Jump to content




Photo

Holy smokes! A tumbling we will go!


  • Please log in to reply
243 replies to this topic

#101 Rob968323

Rob968323

    On The Lead Lap

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 255 posts
  • Joined: 16-October 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Union, NJ

Posted 01 May 2008 - 08:37 AM

Ahhh... that tangerine smell!! :D

Rob Kurylo

"Capital Idea"





#102 tonyp

tonyp

    Grand Champion Poster

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 14,193 posts
  • Joined: 12-February 07
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Sanford, FL, land of lizards and big roaches

Posted 01 May 2008 - 08:51 AM

Rob, by the time you could buy it they had made it safe. LOL...

"And if my thought-dreams could be seen they'd probably put my head in a guillotine. But it's alright, Ma, it's life, and life only." - Dylan

1965 "Evil Bucks Racer" Team
Revtech Team Trinity
Retro East co-founder
American King track single lap world record holder & 40 minute total lap record
First IM Nationals Champion
Arco Champion
Car Model Magazine Series Amateur Champion
2016 ORS Anglewinder Constructors Championsh
ip


#103 GTPJoe

GTPJoe

    On The Lead Lap

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 448 posts
  • Joined: 26-July 07
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Manch-Vegas NH

Posted 01 May 2008 - 12:39 PM

Hi Pablo!

A while back, and I do mean a WHILE, I was in the metal finishing business. From what I remember the media you want is a steel media called "pins". Metal media will deburr and burnish nicely. Pins in particular get into tight places and clean and polish without getting lodged. HERE's a local place that sells the stuff. Probably not cheap, but lasts forever with a little care.

You'd think metal would be too tough to use but we made jewelry and even thin delicate pieces that I could bend in my hand would come out smooth and shiny!

Check it out...
GTP Joe Connolly

In theory there is no difference between theory and practice.
In practice there is.

#104 slotbaker

slotbaker

    Dan Gurney Fan

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,396 posts
  • Joined: 16-February 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Sydney, Australia.

Posted 01 May 2008 - 05:23 PM

I tried "brickies" sand with dishwashing liquid in the tumbler on some Cox mag stuff and an old brass frame. Topped up with water to cover the lot.

It worked OK on external surfaces, but just hung inside the wheels, so didn't work too good there. The abrasive (grit/soda) blasting is still the best thing for the Cox mag bit.

I'm pretty sure all sand would give similar results.

The brass turned out OK, too, but not quite as shiny as with media. It ended up nice and smooth with an even finish.

:)

Steve King


#105 Dave Larsen

Dave Larsen

    Race Leader

  • Partial Member
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 581 posts
  • Joined: 05-October 07
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Harbo's Black Track

Posted 24 May 2008 - 06:34 PM

Hey Rick, and others :bye: ...

I have tumbled another flying "A" chassis, and it came out great :sun_bespectacled: you might want to give this a try for a "solution" :wizard: no rust, no water spots for obvious reasons :ok: and it leaves a very real-looking finish. I'm not one for the "polished" look on a chassis, never seen one that was raced Posted Image look like that. As we all know, it comes down to taste, and what one likes. :ok: I dumped a tablespoon in and let the tumbler do its thing. This stuff :secret: has been around for a long, long time. It works!!! :ok:

Posted Image

Next, I will start getting after Dan's "Pro" cars. :on_the_quiet2:
Dave Larsen ..... AKA "The Vitter"  :diablo:..... Big or Small ..... I build them all   :sun_bespectacled:

#106 68Caddy

68Caddy

    The Direktor

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 10,546 posts
  • Joined: 17-March 07
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:CA, by the beach of course

Posted 24 May 2008 - 10:48 PM

That's what I would say, Dip It :laugh2:
Saturday night of course I would polish up the hardware, wouldn't you? :laugh2:
Vit you just made me think, that's what I need to polish my plastic chassis.
Have to say, you are absolutely right that things that are going down the race ways don't look like jewelry ;)
Yea, I like pretty things but I like fast cars.
Thanks for sharing that. ;)

Nesta aka 68CaddyPosted Image
- Gabriel
Nesta Szabo

In this bright future you can't forget your past.
BMW (Bob Marley and the Wailers)

United we stand and divided we fall, the Legends are complete.
I'm racing the best here at BP but Father time is much better then all of us united.
Not a snob in this hobby, after all it will be gone, if we keep on going like we do, and I have nothing to prove so I keep on posting because I have nothing to gain.
It's our duty to remember the past so we can have a future.

