54 replies to this topic

[Jairus]

Well,
Here is a project that I have been working on for a long time. Ah, since last years Proxy race at least . . . Anyway, I got it out again today because I am between projects and thought I would let you guys see the progress thus far. That and I want to work on the brass wire pans tonight.

The chassis is your basic brass rod Iso. The inner rails are .078 while the outside are the more standard .063.



The structure out back is the Iso pivot, not a rear bumper.



The Iso frame is .063 Steel wire as is the front axle.





I cannot help doing a mockup from time to time checking for clearances and such. Notice how the wheels are taller than the body? This thing doesn't need a roll bar, huh?
Wheels are old Riggen threaded pieces with original rubber on the front and Ortmann rubber on the rear. The front wheels are sleeved with brass tubing so that they will spin easily on the 1/16" axle. The tubing is held in place with epoxy.
 

 

 

Power for this churn is to be a 26D. Needs some work though . . .

[endbelldrive]

Wowee. Nice looking project. Which Ortmanns are you using on the rears? I'm just getting ready to do my Christmas shopping at Electrical Dreams and could use a couple of sets. :dance:

[Jairus]

Bob . . .
I don't know for sure. I did a deal with Edo and he sent me a set that would fit the wheels I wanted to use. That was many months ago.
Sorry that I cannot help you. :|

[Pablo]

Where is Edo? Off in the corner, drooling? :?:

[TSR]

He's preparing another revolution against the Swiss government. 8)

[Jairus]

Worked on this all last night till midnight. Thought I would take a moment and post these pictures before I brave the mobs at the mall . . .

Iso is ready to mount on the chassis. Still needs pin tubes and the up-stop. I am also thinking about how to brace the front axle. A sharp wheel hit and the axle might twist breaking the solder bond. This baby has to be bulletproof if I’m going to send it halfway around the world and let someone else drive it!



Before permanently mounting the Iso however, a little grease is required on the pivots. Tool grease is the choice here and it will prevent any rusting inside the tube, which would inhibit smooth operation.



Apply the grease liberally to the shafts and shove more down the tubes with a toothpick.
 

 

Wipe up what grease oozes out.
 

 

 

The rear spreader bar is now solidly attached which ties the two frame halves together and stiffens up the rear of the Iso considerably.

Onward . . .

[Horsepower]

Well, I'm sure you are sick of hearing this but, BEAUTIFUL JOB! How did you do those fancy bends on the outside rails? :drool: :up:

[TSR]

I second that and I don't think anyone is sick except my wife who got a cold.

[Pablo]

:mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

[Jairus]

Well, I'm sure you are sick of hearing this but, BEAUTIFUL JOB! How did you do those fancy bends on the outside rails? :drool: :up:

Gary,
Thank you. All bends are made with a set of humble needle-nose pliers and my fingers.
Small tool marks are sanded out.

Some of the pieces require a lot of bends . . . so I place the finished piece on a flat surface to make sure it lays flat. If not, I mark the high points, then tap them out with a hammer while the piece sits on a sheet of matt-board. The matt provides support but gives a little to allow the brass rod to change shape slightly. Recheck after a few taps with the hammer. I use a very small jewelers hammer for this. It takes time but works great!

As an aside . . . when bending music wire past 90-degree bends, it usually becomes very weak at the bend. I have noticed that if you have to bend it back, for any odd reason, the wire usually breaks. In order to make certain that the wire bend will be strong enough I have taken to heating the wire bend to a cherry red color and then quick quench in a pan of 30 weight oil. The heat relaxes the tension in the wire and the quick quench hardens it again.

Bill,
The joint doesn't really need wire wrapping. That won't keep the axle from twisting should the wheel tap the wall or another car. Note that the axle is shaped like a crank! A wheel hit will twist the joint breaking the solder but the axle will remain trapped between the wire hook and the brass spacer. I think I need an additional rod up where the force would be greatest, sort of like a radius rod on a 1:1 racecar. Now that, I will wire wrap! :-D

[TSR]

Jairus,
How many hours does it take you to get to this point?

[Jairus]

P,
I am not sure of the hours. I have been working on this one off and on for quite a while, usually between projects and in the evening.

The "Dream Lover" chassis took about 10 hours total. I would figure that I probably have that much time in this one, too. Maybe a little more . . .
Now, I have a request for two more similar chassis! I'll do them both at the same time and save some steps . . . at least, that's what I have seen Steve and Rick do.

[Horsepower]

I thought sure there was some trick tool or something. That's amazing! Thanks! :-D

[Jairus]

Update: Von Thingy chassis is finished!
The front bumper bars are now strengthened with .063 music wire.
Body mount pin tubes are soldered to the pans, with the front one tying the pans together.
A down-stop is in place for the drop arm and the front axle is braced, with a wire-wrapped joint to make it bullet proof. I have tried to work out all the possible weak points and eliminate them one by one. If anyone sees something that I do no . . . please tell me!
Oh, and that stupid hole in the center of the forward drop pan bothers me. I am thinking of grinding out an arch between the inner rails just to eliminate a hole that dosn't have a purpose. Hmmmmm . . .



Closeup of the front axle “tie-rods" shows that they do double duty, in that they not only support the axle but also aid in tying together about four rods.

Next installment: Making that 26D sing like Grace Slick, without self-destructing a very vintage Dynamic arm!!!

[MarcusPHagen]

I really appreciate the clear close-ups. They make it easy to see what you are describing as "bulletproofing".

One question - in your search for possible points of stress, are the pin tubes perhaps a bit low? If I read correctly, the pin holes will be approximately 3/32" above the bottom edge of the body. Is that enough, or would it be a good idea to use brass rod for a base, and then solder the tubes above the pans, rather like this:
O
@@
===========

That should give a full 5/32" of Lexan below the pin hole.

It just seems a shame to have these beautiful bods ripped up any sooner than they must.

Marcus

[Jairus]

You both are right. However, the Hammerhead body has such a radical taper that the bottom edge of the body is the only place for the pintube. Any highter and the pin has to be inserted through the body on an angled surface.

The body is very thick and I do plan to do some "proofing" to the underside once the paint is applied.

Good eyes Marcus, that is still one of my unresolved issues.

[MarcusPHagen]

Thanks for the replies. I'm especially interested in the problem of bulletproofing thingies, since I hope to send a few to Edo's proxy next spring. I'm happy to hear that the body thickness will help, but am wondering about the other methods Bill mentioned.

Would it be possible to see some examples? The last time I bulletproofed a Lexan body, it was a .007 in 1970 or so. A lot has obviously changed since then.

Metal Ninja stars? Who'da thunk it? Sounds like it would fit in with the thingie mood.

[idare2bdul]

I suggest not hitting anything. That always works for me.

Well, it does sometimes. 8)

[dc-65x]

Great looking chassis, Jairus. It's going to be a really cool car as it has "The Look" 8)

[TSR]

Aaaaaah . . . "The Look". . .





:clap: :kiss: :dance:

[BWA]

More look, Eh! 8)

[MarcusPHagen]

Al, is that nut on the can a body mount?

Marcus

[Pablo]

Yes, it is.