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New raceway coming to Chicopee, MA!


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#51 Charlie Burke

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Posted 27 November 2011 - 05:35 PM

I did this on a track I picked up, with the gains cut deep. First stripped off all the old braid and adhesive, clean the gain thoroughly, and use regular old plastic body filler (we called it juice, or mud)to build them up. One coat, then reroute the gain to the depth wanted (what is it, like .10?), and paint the track, apply the braid, and the problem was solved. Use an auto body squeegee to apply the body filler, try not to get any on the track surface...or you'll wind up having to sand it flat before you can use the router. I really can't remember if we put anything in the guide slot to keep the filler out...or routed it twice. Old age has a way of making one forget job details. Seems like this was pretty inexpensive, and it lasted. Hope to race on your tracks soon......wish I could help but the wife has me busy doing a new kitchen.......:-(




#52 hfs3

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Posted 28 November 2011 - 10:24 PM

I did this on a track I picked up, with the gains cut deep. First stripped off all the old braid and adhesive, clean the gain thoroughly, and use regular old plastic body filler (we called it juice, or mud)to build them up. One coat, then reroute the gain to the depth wanted (what is it, like .10?), and paint the track, apply the braid, and the problem was solved. Use an auto body squeegee to apply the body filler, try not to get any on the track surface...or you'll wind up having to sand it flat before you can use the router. I really can't remember if we put anything in the guide slot to keep the filler out...or routed it twice. Old age has a way of making one forget job details. Seems like this was pretty inexpensive, and it lasted. Hope to race on your tracks soon......wish I could help but the wife has me busy doing a new kitchen.......:-(


Hey Charlie, thanks for input. It's also what Ogilvie tracks recommended! Needless to day, that's the most likely route we'll go (no pun intended). Once it's routed and painted with epoxy, the gain should be completely stable. Assuming standard braid is ~.025" thick, the top of the braid should sit .02"-.03" below the surface at the most. Add in another .005" for the adhesive tape and the recess could be .030"-.050" so long as it's the same all around the track. While the paint is drying, and before I can start taping/braiding, I'll give the bondo/hp wood filler technique a shot. I have a 3/4" router bit with a 1/8" pin to follow the slot, so why not?

We should be open for racing in mid-December, allowing time for the paint to cure on the Hillclimb. Then it's a matter of setting the race schedules and classes. :) I'm thinking NECC classes, Parma FCR Spec racing, and $100 wing cars. It all depends on what our club members want to race.

Kitchen, eh? You could be tied up for some time...

Henry Spadoni
Pioneer Valley Slot Club
100' Ogilvie Hillclimb
155' Ogilvie King


#53 Rapid Rick

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Posted 29 November 2011 - 08:37 PM

Hello Henry...My name is Rick and with my sister Dawn we own Rapid Raceways in Plainville. Like many of us in New England we are excited that a new track...and possibly two..are being built in Mass.

I feel a bit bad that you have already striped all the "crud" from under the braid area. What me, and many track builders do is to just run a router at a depth that just removes the glue and keeps most of the paint in the "gains" as you call them. This gives you a surface that ither contact cement or 3M's material stick to with good strength.

I would recommend having a braid-re-cess of about 10-12 thousanths as this keeps the cars guild and tires (and any error in marshalling) from pulling-up the braid. It is still bound to happen but this helps big time.

Anyway...I can't wait to come race at your place. As a member of the NECC since its start, and a host track since 2002, I hope you'll have the ability to host some events in the future.

Please keep us updated with your track news and I'm hoping that I'll make your Grand Opening.

All the best!!!

RRR

Rick "Rapid" Raducha

Rapid Raceways
161 Woodford Avenue
Plainville, CT 06062
(860) 793-1888 | Directions
Owners: Rick Raducha/Dawn Raducha


#54 hfs3

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Posted 29 November 2011 - 10:57 PM

Hello Henry...My name is Rick and with my sister Dawn we own Rapid Raceways in Plainville. Like many of us in New England we are excited that a new track...and possibly two..are being built in Mass.

I feel a bit bad that you have already striped all the "crud" from under the braid area. What me, and many track builders do is to just run a router at a depth that just removes the glue and keeps most of the paint in the "gains" as you call them. This gives you a surface that ither contact cement or 3M's material stick to with good strength.

