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New raceway coming to Chicopee, MA!


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#51 Charlie Burke

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Posted 27 November 2011 - 05:35 PM

I did this on a track I picked up, with the gains cut deep. First stripped off all the old braid and adhesive, clean the gain thoroughly, and use regular old plastic body filler (we called it juice, or mud)to build them up. One coat, then reroute the gain to the depth wanted (what is it, like .10?), and paint the track, apply the braid, and the problem was solved. Use an auto body squeegee to apply the body filler, try not to get any on the track surface...or you'll wind up having to sand it flat before you can use the router. I really can't remember if we put anything in the guide slot to keep the filler out...or routed it twice. Old age has a way of making one forget job details. Seems like this was pretty inexpensive, and it lasted. Hope to race on your tracks soon......wish I could help but the wife has me busy doing a new kitchen.......:-(




#52 hfs3

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Posted 28 November 2011 - 10:24 PM

I did this on a track I picked up, with the gains cut deep. First stripped off all the old braid and adhesive, clean the gain thoroughly, and use regular old plastic body filler (we called it juice, or mud)to build them up. One coat, then reroute the gain to the depth wanted (what is it, like .10?), and paint the track, apply the braid, and the problem was solved. Use an auto body squeegee to apply the body filler, try not to get any on the track surface...or you'll wind up having to sand it flat before you can use the router. I really can't remember if we put anything in the guide slot to keep the filler out...or routed it twice. Old age has a way of making one forget job details. Seems like this was pretty inexpensive, and it lasted. Hope to race on your tracks soon......wish I could help but the wife has me busy doing a new kitchen.......:-(


Hey Charlie, thanks for input. It's also what Ogilvie tracks recommended! Needless to day, that's the most likely route we'll go (no pun intended). Once it's routed and painted with epoxy, the gain should be completely stable. Assuming standard braid is ~.025" thick, the top of the braid should sit .02"-.03" below the surface at the most. Add in another .005" for the adhesive tape and the recess could be .030"-.050" so long as it's the same all around the track. While the paint is drying, and before I can start taping/braiding, I'll give the bondo/hp wood filler technique a shot. I have a 3/4" router bit with a 1/8" pin to follow the slot, so why not?

We should be open for racing in mid-December, allowing time for the paint to cure on the Hillclimb. Then it's a matter of setting the race schedules and classes. :) I'm thinking NECC classes, Parma FCR Spec racing, and $100 wing cars. It all depends on what our club members want to race.

Kitchen, eh? You could be tied up for some time...

Henry Spadoni
Pioneer Valley Slot Club
100' Ogilvie Hillclimb
155' Ogilvie King


#53 Rapid Rick

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Posted 29 November 2011 - 08:37 PM

Hello Henry...My name is Rick and with my sister Dawn we own Rapid Raceways in Plainville. Like many of us in New England we are excited that a new track...and possibly two..are being built in Mass.

I feel a bit bad that you have already striped all the "crud" from under the braid area. What me, and many track builders do is to just run a router at a depth that just removes the glue and keeps most of the paint in the "gains" as you call them. This gives you a surface that ither contact cement or 3M's material stick to with good strength.

I would recommend having a braid-re-cess of about 10-12 thousanths as this keeps the cars guild and tires (and any error in marshalling) from pulling-up the braid. It is still bound to happen but this helps big time.

Anyway...I can't wait to come race at your place. As a member of the NECC since its start, and a host track since 2002, I hope you'll have the ability to host some events in the future.

Please keep us updated with your track news and I'm hoping that I'll make your Grand Opening.

All the best!!!

RRR

Rick "Rapid" Raducha

Rapid Raceways
161 Woodford Avenue
Plainville, CT 06062
(860) 793-1888 | Directions
Owners: Rick Raducha/Dawn Raducha


#54 hfs3

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Posted 29 November 2011 - 10:57 PM

Hello Henry...My name is Rick and with my sister Dawn we own Rapid Raceways in Plainville. Like many of us in New England we are excited that a new track...and possibly two..are being built in Mass.

