8 replies to this topic

[rewinder]

okay I have the straights,14" radius,21" radius, the cross over, the block out straight, the highspeed bank for 2 lanes, the figure s devided into to lanes opposite..... the revell layout book/manual and I know about riggen as well. so something is wrong about revell in such they didn't make or have as to what you can get in Scaletric or Stombecker.

In order to get the right intersections and special short arcs of turns...you will have to make them out of masonite and route them.

Yeah I can make a 24', 4 lane, straight...then 180 degree turn then another 24' straight and then a 180 degree turn and then somewhere down the middle straight I can send 2 carseach left and right into a highspeed bank and then blend them into the 4 lane middle and repeat the banks 3 more times, and then 180 degree going up on each 2 lanes and do the upper diagional 2 lanes each side feeding back a nd crossing over and then desending 180 degree 2 lanes....to a common middle 4 lane straight....but what about those short arc sements and half turns.

I know also that gentle elevations and over and unders can be done as well.
Off the wall about 6 ft to 7 ft out going down 20 to 24 ft this will be the foot print for a 4 lane revell magnet track..............????????

I'm open for suggestions from others who have had to be creative with what Revell made in all their track paterns..............

Another kick it up a notch idea... say if I decided to paint all the plastic track what would be a save and very durable paint for silicones and neopreme..Ii know about rustoleum plastic paint...the color of the of the Revell track needs to be lightend up for better
visability.

open to suggestions. Regards 357

[Horsepower]

Hi Clay! I'd use Krylon spray paint. They have one made to bond specifically to plastic and although I haven't used any I heard it works pretty well. It's called Krylon Fusion.
http://www.krylon.co...on_for_plastic/

[Gary Bluestone]

My personal belief is that you shouldn't paint the track. Revell is one of the lightest color track ever made, most others are black. Recently I was cleaning a bit of Monogram track and I think I used Ronsonol lighter fluid(probably benzene). I was trying to remove the black tire marks, and go for the best traction. I also tried "Fantastic " brand household cleaner "VIM" and "Pinesol" . Solvents like Varsol, mineral spirits , laquer thinner will all likely destroy the track. Although Strombecker track made 1/2 straights and 1/2 curves, I haven't seen the same in Revell. I have never had to do this but have dreamed up a way of making such pieces. The idea is to first remove the rails and then cut out a section of the track in the middle, leaving the outer ends intact. Glue the two outside pieces together and replace the rails and modify the end of the rail to fit. I would try a piece of standard curve first since these are common. For best traction and conductivity, before racing , I have been wiping down the track with a tak rag and cleaning the rails with scotch brite pad. Gb

[Horsepower]

Isn't Monogram the lightest, being that it is a cement color?

[Gary Bluestone]

Monogram is probably the lightest with Revell a close shade darker. Monogram has the deepest slot of the vintage tracks. Carrera is easily available with lots of variation of pieces.

[gascarnut]

If you decide to paint, then this stuff works very well, to stick to any type of plastic and provide good grip for many different types of tires:

UMA urethane-modified acrylic

I have it on my wood track , tinted a darkish grey:

[Gary Bluestone]

This might help, just found it in the 1970 Auto World catalogue.GB

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[Gary Bluestone]

Here is a track I build for a friend, using only standard curves and straights, and 30 deg. outside curves 21" radius Strombecker track. It uses 66 pieces of track per 2 lanes, has 2 x 11 ft. straights, 1 x 12 ft. straight and 1x 10 ft. straight. Skid aprons are home made, started out with 4 seperate power packs. Gb

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[Kevin Dickinson]

It is very easy to make half straights or curves or any size for that matter. If you are making half of something find out what the overall measurement will be, then cut that in half again and mark that on two track pieces. Remove the rails from both pieces and place on top of the other and line up the marks that you made previously. I use masking or painters tape to hold the two pieces together and cut them on a table top scroll saw. I have also used a razor saw. Either way is fine. Remove the tape and clean up any burrs on the cut edges. You then measure and cut the rails and insert them into the two cut pieces. I cut strips from scrap track pieces and super glue them to the underside of of the track that you just made. You can also add some hot glue or epoxy to strengthen the joint. You will also have to fill in any cracks in between too. If you can cut a straight line then this will be minimum.

Kevin