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Mercedes by Jairus, Iso Inline by Pablo


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#1 Pablo

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Posted 25 October 2011 - 08:44 PM

Finished January 2012:

post-91-0-50254200-1323471057.jpg

 

post-91-0-73058900-1326651738.jpg

 

post-91-0-75671900-1326651708.jpg

 

Here's where it all started:

Mercedes vintage body by Jairus will be arriving soon. biggrin.gif
Motor is a vintage Classic 26D endbell drive built by John Havlicek.
Bracket is a rare inline Cobra 26D. BBs are modern Pro Slot PS-420.
Wheels will be Electric Dreams .700" wide set screw with modern donuts.
BB holders (I call them "duffies") are custom built by Duffy.

My first experience with duffies, I am here to tell you, was fantastic.
The stock axle hole in the Cobra was 5/32".
The inner race of the duffy is .250" OD
I used a "step drill bit" to open the Cobra hole up to 1/4".
No drill press, no special tools, just a power drill and a lot of courage and prayer.
It worked perfect. The step bit does not grap and twist like a regular drill bit (Thanks Jay Guard !!) biggrin.gif Now, the duffies fit with just barely enough wiggle room to align it all on the jig and allow some solder to flow.

The BBs fit absolutely PERFECTLY in the duffies... just enough room left to allow some solder or some Loctite.

DSC04105.JPG


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#2 Duffy

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Posted 25 October 2011 - 08:57 PM

Thanks for nice words, Pablo. Coulda' made you a bracket, saved you the precious one!

Duffies (I'll jus' go along with it!) are machined to .001" clearance on pertinent diameters for solder flow. I tho't about it a little and figured that between the egging you get from a two-flute drill and the vagaries of jigging, we'll end up with more than .001" stackup in any roller we make anyway.

"Perfect" is what we start out dreaming about and "DamnGood" is what we aim for by the end.

Then we race.
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#3 Pablo

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Posted 25 October 2011 - 09:10 PM

It was intuitively obvious to even the most casual observer, the duffies were extremely well thought-out. :D
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#4 Jairus

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Posted 25 October 2011 - 09:31 PM

Body paint done.
Hand lettering tomorrow. Should be in the mail to you Thursday or Friday.
Wheel base is 3-3/4", track 2-5/8" front and rear.

Jairus H Watson - Artist
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#5 Pablo

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Posted 25 October 2011 - 09:53 PM

Thanks, Jairus. Not rushing you. I'm just an excitable boy. :laugh2:

So, it is a short, narrow body, eh? We shall see.
Meantime, the bracket and duffies go on as planned.

Next step was making the bracket square/aligned. Anybody who thinks this is easy, making a 40 year old flimsy piece of brass that has probably changed hands and been discarded in favor of straighter examples about 10 times, let me know :shok: Otherwise, excuse the plier marks in the brass.

DSC04106.JPG
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#6 Bill from NH

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Posted 25 October 2011 - 10:01 PM

Tape the plier jaw serations. No marks will then show. :)

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#7 Pablo

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Posted 25 October 2011 - 10:17 PM

Thanks, Bill. :D
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#8 Pablo

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Posted 25 October 2011 - 11:21 PM

Some guys need the latest newest jig to work with.
I just keep on rollin' with my old jigs.
Everything is aligned perfectly.
I will match my tolerances to anybody, anywhere.
I align, check, doublecheck, then solder.
The duffies are in place.

DSC04107.JPG

Next step: Bracket bracing. :D
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#9 Pablo

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Posted 26 October 2011 - 06:37 PM

Bracket is braced with a combination of .032" and .047" wire.
Those duffies are well-protected. :D

DSC04125.JPG
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#10 Jairus

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Posted 26 October 2011 - 07:21 PM

More solid than it needs to be! :D

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#11 Duffy

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Posted 26 October 2011 - 07:59 PM

Famouser last words were never posted.
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#12 Pablo

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Posted 26 October 2011 - 08:22 PM

Havlicek powerplant in a Mercedes requires a strong motor box. ;)
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#13 Jairus

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Posted 26 October 2011 - 08:22 PM

How about: "Hey guys, watch this!"

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#14 Pablo

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Posted 26 October 2011 - 08:24 PM

:laugh2:
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#15 Pablo

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Posted 06 November 2011 - 12:28 PM

The Jairus paint job is absolutely stunning, impeccably gorgeous :D

DSC04151.JPG

Jairus warned me about this body being small.
Now that I have it in hand, some major changes need to be made. The 26D motor and bracket won't work. I will use a short old 16D Mura instead. :D
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#16 Pablo

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Posted 07 November 2011 - 01:34 AM

Anybody know where I can get 2 prong knockoffs like these ?