Pistol Pete you will always be in my memory.

#107 dc-65x

dc-65x

    Grand Champion Poster

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 5,221 posts
  • Joined: 14-February 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Captain Rick: The only vintage slot car nut in SW Oregon?

Posted 25 May 2008 - 10:26 AM

Hi Dave,

That chassis lools great :wub: !

The problem I was having with corrosion wouldn't show up right away but rather several weeks to a month later. Just to be safe keep you eyes open for little spots on the steel rails. You really have to look closely to catch them before they start to eat into the steel. This was happening even after the chassis had been soaked in WD40 for 24 hours and wiped dry :blink: :shok: .

Anyway, I'd sure appreciate it if you could report back here after a month or so :) .

Thanks for showing us the Flying "A" chassis and I can't wait to see Dan's.

Rick Thigpen
Check out Steve Okeefe's great web site at its new home here at Slotblog:
The Independent Scratchbuilder
There's much more to come...


#108 TSR

TSR

    The Dokktor is IN

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 41,740 posts
  • Joined: 02-February 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Mexifornia

Posted 25 May 2008 - 11:56 AM

I'm not one for the "polished" look on a chassis, never seen one that was raced

Indeed, the finish by tumbling is quite different from what the builders did then. But it is a fabulous way of getting rid of the brass corrosion without damaging the chassis. What I do AFTER the tumbling is to bring back the original finish by using a steel wire brush and a Brill-O pad as we used to in the old days. Several builders also used a criss-cross pattern at the bottom of the chassis, using rough sand paper to create the pattern, then the Brill-O pad to smooth it out.

But when building a replica, the polished look is hard to beat!

As far as rusting steel rails, the solution for me when building a replica is to tin the steel wire first. Once assembled, the chassis is tumbled and the tin "plating" stays thick enough (a few microns really!) to withstand the process. Hence no rust. :)

Dave, nice idea to include the Dip-It. That stuff REALLY works!

#109 Dave Larsen

Dave Larsen

    Race Leader

  • Partial Member
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 581 posts
  • Joined: 05-October 07
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Harbo's Black Track

Posted 25 May 2008 - 03:53 PM

Hi Rick :bye:

Here's a picture of the FIRST flying "A" chassis I did in my first post, after I got my tumbler :wub: It's a great way to clean "OLD" chassis :dance3: that's for sure! I do beleive it's been in that baggie for over a month, since it was tumbled in "DIP IT," which I used right from the start when I got my tumbler. :good: I don't spend the time to tumble a "new" chassis, because I do it the "old way" as Philippe describes when I complete a chassis :sarcastic_hand:. There are some that know how long it takes me to do a chassis, and tumbling a "new" one will only add to their delay of receiving the goods. :whistle3: :whistle3: :whistle3:

The chassis was air dried, and them wiped down with a towel. No oil of any kind was used to prevent RUST :dash2: these pictures were taken today...

Posted Image

Posted Image

A tip: :to_become_senile: When tumbling a "OLD SCHOOL" SPRING STEEL center section with a BRASS drop arm and bat pans style chassis. You need to clean the center section as best as you can by hand :aggressive: be it with a wire wheel on a Dremel, or with a :help: pad. The simple reason when you tumble this chassis, is that the brass will be to your liking, and the center section will not be. :shok: This just might have to do with the different hardness of the two types of metals. :scratch_one-s_head:
Dave Larsen ..... AKA "The Vitter"  :diablo:..... Big or Small ..... I build them all   :sun_bespectacled:

#110 dc-65x

dc-65x

    Grand Champion Poster

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 5,221 posts
  • Joined: 14-February 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Captain Rick: The only vintage slot car nut in SW Oregon?

Posted 25 May 2008 - 07:44 PM

Thanks for the update, Dave. Looks like corrosion is not a problem :D .

One more question if I might. Does the Dip-It explode in blast of foam when you take the lid off the tumbler?

Thanks again, Dave.

Rick Thigpen
Check out Steve Okeefe's great web site at its new home here at Slotblog:
The Independent Scratchbuilder
There's much more to come...


