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New raceway coming to Chicopee, MA!


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#26 hfs3

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Posted 24 October 2011 - 05:43 PM

Good news! The floor is all one color now, but it will take a few days to cure. We'll start moving things that won't take a big truck on Wednesday. The track will be moved over this weekend and then the fun begins.
Posted Image

Henry Spadoni
Pioneer Valley Slot Club
100' Ogilvie Hillclimb
155' Ogilvie King





#27 hfs3

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Posted 26 October 2011 - 04:40 PM

Checked the floor this afternoon and it looks dry. We decided to wait until tomorrow to start moving the little stuff. My brother in law said he's 99.9% sure the truck will be available for Saturday, which is when the tracks will be transported over. Really looking forward to putting things together.
Posted Image

Henry Spadoni
Pioneer Valley Slot Club
100' Ogilvie Hillclimb
155' Ogilvie King


#28 hfs3

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Posted 29 October 2011 - 03:03 PM

We first started moving the King track into the truck at 10:30am and unloaded the last section of the Hillclimb at 2:00pm. By then, the snow was coming down pretty well. My brother and I did the labor moving the King into it's new home, but we had two helpers for the Hillclimb. Overall, four and a half hours to move two good sized tracks (7-8 miles) is not so bad. I was too tired to take pix, so they'll have to wait until tomorrow. Progress is being made.

Henry Spadoni
Pioneer Valley Slot Club
100' Ogilvie Hillclimb
155' Ogilvie King


#29 Steve Deiters

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Posted 29 October 2011 - 03:08 PM

Having moved a coouple tracks years ago I woould say that was record time!

#30 hfs3

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Posted 04 November 2011 - 04:21 PM

Internet, directv, and phone are out here - though we do have power! Leeching internet from a neighbor to write this :) Started to setup the Hillclimb and realized it's best that we rebraid it. I have plenty of braid to get started with and will have another spool on the way shortly. Will post pix tomorrow!

Henry Spadoni
Pioneer Valley Slot Club
100' Ogilvie Hillclimb
155' Ogilvie King


#31 hfs3

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Posted 06 November 2011 - 04:42 PM

Here is picture of room the with tracks in various stages of assembly:
11-05-2011.jpg
The Hillclimb will be pushed up against the wall to the left, leaving plenty of room for drivers; the King will fit nicely on the right side of the room.

Here's a look at the Hillclimb hairpin turn after the driver stations:
Hillclimb-hairpin.jpg
There was a fair amount of braid that pulled up with no effort, exposing old, crusty adhesive tape - not contact cement. The tape flaked off easily and I could see the gains had been painted; it was obvious this track was living on it's original braid (circa 1996). Gotta love Ogilvie tracks, eh? There will be no need to mess with the gains other than to clear off the old tape. Once we install new braid and put a fresh coat of paint on the outer walls, it'll be almost as good as new.

Last pic for today is a look at the Hillclimb roughly laid out (less the overhead sections):
Hillclimb.jpg
By the time I took this one, I had cleaned off a few sections using a naptha dampened rag. Well, several rags... Needless to say, they looked a lot better afterwards!

Henry Spadoni
Pioneer Valley Slot Club
100' Ogilvie Hillclimb
155' Ogilvie King


#32 Alchemist

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Posted 06 November 2011 - 10:29 PM

HI Henry,

I'm very excited for you and the progress you're making!! Hope the weather gets better for you!

Thanks for posting the pix!

Ernie
Ernie Layacan

#33 hfs3

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Posted 08 November 2011 - 09:54 PM

HI Henry,

I'm very excited for you and the progress you're making!! Hope the weather gets better for you!

Thanks for posting the pix!

Ernie


Hey Ernie, thanks for the kind wishes. We've had the most unusual weather this year - tornado, hurricane, earthquake, freak snowstorm. What's next, locusts?

Today I removed more than 1/2 the old braid on the Hillclimb. I'll finish up tomorrow and set to work carefully peeling off the old tape. Once done, I'll start laying new braid - until I run out of what I have. I've got 2000' more coming sometime next week, which should be plenty to finish the job. I had thought about using naptha thinned contact cement to attach the new braid (it seems like it would stand up better to cleaning solvents), but after seeing how long the old braid lasted and how cleanly it came off (no damage to the gains) I decided to go the 3M tape route. Should be all done with that chore by the end of next week, depending on when the tape & braid arrive.

In the likely downtime, I'll work on setting up the computer interface, however I don't think I'll use the original software that came with the track, which has race management and time sell module, because I never got the password for the time sell module *AND* I think it only runs in DOS. TrackMate works well on my home track and I read somewhere the board should interface with it, so I guess I'll find out!


