

#124 Champion 507

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Posted 21 November 2009 - 03:07 AM

Guys,
In addition to graffiti on the wall, there is some handwriting there also...and for me, it's not good news for slot cars or Motorshop.

I just found out I am going to be involved with a project that may last a year and will consume most if not all of the time I wanted to devote to slot cars. I just found out about it this week. This is not what I had hoped for the new year but it has to be done.

I was really looking forward to flipping the sign over to "open" on Motorshop because of the nice comments some of you have posted here.

I'll still read and watch what the experts are doing here but I won't have anything to add.

I hope all of you have a wonderful and safe holiday season! I will be back as soon as I can.
Doug Azary
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#125 Pablo

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Posted 23 November 2009 - 05:07 PM

You can still keyboard race ! :D
Paul Wolcott

#126 Victor Poulin

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Posted 23 November 2009 - 05:27 PM

Doug

Very sorry to hear this. You have shown me some great tricks. Although I cant wind arms myself, I can apply all the other little tricks you have taken the time to show us :)
I have enjoyed this thred and I hope maybe someone else will step up and take the helm.

Thank you
Alright, who cut the cheese?

#127 Kim Lander

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Posted 23 November 2009 - 10:48 PM

Doug,
I was really enjoying this , hope you can find time to open shop again , I love the old stuff.
Kim

#128 Champion 507

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Posted 12 January 2011 - 02:25 PM

Guys,

Don't get your hopes up yet...MotorShop is still closed, but I came across a couple of things that might be beneficial to your motor building.

Model train guys will recognize the name "NorthWest Short Line" as a long time quality manufacturer of precision tools and parts for the model train hobbyist based right here in the good old U.S. of A. However, they make a number of items that will crossover into our world of slot cars.

The first item I found is 2 mm. shafting part # 2020-4. It's 2 - 6" long pieces of .0787" steel that are accurate to .0002" of perfection. Ideal for motor shaft replacement. They also make .091" (2.4mm) shafting that will work in 36-D motors. The price ia a very reasonable $2.95 per pkg. You should be able to get at least 4 motors worth per package.

The next item is miniature metric screws. They carry all sizes and lengths of metric screws or standard screws that will replace any lost or bad screws from any endbell ever made.

Their website is: www.nwsl.com. They also carry drills, taps, oillite bushings and a bizillion other goodies. Check 'em out!
Doug Azary
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#129 Champion 507

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Posted 09 March 2011 - 07:48 PM

TA-DAH!!! I'M BAAAACK...

The place is kinda dusty and it looks like some small varmits have been in here but nothing that can't be cleaned up with a little soap and water from a 100psi pressure wash gun.Posted Image

Just a quick post here. These new Hawk 6's are the coolest thing to come along in a long time (in my opinion). So with all the tweaking that's been going on lately, I had to jump in too. You are looking at a rewound Hawk 6 with a Bill Bugenis comm, Champion blue springs and shunts. This baby has 20 turns of #24 Belden heavy Polythermaleze wire on it. I have a multiple syllable one word to describe it...sc-sc-sc-scary! I hope it will go 55ft on 16 volts and still stay within the confines of the slot car track.Posted ImagePosted Image. With light springs on it, it pulled 5 amps at 3 volts. With the blue ones on there my 5 amp ampmeter pegs full scale. All I did was razor blade balance it but it is velvety smooth. It should be a real gear stripper tire ripper.

DSCF4749.JPG
Doug Azary
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#130 Victor Poulin

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Posted 09 March 2011 - 08:07 PM

Looks awesome Doug !!! Told you that you would go nuts with these things lol.
Did you use the stock brushes? or did you swap them out.

Good to see you back my friend :)

PS- Those parts will go out to you tomorrow ;)

Vic
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#131 Champion 507

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Posted 09 March 2011 - 09:18 PM

Thanks, Vic.

Stock brushes, Don't have any new Big Foots or Gold Dust. They seem to be okay but it would be interesting to see current readings with the better quality brushes.

I also failed to mention I centered the arm, checked the alignment of the brush hoods, and motor bushings and, tied the comm. I had to dink with one brush hood for a minute but otherwise the endbell was good to go.
Doug Azary
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#132 havlicek

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Posted 10 March 2011 - 06:33 AM

Looks nice Doug :) They ARE cool little motors and just begging to be ripped apart and worked on, so I hope more people do just that. The end-bell seems like a nice upgrade from the original design, but (because of space limits) makes using short brushes a necessity and that's something of a bother...but minor in the scheme of things.

Stock brushes, Don't have any new Big Foots or Gold Dust. They seem to be okay but it would be interesting to see current readings with the better quality brushes.