I would recommend having a braid-re-cess of about 10-12 thousanths as this keeps the cars guild and tires (and any error in marshalling) from pulling-up the braid. It is still bound to happen but this helps big time.

Anyway...I can't wait to come race at your place. As a member of the NECC since its start, and a host track since 2002, I hope you'll have the ability to host some events in the future.

Please keep us updated with your track news and I'm hoping that I'll make your Grand Opening.

All the best!!!

RRR


Rick,

Thanks for the expert advice, it might have saved me some time on the Hillclimb. All in all though, I'm happy with how things have turned out so far. The paint didn't arrive today, so painting won't start until tomorrow at the earliest. We're planning on opening with the Hillclimb and work on the King to get it RTR.

The King braid recesses will be filled, then routed. So if the recess is ~.010" from the top of the braid to the surface, then just add that tthe 3M tape thickness and the braid thickness to get the final depth. I'll be sure to mic the braid before making the routes.

The NECC sounds like a great program, something that's good for the hobby. I visited your track last year sometime, though you were up to your ears in tech for an event so we didn't get to chat. I'd love to come down sometime to pick your brain sometime! Of course, you are always welcome at our raceway. :) Will definitely keep you posted on when we open the doors.

I took a few pictures today of the room with two tracks beginning to assemble into race circuits:
11-29-2011-Overview.jpg

The driver's stations were different from the usual Ogilvie deck. Now disassembled, each station had a switch for direction or on/off (?), an indicator light, a clear plexiglass plate to hold a controller, and the requisite brass posts:
11-29-2011-Drivers-Stations.jpg

Apparently, this was a Red King, not a blue one as evidenced when the driver stations were removed:
11-29-2011-Main-St.jpg

Here's a field of banks & turns:
11-29-2011-Field-of-Turns.jpg

Lastly, here's the interface board (a parallel port interface?):
11-29-2011-Interface-board.jpg

More to come!
Henry

Henry Spadoni
Pioneer Valley Slot Club
100' Ogilvie Hillclimb
155' Ogilvie King


#55 James Grandi

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Posted 30 November 2011 - 12:14 PM

As a participating racer in the NECC since 2006, I look forward to having a new raceway introduced to the New England area, and potentially the NECC series. The last few years have not been kind to the series, as we have had a couple different raceways close down, and have thus lost some racers because of it. Hopefully, your raceway will thrive and attract racers to you, both of new and of old.

I live in RI, so when you do open, I'll be sure to take a ride over to see it!
James Grandi
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#56 hfs3

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Posted 30 November 2011 - 10:03 PM

James,

We like the idea of the NECC series! I've visited both Modelville and Rapid Raceway and loved their tracks. It's great to see people having fun. I look forward to being able to give area racers new and old a place to enjoy their hobby. With any luck, this business model should work longer term. Low overhead, value racing, and good fun.

When it gets close, I'll announce our opening date. Also, will post hours of operation, directions, membership details, etc.

Henry Spadoni
Pioneer Valley Slot Club
100' Ogilvie Hillclimb
155' Ogilvie King


#57 hfs3

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Posted 30 November 2011 - 10:19 PM

Today, I masked off the cove moulding that goes on the inside of the wall on the outside of each corner. The moulding is still in decent shape, however it had been contact cemented and stapled in place. We'd only make a bigger mess removing it. The track mating surfaces were also masked off to protect against accidental paint drips. Since I'm braiding the sections separately, I thought I'd also paint them separately. However, most pictures I've seen show tracks assembled while being painted. Is there any reason for that? If the makes the section seams smoother, I suppose I could understand that. How much difference can there really be, given the average applied paint thickness is .005"? Oh well... While I can't be sure, it looks like the sections were originally painted separately - though very carefully - perhaps masked off?

Henry Spadoni
Pioneer Valley Slot Club
100' Ogilvie Hillclimb
155' Ogilvie King


#58 hfs3

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Posted 05 December 2011 - 07:06 PM

In a holding pattern at the moment. The epoxy paint in the braid recess, softened by the adhesive remover, is still tacky after a week of sitting. Up until a few days ago, room temperature was 55F. So, I thought it might be too cold for the old epoxy to set up properly. The gas line to the furnace was installed a few days ago and it became possible to raise room temperature to 65F. Still, those areas remain tacky - can't say for sure they are less tacky, though. I've even rinsed a few different lanes with soapy water, naptha, iso alcohol, or xylene. Unfortunately, none of those substances had the desired effect. I'm tempted to just paint over everything, hoping the fresh coat of catalyzing epoxy paint does it's work on the old paint. Where it's tacky, would it compromise the new paint?