Henry

Henry Spadoni
Pioneer Valley Slot Club
100' Ogilvie Hillclimb
155' Ogilvie King


#34 hfs3

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Posted 12 November 2011 - 06:10 PM

All the braid has been stripped from the Hillclimb. It took longer to finish than I expected. Part of the delay was because the previous owner used contact cement on the long overhead straight. I've been looking for the Klean Strip adhesive remover, but in MA my only choice is to mail order it. The Xylene does a decent job of softening the adhesive, but I don't know if it will soften it enough for me to scrape it out. The majority of the track used the 3M tape to secure the braid, and some of it was dry so it flaked off easily. The remaining tape is dry on top, but sticky enough on the other side so it holds tightly to the painted gains. It takes a lot of time to carefully remove the sticky tape without taking up the paint beneath. That means either I've got another week of tape removal - or - I find the right solvent to lift it off.

Has anyone encountered - and solved this one? Maybe Slot Car Corner might know, as they sell it. Hmmm.... This track is assembled from 13 sections.

Anyway, I'm almost done with the main driver's panel straight, and have started on the hairpin and following straight. When those three are clear, I'll touch up the gains, wait a day, lay tape, then braid. I don't think I'll finish tomorrow (maybe not even start), but I'll post pictures of the progress late this weekend. :)

Henry Spadoni
Pioneer Valley Slot Club
100' Ogilvie Hillclimb
155' Ogilvie King


#35 Dominator

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Posted 12 November 2011 - 10:22 PM

If you have good ventilation use some goof-off. Let it set for about 10-15 minutes then it should peel up easily.

A motor is only as fast as the chassis it's in.
 
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#36 hfs3

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Posted 14 November 2011 - 09:31 AM

If you have good ventilation use some goof-off. Let it set for about 10-15 minutes then it should peel up easily.



Well, I tried professional strength Goof-Off and while it makes it easier it doesn't make it easy. I made it through two straight sections yesterday and expect to finish up at least another section today. I think I'll head to Home Depot to see if they have an assortment of adhesive removers.

Here's a shot of clean gains:
11-13-2011-2.jpg


And here's how I have things arranged to work on the track:
11-13-2011-1.jpg

Henry Spadoni
Pioneer Valley Slot Club
100' Ogilvie Hillclimb
155' Ogilvie King


#37 hfs3

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Posted 16 November 2011 - 08:22 PM

The Zylene and Goof-Off gave off noxious fumes and really didn't do a great job of dissolving the adhesive tape or contact cement. Removal was slow and left me looking at the remaining sections of track and thinking my future had many boring weeks ahead of me. In a previous trip, the Home Depot guy had no idea what would work (like counter guys never have to remove contact cement goobers). On the off chance the Home Depot guy didn't know what he was talking about, I scoured the aisles and found this:

11-16-2011-01.jpg

Citristrip. It was $33+ for a gallon, but if it worked it was worth the price. The first thing I noticed was that there were virtually no noxious fumes, so there was no need to wear a respirator, just a face mask. Plus, it cleans up with soap and water. Since it was a gel I started applying it with a brush, but it wasn't a very thick gel and brushing was an excruciating slow ordeal. In the end that method didn't leave a heavy or consistent enough deposit to fully lift up the tape, requiring a second application. There had to be an easier way! After trying a few different applicators I settled on a hair dye applicator. I nipped a bit off the end to make a larger opening so the remover could flow freely, but not too freely. While the instructions say to wait 1-3 hours before trying to remove the adhesive, overnight works best. Here's the hairpin after the driver's stations, all cleaned up:

11-16-2011-02.jpg

Here's a closer look of the adhesive free gains:

11-16-2011-03.jpg

There are now three sections completely free of glue, and another 4-1/2 sitting overnight. In the morning I'll strip the loose tape off, apply more on stubborn spots, and apply remover to at least 3 more sections. Here's a closeup look at the tape lifting:

11-16-2011-04.jpg

When I got home, there were two packages waiting. One box contained 2,000' of braid; in the other were two brand new 75A Rivergate/Iota power supplies. Still looking good for a 12/1 opening!

Henry

Henry Spadoni
Pioneer Valley Slot Club
100' Ogilvie Hillclimb
155' Ogilvie King


#38 hfs3

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Posted 18 November 2011 - 05:29 PM

Things are going quite well with the Citristrip. After pulling up the softened tape, gently scrape up the dirt and gel. Using a damp rag, rinse off the surface (including gains); go over again with a clean rag; rinse once with a naptha dampened rag; let dry. Tomorrow, I'll pull the tape from 1) the long overhead straight and, (2) the turn coming out of the high bank, with three driver panels. The last piece is the lead in to the overhead straight. By Sunday, there won't be any tape left on the track! Then on to touching up the gains and the surface...