I feel a bit bad that you have already striped all the "crud" from under the braid area. What me, and many track builders do is to just run a router at a depth that just removes the glue and keeps most of the paint in the "gains" as you call them. This gives you a surface that ither contact cement or 3M's material stick to with good strength.

I would recommend having a braid-re-cess of about 10-12 thousanths as this keeps the cars guild and tires (and any error in marshalling) from pulling-up the braid. It is still bound to happen but this helps big time.

Anyway...I can't wait to come race at your place. As a member of the NECC since its start, and a host track since 2002, I hope you'll have the ability to host some events in the future.

Please keep us updated with your track news and I'm hoping that I'll make your Grand Opening.

All the best!!!

RRR


Rick,

Thanks for the expert advice, it might have saved me some time on the Hillclimb. All in all though, I'm happy with how things have turned out so far. The paint didn't arrive today, so painting won't start until tomorrow at the earliest. We're planning on opening with the Hillclimb and work on the King to get it RTR.

The King braid recesses will be filled, then routed. So if the recess is ~.010" from the top of the braid to the surface, then just add that tthe 3M tape thickness and the braid thickness to get the final depth. I'll be sure to mic the braid before making the routes.

The NECC sounds like a great program, something that's good for the hobby. I visited your track last year sometime, though you were up to your ears in tech for an event so we didn't get to chat. I'd love to come down sometime to pick your brain sometime! Of course, you are always welcome at our raceway. :) Will definitely keep you posted on when we open the doors.

I took a few pictures today of the room with two tracks beginning to assemble into race circuits:
11-29-2011-Overview.jpg

The driver's stations were different from the usual Ogilvie deck. Now disassembled, each station had a switch for direction or on/off (?), an indicator light, a clear plexiglass plate to hold a controller, and the requisite brass posts:
11-29-2011-Drivers-Stations.jpg

Apparently, this was a Red King, not a blue one as evidenced when the driver stations were removed:
11-29-2011-Main-St.jpg

Here's a field of banks & turns:
11-29-2011-Field-of-Turns.jpg

Lastly, here's the interface board (a parallel port interface?):
11-29-2011-Interface-board.jpg

More to come!
Henry

Henry Spadoni
Pioneer Valley Slot Club
100' Ogilvie Hillclimb
155' Ogilvie King


#55 James Grandi

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Posted 30 November 2011 - 12:14 PM

As a participating racer in the NECC since 2006, I look forward to having a new raceway introduced to the New England area, and potentially the NECC series. The last few years have not been kind to the series, as we have had a couple different raceways close down, and have thus lost some racers because of it. Hopefully, your raceway will thrive and attract racers to you, both of new and of old.

I live in RI, so when you do open, I'll be sure to take a ride over to see it!
James Grandi
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#56 hfs3

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Posted 30 November 2011 - 10:03 PM

James,

We like the idea of the NECC series! I've visited both Modelville and Rapid Raceway and loved their tracks. It's great to see people having fun. I look forward to being able to give area racers new and old a place to enjoy their hobby. With any luck, this business model should work longer term. Low overhead, value racing, and good fun.

When it gets close, I'll announce our opening date. Also, will post hours of operation, directions, membership details, etc.

Henry Spadoni
Pioneer Valley Slot Club
100' Ogilvie Hillclimb
155' Ogilvie King


#57 hfs3

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Posted 30 November 2011 - 10:19 PM

Today, I masked off the cove moulding that goes on the inside of the wall on the outside of each corner. The moulding is still in decent shape, however it had been contact cemented and stapled in place. We'd only make a bigger mess removing it. The track mating surfaces were also masked off to protect against accidental paint drips. Since I'm braiding the sections separately, I thought I'd also paint them separately. However, most pictures I've seen show tracks assembled while being painted. Is there any reason for that? If the makes the section seams smoother, I suppose I could understand that. How much difference can there really be, given the average applied paint thickness is .005"? Oh well... While I can't be sure, it looks like the sections were originally painted separately - though very carefully - perhaps masked off?