Maybe I should I wait it out a little longer? Once it becomes a waiting game, time always wins. The easiest course is to leave the heat up for a few more days to see if that helps, but I'm not convinced that will help matters.

Any thoughts out there?

Henry Spadoni
Pioneer Valley Slot Club
100' Ogilvie Hillclimb
155' Ogilvie King


#59 Charlie Burke

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Posted 05 December 2011 - 07:42 PM

Maybe some heat from a heat gun applied to the stubborn areas? Not too intense, just sort of a drive-by waving at the damp part.

#60 Victor Poulin

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Posted 05 December 2011 - 07:56 PM

Just be careful Henry, some epoxy's are not compatible with other epoxy's . If the paint under the new epoxy is wet and mixes with the new, it could lift or crack the under coat . Not trying to scare you, but I think I would try a dry up the old paint as best you can.

I think Charlies idea of trying a heat gun is a good one.


Vic
Alright, who cut the cheese?

#61 hfs3

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Posted 05 December 2011 - 11:10 PM

Just be careful Henry, some epoxy's are not compatible with other epoxy's . If the paint under the new epoxy is wet and mixes with the new, it could lift or crack the under coat . Not trying to scare you, but I think I would try a dry up the old paint as best you can.

I think Charlies idea of trying a heat gun is a good one.


Vic


When I was deciding on which paint to use, I contacted Ogilvie Tracks. Brian thought the SW epoxy should be no problem, so I'm hopeful. As for the still tacky old paint, I'm going to bring a hair dryer with me to see if that has any effect. It might be easier than using a heat gun, which in my hands would be a dangerous thing. Interestingly, the first few sections of track are dry. However, I used Xylene to strip the adhesive on those pieces, not Citristrip. We shall see what Tuesday brings...

Henry Spadoni
Pioneer Valley Slot Club
100' Ogilvie Hillclimb
155' Ogilvie King


#62 hfs3

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Posted 06 December 2011 - 09:10 PM

Hmmm. The paint in the gains does not want to harden/dry. The high temp hair dryer didn't so anything, nor did another 24 hours in 68F temp. When you run your finger along the tacky areas, it feels like nearly dry latex paint. That stuff would either make a great base for the new paint, or be a disaster. Time to contact the makers of Citristrip to see if they have any bright ideas. Will also call the local Sherwin-Williams guys to see if they can offer any advice. Ah well, tomorrow is another day.

Henry Spadoni
Pioneer Valley Slot Club
100' Ogilvie Hillclimb
155' Ogilvie King


#63 Vay Jonynas

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Posted 06 December 2011 - 09:37 PM

Just another case of whatever can go wrong does go wrong. Who would guess paint would refuse to dry?


<_<
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#64 hfs3

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Posted 07 December 2011 - 06:41 PM

Just another case of whatever can go wrong does go wrong. Who would guess paint would refuse to dry?

<_<


Vay,

That's so very true. Apparently, new ways are being found every day to foil even the best of plans. :D
Citristrip said to use mineral spirits if the soap and water didn't do a complete job. I'll give it a shot tomorrow. Short of sanding/routing the gains, the best way to see what would happen is to is to mix up a few tablespoons of epoxy and test a small area. I'd love to get painting so we can get to racing, but everything has to be right.

So, while that finishes up I'll move on to the King - stripping old braid, etc. Below is a shot of the King arranged in proper order (note the H/C upper straight lead-in sitting between the King bank and finger):

12-05-2011-02.jpg

Henry Spadoni
Pioneer Valley Slot Club
100' Ogilvie Hillclimb
155' Ogilvie King


#65 Victor Poulin

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Posted 07 December 2011 - 07:29 PM

Henry,
Maybe your right, try a small area somewhere and see what happens. At this point nothing gained, nothing lost?
You might just get lucky for a change lol.

Vic
Alright, who cut the cheese?

