Hardbody scratchbuilds
#1
Posted 03 September 2010 - 04:53 PM
With most of these cars, you will see that I have done a few things the same each time, so let's get that stuff out the way first:
1. I usually turn down the original rear wheels to make inserts for whatever rear wheels are going on the car. Sometimes these are narrowed-down JK rims with foam tires, sometimes theey are BWA Wheels with silicone or Ortmann tires.
2. I generally modify the original front wheels and tires to run on a 1/16 or 3/32 axle, by sleeving the original wheel with brass tubing.
3. Mostly I use TSRF Guides, for a number of reasons. They take "proper" braids, they work on pretty much any plastic or wood track, and they have a decent post that allows for a nice solid mounting system. They are also a bi smaller than a commercial guide. If the car is primarily intended for commercial track use, however, then I generally use a Parma or similar guide.
4. Gears are either Slot.it or TSRF usually, although the TSRF gears are a little on the big side sometimes. REmember to only use Slot.it pinions with Slot.it gears as their pitch is different to the American gears.
The first two I did were for Vinny Spina, who sent me a Fly Capri Turbo and a Scalextric Camaro, plus some ProSlot 4002 chinese arm motors:
It took a bit of time to cut the pans to fit, but it all worked out really well. The original car had a front motor and a full cockpit, but with the sidewinder I managed to retain almost all the cockpit detail.
The Camaro:
This one needed some special attention on the side pans, as the sides of the body were very shallow. I made a second hinged section that stands vertically on the outer edge of each pan and carries the pin tubes. It worked well, although it is a bit tricky to get the pins in tight.
Both of these had foam tires and commercial guides. Vinny will need to comment on the performance, as I never did get to drive them on a commercial track.
More in the next post.
- Steve McCready likes this
#2
Posted 03 September 2010 - 05:01 PM
On the front wheels, I managed to save the plastic knock-offs and use them to retain the original wheels once they had been modified to run on a 1/16 axle:
Small differences in the frame design, since I built these two about a year apart, but the same basic concept (Plus I almost never build two exactly the same anyway!).
#3
Posted 03 September 2010 - 05:12 PM
Barney Poynor
12/26/51-1/31/22
Requiescat in Pace
#4
Posted 03 September 2010 - 05:29 PM
Like that you clarified why you use specific Guides and why, very helpful for me.
I'm still playing with the idea to mount the body to the chassis with Slotit plastic cups, it seems to be a easier way to go for me?
Maybe its not doable but it could be worth a try?
Nesta
Nesta Szabo
In this bright future you can't forget your past.
BMW (Bob Marley and the Wailers)
United we stand and divided we fall, the Legends are complete.
I'm racing the best here at BP but Father time is much better then all of us united.
Not a snob in this hobby, after all it will be gone, if we keep on going like we do, and I have nothing to prove so I keep on posting because I have nothing to gain.
It's our duty to remember the past so we can have a future.
Pistol Pete you will always be in my memory.
#5
Posted 03 September 2010 - 05:31 PM
This one was to be a proxy race entry, under a Scalextric Maserati MC12:
All PCB construction, all glued together (the rules did not allow soldering!). In the end, I did not enter the car as there was a "difference of opinion" about the copper cladding on the PCB, the organizers said that constituted a metal chassis - go figure. It was also designed as a magnet car, and as such was magnificent, but without it the size and length of the body make for tail-happy handling. Note the use of a Sakatsu trailing guide.
This is a super-fun car. Based on a SCX Citroen rally car, with a slot.it 29k motor, Alpha wheels (from Denmark) and silicone tires, it was fast from day 1 and still is one of my alll-time favorites. The frame is an iso-fulcrum design so it can adapt to the varying rail heights encountered when changing from one brand of plastic track to another.
This little tiddler took a bit of work. It's a Ninco Austin Healey 3000 body, originally a hardtop that I turned into a SCCA-type club racer:
Squeezing a sidewinder into a 2" wide car is not easy but it was worth it. This car was never beaten in a full season of club racing in Denver.
And finally, this was a proxy Race entry back in 2005, before the Maserati episode:
Another PCB car, inline, with a floating motor pod similar to a Slot.it car:
If it had been geared better it might have won that series, but I got it wrong and it was slower than it should have been.
And that's it for now. I have bunches of resin-bodied cars too, but that was not the intent of this thread so we can keep them for another time.
Thanks for looking!
#6
Posted 03 September 2010 - 10:02 PM
Would you please stop humiliating us ?
They are absolutely great !
Best regards.
André Acker.
- Dick likes this
#7
Posted 06 September 2010 - 07:12 AM
I have one question . Can you solder the componets to the copper clad PCB ? I realize your build didn't allow it but if wanting to , is it doable ?
Thx,
Gonzo
#8
Posted 06 September 2010 - 07:53 AM
Great chassis and designs.. this winter I will be trying to do up some like that.. I was always impressed on how well you cars always handled in the old Proxy races we ran in... That was so much fun trying to figure out a way to beat you... I am still hunting for a way
Chris
#9
Posted 06 September 2010 - 01:31 PM
That is very inspiring and quality work . You have a talent for sure .
I have one question . Can you solder the componets to the copper clad PCB ? I realize your build didn't allow it but if wanting to , is it doable ?
Thx,
Gonzo
Thanks for the compliments!
Yes, you can solder to the cladding of the PCB, but you need to be careful as you can easily overheat it and then the cladding comes loose. I never try to solder any load-bearing components. As you can see, there are always screws and/or slotted sections that are glued as well as soldered.
#10
Posted 21 December 2012 - 09:24 AM
#11
Posted 21 December 2012 - 10:01 PM
I have seen the ferrari P4 before but the others are new to me...I appreciate the chance to view.
Regards
John Warren
Slot cars are my preferred reality