Henry Spadoni
Pioneer Valley Slot Club
100' Ogilvie Hillclimb
155' Ogilvie King


#58 hfs3

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Posted 05 December 2011 - 07:06 PM

In a holding pattern at the moment. The epoxy paint in the braid recess, softened by the adhesive remover, is still tacky after a week of sitting. Up until a few days ago, room temperature was 55F. So, I thought it might be too cold for the old epoxy to set up properly. The gas line to the furnace was installed a few days ago and it became possible to raise room temperature to 65F. Still, those areas remain tacky - can't say for sure they are less tacky, though. I've even rinsed a few different lanes with soapy water, naptha, iso alcohol, or xylene. Unfortunately, none of those substances had the desired effect. I'm tempted to just paint over everything, hoping the fresh coat of catalyzing epoxy paint does it's work on the old paint. Where it's tacky, would it compromise the new paint?

Maybe I should I wait it out a little longer? Once it becomes a waiting game, time always wins. The easiest course is to leave the heat up for a few more days to see if that helps, but I'm not convinced that will help matters.

Any thoughts out there?

Henry Spadoni
Pioneer Valley Slot Club
100' Ogilvie Hillclimb
155' Ogilvie King


#59 Charlie Burke

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Posted 05 December 2011 - 07:42 PM

Maybe some heat from a heat gun applied to the stubborn areas? Not too intense, just sort of a drive-by waving at the damp part.

#60 Victor Poulin

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Posted 05 December 2011 - 07:56 PM

Just be careful Henry, some epoxy's are not compatible with other epoxy's . If the paint under the new epoxy is wet and mixes with the new, it could lift or crack the under coat . Not trying to scare you, but I think I would try a dry up the old paint as best you can.

I think Charlies idea of trying a heat gun is a good one.


Vic
Alright, who cut the cheese?

#61 hfs3

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Posted 05 December 2011 - 11:10 PM

Just be careful Henry, some epoxy's are not compatible with other epoxy's . If the paint under the new epoxy is wet and mixes with the new, it could lift or crack the under coat . Not trying to scare you, but I think I would try a dry up the old paint as best you can.

I think Charlies idea of trying a heat gun is a good one.


Vic


When I was deciding on which paint to use, I contacted Ogilvie Tracks. Brian thought the SW epoxy should be no problem, so I'm hopeful. As for the still tacky old paint, I'm going to bring a hair dryer with me to see if that has any effect. It might be easier than using a heat gun, which in my hands would be a dangerous thing. Interestingly, the first few sections of track are dry. However, I used Xylene to strip the adhesive on those pieces, not Citristrip. We shall see what Tuesday brings...

Henry Spadoni
Pioneer Valley Slot Club
100' Ogilvie Hillclimb
155' Ogilvie King


#62 hfs3

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Posted 06 December 2011 - 09:10 PM

Hmmm. The paint in the gains does not want to harden/dry. The high temp hair dryer didn't so anything, nor did another 24 hours in 68F temp. When you run your finger along the tacky areas, it feels like nearly dry latex paint. That stuff would either make a great base for the new paint, or be a disaster. Time to contact the makers of Citristrip to see if they have any bright ideas. Will also call the local Sherwin-Williams guys to see if they can offer any advice. Ah well, tomorrow is another day.

Henry Spadoni
Pioneer Valley Slot Club
100' Ogilvie Hillclimb
155' Ogilvie King


#63 Vay Jonynas

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Posted 06 December 2011 - 09:37 PM

Just another case of whatever can go wrong does go wrong. Who would guess paint would refuse to dry?


<_<
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#64 hfs3

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Posted 07 December 2011 - 06:41 PM

Just another case of whatever can go wrong does go wrong. Who would guess paint would refuse to dry?

<_<


Vay,

That's so very true. Apparently, new ways are being found every day to foil even the best of plans. :D
Citristrip said to use mineral spirits if the soap and water didn't do a complete job. I'll give it a shot tomorrow. Short of sanding/routing the gains, the best way to see what would happen is to is to mix up a few tablespoons of epoxy and test a small area. I'd love to get painting so we can get to racing, but everything has to be right.

