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Buzco Plumber Anglewinder H Power car


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#26 dc-65x

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Posted 15 March 2011 - 08:51 PM

How about wheels ? Too many choices........Help Rick !


Hi Pablo,

The Riggen AA repops I sent (3/4" front and 7/8" rear) would be Okie Dokie :D. You could even paint the centers black to simulate the black anodized version.

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#27 Pablo

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Posted 15 March 2011 - 09:17 PM

Nesta, I appreciate your enthusiasm, but you need to read the start of the thread.
I can just see the look on Speedy's face as I tell him "Oh, yeah, the Buzco project car, I sent that to Nesta a long time ago" :laugh2:

Paul Wolcott


#28 dc-65x

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Posted 15 March 2011 - 09:18 PM

Motors.......The chassis kit ad looks like it's crying for an end bell drive 16D to me. Check the motor bracket height to see if it tall. If it's .660" to .680" or so a Mura A-can or Champion 517 with the metal bearing plate end bell should work.

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#29 Pablo

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Posted 15 March 2011 - 09:42 PM

Rick, like this ? :

DSC02998.JPG

Paul Wolcott


#30 Pablo

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Posted 15 March 2011 - 10:08 PM

The brass bracket mikes at .653 tall. This one resembles the one in the Buzco ad.

Thanks Dok, Thanks Rick :D I could not do this without your help !

Paul Wolcott


#31 TSR

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Posted 15 March 2011 - 11:03 PM

Pablo,
Rick is correct. The motor you need for this chassis is either a Mabuchi FT16D with endbell-side drive such as a Russkit "23" or similar motor that would be a rewind, or better, a period-correct Champion "517", "525" or "535" (all using the same can and magnets) with a Mura endbell for D-size motor, Or, a 1968 to 1970 Mura D-size motor (not a "C-can").
The front wheels you have are OK, you can fit big fat O-rings and grind them flat on top to the 3/4" diameter likely required. The rears will be 13/16" by 5/8" wide. A Cox spur gear (32-T or so) would be the right gear with an 8T steel pinion. The motor can be bolted to the bracket and a steel brace carefully soldered to the back axle tube and the side of the can, after which you will want to clean and rinse that acid with some serious solvent, an "acid brush" and Pure electrical cleaner. This way the thing will not corrode on you after 10 days of looking at it...
Also before soldering the steel bits together, make sure to use a Scotch Brite pad on them a bit to remove corrosion and allow the acid to do its job.

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#32 dc-65x

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Posted 15 March 2011 - 11:24 PM



Pablo, use the front wheels and tires in the upper left of your picture. The bag says "1968 floppy pan inline and up". They are the matching fronts for the Riggen AA rears ;) . Glue the "big O-rings" on the rims with super glue and grind to 3/4" diameter...and your good to go.

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#33 dc-65x

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Posted 16 March 2011 - 09:43 AM

Hi Pablo,

I have a few thoughts that I hope will help with your project. In my limited experience building these old angle winders I have found that the bigger the spur gear the better. It allows me to get a gear mesh and still have the clearance needed between the motor, axle, bearings, bearing tube, etc. The rear tire diameter is the limiting factor in spur gear size.

So, if you were to build your car to 1969 Car Model rules or even 1970 NCC rules you can run a 7/8” diameter rear tire. This would allow you to run a 34 tooth Cox gear (hard to find) or Cobra gear (still available from REH the last time I ordered) and maintain 1/16” track clearance.

Heed the Dokk’s warning about removing all traces of acid flux after soldering the motor brace to the motor. That stuff will rot a chassis faster than the Aliens acid blood burned through the decks of the space ship :shok: :laugh2: . I’ve switched to rosin paste flux and 60/40 rosin core solder for installing motors. It still has to be cleaned up thoroughly though. Oh, and test whatever you use to clean up to see if it will damage the paint on your motor.

Onward Pablo :D

Rick Thigpen
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#34 Jairus

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Posted 16 March 2011 - 10:08 AM

Pablo, I like to think hypothetically when building something like that. As if it were purchased off the rack at a hobby shop in 1969. So the parts should all be from what was available up to that point, hanging on the rack so to speak.

