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Building the JK C11 1/24 chassis


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#1 Cheater

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Posted 19 December 2009 - 11:52 PM

I have to offer my apologies to everyone. I've had these PDFs for quite some time, thanks to Andy Brown-Searle, who sent them to me and invited me to post them here.

But they were bigger than 2MB, which made them too big to upload to Slotblog. I finally figured out how to convert them to smaller, uploadable files. So here they are, even if they're late.

These are excellent building guides for these chassis. Read them closely!

There are two guides, one for the 1/24 two-piece C11, and the other for the 1/32 version. The terms Andy used are X24 and X32.

This first thread will show the 1/24 chassis building tips.

x24_build_sheets.1.jpg
x24_build_sheets.2.jpg
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Gregory Wells

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#2 Guy Spaulding

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Posted 20 December 2009 - 08:23 AM

Do you have any tips that apply specifically to the X11 three-piece chassis that are not used in the two-piece.

Much thanks!

Guy

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#3 Cheater

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Posted 20 December 2009 - 08:44 AM

Guy,

I don't but maybe your question will encourage racers to post any tips they might have.

Gregory Wells

Never forget that first place goes to the racer with the MOST laps, not the racer with the FASTEST lap


#4 Dominator

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Posted 20 December 2009 - 08:53 AM

I basically used the same steps for the three-piece.

A motor is only as fast as the chassis it's in.
 
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#5 Michael Rigsby

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Posted 20 December 2009 - 08:55 AM

Excellent post, Greg. This little tome pretty well covers all the aspects of setup on the JX24.

I do want to add a couple of things. Unless you are running on a completely flat track, do not attempt to adjust the rear pan lift by bending the center pan bridge. Adjust the pan lift by moving the outer pan locators only. If your track is bumpy, or has elevation change or a bank like a hillclimb, bending this center bridge can cause too much pan float.

If running on a hillclimb or banked track, you may also want to make sure the chassis is flat in front of the motor box, otherwise you may have some bottoming out due to G forces if set up concave like the tome suggests. Like I said, that slight concave works well on a flat track, but not on a high speed bank.

Other than those two minor changes, and maybe adding a Slick 7 EDM cross brace in the back, its a dream to set up and run. The EDM crossbrace stiffens it up slightly in the rear, but that can be compensated for by varying your tire compound used.

I love this chassis, probably even more so than the three piece.

Michael Rigsby
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#6 Dominator

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Posted 20 December 2009 - 10:31 AM

I agree with you, Mike, on the rear pan lift. I will bend the back of the pan just behind the rear body mounts up slightly to eliminate any drag when the tires start to get low.

Another thing I will do is add some tape or even some solder onto the center section ribs for the bit bar to raise it up if the pans seem to be hanging too low.

A motor is only as fast as the chassis it's in.
 
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#7 Noose

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Posted 18 January 2010 - 08:29 PM

Has anyone set one of these up for IRRA Flexi GT yet? I have and made some observations but want to hear what others have to say.

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#8 Michael Rigsby

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Posted 18 January 2010 - 09:18 PM

Noose,

Back some time ago when we were starting to run Flexi retro here in Florida before the advent of GRR, there were some races run that specified IRRA rules. At the first race run here in Jacksonville most folks ran the two piece Cheetah 7s or old Turbo-Flex chassis, I chose to run the X24 or two-piece Cheetah 11.

Using a .047" front axle, and JK 5/8" front wheels with narrowed hubs and some O-ring replacement tires on the front rims I found at Ace hardware, I was able to get my front end clearance that I needed with the guide off. The only thing I noted about the car, is that the front wheels were noisy when rolling, but other than that, the car handled very, very well. I lost the main by about a lap or so I think mainly because I kept running into other peoples crashes. Now this was running on a hillclimb track, and I used the setup I described above with an IRRA legal Chevron B16 body. The car handled like a dream and I was 12/36 gearing on a Falcon 7 (brakes... what brakes?).

Now on a flat track, I would naturally gear differently, but I don't think I would change the overall setup too much. The setup I used also did very, very well on a king track when I tried it. I since sold those two cars I had made to a member of this forum, and I hope he does well with them.

Michael Rigsby
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#9 Phil Irvin

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Posted 18 January 2010 - 11:10 PM

I have only played with one X24. I did the flat thing on both center and wing and triangled axle, set for .750" tire, to guide. When I put the two together. It had VERY little side to side and almost no up and down on the rear pan. I bent the center bite bar tabs so when ther bite bar is laying on the center strength ridges. It is in the lower part of the hole.

It was much better but I played with the tabs more giving about .030" side to side play and the front the same on both side to side and up and down. I like to set mine up loose in case of lots of glue and it is very fast eather way now. :wub:

Both two and three piece are fast when set up right... FOR YOU... Can be fast and fairly easy to drive. But when not... :dash2:

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#10 Mike Walpole

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Posted 21 January 2010 - 09:11 AM

Has anyone set one of these up for IRRA Flexi GT yet? I have and made some observations but want to hear what others have to say.


OVRR ran the Flexi GT class last year but dropped it this year. Tom Thumb still runs the class on alternate Saturdays. We run a local Flexi class using 16Ds and GT1 bodies. Plus, we did some testing with the Falcon 7 motors in the cars this week. We'll probably let both motors run together as both motors turn similar lap times.

We've has the best luck with the two-piece chassis with a .055" axle and the plastic 5/8" O-ring wheels. I've run three-piece chassis that were just as fast, but they don't seem to be as consistent. The Coupe body with a spoiler handles similar to a GT1 body and turns similar lap times.

