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Best jig?


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#1 Preston M

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Posted 22 February 2011 - 10:56 AM

hey everybody

my dad and i want to start building can am and f1, we have experience scratch building, but what is the best jig on the market today? thanks
Preston Meyer
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#2 Joe Mig

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Posted 22 February 2011 - 11:05 AM

hey everybody

my dad and i want to start building can am and f1, we have experience scratch building, but what is the best jig on the market today? thanks


Ricks jig Rgo http://slotblog.net/...autumn-special/
and Mike Swiss has a good one as well. http://www.chicagolandraceway.us/
Take a look at the two of them as it is personal preference.
Joseph Migliaccio. Karma it's a wonderful thing.

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#3 The Groove

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Posted 22 February 2011 - 11:10 AM

Precision slot cars is a sponsor on this blog and will show up on the top of the header about every 10 clicks or www.pslotcar.com willl take you to his web site Dave makes a super retro fixture that comes with the set up wheels, I also suggest the xl long set up axles!!
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#4 Mopar Rob

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Posted 22 February 2011 - 11:36 AM

I've built about 50 retro cars on jigs in the last couple of years. I have a Backtrack Retro Pro and an older R-Geo. Both have there advantages and disadvantages. What I don't like about my Retro Pro is that I cant buid a car less than 3-7/8" on it. That's fine for Retro, but not for building replicas of antique chassis. It's also only 1/2" thick and is starting to crack and I fear it's basically worn out. I like the 3/4" of the R-Geo and but don't like that I have to slip tubing over the pins when using 3/32 axles. The unlimited wheel base options are nice, but don't like the "T" slot going all the way down the block. I would prefer having the "T" slot go maybe 1/2 way.

Basically they're both good so just buy either one.

Rob Hanson

Shops at Mid-America Raceway and uses R-Geo Products


Rob was right!


#5 Rick

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Posted 22 February 2011 - 12:02 PM

It's very difficult to please everyone on every aspect. The one plus factor with my jig is that is can be used to build any scale chassis, any wheelbase and all types of chassis. One jig that will do it all, from womps to eurosport to wing to retro to stamped steel. Check out Rick Thigpens building threads and see it in action on about anything he builds or duplicates. WHen you can get a high 5 from a master builder, I am pleased.

Thanks for your interest.

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#6 Greg VanPeenen

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Posted 22 February 2011 - 12:23 PM

hey everybody

my dad and i want to start building can am and f1, we have experience scratch building, but what is the best jig on the market today? thanks


Preston,

I have an RGO Jig and a PSC Scratch Builder Fixture. I have used both to build Retro cars. As Rob has already said with the RGO Jig you have to slide tubing over the pins for 3 /32 axles other then that it works fine. The Procession Slot Car Scratch Builder is a newer design and more then a simple jig. The Scratch builder is a procession chassis building fixture. I have used the PSC unit to build all kinds of chassis Retro Can-Am, F-1, and Angle Winder Retro-Pro. It will do any Flexi chassis, Spring Steel Euro style chassis, even wing car chassis. There are several good units on the market. What ever Jig/Fixture you get be sure to get a PSC jigging axle. You will get perfect bushing/bearing alignment every time.

I also have a Procession Slot Car custom built Retro Car Tech Fixture.

Regards,
Greg VanPeenen
Michigan Retro Racing Association
Retro Rocks
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#7 Marty Stanley

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Posted 22 February 2011 - 12:40 PM

Wow, it sure sounds like a concensus here - each one of the jigs mentioned has it's merits and it's flaws.

Perhaps it is by popularity of use, but the jig that sits on my workbench and is used more then any other is the R-Geo Super Jig.

Yes, you require a piece of 1/8 inch tubing on the 3/32 axle to make it snug in the jig. If you didn't have that, you would not be able to build a 'Jaildoor' chassis as they use 1/8 inch axles.

Regardless of which one you choose, they all will allow you to build Can-Am, GT-Coupe, Retro Stock Car and F1 chassis that come out square, flat and straight.