#66 Robert Roundy

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Posted 09 December 2011 - 09:57 AM

Hi Henry,

coming from a radio control background and a avid plane & boat builder building is half the fun.. But i feel your pain in wanting to have it perfect. You have made great progress. Remember if you you build it "We will come to race and have FUN". Thanks for all the updates too.
giggty giggty Let's Go Racing

#67 smigiel

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Posted 09 December 2011 - 06:35 PM

its all going to pay off in the end. but im hopping soon I cant wait to come down and run the tracks
Robert Smigiel

#68 hfs3

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Posted 09 December 2011 - 11:45 PM

Well, the test painting went well! There was no adverse reaction from the paint underneath and the new paint was drying nicely. Setting some aside for touch up, I mixed the gallon of epoxy with 1pint of hardener. Next, I added reducer (10:1) to cut down on the orange peel effect. Lastly, using a 9" roller with a 3/8" nap, I went at it. My son used a small brush to finish the areas near the wall the roller couldn't reach. When finished, it looked like this:

12-09-2011-01.jpg
12-09-2011-02.jpg

Assuming 1 coat will do it, all I have to do is wait a few days or so to stripe it. Then, lay tape and braid. In the meantime finish stripping the old braid from the King.

Nothing is perfect, but aiming high never hurts quality. :)
Racing will come soon!

Henry Spadoni
Pioneer Valley Slot Club
100' Ogilvie Hillclimb
155' Ogilvie King


#69 Victor Poulin

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Posted 10 December 2011 - 09:19 AM

Glad to hear it went well Henry !
Alright, who cut the cheese?

#70 Robert Roundy

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Posted 10 December 2011 - 07:12 PM

Looks like it went very well glad to hear and better to see Giggy'd Giggy'd Let's Go Racing.. :D
giggty giggty Let's Go Racing

#71 hfs3

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Posted 12 December 2011 - 09:04 AM

After two days, here's what the surface looks like close up. Despite it's appearance, it's smooth to the touch:

12-10-2011.jpg

Debating whether to do another coat...

Henry Spadoni
Pioneer Valley Slot Club
100' Ogilvie Hillclimb
155' Ogilvie King


#72 Victor Poulin

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Posted 12 December 2011 - 11:14 AM

Doesn't look like it needs another coat to me Henry. I think your good to go.
Alright, who cut the cheese?

#73 hfs3

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Posted 12 December 2011 - 07:17 PM

Doesn't look like it needs another coat to me Henry. I think your good to go.


I took a close look today and didn't see a uniform gloss finish - too many matte areas. So, tomorrow will be a painting day!

Henry Spadoni
Pioneer Valley Slot Club
100' Ogilvie Hillclimb
155' Ogilvie King


#74 Robert Roundy

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Posted 12 December 2011 - 10:05 PM

yeah that's the dreaded orange peel effect..I've had that happen to on one of my boats. Not sure why it does it but I know that it wont go away even if you put another coat on. looks funny but like you said it's smooth to touch. Getting psyched for turning some laps
giggty giggty Let's Go Racing

#75 Robert Roundy

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Posted 12 December 2011 - 10:17 PM

Posted Image

if you look close you can see it but it was smooth
giggty giggty Let's Go Racing

#76 hfs3

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Posted 13 December 2011 - 04:21 PM

After looking at it some more, I decided another coat of epoxy was needed. The track surface was not consistently glossy. Most likely, I used too much reducer on the first coat. So, today I stopped at Sherwin Williams and picked up more epoxy and hardener and laid down another coat. This one will dry glossy, for sure. Already, it looks much better. Pix tomorrow!

Henry Spadoni
Pioneer Valley Slot Club
100' Ogilvie Hillclimb
155' Ogilvie King


#77 Robert Roundy

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Posted 13 December 2011 - 07:34 PM

Good to hear Henry... Hey any chance of stopping by tomorrow to check your place out..? when are you there i'm free all day Thanks
giggty giggty Let's Go Racing

#78 hfs3

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Posted 13 December 2011 - 11:11 PM

I plan on being there around 9 to check on the paint, perhaps remove the tape and clean up a few edges. I should be there until noon, go grab a quick bite and head back. We're fixing up the office space, rehabbing the King, and finishing the Hillclimb. I'll shoot you a PM with my cell number...

