53 replies to this topic

[dc-65x]

HE is a tool isnt he. LOL...

.....tool..... ...Richard....Rick......DICK!.....

Man, I'm old AND slow

[Bill from NH]

Those who brag, usually have to! Rick, let's not help us steal your own thread.

[dc-65x]

OK Bill, then I stuff my can….. with magnets, armature and endbell that is . This original modified motor had French-Tradeshipe aftermarket magnets installed. They’re on the left and the ’68 Mabuchi magnets and clip are on the right:




Those French magnets are pretty strong at a gauss reading of 550 but the Mabuchi beat them out with an impressive:



The French are thicker and have a nice full contour unlike the Mabuchi. I shimmed the Mabuchi’s , stuffed them in and shifted them until the armature was centered in their field. Here is the armature all spiffed up and ready to get stuffed:



The Tradeship replacement brush springs pictured earlier are thicker wire and a lot stronger that the stock springs. With them and the new brushes installed I ran the motor at 4V for 20 minutes to break it in. It stayed cool and drew .5 amps.

The finished motor looks pretty stock except for the 0-80 flat head endbell screws and the balanced arm. You won’t be able to see it once my K&S “Handling Package” is in place anyway:





Chassis time……….

[Pablo]

Those who brag, usually have to!

Bill, it ain't braggin' if ya can back it up !
Rick T. backs it up

[Bill from NH]

Pablo, I didn't mean Rick, I was referring to the comment made by Richard, Rich, Tex, or "Big Tool."

[Pablo]

I was speaking in general terms

Onward, Capt. Rick !

[Hworth08]

Pretty motor!

A lot of Hemi magnets went in Mabuchi cans. Maybe the first Mabuchi magnets put in a Hemi can?

But actually I don't beleive the oval hole motor used Mabuchi magnets, maybe some magnets from Hong Kong? Philippe...

[dc-65x]

Hi Don,

I don't know who makes this style magnet. I've seen the same physical shape magnets and magnet clip used in both the oval hole '68 Mabuchi (with both black and white endbell) and the late Hemi motors. The colors painted on the ends of the magnets has varied though.

[munter]

I've seen magnets like that in the Hitachi/riko motors of old.
The clip and groove through the centre is the same....dont think they were colour coded as strongly though.
Got a few sets here in the motor department.
I thought I would put them in a motor build that I am dreaming up.
regards

ps lovely work Rick, I am enjoying this thread.

[dc-65x]

I decided to use a brass tube for the front axle. I made a brass sleeve to fit over it between the Dynamic uprights. The sleeve is notched so it can be soldered to the axle tube:



Red Loctite keeps the axle tube from spinning and the soldered on sleeve keeps the axle tube from shifting side to side. Next time I think I'd use an aluminum sleeve and just epoxy the whole mess together............or maybe bearings instead of an axle tube.....so many possibilities :



For the rear end I used these neato aluminum bearing cups:





They were installed with red Loctite......



...which is strong stuff that made taking them back off a real pain . I ASSumed the rear track width would still be OK but I was wrong. It was too wide . What's the saying, "measure twice and cut once".

Anywho, I put in flanged ball bearings and built up the rest of the car:



"Where's the beef?"
This flyweight gets the "K&S Metals Handling Package" next..........

[Pablo]

I get the feeling the pans are going to be heavy.......

[Horsepower]

Max sano, as always! Two comments-First, when I saw the front axle I thought "Why would you want to do THAT?". After I looked at it, it DOES seem like a neat idea! Sure you could use an aluminum tube and epoxy, but there's something about brass that "warms it up". Also the brass is stronger than K&S aluminum tubing. There are also brass front end bearing holders by Dynamic that you could use for a complete brass front end (you probably know that). Second, that body must be pretty narrow if just adding bearing cups made the rear too wide. Who would have had that much foresight on something like that?

[dc-65x]

I get the feeling the pans are going to be heavy.......

Hi Pablo, it's ended up at 160 grams without a body...."road hugging weight!"

........that body must be pretty narrow if just adding bearing cups made the rear too wide.....

Gary, it's only 2.3" wide . I'm treating it like an old Midwestern 1/32 scale car....lots of power....lots of weight. We'll see how it works out. That's the fun me thinks .

So, here is my K&S pan installed:





It's mounted loose as a "rattle pan". The flat head screws are adjusted just short of tight then these set screws lock them in place:





For a body mount I decided to go with a bolt on piece that adds even more weight. Here they are in my old ugly fixture.