Henry Spadoni
Pioneer Valley Slot Club
100' Ogilvie Hillclimb
155' Ogilvie King


#39 Dominator

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Posted 18 November 2011 - 10:50 PM

Sounds like your making some great progress Henry.

A motor is only as fast as the chassis it's in.
 
Dominic Luongo

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#40 hfs3

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Posted 19 November 2011 - 09:30 PM

Sounds like your making some great progress Henry.


Thanks, Dominic. Once I found the right solvent and application method it was much easier. I ended up ditching the hair dye applicator as the Citristrip slowy ate away at the applicator tip. A trip to Michael's netted a 2 pack of candy making applicators for around $5. I also learned that tilting the bottle in the direction you are trying to cover does not work as well as tilting the bottle behind the direction of travel. With the tip forward and gently squeezing the bottle you can build up a nice bit of solvent in front as you move forward. The result is an even layer of solvent, and less solvent used.

Tomorrow I'll be done with the adhesive stripping. I figure one person could strip adhesive from a track like this (105') in 3-4 days, assuming they used this method. So long as the gains were painted the process results in a perfectly clean surface to lay new tape on.

My back has been complaining with all this bending over, and I learned to arch my back to make my legs shoulder most of the burden. Much easier.

Next week will be a braid fest. :)

Henry Spadoni
Pioneer Valley Slot Club
100' Ogilvie Hillclimb
155' Ogilvie King


#41 Victor Poulin

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Posted 20 November 2011 - 10:26 AM

Henry,
Are you doing this all by yourself or do you have friends helping?
That's a lot of work my friend! I've been following this thread since you started,
and can't get over the amount of work you've gotten done!

The place is going to be great once you get it set up the way you want it!

Vic
Alright, who cut the cheese?

#42 hfs3

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Posted 20 November 2011 - 01:21 PM

Vic,

I've had expert help with the room rehab (my brother/partner). But, since he's been out of town since work started on the Hillclimb, stripping the old braid and the adhesive has fallen to me. He'll be back on Tuesday, so I'll have help for taping and braiding. I expect to be done with that task by the end of this week and moving on to assembly and power wiring. That is, unless we don't decidoloe to repaint the track surface. Speaking of paint, I read a thread where Gary Gerding named his top two favorite paints to use: Rust-Oleum 5300 epoxy paint & activator (readily available from Grainger $79/gallon); and Sherwin Williams Tile-Clad epoxy paint system (we have many local stores). The Rust-Oleum doesn't offer gray, so I would likely use black or see if someone local can/will tint gloss white. While I'm at it will also call one of the SW stores to find one that carries the commercial line, and then get price, availability, and color options.

It's been a lot of work so far, but the fun will start when it's up and running!

Henry

Henry Spadoni
Pioneer Valley Slot Club
100' Ogilvie Hillclimb
155' Ogilvie King


#43 Victor Poulin

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Posted 20 November 2011 - 03:49 PM

I think Gary used an epoxy on our track, but I can't remember if it was Sherwin Williams or not. Whatever one he did use has good bite, and is very durable.

It's all going to be worth it when your finished Henry, and you'll take a lot of pride in it knowing the amount of work that it took.
Best of luck to you, and thanks for posting your progress .

Vic
Alright, who cut the cheese?

#44 hfs3

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Posted 21 November 2011 - 06:53 PM

I think Gary used an epoxy on our track, but I can't remember if it was Sherwin Williams or not. Whatever one he did use has good bite, and is very durable.

It's all going to be worth it when your finished Henry, and you'll take a lot of pride in it knowing the amount of work that it took.
Best of luck to you, and thanks for posting your progress .

Vic


I read some of the threads about paint. Gary's top two choices were:
  • Sherwin Williams Tile-Clad (for Kings and banked tracks)
  • Rust-Oleum 5300(for flat or smaller scale tracks)
The Rust-Oleum 5300 is less expensive (~$79/gallon), but the color palette is limited. Black, white, blue, tan, etc., but no gray. The special NavyGray is $162/gallon (ouch).
The Sherwin Williams Tile-Clad has been discontinued and replaced with the Pro Industrial product High Performance Epoxy (~$100 w/activator and reducer). Plus, they have plenty of nice color options.