Henry Spadoni
Pioneer Valley Slot Club
100' Ogilvie Hillclimb
155' Ogilvie King


#79 Robert Roundy

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Posted 14 December 2011 - 09:06 PM

Henry was good to stop by and meet you today. place is really looking good cant wait to turn some laps..
giggty giggty Let's Go Racing

#80 hfs3

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Posted 15 December 2011 - 08:17 PM

Robert,

Thanks for stopping by. It was good to meet you, too! Yesterday, I was able to accomplish what I set out to do, and before I left, my brother and his son delivered the three tall, white display cases and four glass counter display cases that were part of the Hillclimb purchase. Since it was no fun watching paint dry, I decided to clean them. I started with the tall display cases, cleaning the surfaces. I also hung one of the pegboards and cleaned and hung the glass doors. Next up were the glass counter cases. They were not so hard to clean, but very heavy to move. With the help of two furniture dollies, I was able to move them around until I was reasonably happy with the configuration:
12-15-12011-c.jpg

Here's a few sections of the Hillclimb, gleaming with a drying coat of fresh epoxy. The markings on the side walls were from the landscaped infield the previous owner had installed. While the landscape was nicely done, with trees and stuff, I thought it was too fragile for a racing environment. In it's place will be a carpeted infield.:
12-15-2011-a.jpg

There is an orange peel texture to the finish, which I'm sure is unavoidable with this coating. The appearance is similar to the tracks I saw at Modelville several months ago. I've read about (and heard of) the practice of cross sanding the corners to give them more bite and decrease the dependency on glue. In theory, light spray glue should be all that is needed to hook up, if at all? It sounds like a good idea, but before I commit it would be nice to hear from others (good/bad? technique?). Below is a closer shot of the track surface:
12-15-2011-b.jpg

The finish has set up nicely and is uniformly glossy, as it should be. That means I can get to striping and braiding early next week. I missed a few spots in the gains, so tomorrow I'll mix up a few tablespoons of epoxy and touch them up. The touch ups should be fine for striping by Monday, Tuesday at the latest. I'm making a custom guide for the Buegler striper using a guide flag and some metal rod. I'll post pix when it's finished...

Henry Spadoni
Pioneer Valley Slot Club
100' Ogilvie Hillclimb
155' Ogilvie King


#81 Victor Poulin

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Posted 16 December 2011 - 09:20 AM

Henry,
The epoxy finish on our Gerding track looks very similar to yours, and has good bite. Depending on what we're running, we sometimes use a very light mist of spray glue but that's not very often needed. I think you'll prob find the same thing.

The place is really starting to take shape !!

Vic
Alright, who cut the cheese?

#82 hfs3

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Posted 20 December 2011 - 09:22 PM

Henry,
The epoxy finish on our Gerding track looks very similar to yours, and has good bite. Depending on what we're running, we sometimes use a very light mist of spray glue but that's not very often needed. I think you'll prob find the same thing.

The place is really starting to take shape !!

Vic


Vic,

That's what I thought! The paint has definitely hardened up a lot since it was painted. It could be striped but for one thing: the two lane colors I am missing (purple & black) won't get here until next week. I thought I had all the colors, but originally bought the one shot colors needed for a six lane track. I suppose I could have mixed up purple from red and blue, and maybe black, too - but I wanted enough left of each color to also do the King. Note the shiny surface below, and the sanded outer walls:
12-20-2011-a.jpg

While waiting for paint to dry, I filled the cases with the product we have. There are a lot of bodies, NASCAR from 93-03, GTP, and a few for wing cars. There's also a bunch of Flexi 2 & 3 chassis and parts. I am mentally putting together the list of stuff we'll need to support our racing series (bodies, chassis, tires, RTR's, etc.) as well as every day needs (oil, tools, tape, solder, etc.). We're going to redo the toe kick, and stripped it from one section to see what was underneath it. Even so, the cases look a lot nicer with stuff in them, we just need more stuff!
12-20-2011-b.jpg

After much thought about the depth of the Kings's gains, we're going to try a test. Using and 1/8" thick foam, we'll cut 1/2" wide strips. Those strips go in the slot and the bondo will fill flush to the surface. In theory, we could route the foam out using a bit rounded over on the end (so it won't cut but will follow an existing slot). Then we could route with a standard recess router bit (3/4" with a 1/8" pin in the end). I did source some thicker braid that could also work. The sample I received, when laid in the gain, would leave an acceptable recess from the surface. The thicker braid is undoubtedly a lot more expensive per foot than standard braid, which makes things interesting. It would be a lot less work than filling and routing the gains. However, price and potential installation difficulties make the first option worth a look.