I would pick the B can and build the chassis around that motor. Then any of the wheels up to 1969 would still be available, ie: Riggen, Welden, Champion, Associated. So pick something cool, front and rear, that looks right.
You also need some of those Champion white wires Electric dreams sells and a Jet Flag and a straight Cox 34t spur gear and Blue rubber tires! :)

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#35 Prof. Fate

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Posted 16 March 2011 - 11:28 AM

Hi

I don't know, all that tidy organization with neat little baggied parts sort of creeps me out!

Sheesh, where's the clutter?

Fate
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#36 Pablo

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Posted 19 March 2011 - 09:51 PM

Thanks alot for the help, everybody !!

There will be a delay for a few days as I am busy bringing home the bacon......

Paul Wolcott


#37 Duffy

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Posted 19 March 2011 - 09:54 PM

I like bacon.
Goes good with fish.
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#38 68Caddy

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Posted 19 March 2011 - 10:00 PM

I ate his liver with some fava beans and a nice Chianti. :laugh2:


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#39 endbelldrive

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Posted 19 March 2011 - 11:57 PM

Thanks alot for the help, everybody !!

There will be a delay for a few days as I am busy bringing home the bacon......

Bacon = Good. :wub: Deep fried Bacon Tempura also good :crazy:
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#40 Pablo

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Posted 20 March 2011 - 02:35 AM

The bacon I am referring to is called "moolah" :)
Or "dough" ;)

The McLaren M8 and white Champion wire :dance4: came in the mail today

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#41 Pablo

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Posted 28 March 2011 - 05:51 PM

I found some good McLaren decals......

DSC03012.JPG

Paul Wolcott


#42 Pablo

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Posted 28 March 2011 - 08:17 PM

The advertisement says "All music wire and brass rod parts pre-bent to exact specs".
It may have been like that in 1968 before the kit was compromised.
Today, I'm looking at parts that do not fit.
The .063 wire motor box is off by a country mile.
The axle tube assembly/ball bearings are, however, right on the money.
I mocked up the rear assembly by tacking the tube to the bracket and the motor to the tube, in the approximate correct position.
You can see how far off the 063 box is on the left side.
I'll make a new box.

Thanks to Rick Thigpen and William Fernald for all the help :D

DSC03017.JPG

Paul Wolcott


#43 MSwiss

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Posted 28 March 2011 - 09:59 PM

Just curious. What size is that spur?

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#44 Pablo

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Posted 28 March 2011 - 10:25 PM

34.
The spur that will be used in the final product will be a 32.
Rear wheel OD is 7/8.
A 32 will clear >.063 :)

Paul Wolcott


#45 MrWeiler

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Posted 29 March 2011 - 02:16 AM

At the time, the most popular body was the Russkit Elfin, but I do not know if there are reproductions made. Next would be a Lola T70 or a McLaren M8A or B... these one can find. :)


Bodies 4 beer (Howmet TX) makes a 1/24 repro Russkit Elfin.

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#46 Pablo

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Posted 29 March 2011 - 03:23 PM

Thanks Mike, but I already got the ED McLaren M8A. :)

Paul Wolcott


#47 Hworth08

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Posted 29 March 2011 - 04:52 PM

Unless you narrow the area around the "hole" part of the drop arm, the frame will require a Cox guide shoe. A modern guide can't turn in that drop arm.
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#48 Pablo

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Posted 29 March 2011 - 05:27 PM

Thanks Don, you are WAY ahead of me :laugh2:
With a little trimming on the front of the arm, it looks like a Jet Flag will work fine. If not, I have Cox flags. :)

The motor box was NOT easy, first one in 40 years......but it turned out OK I guess:

DSC03020.JPG

Paul Wolcott


#49 Pablo

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Posted 29 March 2011 - 08:24 PM

DSC03045.JPG

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#50 Bill from NH

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Posted 30 March 2011 - 07:28 AM

Nice job on the motor box! :)
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