After a bit of cleanup, ready to be cut in half and trimmed up.........



........and installed:



I took Fate's advice and ditched the set screw attached guide. I could wiggle the guide and the collar would loosen . I installed a screw from the top and it seems good now...thanks Rocky:



It's finished and ready to test at Eddie's soon:

[68Caddy]

Rich you are a tease and you are still killing me with your BLING.


Nesta

[Alchemist]

Hi Rick,

As proptop mentioned "you produce jewelry". Phenomenal work Rick!!

Ernie

[Duffy]

Wow, that's a chunk of brass; & nice setscrewing. The Simichome Corporation thanks you for keeping it going during these tough times. You aren't gonna rattle the body mount akas, too?

Flathead screws aren't the just-right thing for a proper rattle, hmm...I'm envisioning some shallow spotfaces and custom-turned ultraflat fillister screws...okay, envision time's over boys & girls, back to the Lost Cause limit of "nothing that can't be produced by a 12-yr-old with a hand drill!"

Duffy

[dc-65x]

Thanks guys.

Duffy, you're right.....when tumbling alone just isn't enough....SemiChrome! And, flat head screws kind of suck and are better used in wood . I've seen flat heads used in the old slot car magazines so I felt they were "Korrect" if not the "best".

So far the body mounts are "good'n tite" with the pan. The whole mess floats together. If I need to float them too I can substitute Nylock nuts to get some rattle.

[Hworth08]

Wow...that's nice!

Never thought of using set screws for jam nuts like that, glad I thought of it!

That's the way we used to do the guides on the Dynamic or Cuk frames. Surprisingly the method works as well as a nut does today.

Really nice, a car a racer would have really been proud of!

[gascarnut]

That is just too cool for school! Great job, as always, I just LOVE looking at your builds.

Flat head screws are fine, IMO, but how about using brass screws rather than steel? Methinks it might give an even better look to the (shiny ) underside.

[Prof. Fate]

Hi

I like this one!

In the day, we did the widest lowest possible car for the performance, and I did a few "play toys" which because of their size would NEVER be competitive, thus the "lost cause" idea promoted by Duffy. This car is way prettier than any of mine!

Fate

[dc-65x]

...... because of their size would NEVER be competitive, thus the "lost cause" idea promoted by Duffy.

The nail has just been hit squarely on the head by the good Prof. That's why I chose this car and called this post Zerex "Lost Cause" Special....The little car that could??? When the body is all finished and detailed I'll take a picture of it next to a Lotus 40 or Lola T70 for a size comparison. This car is SMALL! Fun stuff

[Hworth08]

Lost Cause? Well maybe not always? Most likely early 1966 the short wheelbase made a run at out track. Shorter was lighter, lighter was faster. The width didn't matter, we just cut the wheel wells and let the tires stick out!

Hacked bodies looked normal to us, that's the way all the 1:1 cars were in this area except the NASCAR Grand Nationals. They looked funny, too narrow, too tall.

[Duffy]

Well yah, Lost Cause NOW when the norm's these hella-wide tires and cowcatcher Ti22 bodies; warn't always like that. Heck, now I think of it, I was doing Lost Cause THEN as well--things like an Auto Union typC with scale wheels, finally went to the Hillclimb version so I could get two tyres on the back for some grip. (I also did a wheelie-popping tank once.)

Just did a comparison--the Zerex has the same wheelbase as my Lotus 11, but the Lotus' closed fenders gives me only 2.05" rear track max...I was considering going back and doing this one up Korrekt, but yesterday a Cobra Daytona Coupe body jumped into my lap and smiled beguilingly up at me, going "Are You My Daddy?" So now--hmm--

Duffy

[Pablo]

"nothing that can't be produced by a 12-yr-old with a hand drill!"

Duffy, my ears are burning

[Duffy]

Hey Rikky, s'been ten days and kinda quiet here. What's the matter, Fear Of Airbrushing? --Or just (my favorite) Life Gets In The Way?

Me, I got all excited about a LC project, and it promptly turned into three! Now they're all sitting around just outside my personal space with me trapped in the middle, like Obligation Dodge Ball--just as I move towards one, the others scream "No, do Meee first, Me Mee MEEEE!" and I'm back at center.Could be worse, I guess; I could have nothing. --That would be worse, right?

Duffy