Henry Spadoni
Pioneer Valley Slot Club
100' Ogilvie Hillclimb
155' Ogilvie King


#83 Victor Poulin

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Posted 21 December 2011 - 09:05 AM

Henry,
Don't forget to stock up on motors and motor parts according to what you'll be running for classes. A lot of guys like to have quite a few back up motors, arms, brushes, springs, ect.

Vic
Alright, who cut the cheese?

#84 Robert Roundy

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Posted 21 December 2011 - 05:04 PM

Hey Henry,

I think i see my new car sitting in the case and body hanging on the wall..

Bob
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#85 jimht

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Posted 21 December 2011 - 06:20 PM

I usually only sell the 3M 9469PC .005" VHB adhesive transfer tape for bonding the braid but 3M also makes some foam core VHB tapes: 5925 .025" thick and 4949 .045" thick.

They're pricier than the 9469 but these should work for dealing with braid shoulders that are too deep.

I've ordered some samples to test, you might consider doing the same, eh? Try RS Hughes.

Jim Honeycutt

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#86 hfs3

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Posted 22 December 2011 - 05:40 PM

I usually only sell the 3M 9469PC .005" VHB adhesive transfer tape for bonding the braid but 3M also makes some foam core VHB tapes: 5925 .025" thick and 4949 .045" thick.

They're pricier than the 9469 but these should work for dealing with braid shoulders that are too deep.

I've ordered some samples to test, you might consider doing the same, eh? Try RS Hughes.


Jim,

Thanks for the pointer! I'll follow up to see what I can find. The thick braid I found (from Continental Cordage) could do the trick, but I feel it would be better to first attempt to repair the recesses. The thicker braid should have a longer lifespan as the individual strands are larger in diameter than in the standard braid, which is something in it's favor.

Henry Spadoni
Pioneer Valley Slot Club
100' Ogilvie Hillclimb
155' Ogilvie King


#87 hfs3

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Posted 23 December 2011 - 06:57 PM

The epoxy on the Hillclimb has cured nicely, so my brother and I assembled the track for striping. However, underneath the overhead sections would be difficult (at best) to stripe with the track were fully assembled. The transition and two straight sections are set aside to be striped separately.
12-23-2011-d.jpg

For striping, one shot paints are the best:
12-23-2011-c.jpg

I used a Buegler pinstriper with a 1/4" wide head to do my home track. Below is a guide I made from 1/8" steel rod, a ring terminal, and a used guide stem. There's a little too much play in the slot, but nothing a little tape wrapped around the blade won't cure.
12-23-2011-b.jpg

Here's my son's hand holding the striper, which is pushed forward. As the roller delivers the paint, it makes a sharp line - plus you can see the paint coating the wheel before it gets laid down.
12-23-2011-a.jpg

Henry Spadoni
Pioneer Valley Slot Club
100' Ogilvie Hillclimb
155' Ogilvie King


#88 hfs3

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Posted 28 December 2011 - 07:41 PM

Things are starting to get colorful! Finished 6 of 8 lanes today, with only purple and black to go:

12-28-2011.jpg

Once the last two lanes are done, I'll paint the outer and inner walls. Then it's on to the 3M tape!

Henry Spadoni
Pioneer Valley Slot Club
100' Ogilvie Hillclimb
155' Ogilvie King


#89 hfs3

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Posted 29 December 2011 - 03:57 PM

Striped purple and black today to finish that step. To make striping easier I reversed the guide flag so the leading edge was even with the striper. Tomorrow, after vacuuming and wiping down with a tacky cloth, I'll mask and paint the inner and outer walls. Over the weekend, I'll get some 3M tape laid down - probably finish on Monday. Have to pick up some more naptha to degrease the braid so it will form a secure bond with the adhesive.

