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H Power Cyclone Avenger


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#1 Pablo

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Posted 10 September 2011 - 04:58 PM

Finished November 2011:

post-91-0-66932000-1316196546.jpg

 

post-91-0-99685400-1319406707.jpg

 

Here's where it all started:

I don't even know what it is, but I'm gonna build it :laugh2:

The Havlicek 36D powerplant made all the dogs in the neighborhood yowl when I fired it up.

This is gonna be fun !! biggrin.gif

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Paul Wolcott





#2 don.siegel

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Posted 10 September 2011 - 05:03 PM

Cyclone Avenger Paul - and as long as the motor doesn't stir up the Bats, you're okay...

Don

#3 tonyp

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Posted 10 September 2011 - 05:09 PM

Bats, now your talking....

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#4 Pablo

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Posted 10 September 2011 - 05:15 PM

You guys totally lost me.
The body, or the chassis, is a "Cyclone Avenger" ?

Bats ??

Paul Wolcott


#5 tonyp

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Posted 10 September 2011 - 05:37 PM

Bats, spiders, skulls, zombies, all good.

Anthony 'Tonyp' Przybylowicz

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#6 Jairus

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Posted 10 September 2011 - 06:37 PM

Body and frame are both Cyclone Avenger.

Jairus H Watson - Artist
Need something painted, soldered, carved, or killed? - jairuswtsn@aol.com

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#7 Pablo

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Posted 10 September 2011 - 06:45 PM

Thanks Jairus !!!!!! :)

Paul Wolcott


#8 dc-65x

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Posted 10 September 2011 - 06:47 PM

You guys totally lost me.
The body, or the chassis, is a "Cyclone Avenger" ?

Bats ??


Hi Pablo,

Isn't the whole car (Bats and all) a Cyclone Avenger?

Bats, spiders, skulls, zombies, all good.


ZOMBIES! :shok: They had better watch out....

I just finished building up my new ZAPER! ( Zombe and Alien Performance Enhanced Repeater) :laugh2: .

Rick Thigpen
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There's much more to come...


#9 Mike Patterson

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Posted 10 September 2011 - 08:49 PM

Pablo,

I don't see any holes for the body mounting screws in your chassis. You might have to do some drilling. And I don't see the can end mounting ring, either. More fabrication might be needed. :)

I am not a doctor, but I played one as a child with the girl next door.


#10 Mopar Rob

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Posted 10 September 2011 - 08:57 PM

Mike:


I believe on the Cylone Avenger the body snaps in on the front and back of the chassis. Basically no need for additional holes. I could be wrong since I wan't even born when this chassis was made :shok:

Rob Hanson

Shops at Mid-America Raceway and uses R-Geo Products


Rob was right!


#11 don.siegel

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Posted 11 September 2011 - 03:09 AM

It's sort of a press fit at the front and back, but mine also has two holes in the chassis, just in front of the pivot holes for the drop arm, and self-tapping screws through the body into those holes... Some of the Cyclone Avengers seem to have these holes and some don't.

The bats was just a high-frequency joke, since you had talked about waking up all the dogs in the neighborhood... Actually, I always thought the rewound 16D and 26D motors had the high-pitched squeal - a 36D is a bit lower - maybe it will attract some Pumas?

Don

#12 Pablo

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Posted 11 September 2011 - 08:14 AM

Thanks everybody, appreciate the help. ;)

Mike, if you could find me a photo of that retainer for the motor that would help. :)

Paul Wolcott


#13 tonyp

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Posted 11 September 2011 - 07:04 PM

There was a thread that had this chassis before. I think the chassis has to be drilled and body screwed to sides.

Anthony 'Tonyp' Przybylowicz

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#14 Pablo

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Posted 11 September 2011 - 07:15 PM

Thanks Tony, I'm on it..... :)

Paul Wolcott


#15 Mike Patterson

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Posted 11 September 2011 - 08:36 PM

Pablo,

That chassis is either in the attic somewhere, or long gone. I bought one of these cars BITD, and I remember how the thing was constructed. You WILL have to drill some body mounting holes like Don said, unless you come up with a better solution.

My car was can drive. The retainer ring is a circular piece that has a hole in the middle to fit over the can bearing, and is big enough in diameter so you can drill two holes that correspond to the mounting slots in the chassis. If you screw the motor into the chassis using the endbell, the thickness of the ring is the distance from the inside of the chassis, to the back of the motor. On my car this piece was cast aluminum like the rest of the chassis.

Hopefully someone will have better access to a chassis, and can take some pictures/dimensions for you.

I am not a doctor, but I played one as a child with the girl next door.


#16 Horsepower

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Posted 11 September 2011 - 08:38 PM

Here ya go, Paul! http://slotblog.net/...yclone-avenger/
Gary Stelter
 
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#17 Pablo

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Posted 12 September 2011 - 07:36 AM

Thanks Mike P, your description is perfect, that's as good as a pic.
Thanks Gary, my "BIG gear" partner in crime :D
Gears will be 16/48
Wheels will be about 1.1" OD, JK Nat Rubber, on Mila Miglia 1/2" wide rims.

Paul Wolcott


#18 Alchemist

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Posted 12 September 2011 - 12:09 PM

It's gonna be awesome! Can't wait for the finished product Paul!

Ernie
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#19 Pablo

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Posted 12 September 2011 - 09:27 PM

Thanks Ernie ! :D

The original Cyclone Avenger was can drive. My Havlicek monster motor is endbell drive.
So, I needed to find a way to secure the can end of the motor to the chassis.
The endbell was secured using self tapping screws, easy day. BUT, the can end was a challenge. None of the circlips and washers I bought at Lowes worked.

I ended up using a rubber grommet. It was a little too wide, so I trimmed it using my Hudy.
It is a tight fit, and I secured it forever by using 2 part epoxy on the motor bushing/grommet/chassis. Gear changes ? fogetaboutit. Motor change ? fogetaboutit.
It is what it is, and there ain't no goin back. Gear mesh is perfect, 16/48.

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Paul Wolcott


#20 Mopar Rob

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Posted 12 September 2011 - 09:33 PM

Pablo:


Where did you get those tiny brass 5-40 nuts? I need 4 of them for my Tradeship F1 build.

Rob Hanson

Shops at Mid-America Raceway and uses R-Geo Products


Rob was right!


#21 Pablo

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Posted 12 September 2011 - 09:39 PM

Professor Motor PMHH1015 Brass axle jam nuts #5-40 thread
8 nuts for $3
www.professormotor.com

Paul Wolcott


#22 Pablo

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Posted 13 September 2011 - 09:41 PM

Sexy beast:

DSC03908.JPG

Paul Wolcott


#23 Pablo

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Posted 16 September 2011 - 01:14 PM

The front and rear edges of the chassis are specially made to form/press fit the body.
Therefore, not a lot of extra body attachment was needed.
I put pin tube pieces through the rails on each side near the front wheels.

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And one more in the rear, centerline.

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Three pins total, nothing more is needed.

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Stock drop arm is tinned, and stock flag and braid was retained.

Paul Wolcott


#24 Asp

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Posted 16 September 2011 - 01:56 PM

In my opinion one of the best-looking Thingies, vastly underrated.

Thank you for sharing.
Luciano Luppi

#25 don.siegel

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Posted 16 September 2011 - 03:01 PM

Very clever body mounting, Pablo - much better than the original! Excellent project...

Don





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