Both products are readily available, but the SW product is on the shelf at the store and will be color mixed on the spot. It's in stock at WW Grainger's web site and I haven't gone to a local store, so while the website said it would ship within 1 day, it might be in stock. The color choices available with the Sherwin Williams make it a winner for me. They have a shade called Graphite that is a near identical match to the OEM color. If I could get someone to tint the white Rust-Oleum for me, that could work...

Here's the quandary: Do I paint it now while there's no braid on it, or do I wait until the new braid I'm about to install wears out? Seems to me it would make mountains of sense to paint it now. It's in the perfect state for painting, save for sanding the surface to give the paint something to adhere to.

Thing is, we'd like to open for 12/1, but the epoxy paint takes 14 days at 50F-77F to fully cure - or 3 days at 100F (not going to happen). That would set us back about a week, but might be worth it in the long run...

Henry

Henry Spadoni
Pioneer Valley Slot Club
100' Ogilvie Hillclimb
155' Ogilvie King


#45 Bill from NH

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Posted 21 November 2011 - 07:31 PM

Henry, unless your existing racing surface is in excellent shape, I'd sand & paint it now before laying any new braid. An additional week or two in opening will seem nothing, especially after you've been open for 2 or 3 years. :)
Bill Fernald
 
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#46 hfs3

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Posted 21 November 2011 - 09:00 PM

Henry, unless your existing racing surface is in excellent shape, I'd sand & paint it now before laying any new braid. An additional week or two in opening will seem nothing, especially after you've been open for 2 or 3 years. :)


Bill,

I think I've talked myself into repainting the surface. The sacrifice in time to open looks to be well worth it!

Henry

Henry Spadoni
Pioneer Valley Slot Club
100' Ogilvie Hillclimb
155' Ogilvie King


#47 Victor Poulin

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Posted 22 November 2011 - 09:50 AM

Henry,
I agree with Bill, now's the time to paint it. Also, you might want to send Gary G a PM about the paint.
Just to double check. He usually keep an eye on whats going on here, and is very good at getting back to you.

14 days cure time seems a bit excessive to me?

Vic
Alright, who cut the cheese?

#48 hfs3

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Posted 22 November 2011 - 09:20 PM

Henry,
I agree with Bill, now's the time to paint it. Also, you might want to send Gary G a PM about the paint.
Just to double check. He usually keep an eye on whats going on here, and is very good at getting back to you.

14 days cure time seems a bit excessive to me?

Vic


The track is going to be repainted! The SW epoxy color "graphite" is a perfect match to the OEM color, so I'll go get it tomorrow. My brother is back, so I'll have help scuffing the surface, painting, laying tape, and laying braid. The cure time is for full hardness, where it can take the abuse of every day racing. The usage chart and times are supposed to be the same as the SW Tile-Clad. I'm willing to take the extra time if it needs it. It's going to be sweet when it's all done!

Henry

Henry Spadoni
Pioneer Valley Slot Club
100' Ogilvie Hillclimb
155' Ogilvie King


#49 hfs3

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Posted 24 November 2011 - 02:56 PM

Another delay... The SW epoxy paint won't be here until Tuesday, so we'll use the time to prep the track surface. Brian at Ogilvie recommended orbital sanding with 200 grit should be used to scuff the surface, including the lane stripes. When we're done with that, each section will be wiped with alcohol soaked rags and then wiped dry. There might even be time to paint the exterior walls (flat black) before we get to the track surface.

Henry Spadoni
Pioneer Valley Slot Club
100' Ogilvie Hillclimb
155' Ogilvie King


#50 hfs3

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Posted 26 November 2011 - 03:49 PM

Spent a few hours vacuuming the fine dust from the track surface. Also wiped the track with a naptha dampened rag to clean the gains, removing any particles or traces of goo from races past. Next step is an alcohol bath to get things squeaky clean and ready for paint. Here are a few shots of the sanded and cleaned track:

11-26-2011-01.jpg

11-26-2011-03.jpg

11-26-2011-02.jpg

At the same time, my brother removed the hardware from the driver station deck so it can be repainted.

He also started working on the King track. First thing was to remove the boxes that served as driver stations. A while back we discovered that the previous owner had done a terrible thing, with good intentions - he routed the gains smooth, but in so doing they became hideously deep. Like almost 1/8" deep. I did some research on thicker braid, found a supplier - even got a few samples - but even so, not enough to come close to spec. This is an old Ogilvie, made before they began rubber stamped the bottoms with their name instead of using magic marker. It will be a shame if this King track can't be restored to reasonable racing specs. We're considering a variety of ways to shim the gains, but haven't settled on anything yet. Any thoughts from anyone out there?

Henry Spadoni
Pioneer Valley Slot Club
100' Ogilvie Hillclimb
155' Ogilvie King






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