Henry Spadoni
Pioneer Valley Slot Club
100' Ogilvie Hillclimb
155' Ogilvie King


#90 thumpa

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Posted 30 December 2011 - 06:55 AM

Hi Henry,
I have been following your progress and things are looking very nice.I and a few friends are definitly interested in joining and personally I have never raced on a commercial track and am excited to see a track going up a little closer than others around.I will keep an eye out for your opening.
Dan
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#91 Robert Roundy

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Posted 30 December 2011 - 10:32 AM

Henry

It's really taking shape I even had Santa get me a car to race (my wife she's the Greatest)... But as you know Boys & toys you gotta have more than one.. any idea's on a planned Grand opening ?

Lastly how's your other track coming along or have you been putting in all your time on the Hillclimb first.. by the way Great job track is looking FUN..
giggty giggty Let's Go Racing

#92 Larry Labounty

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Posted 30 December 2011 - 06:17 PM

Hi Henery, I have stop by a couple of times to meet everyone. Just At the wrong time. Looks like all your work is starting to pay off. It sure looks great ! Larry

#93 hfs3

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Posted 03 January 2012 - 08:45 PM

Hi Henry,
I have been following your progress and things are looking very nice.I and a few friends are definitly interested in joining and personally I have never raced on a commercial track and am excited to see a track going up a little closer than others around.I will keep an eye out for your opening.
Dan


Dan,

Thanks for the interest! I'll be sure to let you know when the doors open. Should be soon...

Henry Spadoni
Pioneer Valley Slot Club
100' Ogilvie Hillclimb
155' Ogilvie King


#94 hfs3

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Posted 03 January 2012 - 08:50 PM

Henry

It's really taking shape I even had Santa get me a car to race (my wife she's the Greatest)... But as you know Boys & toys you gotta have more than one.. any idea's on a planned Grand opening ?

Lastly how's your other track coming along or have you been putting in all your time on the Hillclimb first.. by the way Great job track is looking FUN..


Robert,

Gotta love a wife who is an enabler, eh? The walls are painted in satin black enamel, same color as OEM. Looks really good against the graphite racing surface. My plan is to be all braided and wired up by the end of next week. Also put a banner on the sliding entry door that has the Pioneer Valley Slot Club logo on it (cool!). Definitely will let everyone know when the doors are going to open.

Henry Spadoni
Pioneer Valley Slot Club
100' Ogilvie Hillclimb
155' Ogilvie King


#95 hfs3

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Posted 03 January 2012 - 08:52 PM

Hi Henry, I have stop by a couple of times to meet everyone. Just At the wrong time. Looks like all your work is starting to pay off. It sure looks great ! Larry


Hi Larry,

Thanks for the kind words. :) I'd be happy to show you our tracks sometime, just let me know when you'd be likely to visit.

Henry Spadoni
Pioneer Valley Slot Club
100' Ogilvie Hillclimb
155' Ogilvie King


#96 hfs3

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Posted 05 January 2012 - 01:05 AM

Took off all the blue masking tape today. Have to touch up a few spots, but it looks a lot nicer now!
01-04-2012-a.jpg

Made sure the slot openings were clear of paint, using an old guide flag wrapped with 220 grit sandpaper. It was just enough to smooth the gains while also removing out any errant epoxy. I went over the track with a vacuum cleaner, and then wiped down the gains and surface with isopropyl alcohol. Then, the first roll of 3M tape was applied...
01-04-2012-c.jpg

I also put the banner with the logo on the door! However, the website is not yet finished, so I haven't uploaded it yet.
01-04-2012-d.jpg

So long as my back holds out, I'll be laying tape tomorrow. If I can finish the taping this week, the braiding will take a 2-3 days - including cutting braid to length, rinsing each piece with naptha (or acetone?), and allowing sufficient time to dry before applying.

Power is going to be an interesting issue. For practical reasons, and likely fire marshall reasons, batteries are not going happen. For the Hillclimb, my plan is to go with twin 75 amp Iota suppplies, with a 1 farad capacitor to provide extra capacity in start up situations. While thinking about the King, i found a thread on an R/C forum on the use of computer server power supplies for charging, etc. The main feature of these supplies is ultra clean, high amperage power. I saw somewhere in a thread that guys were running lower voltage server supplies in serial to get up to race voltages with serious amperage. So I did a little searching and found readily available supplies that output 12.2vdc @ 164 amps. With a minor mod, the voltage is adjustable up to 14.6vdc. So, I bought 4 supplies for $50 + $18 shipping. Worse case: they are cheap bench power. My goal is to make a swappable system, where I could pull out a bad unit and insert a new one - quickly (like at a race!). Searching ebay again, for $75 I bought a used server frame - the one the supplies lived in - hoping for connectors, slides, etc. As luck would have it, that frame also came with 4 supplies. Bonus! In theory, I could run the King with 8 supplies, each one providing 164 amp per lane. Perhaps a little much? Yeah, I thought so... Most likely, I'll just go with one supply / pair of lanes. After all, how many cars draw more than 82 amps in a spike?