Mercedes 2 prong knockoffs.jpg
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#17 Matt Sheldon

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Posted 07 November 2011 - 02:01 AM

Wow, Pablo what a looker! I am a sucker for silver cars with red guts, is the Mercedes logo on the hood hand painted? The cyan drivers suit is fantastic as well. Jairus did a really nice job on that!

Would not take a lot of effort to make the knockoffs out of styrene if they are not available in resin.

Matt Sheldon

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


#18 Pablo

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Posted 07 November 2011 - 02:11 AM

Hi Matt, :)

Yes, all the Jairus lettering is outside and by hand; it looks real!

Of course, Jairus is a pro. :icon22: His work is always fantastic!!!
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#19 Jairus

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Posted 07 November 2011 - 10:43 AM

I have those knock-offs. They are by Revell I think... or MPC.
They fit tight on the end of the axle so you have to drill a hole in the middle of the insert (if I find them).

Might take me a day or two to find them in this mess though... :rolleyes:

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#20 Victor Poulin

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Posted 07 November 2011 - 11:15 AM

Fantastic job!!! That thing is DA-BALLS!!! ;)

Jairus, once again you out-did yourself. :)

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#21 havlicek

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Posted 07 November 2011 - 12:08 PM

Man...what a lovely car!

-john
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#22 Pablo

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Posted 07 November 2011 - 01:20 PM

I have the inserts on order from Tom A. They are "Porsche #1" style
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#23 Pablo

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Posted 08 November 2011 - 08:04 PM

You can say that again, Matt, and John H, and Vic :D

If anybody out there is even paying attention :laugh2: in this pic you can see some interesting things, or at least they are interesting to me :laugh2: :

-Chris Briggs rear jig wheels mike at .815 and are used for setting the rear axle height for a .900 OD wheel.
-RGeo jig blocks are set up in front at the biggest 1/8 setting, plus I needed to add pieces of .015 brass to shim them up for .900 fronts. If I had 2 sets of Briggs jig wheels , I would have used them.
-Note the pair of "duffies" are soldered in place with a short of tube. It is only a matter of time before the prolific scratchbuilders here will discover the precise beauty of the duffies. The oilites are only for jigging purposes - the finished car will use new Professor Motor ball bearings.
-Spur gear will be a 36T nylon that mikes at .800
-First rail set will be brass but I may add wire rails to stiffen the works.

DSC04180.JPG
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#24 Pablo

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Posted 08 November 2011 - 08:19 PM

Moderators, please change the title of this thread from "Havlicek-powered Mercedes" to "Jairus painted Mercedes build". I originally intended to use a Havlicek 26D but the body was smaller than I anticipated. The H 26D will be used in another car at a later date. No harm no foul, without prejudice :D Thanks, Pablo
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#25 Pablo

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Posted 18 November 2011 - 04:55 PM

Non-traditional method of attaching drop arm :smoking:

DSC04191.JPG
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#26 JohnnySlotcar

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Posted 18 November 2011 - 05:24 PM

Look in ebay under seller HCE55 i think,He has the blind 2 prong knockoffs you need. They are the same as on some Classic brand cars and advertised as such.
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#27 Pablo

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Posted 18 November 2011 - 05:33 PM

I did a search on "HCE55" ....... no go
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#28 Duffy

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Posted 18 November 2011 - 06:23 PM

It is only a matter of time before the prolific scratchbuilders here will discover the precise beauty of the duffies. The oilites are only for jigging purposes - the finished car will use new Professor Motor ball bearings.


We "prolific scratchbuilders" need better tooling. A while back I got tired of everything sliding around as I fiddled with my jig setups,
and made up some "Jig Bushings" of stainless steel.

Duffy 48 OXCART 09.jpg

These borrow on R-Geo's axle collar concept, and you can see how--it's just, they're aluminum, and after prolonged exposure to
acid they resemble something you'd lure deer down to your treeblind with. So, I used STN for longer life.

I copied the R-Geo collars for outer stops that fetch right up to the jig pins, & then made "bushings" to lock up the inside stuff.
Once I have my chassis guts all centered &stuf, I can take things on & off as I please--OR, loosen just one side to swap gear out,
and then re-set in a jiffy.