#111 Dave Larsen

Dave Larsen

    Race Leader

  • Partial Member
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 581 posts
  • Joined: 05-October 07
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Harbo's Black Track

Posted 26 May 2008 - 02:54 PM

Shoot, Rick... I forgot to tell you. :prankster2:

Yep, it's like opening up a shaken-up can of Pepsi. :laugh2: I'm very sorry, Rick, I forgot to mention to let it calm down for a few minutes after tumbling and then crack the lid.

As always, Rick :drinks:

Regards,

Dave :pardon:
Dave Larsen ..... AKA "The Vitter"  :diablo:..... Big or Small ..... I build them all   :sun_bespectacled:

#112 tonyp

tonyp

    Grand Champion Poster

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 14,193 posts
  • Joined: 12-February 07
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Sanford, FL, land of lizards and big roaches

Posted 27 May 2008 - 07:14 AM

I am going to have to try that. I like the finish better than the really shiny one.

Thanks for the info.

"And if my thought-dreams could be seen they'd probably put my head in a guillotine. But it's alright, Ma, it's life, and life only." - Dylan

1965 "Evil Bucks Racer" Team
Revtech Team Trinity
Retro East co-founder
American King track single lap world record holder & 40 minute total lap record
First IM Nationals Champion
Arco Champion
Car Model Magazine Series Amateur Champion
2016 ORS Anglewinder Constructors Championsh
ip


#113 Pablo

Pablo

    Builder

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 13,954 posts
  • Joined: 20-February 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Johnson Bayou, Mississippi Gulf Coast

Posted 27 May 2008 - 12:43 PM

My experiments all failed.

Sand (mixed into the ceramic media) cleaned the crevices well, but clogged hinges and even just a handful mades the motor run warmer than normal. Ceramic media STILL clogged the axle tubes.

Lizard Litter (walnut) (mixed in with the ceramic media) didn't seem to clean any better, and clogged hinges and crevices. Ceramic media STILL clogged axle tubes.

Haven't tried steel pins yet but it sounds expensive.

Arm & Hammer laundry liquid is unimpressive.

Next experiment: back to regular ceramic media and automatic dishwashing soap. :curtsey:
Paul Wolcott

#114 tonyp

tonyp

    Grand Champion Poster

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 14,193 posts
  • Joined: 12-February 07
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Sanford, FL, land of lizards and big roaches

Posted 27 May 2008 - 01:01 PM

It's amazing where those ceramic bits will wedge themselves.

"And if my thought-dreams could be seen they'd probably put my head in a guillotine. But it's alright, Ma, it's life, and life only." - Dylan

1965 "Evil Bucks Racer" Team
Revtech Team Trinity
Retro East co-founder
American King track single lap world record holder & 40 minute total lap record
First IM Nationals Champion
Arco Champion
Car Model Magazine Series Amateur Champion
2016 ORS Anglewinder Constructors Championsh
ip


#115 bobo

bobo

    a dearly-missed departed member

  • Member at Peace
  • Pip
  • 38 posts
  • Joined: 13-October 07
  • Gender:Female
  • Location:Wauconda, IL

Posted 27 May 2008 - 06:12 PM

All,

To help keep the foaming to a minimum, put int some "anti-foaming" liquid used for carpet cleaning.
Bob Oaks
8/29/50-4/26/12
Requiescat in Pace

#116 Don Weaver

Don Weaver

    Checkered Flag in Hand

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,364 posts
  • Joined: 26-October 07
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Lexington. SC

Posted 27 May 2008 - 06:32 PM

It's amazing where those ceramic bits will wedge themselves.

I put an axle through the bushings/tube and stick some tape on the ends of the axle to keep it from slipping out. This keeps the ceramic media from getting into the tubes.

Don Weaver

Don Weaver

​A slot car racer who never grew up!

 

The supply of government exceeds demand.
L.H. Lapham
 
If the brain-eating amoeba invades Washington
it will starve to death...


#117 Phil Irvin

Phil Irvin

    Checkered Flag in Hand

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,764 posts
  • Joined: 21-July 08
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Wesley Chapel, FL

Posted 04 September 2008 - 09:31 PM

Back when I was a young man, I remember a machine shop had made a tumbler and they used a small 3/16" to 1/4" three-pointed media and used auto trans fluid (ATF) rather than water. I saw some of the parts that had been tumbled and they were bright but not shiney. The points of the media did get in the small slots and corners pretty well.