#11 SlowToyCars

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Posted 01 February 2010 - 09:29 PM

Greg, if you can assist with some photo work, I will expound with my knowledge, what you have started here...
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#12 Gator Bob

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Posted 16 November 2014 - 01:50 PM

Just found this post... now I gotta read it.   

Can't keep up with all the X, C, 11 2piece, 3 piece 24, 25 nomenclature ...

 

So ... this is a Gator Built-Florida rules three piece mix and match .030 C/D can big hole center section w/ .025 pans.

Trying this combo as a compromise between strength and weight.

 Uses .050" SS tube front axle and large head body pins as wheel retainers.

 No solder design makes pan disassembly fast and easy to keep chassis parts flat...  for the 3 piece it's a brilliant idea.

 

 

IMG_3316s.jpg

 

IMG_3318.JPG


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#13 CoastalAngler1

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Posted 17 November 2014 - 07:35 AM

Thank You Gator Bob!  This racer was built for ME  :victory:  She weighs in at 86.8 grams with body and tires  :good: Now where's that darn camera...


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#14 Gator Bob

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Posted 21 November 2014 - 03:32 PM

Glad you like it Charlie,

 It sure got a 'look over' at the track.  

 

..... "Tricks are for kids"


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#15 CoastalAngler1

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Posted 21 November 2014 - 10:19 PM

Yes, her unveiling caused quite a stir at The Raceway.

Chassis by Gator Bob!  

Body by Race Pace, Bill Pinch!

She got tested at the private track, kept coming off in only one corner.  

Found the body was needing a trim down low, now she's ready for hillclimb testing!

 

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racer money.jpg


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#16 Michael Rigsby

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Posted 22 November 2014 - 08:15 AM

Charlie,

 

Very nice looking car. One thing I will recommend is to solder on a JK guide tongue brace.  This is a weak spot on this particular center section, moreso than the .025 center section.  I use this exact setup on my NASCAR racers, and my LMP/GT1 cars, and trust me, that guide tongue brace will save your bacon more than once. My GTP cars I tend to use a .025/.025 setup for pure speed.

 

I'm taking that is a Big Dog arm in the Hawk 6 setup, or is that a stock arm? And using the Camen/Cahoza spur gear is a good choice.  Since switching to those I have not stripped one out by being involved in a collision involving a sudden stop. The ProSlot gears would do that repeatedly in such instances.

 

Again, nice sanitary build. :clapping:


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#17 CoastalAngler1

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Posted 22 November 2014 - 10:22 AM

Thanks Michael, this is my first sharpened weapon - first real racer, honored to receive help from Gator Bob and Bill Pinch and Terry Tawney always spends a few minutes when I ask specific questions. Love that 'pure speed' comment, getting there soon hopefully.  :yes:

 

Stock Arm, blueprinted motor by Alpha then given the Gator treatment. :ph34r: Bodies to get sponsor decals before 2015 race season.  Learning fast, but got a long way to go...  I need practice to join the Florida My Series 2015, setups will get re-done for the classes when they're finalized. I think I got another amateur to join next year with me, that way will have an enduro partner.  We'll be homies at The Raceway. :crazy: 

 

More info about the GTB?  looked on jkproducts.com and know what it looks like - pics on a car? 


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#18 Gator Bob

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Posted 22 November 2014 - 02:59 PM

MB,

Thanks for the comps., I built the car as a MySeries - GT1 with a stock arm. That is what Charlie asked for.... not sure why the GTP body is on it.

 

Charlie,

I purposely left the guide tongue brace off as the car comes apart so easy to check straightness....and ....because you are going to 'keep it in the slot'. 

If you bend it and straighten the tongue a few times (like 4-5) more than a couple of thousandths then consider adding a 'heavy' steel tongue brace as the .030 coined riser metal will get soft.

 

TonyP and I ran that center in an endure at Bill Pinch's... un-braced tongue worked out fine.

 

 


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#19 Bill from NH

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Posted 22 November 2014 - 03:14 PM

If you use the guide tongue brace, you won't bend & have to straighten it 4 or 5 times. Some call that preventive maintenance. :D


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#20 Gator Bob

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Posted 22 November 2014 - 03:26 PM

If you use the guide tongue brace, you won't bend & have to straighten it 4 or 5 times. Some call that preventive maintenance. :D

 

What's a hen weigh? :clapping:


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#21 gotboostedvr6

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Posted 22 November 2014 - 04:58 PM

Your not going to bend the .030 centers tongue with brace properly installed if the job is done using a new center and new brace.
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#22 Bill from NH

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Posted 22 November 2014 - 06:28 PM

 

What's a hen weigh? :clapping:

 

That depends how big the hen is. :laugh2:   Question. When do you add air to your tires? When a tire looks like it could be a little low? When the tire is flat?


Bill Fernald
 

How old should a highway be before you tell it, that it has been adopted?


#23 Gator Bob

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Posted 22 November 2014 - 09:17 PM

Your not going to bend the .030 centers tongue with brace properly installed if the job is done using a new center and new brace.

I've heard that trick but I'm not driving it.    :secret:  :huh:     

 

 

  Question. When do you add air to your tires? When a tire looks like it could be a little low? When the tire is flat?

    :prankster2:    ... Both :friends:


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#24 Bill from NH

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Posted 22 November 2014 - 10:41 PM

I will continue to blueprint my own flexi chassis. :to_become_senile:


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#25 CoastalAngler1

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Posted 24 November 2014 - 11:41 AM

I will continue to blueprint my own flexi chassis. :to_become_senile:

Blueprint, or bulletproof?  A hen with an egg ready should weigh heavier.  Copycats are much lighter - they take on different body shape sometimes too.  (Didn't get the GT-1 body yet)   


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