31 replies to this topic

[One_Track_Mind]

Here's a chassis I started building a couple of weeks ago, been lazy, and the 'siffer' mode was in place a lot times just sitting and staring wondering what I was going to do next?

Tom Lauterbach sent me some of the twisted rails awhile back for some future projects, and when I started to use these they were so wide, I had to use a 3/4" F-1 bracket, to stay under that 3.125 width. The rails are .078, while all the brass pans are made from .032 excluding the old Phaze3 .047 partial drop arm. Hosts a standard 4+1 design.(4" W/B & 1" guide lead)

I'm anxious to see how this car handles, as I've built one Can-am in the past that hosted an F-1 bracket as a tri-pod design and it run really swell, Steve Ploskunak drove that car at the R4/4 and was very impressed. I was too! he even done better then myself!

[Marty Stanley]

Brian,

Very cool!

I think you will find it likes slightly stickier tires. If everyone is running treated, you will be running untreateds.

The thing I noticed about the chassis I built like that is it is very quiet.

Let me know how it works.


Marty

[One_Track_Mind]

Hi Marty,
Did your chassis use the narrow motor bracket? Tony P. said once that one of his best handling chassis used an F-1 bracket.
Will keep you posted once the parts are placed on it.

[Mopar Rob]

Who makes that front piece, your tumbler made it nice and shiny how long was it in there?

[One_Track_Mind]

Hi ROB!
It's a vintage Phaze3 drop arm, shortened with some .032 outrigger pans added.
The chassis stayed in the tumbler for 24 hrs.

[One_Track_Mind]

The little small pans attached to the front piece come from the pan cut-outs.

[Dennis Krivacek]

Nice build Brian.
Good to see that you're making the most of your convalescing!

[One_Track_Mind]

Thanks, Denny!
Still have till 7-11-11 to build more chassis!

[Marty Stanley]

Brian,

Yes, I did use one of the .750 motor brackets on my build.

Here's a photo:



I just need some more track time, but I think it's going to be outstanding.

[One_Track_Mind]

Good looking build Marty. I've yet to have the nerve to build a lightweight chassis. This one appears that way.

[Marty Stanley]

Brian,

Looks are deceiving. Those .078 rails are pretty stout. When you add those 'angle rails' in the front, it is a very strong build.

I used .032 brass strips for the pans and ready to race it's a 104 gram car. Not really a lightweight.

There are several I have made that need to have weight added to make 100 grams and they work just fine.

Try it, you might like it!

[Mad Mexican]

Amigo Brian,

Very nice Twist-A-Rails. When are you going to test it out ? It should do well like the Bandes re-build, keep us in the loop.

Adios Amigos

[Marty Stanley]

Brian,

If you would like, I can bend you up a set of main rails like in this chassis:

Now if you want to try something interesting, this is an offer you don't want to pass up.

[One_Track_Mind]

WOW! Marty!
Thatsa' real Nice!

Try something different? You betcha!

Will send a pm with my info.

Thank you.

BTW: my chassis weighs in at 109.1 grams, with running gear and tires. No body or Interior.

[Lucky Me]

Here's a chassis I started building a couple of weeks ago, been lazy, and the 'siffer' mode was in place a lot times just sitting and staring wondering what I was going to do next?

Tom Lauterbach sent me some of the twisted rails awhile back for some future projects, and when I started to use these they were so wide, I had to use a 3/4" F-1 bracket, to stay under that 3.125 width. The rails are .078, while all the brass pans are made from .032 excluding the old Phaze3 .047 partial drop arm. Hosts a standard 4+1 design.(4" W/B & 1" guide lead)

I'm anxious to see how this car handles, as I've built one Can-am in the past that hosted an F-1 bracket as a tri-pod design and it run really swell, Steve Ploskunak drove that car at the R4/4 and was very impressed. I was too! he even done better then myself!

Nice build Brian,

As far as the 3/4 " F1 bracket's, all I can say is 90% of all my Can Am cars are equipped with a 3/4 " bracket, most recently the build I just finished using Brian Cox's new plate "Z2CA" I used Mike Swiss' 3/4 Versa bracket. (zero offset) and I love it. Has to be the nicest 3/4 bracket I have used yet. and at .040" thick
it is strong and gives you a little more "bite" if you are using motor screws as opposed to .050 it make's the bite from the screw a little more challenging as they are short to begin with and having to compensate .050" from the length of an already short screw doesn't leave much for grabbing the motor.
just my 2 cent's.

3/4 brackets in my opinion are a much better choice for a tri-pod build as it allows the builder a better angle "tighter" in the rear, again, my 2 cent's and others may have different opinion's. fwiw.

[One_Track_Mind]

Hi Rick,
Seen your chassis and read the preliminary testing. My bracket is made from .050 and I feel as though it's the best bracket I have used. And,Yes! I use screws for the motor.

What puzzles me is your saying using a .040 bracket your motor screws are still short?
Maybe? There too short to start with? I use an M2 X M4 socket head cap screw. So it's a 1.5mm wrench. There perfect length and require cutting them a tad if using say a JK bracket or REH

Yea! I have got good luck thus far in building chassis with the narrower bracket. Hope it holds true with this one!