Honestly, they're probably just as good. I've never done any "scientific testing" on brushes, but they all seem pretty much the same to me :unsure: I did once have a motor perform noticeably better with a set of old Mabuchi 36D brushes than it did with either GD or BF brushes :blink: , but I chalked that up to something I must have done. The only thing I think might be significant is that one or the other might wear better...but cause a com to wear a little faster if the material is harder. I don't know about that though.

A #24 wind in any motor is getting close to WMD territory, even for a drag motor (I've got some #23 wire that I'm just waiting for someone to ask me to wind :shok: ). The way I see it, people used #24 arms in old ceramic setups that probably didn't gauss much higher than those in the Hawk. The Bugenis coms seem to be as good or better than anything I've tried, so that was a very good choice! To me, what you've done here is exactly what a modern-day equivalent to what we did as kids with (and to!) the old motors. The only difference is that now, we have MUCH better motors to use for rewinding, and cheaper too! While there are other modern motors that are great for modding and rewinding (the SCX motors, the F7/S7/TSR motors for example), the little Hawks come ready to go with a real end bell and everything! Nice work!

-john
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#133 Victor Poulin

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Posted 10 March 2011 - 10:16 AM

I like the new endbells to but I find their a bit sloppy. However with that said, they take very little work to adjust / blueprint. Before they came out with the new endbell, I was building my own using Mura hardware and they worked really well but took alot of time to build.

So far with the new endbells I havent had to cut the brushes for clearance, as I've been using arms with small dia coms.
Mike Swiss has been doing alot of testing with these, and has some good info on his thread on how to really pep up these things just by doing a little endbell work and triming up the brushes.
I can see a big future with these because you can do so much with them :)


Vic
Alright, who cut the cheese?

#134 havlicek

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Posted 10 March 2011 - 10:22 AM

Hi Vic,

I've found that using a pretty "standard-sized" com...not even those huge/fat Muras, that the long leg of the brush spring will always be hitting and bending around the brush end on these motors. It gets even worse when you add some spring insulation on there. It's not really a big deal to shorten brushes and you don't really "need" a brush radius tool or similar to do it, just a slight inconvenience is all. Personally, I prefer the modded Mura end-bell method, but the stock endbell is pretty good!

-john
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#135 Victor Poulin

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Posted 10 March 2011 - 10:42 AM

Every time I try to cut brushes I wind up destroying them lol :rolleyes: What do you use to cut yours with?

Maybe Jennies butter knife isn't the way to go? :laugh2: :laugh2:
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#136 havlicek

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Posted 10 March 2011 - 10:57 AM

Hi Vic,

This could be one of those times when all you need to do is look at the problem a little differently. Don't cut the com end of the brushes, cut the rear end. Then you can use any handy item to cut the slot or slots (if you need a vertical groove for a shunt). I'll even grab a Dremel thin cutoff wheel and hold it by hand and use it as a "file". It makes really nice grooves. For this particular motor, I've found that just grinding off the rear of the brushes to the depth of the original slots is about perfect. The nice thing about that is it's a good "visual" gauge that you're shortening both brushes approximately to the same length.

-john
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#137 Victor Poulin

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Posted 10 March 2011 - 11:32 AM

Thanks John, I'll give it a whirl on the next one. ;)
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#138 Champion 507

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Posted 10 March 2011 - 03:11 PM

Thanks, John.

Let's see, I have 1 more Hawk 6 and I'll be getting 2 more on Saturday.......hmmmmmm. What shall I do to those?...........
Doug Azary
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#139 Victor Poulin

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Posted 10 March 2011 - 08:25 PM

A little birdy might have already told me Doug, but I promise I wont tell :shok: :laugh2:
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#140 idare2bdul

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Posted 11 March 2011 - 02:45 AM

Victor said,"...I like the new endbells to but I find their a bit sloppy." The after market endbell they are selling that comes set up for the bigger American commutators (sorry I don't remember the part number) that I got was snug. There may be variations in fit, time will tell, but it was tighter than my ProSlot endbell was in the same can.
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#141 Victor Poulin

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Posted 11 March 2011 - 09:54 AM

Victor said,"...I like the new endbells to but I find their a bit sloppy." The after market endbell they are selling that comes set up for the bigger American commutators (sorry I don't remember the part number) that I got was snug. There may be variations in fit, time will tell, but it was tighter than my ProSlot endbell was in the same can.


Mike,
I maybe should have worded it differently. I didn't mean the endbell itself, I ment to say the hoods ;) My bad lol !
The endbell itself fits the can nice and snug. Dont get me wrong, I'm not bad mouthing the set ups at all. You just need to do a bit of work/adjusting to blueprint it. No worse that any other motors.

