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Hawk 7 gearing


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#1 Boots

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Posted 15 June 2011 - 10:19 AM

Hi Folks,

I'm running a Ken O Racing "Turbo Blast Plus" Hawk 7 (rezapped magnets, slow break-in and "pressure relieved" armature - what is that?) in a Mossetti standard steel chassis.
3/32" hollow axle, 64 pitch gearing at the moment is 11/36. HD GTP body with "sticker" front tires, and .760-.740" JK natural rubber or Alpha Piranha rear tires. Track is a 117', eight-lane, "U" shaped, banked roadcourse. Track voltage is 12-13v.

I've barely run this package but am happy so far.

Any and all help in the best gear ratio for the application would be greatly appreciated. I'll take reliability and long life over top speed.

Is it worth buying a more "developed" (i.e. blueprinted, etc.) Hawk 7 for this type of situation? Money is an object, so I'm trying to spend what is needed (up to $20/motor), but not go nuts ($40-50) if it won't make that much difference.

Cheers,

Boots Langley
Richard "Boots" Langley




#2 DOCinCocoa

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Posted 15 June 2011 - 11:40 AM

The recommended gearing is 11/35 (3.18:1)... so you are close with your 11:36 (3.27:1). However, the track you race on is on the short side. Depending on the actual length of the longest straightaway and the amount of brakes that you like, I would recommend a little deeper gearing like 11:37 (3.36:1) or even a 10 tooth pinion, like 10:35 (3.50:1).

I hope that this helps. The deeper the gearing, the cooler the motor should run, and therefore, last longer for you.
Doc Dougherty
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My Series Spring 2016 4" NASCAR, JK LMP State Champion, and Endurance State Champion
My Series 2015 4" NASCAR, GTP and Endurance State Champion
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#3 PCH Parts Express

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Posted 15 June 2011 - 12:24 PM

You may want to ask Coach or Mike (the two guys that run the club) what they are running.
Scott Salzberg
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#4 gascarnut

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Posted 15 June 2011 - 01:30 PM

I'm running a Ken O Racing "Turbo Blast Plus" Hawk 7 (rezapped magnets, slow break-in and "pressure relieved" armature - what is that?)

What is that? Snake oil, for the most part.
  • Samiam likes this

Dennis Samson
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#5 Bill from NH

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Posted 15 June 2011 - 02:48 PM

What is that? Snake oil, for the most part.

Also known as ADP (added dealer profit). :)

Bill Fernald

 

You have to be odd to be #1. :laugh2: 


#6 Boots

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Posted 15 June 2011 - 08:15 PM

Thanks Doc,
I'll work on those gearing changes ASAP.

Here's a shout out, and Thanks, to Mike Tucker and Mike "Coach" Crone at El Cajon Raceway, El Cajon, Ca. They have been instrumental in my newest racing venture.
It's been a fun 6 weeks (depite a few bad "mechanicals") and I hope for many more.
I couldn't have done anything with these cars without their help.

Nonetheless, there are many learned opinions out there and useful info to be gathered.

As I just said to another slot car fan; "I can't lead if I have to follow".
I can always run what the Jones run, but I like to be different and it's always been rewarding to be so, as long as I do my homework and pay the dues.

Good luck in your own racing.
cheers
Boots Langley

PS; the question I asked "what is this" was referring to the centering of the armature. How can they do that without opening the can?
Or is it they just pick a good motor from the bunch, that is built right to begin with?
That's one reason I spent a little more.
At least, the "probability" of being a good one goes up due to being hand picked, as opposed to picking a needle in the haystack solution. I just can't afford a dead soldier or I'm not racing that week! Money's tight, so I need the best bang for my buck.
Richard "Boots" Langley

#7 Bill from NH

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Posted 15 June 2011 - 08:36 PM

I'd ask Ken how he recenters the arms while the can is not open. I'd also ask him what he rezaps the neo magnets with. :scratch_one-s_head: Let us know what he says. :)

Bill Fernald

 

You have to be odd to be #1. :laugh2: 


#8 gascarnut

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Posted 15 June 2011 - 10:14 PM

Sometimes you can get a little extra play on the comm side of these motors by tapping the end of the shaft to help seat the bushing better in the endplate, but its a balance between hitting it hard enough to move the bushing but not too hard that it damages the comm.

Dennis Samson
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#9 Boots

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Posted 17 June 2011 - 08:23 AM

Thanks gascarnut,

that's exactly the type of technical response I was looking for.

So, in fact, THAT gentle persuasion, COULD, give Added Value, due to some very smart thinking/experience, to a standard motor out of the box.

Q? How do you look inside that little bugger (Falcon 7/Hawk 7), to see what you are doing?

I have read some/much, about motor zapping, but, there's the Nut in Me that still says: "Zap it FOOL"! ;-)

So, someone who knows this slot car craft from "Birth":, might just throw down a decent product.
He's/Ken O Racing treating me right so far.
cheers
Boots

PS; OBTW (thanks for all your help!); at tonight's Novice Flexi race, my #2 car became my #1 car!!!!!!