[Marty Stanley]

Brian,

A 3/32 axle spacer under the head of the screw will keep them all the same length. I just got tired of cutting them.

[One_Track_Mind]

Ahhh! There you go Marty. I simply don't use the thinner brackets
Anymore, so all my screws stay 4mm in length.

[One_Track_Mind]

Ahhh! There you go Marty. I simply don't use the thinner brackets
Anymore, so all my screws stay 4mm in length.

Edit: I do use the WRP bracket from to time.

[Lucky Me]

Hi Rick,
Seen your chassis and read the preliminary testing. My bracket is made from .050 and I feel as though it's the best bracket I have used. And,Yes! I use screws for the motor.

What puzzles me is your saying using a .040 bracket your motor screws are still short?
Maybe? There too short to start with? I use an M2 X M4 socket head cap screw. So it's a 1.5mm wrench. There perfect length and require cutting them a tad if using say a JK bracket or REH

Yea! I have got good luck thus far in building chassis with the narrower bracket. Hope it holds true with this one!

Brian, guess I should have clarified the type of screw being used, as I use screws also, I use the parma self tappers, got away from the machine screws as they seemed to strip more easily. all i was saying with the parma screws is that an .050 bracket doesn't leave much for the parma screw to grab especially if the motor can is getting worn a bit. those few extra thous' of a .040 bracket help's. Now if the maker's of the .050 brackets out there would counter bore the screw holes say .015" then at least my complaint's would be resolved. not a big deal, just one of my own pet peave's with .050 brackets, other than that no issues.

[Dominator]

Not to take away from Brian's thread, but that is some twisted wire you have there Marty! Please update us when you have tried it. It will be interesting to hear how it compares to the original twista rails.

[One_Track_Mind]

Hey Dom,
That's ok! I don't mind at all.
But let's talk about Marty's twisted mind er.. I mean Rails a minute. As, I'm still trying to figure out myself IF it does indeed work.

It's a Torsion frame with twisted rails,(Flex) in the middle.
From the couple I have built, it seams like a good thing for the rear steer aspect.

Viewing Marty's build, I don't think it would have this advantage?

But,Heck what do I know, I haven't run either one I built so no since in me being a critic!

Help us out Marty! what gives in that chassis?!


Hi Rick,
Yea. I hear what your saying about the motor screws. Too each his own. From my personal experience the Parma screws stripped the motor can sooner then a machine screw.
Also,If it helps or Not? maybe somone else knows. But,in my collection of bits and pieces of stuff. I do have a few of them self tapping screws just like a Parma,that are longer then what you can buy now. Not sure? where they come from or whom made them?
I'll see what I can dig up for you. k?

[Marty Stanley]

Right now, my testing time is kind of limited. I'm not getting out as I once did. But with the limited testing I have had the opportunity to do, I like what I'm seeing. The twisted rail, which I call "Wacky Wire" is showing a lot of promise. I have had to go to natural tires to get it to work, but it sure comes out of a turn very hard. It has a slight different driving style and once you get used to it, can put some super laps down.

I want to spend some track time with it and sort it all out. Thus far, I'm liking what I'm seeing.

[Duffy]

Now if the maker's of the .050 brackets out there would counter bore the screw holes say .015" then at least my complaint's would be resolved.

Hi Rick, Yea. I hear what your saying about the motor screws. Too each his own. From my personal experience the Parma screws stripped the motor can sooner then a machine screw. Also,If it helps or Not? maybe somone else knows.

Jay Kisling was bombasting on this subject at North-South (hey, if we can eat "verb food" like Wraps or Stir-Fry, I figure I got the right to do "adjective actions!")--he believes the self-tapping screws distort the can face and might lead to binding in the can bushing.

If that's so, it don't speak so highly of the integrity of the face, the way I look at it. There're two things going on there--presuming a flat face on both can and bracket (and, don't ever just take these for granted), you're still getting one sliver edge of thread engaging the thickness of the can flange, one-half turn of the thread max. That & the center boss holding the motor in place--sounds risky, but some of us do it all the time. (an M2 screw, on the other hand, gives you just under two full threads engagement.)

But, after Jay said this, I got to thinking about it. --& I've been leaning more toward using mach. screws to set in place while I'm fitting everything up, and then soldering.

After Rick M. said the thing about counterboring, I priced small c'bores today--found something I could press into service for ~$15, but I'd like a special one with tighter clearances...and with something this small, often operating in interrupted cuts close to the ears of the bracket, your risk of breakage goes way up; and that gets expensive. The manufacturers aren't just gonna give that away, and I wonder where the added expense for this little luxury becomes the deal-breaker.

Another reason to think hard about M2 x M4 screws.

Duffy

[MSwiss]

My opinion on Retro motor mounting screws.

The proper size metric machine screws are the way to go with
using blue Loctite and not over cranking the screws.

Tacking the motor in with solder is also wise.

The guys who usually neither Loctite or use solder are the ones
to say "I've only had my motor come loose X amount of times".

Any amount of times is easily preventable.