I still feel it's one of the best bangs for the buck, and we've only just begun to tap into all the possibilitys with this motor. :)

Vic
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#142 Champion 507

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Posted 04 May 2011 - 04:53 AM

I need to raise some cash so I built a few things:

http://shop.ebay.com...&_sop=12&_rdc=1
Doug Azary
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#143 Champion 507

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Posted 03 February 2013 - 03:46 AM

Well, I haven't posted any new builds in almost 2 years, so here goes.   A blogger sent me this 507 can w/magnets and endbell and wanted me to make something out of it. Hmmm, I think I'll make a Champion 507R replica out of it.   The can, magnets and endbell were all in pretty good shape. These motors used mostly Mabuchi parts except for the magnets, endbell (and everything that hung on it) and the comm. So I had a good arm (probably from a late Revell SP510X or equivelant) and a new Bill Bugenis comm.   I put 50 turns #29 wire on the arm (period correct). Then I epoxied it. I trued the comm, then I marked the poles on the arm A-B-C with a Sharpie, similar to what Champion did and ground balanced it similar to the way they did also.   I had some NOS Champion brushes with built in shunts that I installed. The post protectors are currently available from Professormotor.com. The springs are current ones available from ProSlot, Mura, etc.   It only draws about .8 amp at 5 volts and sounds plenty fast.   001.JPG   004.JPG   006.JPG   002.JPG   All in all it turned out pretty well. An original would have had nickel plated post protectors and springs. The arm would have had the nylon end insulators installed before it was wound and it would have had a Kirkwood comm. Personally I think the Bill Bugenis comm is just as good in quality and a BIG PLUS...they ARE available!!!

 

Once again this 507R is ready to rock-n-roll. Could that be what the "R" stands for? Works for me.


Doug Azary
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#144 Bill from NH

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Posted 03 February 2013 - 08:51 AM

Doug, nice job duplicating the Champion grind balancing! What do you plan to put this motor in? :)


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#145 Champion 507

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Posted 03 February 2013 - 01:58 PM

Thanks Bill. I'm going to put it in a box and mail it back to a blogger.


Doug Azary
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#146 MantaRay

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Posted 03 February 2013 - 02:59 PM

I'm the lucky blogger. I can't wait to get it. Doug provided the power for my "Balls Out" Choti Race. 


Ray Price
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#147 Champion 507

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Posted 04 February 2013 - 09:16 PM

Hope you enjoy the motor Ray. I enjoyed building it.

 

I built some other motors too. Look here:

 

http://www.ebay.com/...?_ipg=50&_sop=1


Doug Azary
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#148 MantaRay

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Posted 07 February 2013 - 03:22 PM

I got the motor today. Doug did a wonderful job on the 507R.....
Thanks again...
Ray Price
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#149 Gator Bob

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Posted 07 February 2013 - 11:25 PM

Very cool.

 

Thinking the 'R' in 507R was a nomenclature for 'reverse' or 'regular' as in the output location. Possibly 'Russkit' as the original with that closed can bushing. 

 I don't think the 517 endbell would be correct for a Foil label 507R but obviously a much better choice and the way some Champion parts were 'used up'. A combo a like a 507-RK (kit) in Spring of 69 that included the 517 endbell in the $4.50 kit and an RTR 507-RPB "16D case, 27 wire, Champion comm., ARCO 33, Oilite bearings" was marked down from $8.95 to $6.95...lol

 

Speaking of which . A great epay find.... the Corvette painted body ... gone .... a clear Fiero put in its place. Check out the 'freak' motor in this early 'Parma' RTR. I have no reason to doubt that this early Womp 'error' car was assembled with this motor from the factory during a transition period (i.e. 80s dark ages). This 'never run' motor would not last 20 laps. 

 

IMG_2051.JPG

IMG_2052.JPG

IMG_2054.JPG

IMG_2057.JPG

IMG_2058.JPG

 


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#150 Gator Bob

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Posted 07 February 2013 - 11:29 PM

TA-DAH!!! I'M BAAAACK...

The place is kinda dusty and it looks like some small varmits have been in here but nothing that can't be cleaned up with a little soap and water from a 100psi pressure wash gun. :laugh2:

Just a quick post here. These new Hawk 6's are the coolest thing to come along in a long time (in my opinion). So with all the tweaking that's been going on lately, I had to jump in too. You are looking at a rewound Hawk 6 with a Bill Bugenis comm, Champion blue springs and shunts. This baby has 20 turns of #24 Belden heavy Polythermaleze wire on it. I have a multiple syllable one word to describe it...sc-sc-sc-scary! I hope it will go 55ft on 16 volts and still stay within the confines of the slot car track. :shok:ohmy.gif. With light springs on it, it pulled 5 amps at 3 volts. With the blue ones on there my 5 amp ampmeter pegs full scale. All I did was razor blade balance it but it is velvety smooth. It should be a real gear stripper tire ripper.

attachicon.gifDSCF4749.JPG

Doug, Nice.... how did it do at 55ft? :crazy:


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