Henry Spadoni
Pioneer Valley Slot Club
100' Ogilvie Hillclimb
155' Ogilvie King


#97 Robert Roundy

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Posted 05 January 2012 - 06:40 PM

Hey Henry,

I know we use computer power supplies all the time as power source for our RC chargers they are way cheaper.. I believe I have two old computers in the Man room that might still have power supply's in them your more than welcome to them to give them a try.. Any chance you'll be at the track tomorrow I could drop them off.. That and I am in need of some 3/32 oilites for a drag car i'm building..?? I'll give you a call in the am if you dont see this before then.. Track is looking Good..
giggty giggty Let's Go Racing

#98 hfs3

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Posted 05 January 2012 - 10:53 PM

Hey Henry,

I know we use computer power supplies all the time as power source for our RC chargers they are way cheaper.. I believe I have two old computers in the Man room that might still have power supply's in them your more than welcome to them to give them a try.. Any chance you'll be at the track tomorrow I could drop them off.. That and I am in need of some 3/32 oilites for a drag car i'm building..?? I'll give you a call in the am if you dont see this before then.. Track is looking Good..


I will be there tomorrow to finish laying tape on all the sections with curves in them. They take the longest, so I'm saving the easiest for last. I appreciate the offer of the supplies, but I'm pretty well set on that front. The power supplies I acquired are from IBM Blade servers, and were designed to deliver more current than would ever be required of them. They also provide clean DC power, with no AC ripple that is harmful to motors. These are pulls from working environments, and they're plentiful and cheap. The total investment so far is less than the cost of a 75 amp Iota supply. For that I get 82 amps/lane (656 amps total) and have 4 spare supplies on hand. The server chassis has a sub assembly for the power supply, fans, and misc. stuff, which will form the basis of a smaller enclosure and retain the ability to swap supplies in and out. Each supply will still plug into a connector, only it will route the power to output terminals instead of server stuff. Additionally, each supply will be adjustable from 12.2v-14.6v (max) and metered to insure identical voltage across the track. Now, if only everything works as it should... :on_the_quiet2:

I might have some 3/32" oilites somewhere on the wall, if not in my personal stash.

Henry Spadoni
Pioneer Valley Slot Club
100' Ogilvie Hillclimb
155' Ogilvie King


#99 Larry Labounty

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Posted 07 January 2012 - 07:34 AM

Hi Henery, I service stores in the Chicopee area so I stopped by around 1 p.m . I would stop by in the area between 1 p.m to 3:30 p.m most Tuesday, Thursday or on Friday.I need to find a easier place to park. Entrance a little tight with the box truck , [right turn into lot was a test ]
Regards Larry

#100 hfs3

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Posted 07 January 2012 - 10:38 AM

Larry,

Sounds good! I'm heading over today after lunch to finish the 3M tape. My back can't wait for this phase to be completed. Yes, the turn into the lot from the bridge is a tight one, even for my Mini Cooper. There is an alternate way into the complex, which is the only way to get in after 6pm or on the weekend as the gate on the bridge is closed. The other entrance is at the other end of the complex, near the 391 overpass. The easiest way is take exit 2 on 391, bear right off the ramp and get into the far left lane. At the light, turn left on to Center St. Follow to the end and turn right on Exchange St. The Red Fez will be on your right. Take the first left, Depot St., and follow to where Rt. 391 passes overhead. Turn right into the rear access of the complex and follow to the far end, to Loading Dock #1. Enter the door next to the loading dock, follow to the main hall and turn left. We are about 100' down the hall on the right (you can't miss the banner on the door.

Look forward to seeing you one of these days.

Regards,
Henry

Henry Spadoni
Pioneer Valley Slot Club
100' Ogilvie Hillclimb
155' Ogilvie King






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