Like with any tool, most of the flexibility comes from the user, not the tool. For me, I do like to tinker and come up with ways to make my jig do anything I would like it to do. To that end, I have made myself some spacers that allow me to come up with .028 granularity on wheelbase selection using the R-Geo Super Jig. I have cut some spacers from 5/32 and 3/16 round brass tubing.

The 5/32 tubing placed over each of the 1/8 inch pins allows you to use a 3/32 axle and put the wheelbase at say 4.000 inches. If I want to shorted it by .028, then I remove the front apacer on the front axle locator in the rear of the jig, place a 3/16 spacer over the 5/32 spacer on the rear axle locator in the raar of the jig and I now have 3.972.

If I don't want to use the spacers, then I'll just use a pair of 1/8 bushings (have lots of them laying around) and use 1/8 inch axles and there is not issue.

Like I said, the flexibility is there to build a scratchbuilt chassis, or if I want to set up a flexi or wing chassis, there are enough holes in the R-Geo Super Jig to accomodate any thing I want to do.

If I could only have a single jig, it would be the R-Geo Super Jig.

This is strictly my opinion.
Marty Stanley
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#8 Mopar Rob

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Posted 22 February 2011 - 12:49 PM

Yes, you require a piece of 1/8 inch tubing on the 3/32 axle to make it snug in the jig. If you didn't have that, you would not be able to build a 'Jaildoor' chassis as they use 1/8 inch axles.



Yes you can. Just slide 1/8" OD tubing over the 3/32 axle and slide that into the 1/8" ID tubing used for JD axle tubes.

I'm actually tinking of getting one of Rick's new jigs, but having my friend make some custom pins so I can use a 3/32 axle without the tubing. I've never looked a the PSC piece.

Rob Hanson

Shops at Mid-America Raceway and uses R-Geo Products


Rob was right!


#9 dc-65x

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Posted 22 February 2011 - 01:25 PM

Hi Preston,

I REALLY love my "Rick's Jig" (R-Geo) :wub: . It's worked perfectly for angle winder, full sidewinder or inline.......even dual motors and 4WD:

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#10 Preston M

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Posted 22 February 2011 - 01:29 PM

awesome thanks for the answer guys ill look into each of the mentioned jigs
Preston Meyer
Team R-Geo

#11 Joe Mig

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Posted 22 February 2011 - 01:56 PM

I like the tube over the pin as it gives you more options and all you have to do is use a alligator clip to hold the axle to the pin with or without the tube if you just ues one.
Joseph Migliaccio. Karma it's a wonderful thing.

"Drive it like you're in it!!!"

"If everything feels under control... you are not going fast enough!"

Some people are like Slinkies... they're really good for nothing... but they still bring a smile to your face when you push them down a flight of stairs.

#12 MantaRay

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Posted 22 February 2011 - 02:17 PM

Mr. Thigpen.........What is the black material you are using for clamping/hold downs?
Ray Price
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#13 Rick

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Posted 22 February 2011 - 03:13 PM

Mr. Thigpen.........What is the black material you are using for clamping/hold downs?

Ray, that is banding iron. It's available in many widths and thicknesses and thrown away by the ton. I'll send you some............

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#14 dc-65x

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Posted 22 February 2011 - 04:01 PM

Mr. Thigpen.........What is the black material you are using for clamping/hold downs?

Hi Ray,

Actually it's spring steel feeler gage stock but banding iron is a good idea Rick. It's blackened from rusting and cleaning. I think I saw Mike Steube use it in his scratch building video.

Rick Thigpen
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#15 One27ray

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Posted 22 February 2011 - 04:32 PM

Rick :good:

Enjoying this thread eminently, blacken banding strapping material? We throw out it by the truck loads lol. I guess I'll have to start saving some :dash2: thanks for the tip :D

i-ray
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#16 NJ SpeedZone

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Posted 23 February 2011 - 01:15 PM

Preston Call me I have this stuff in stock now and deliver this weekend Jay K.
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