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Omni Cidex
#1
Posted 27 May 2010 - 09:54 AM
I'm looking for the description for the switch position settings. the metal togel seems to have 3, left ,middle, right. is this the sensitivety switch?
The slider switch has 3 or 4 bottom middle ,top is this the break?
Thanks!
Steve M
#2
Posted 27 May 2010 - 10:32 AM
#4
Posted 12 September 2010 - 04:28 PM
Larry D. Kelley, MA
retired raceway owner... Raceworld/Ramcat Raceways
racing around Chicago-land
Diode/Omni repair specialist
USRA 2023 member # 2322
IRRA,/Sano/R4 veteran, Flat track racer/MFTS
Host 2006 Formula 2000 & ISRA/USA Nats
Great Lakes Slot Car Club (1/32) member
65+ year pin Racing rail/slot cars in America
#5
Posted 12 September 2010 - 04:54 PM
To finish First you must first Finish
#6
Posted 20 September 2010 - 08:24 PM
Most of them use the standard silicon "KBU-8" bridge rectifier. The 'Euro" models use the glass passivated 'GBU-8' rectifiers and any can be refitted with them for more softer sensitivity for flat track racing.
Larry D. Kelley, MA
retired raceway owner... Raceworld/Ramcat Raceways
racing around Chicago-land
Diode/Omni repair specialist
USRA 2023 member # 2322
IRRA,/Sano/R4 veteran, Flat track racer/MFTS
Host 2006 Formula 2000 & ISRA/USA Nats
Great Lakes Slot Car Club (1/32) member
65+ year pin Racing rail/slot cars in America
#7
Posted 21 September 2010 - 06:03 AM
To finish First you must first Finish
#8
Posted 21 September 2010 - 08:37 AM
And how much would it cost t repair
William:
You should inquire with a Private Message specifying the repair needed.
Ray Carlisi
#9
Posted 21 September 2010 - 09:41 AM
To finish First you must first Finish
#10
Posted 22 September 2010 - 11:20 AM
If you DO break one, I still fix them. I also have the 'Stick" units that replace an external resistor. Adding fuses to the white and red lines will make the Omni almost indestructable....as long as you stick to ceramic motors.
Thanks Ramcat ,I remembered that you do repairs and gave your info to a few drag racers I saw using Omni's I met last weekend !
I have purchased 2 more recently and got a good deal. so far they have taken everything I throw at them .
#11
Posted 22 September 2010 - 11:20 AM
Broken parts include:
cracked or chipped rectifiers; switches that do not 'click' into position; torn board traces or unsoldered wires; missing polarity LED or other basic controller parts.....like the trigger jumper wire.
NOT working right includes:
no (or partial) brakes in any slide switch position; no change in acceleration curve (sensitivity) in any toggle position; no action at all; sparks and flames....
Fixed and upgraded includes:
proper operation; fusing on white line (10 amp) and fuse or circuit breaker (>5 amp) on the red line; solid mounting of the head on the handle and balenced so that the controller does not want to fall to the right as the factory instructions instruct you to do in the simple assembly method.
The slide switch is the main price problem right now...since TYCO corp took over Augut, they have nearly tripled the price and new ones are over $10 each, and not well stocked at the vendors
Even damaged boards can be salvaged with jumper wires. Time and materials-I work cheap at $10/hour plus shipping and parts. Usually is at least a two hour job other than clean and polish.
Larry D. Kelley, MA
retired raceway owner... Raceworld/Ramcat Raceways
racing around Chicago-land
Diode/Omni repair specialist
USRA 2023 member # 2322
IRRA,/Sano/R4 veteran, Flat track racer/MFTS
Host 2006 Formula 2000 & ISRA/USA Nats
Great Lakes Slot Car Club (1/32) member
65+ year pin Racing rail/slot cars in America
#12
Posted 22 September 2010 - 11:45 AM
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Mike Katz
Scratchbuilts forever!!
#13
Posted 23 September 2010 - 06:52 PM
Larry D. Kelley, MA
retired raceway owner... Raceworld/Ramcat Raceways
racing around Chicago-land
Diode/Omni repair specialist
USRA 2023 member # 2322
IRRA,/Sano/R4 veteran, Flat track racer/MFTS
Host 2006 Formula 2000 & ISRA/USA Nats
Great Lakes Slot Car Club (1/32) member
65+ year pin Racing rail/slot cars in America