Idea? ;)

Phil

#118 Jerry Ward

Jerry Ward

    a dearly-missed departed member

  • Member at Peace
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 558 posts
  • Joined: 13-April 08
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Sandusky, OH

Posted 23 September 2008 - 01:59 PM

Hi Guys,

I have a few questions about tumbling chassis. On average how long do you tumble a chassis? And have you or has anyone tried to do other chassis besides brass, one like spring steel or your JK Cheetah 7 or Flexi chassis? Will this process clean them, too? :)

Thanks,

Jerry
Jerry Ward
2/23/51-5/20/14
Requiescat in Pace

#119 Pablo

Pablo

    Builder

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 13,954 posts
  • Joined: 20-February 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Johnson Bayou, Mississippi Gulf Coast

Posted 23 September 2008 - 04:08 PM

Jerry,

I have tumbled scratchbuilt brass chassis up to eight hours no problemo and they just keep getting better.

Steel chassis I have not tried. Why polish something you can buy for $20 ?
Paul Wolcott

#120 Rick

Rick

    Grand Champion Poster

  • Partial Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 8,843 posts
  • Joined: 17-February 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:PA

Posted 23 September 2008 - 07:07 PM

Fabric softener should be a good anti-foam agent to add. Probably a tablespoon or two would do the trick?
Rick Bennardo
"Professional Tinkerer"
scrgeo@comcast.net
R-Geo Products
LIKE my Facebook page for updates, new releases, and sales: Rgeo Slots...
 
Lead! The easy equalizer...

#121 Jerry Ward

Jerry Ward

    a dearly-missed departed member

  • Member at Peace
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 558 posts
  • Joined: 13-April 08
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Sandusky, OH

Posted 23 September 2008 - 07:44 PM

Thanks. Here we don't do much in the summer when tracks are closed so I take most of my cars apart and the chassis are real rough-looking so I thought I might clean then up some. Sometimes you get or got one that works real well and you don't want to get rid of it.

Thanks for the info. I didn't know you tumbled them that long.

Just wondered if anyone tried a steel chassis may give it a try as soon as I get my tumbler getting the AR-12 from Cabelas.

Thanks,

Jerry :rolleyes:
Jerry Ward
2/23/51-5/20/14
Requiescat in Pace

#122 Bill from NH

Bill from NH

    Age scrubs away speed!

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 9,707 posts
  • Joined: 02-August 07
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:New Boston, NH

Posted 23 September 2008 - 08:09 PM

While not done with a tumbler, I've seen spring steel Eurosport chassis that were polished to a mirror shine using Mother's Mag & Aluminum Polish. :)
Bill Fernald
 
"I'm not short, I'm just down to earth."

#123 Pablo

Pablo

    Builder

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 13,954 posts
  • Joined: 20-February 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Johnson Bayou, Mississippi Gulf Coast

Posted 24 September 2008 - 07:07 PM

OK Jerry, I understand.

I use Buffalo Arms ceramic media and the liquid soap that came with it, in my Thumlers Tumbler.

I think eight hours on your steel chassis would work well. Just remember, one chassis at a time!! :shok:
Paul Wolcott

#124 Jerry Ward

Jerry Ward

    a dearly-missed departed member

  • Member at Peace
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 558 posts
  • Joined: 13-April 08
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Sandusky, OH

Posted 24 September 2008 - 08:43 PM

OK, thanks for the info, Paul.

Cabela's sells a kit of corn cob media with brass polish, iteM XJ-214211. The polish is a liquid. That's the only one they sell. Should I give that a try or just use the stuff you use? The kit is $13.00.

Think I will spray them with WD40 after I air blow dry them so they don't rust up on me.

Is there a web site for Buffalo Arms and their ceramic media and soap? Is that a kit, too? And you're right - one at a time!

Thanks again,

Jerry :D
Jerry Ward
2/23/51-5/20/14
Requiescat in Pace

#125 Pablo

Pablo

    Builder

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 13,954 posts
  • Joined: 20-February 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Johnson Bayou, Mississippi Gulf Coast

Posted 24 September 2008 - 08:58 PM

Jerry, use what you have, it will be OK. Just do it. :)

Eight hours. If the street lights dim, unplug and add more water. :laugh2:

Just do it. :D
Paul Wolcott





Electric Dreams Online Shop