X2 3rd's (of 7) with the Used/eBay $13/+ New Oilites "Etc", Mossetti Titan/KOR "Zapped Hawk 7 & Alpha Piranha's, against the Cheetah 7/11/21/ add infinum Fleet/Falcon7/JK 8701P's!.
Track was just cleaned.
OH, the Humanity.
Mostly , ME!!!!!!!
How do you straighten hollow axles, if that can be done?


Richard "Boots" Langley

#10 JohnnySlotcar

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Posted 17 June 2011 - 09:00 AM

Throw it STRAIGHT into the garbage can!!!
John Austin

#11 Boots

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Posted 22 August 2011 - 07:53 PM

Hi Guys,
Just thought I'd update my Hawk 7 status.

I'm still running the original (KOR Assassin), now well over a month old, 2500 laps and counting!

It, with my Mossetti Titan, is running on pace with the front runners (Cheetah whatever & Falcon 7) in Novice HD GTP Flexi's.

Last Thurs, the three front runners went 4.17.9 (me), 4.173 (the dethroned Novice record holder) and 4.171 (New Novice Record, by a hard runner in a New JK Cheetah 7 with alloy pans & Falcon 7).

I've followed Doc's suggestions of short gearing and the motor comes off the track such that I can put my thumb on it and not flinch. It's warm, even very warm, but not blister hot.

There is still about 1/2mm of brushes let!!

I'm buying a Laser Infrared Digital Thermometer to start reading motor, braids and such temps. Oppps, better not let Coach hear that!! ;-)

See you at the races!
cheers
Boots
Richard "Boots" Langley

#12 slotcarone

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Posted 22 August 2011 - 08:42 PM

:D Consider yourself lucky--you just happen to get a "good" one!!! That's all!!

Mike Katz

Scratchbuilts forever!!


#13 Boots

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Posted 29 September 2011 - 03:40 AM

Hi guys,
thanks for all your input over the last few months.

I think I can now give a complete report on the KOR Hawk 7 Assassin I've used (see chassis package above).

Yes, slotcarone, I do consider myself lucky, but I also feel I (mostly) make my own luck. (in slot cars anyway!!) ;-)

That ($18.99 + S/H) KOR Hawk 7 Assassin went "3300" laps before I retired it because I could see no sign of brushes anymore. It still ran bitchin, but I didn't want a mid race failure when I could see "the end".
Maintanence;
I would lube the pinion gear bushing (and axle bearings) every heat. The brushes end bushing about once or twice a night. Once in awhile, I'd flush the motor out with electric motor spray. I don't use com drops on the brushes, but I do liberally on the braids, which are lasting forever.

It has been a front runner, and right on top of the Novice lap record (please consider the fact I've only been at this for about 4 months now. This was the 2nd motor I've ever bought, but I did my homework).

I then installed a standard Hawk 7, in the exact same setup, and lost .2-.3 of a second!!!!!!!! Nothing I've done would improve that, so I bought another KOR (Zapped and arm centered) Hawk 7 Assassin.

Voila, right back to where I was.

I'll stand by the claim that I think KOR offers a good product (No, I'm not a "Shill" for KOR, I just appreciate it when I get a good product)..

I'm looking forward to running it more, but I missed the setup last Thurs PM, so for the first time, I ran a Pro Slot Puppy Dog, in my backup Champion Turbo Flex.
I celebrated it's debute with a 4 lane Win and 4 lane 2nd.
I love how high it winds out. It's like apples and oranges though with how much "magnet" the PD has over the Hawk 7/Falcon 7. It takes a completely different driving style it seems.

Gearing;
Something that Doc pointed out has been very helpful. I don't step on the gearing; ie, take it deep into the low numbers. As an FYI; I DO run the smallest tires I can legally start the race with. My car(s) only seem to get better as the tires wear from there.

I'm running a 117' short road course, but I can take some guy's cars off the track, and they are geared so low (numerically), I can't get them within 6 inches of my cheek, without going "Wow, that's hot".

My cars, can be brought within an inch, and feel the heat, but not extreme like some guys.

Granted, some of those guys with Hot motors (literally) are front runners, and go through motors like potato chips, but my retirement/SSD budget demands a fast but long lasting package.

Good luck with your own racing.

You So Cal racers need to come down to San Diego/El Cajon (Novice Racing; Thurs PM, 4-10PM), and run the "Teal Terror".

Here's my "Fleet" at the moment. I want to start a thread on HD GTP Coupes vs Spiders.
cheers
Boots Langley

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Richard "Boots" Langley

#14 eAddict

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Posted 27 June 2017 - 04:16 PM

The recommended gearing is 11/35 (3.18:1)... so you are close with your 11:36 (3.27:1). However, the track you race on is on the short side. Depending on the actual length of the longest straightaway and the amount of brakes that you like, I would recommend a little deeper gearing like 11:37 (3.36:1) or even a 10 tooth pinion, like 10:35 (3.50:1).

I hope that this helps. The deeper the gearing, the cooler the motor should run, and therefore, last longer for you.

So what if we have really short tracks? 50-80 feet?  Longest straight on the 80' is about 18'.  Other ones 10-14'.   Gearing is where I really have issues and appreciate any help I can get.







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