So, while that finishes up I'll move on to the King - stripping old braid, etc. Below is a shot of the King arranged in proper order (note the H/C upper straight lead-in sitting between the King bank and finger):

12-05-2011-02.jpg

Henry Spadoni
Pioneer Valley Slot Club
100' Ogilvie Hillclimb
155' Ogilvie King


#65 Victor Poulin

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Posted 07 December 2011 - 07:29 PM

Henry,
Maybe your right, try a small area somewhere and see what happens. At this point nothing gained, nothing lost?
You might just get lucky for a change lol.

Vic
Alright, who cut the cheese?

#66 Robert Roundy

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Posted 09 December 2011 - 09:57 AM

Hi Henry,

coming from a radio control background and a avid plane & boat builder building is half the fun.. But i feel your pain in wanting to have it perfect. You have made great progress. Remember if you you build it "We will come to race and have FUN". Thanks for all the updates too.
giggty giggty Let's Go Racing

#67 smigiel

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Posted 09 December 2011 - 06:35 PM

its all going to pay off in the end. but im hopping soon I cant wait to come down and run the tracks
Robert Smigiel

#68 hfs3

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Posted 09 December 2011 - 11:45 PM

Well, the test painting went well! There was no adverse reaction from the paint underneath and the new paint was drying nicely. Setting some aside for touch up, I mixed the gallon of epoxy with 1pint of hardener. Next, I added reducer (10:1) to cut down on the orange peel effect. Lastly, using a 9" roller with a 3/8" nap, I went at it. My son used a small brush to finish the areas near the wall the roller couldn't reach. When finished, it looked like this:

12-09-2011-01.jpg
12-09-2011-02.jpg

Assuming 1 coat will do it, all I have to do is wait a few days or so to stripe it. Then, lay tape and braid. In the meantime finish stripping the old braid from the King.

Nothing is perfect, but aiming high never hurts quality. :)
Racing will come soon!

Henry Spadoni
Pioneer Valley Slot Club
100' Ogilvie Hillclimb
155' Ogilvie King


#69 Victor Poulin

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Posted 10 December 2011 - 09:19 AM

Glad to hear it went well Henry !
Alright, who cut the cheese?

#70 Robert Roundy

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Posted 10 December 2011 - 07:12 PM

Looks like it went very well glad to hear and better to see Giggy'd Giggy'd Let's Go Racing.. :D
giggty giggty Let's Go Racing

#71 hfs3

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Posted 12 December 2011 - 09:04 AM

After two days, here's what the surface looks like close up. Despite it's appearance, it's smooth to the touch:

12-10-2011.jpg

Debating whether to do another coat...

Henry Spadoni
Pioneer Valley Slot Club
100' Ogilvie Hillclimb
155' Ogilvie King


#72 Victor Poulin

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Posted 12 December 2011 - 11:14 AM

Doesn't look like it needs another coat to me Henry. I think your good to go.
Alright, who cut the cheese?

#73 hfs3

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Posted 12 December 2011 - 07:17 PM

Doesn't look like it needs another coat to me Henry. I think your good to go.


I took a close look today and didn't see a uniform gloss finish - too many matte areas. So, tomorrow will be a painting day!

Henry Spadoni
Pioneer Valley Slot Club
100' Ogilvie Hillclimb
155' Ogilvie King


#74 Robert Roundy

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Posted 12 December 2011 - 10:05 PM

yeah that's the dreaded orange peel effect..I've had that happen to on one of my boats. Not sure why it does it but I know that it wont go away even if you put another coat on. looks funny but like you said it's smooth to touch. Getting psyched for turning some laps
giggty giggty Let's Go Racing

#75 Robert Roundy

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Posted 12 December 2011 - 10:17 PM

Posted Image

if you look close you can see it but it was smooth
giggty giggty Let's Go Racing





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