I'm hoping some enterprising dood with a screw machine steps up and starts manufacturing this stuff, before the legions of
"prolific scratchbuilders" starts clamoring for it. Too PITA for mee!

Duffy
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#29 Pablo

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Posted 18 November 2011 - 10:45 PM

You mean like these ?

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#30 Mopar Rob

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Posted 18 November 2011 - 11:04 PM

Pablo:


No, not like the leftover gears parts your showing. What Duffy made were a collar and bushing all in one that is made of stainless steel so it doesn't get nasty from the acid flux. Less parts, less slop = more prececision when building. All I know is I wished I had know Duffy made these this past Monday, then I would have been begging for a set in the care package.
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Rob was right!


#31 Pablo

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Posted 18 November 2011 - 11:12 PM

Ah, I get it now....they have dummy bushing thingies built in. Thanks Rob.
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#32 Pablo

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Posted 20 November 2011 - 12:20 AM

Chassis is done.

Attached Images

  • DSC04200.JPG
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#33 Jairus

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Posted 20 November 2011 - 09:54 AM

Very nice! Are you going with wide wheels in the back? What diameter wheel/tires are you planning to install?

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#34 Pablo

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Posted 20 November 2011 - 10:12 AM

Thanks for asking, Mr. Watson :wave: .900 OD front and rear, 2.50 widths front and rear.
Stand by.... :spiteful:
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#35 Pablo

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Posted 21 November 2011 - 05:19 PM

Here is the answer to your wheels question, Jairus, "How do you like me now" ? :ok:
I just got word that the car under it needs to be changed. So, the anglewinder/short stack Mura will find a home elsewhere.
I'm going to find, or build, a new inline for this Mercedes. The wheels, I think, can stay :i-m_so_happy: What do y'all think ??? About the wheels, anyway ?
Note: The body was not mounted, and the interior has NOT been modifed (yet), so it looks a little crooked.

Attached Images

  • DSC04210.JPG
  • DSC04211.JPG

Edited by Pablo, 21 November 2011 - 05:22 PM.

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#36 4wheeldrift

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Posted 21 November 2011 - 07:20 PM

The Jairus paint job is absolutely stunning, impeccably gorgeous Posted Image

DSC04151.JPG

Jairus warned me about this body being small.
Now that I have it in hand, some major changes need to be made. The 26D motor and bracket won't work. I will use a short old 16D Mura instead. Posted Image

A really unusual car to replicate. Nicely done!
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#37 Pablo

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Posted 21 November 2011 - 07:58 PM

Thanks, David :yawnface: But, it ain't done yet. Stand by, I build real S L O W
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#38 Jairus

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Posted 21 November 2011 - 09:38 PM

Are you starting over? I take it you are starting over so my suggestions are:
Go old school and that means 1" tire dia. minimum and a Russkit 22 or even older with a Pittman or Kemtron motor hung out the back.

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#39 Duffy

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Posted 21 November 2011 - 09:53 PM

Are you starting over? I take it you are starting over so my suggestions are:
Go old school and that means 1" tire dia. minimum and a Russkit 22 or even older with a Pittman or Kemtron motor hung out the back.


Oooh! Sounds like a "Wayback Machine" job to mee!
You mean something like THIS??

PittCobra6.jpg

From what seems like a long time ago, but I'm kinda tempted to revisit now, in my rapidly-vanishing free time...

Duffy
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#40 Jairus

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Posted 21 November 2011 - 10:46 PM

Bingo! Duffy gets it. :)

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#41 Pablo

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Posted 22 November 2011 - 12:49 AM

Thanks Jairus and Duffy, yes I am starting over, but I'm thinking a single hole Mura inline jaildoor.
Paul Wolcott

#42 Pablo

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Posted 02 December 2011 - 08:41 PM

Once again, the duffies save time, are super sano, and just plain work.
Up front is a Rick's guide flag doohickey.

Thanks, Bill, for zapping the mags for the 1 hole Mura. :)

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#43 mdiv

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Posted 02 December 2011 - 08:51 PM

Paul,

I assume you're going to use the Mercedes body. If so, be aware that the motor might not fit with the deep interior.

I'm finding that most of my vintage builds end up with either no interior, a more contemporary interior, or having to use a sidewinder.

Regardless, tagged this one and can't wait to see your magic! :)

Mikey

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#44 Pablo

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Posted 02 December 2011 - 08:59 PM

Thanks, Mikey !!! :D

You are right, it is tight. I originally tried a 26D, no go. A 16D will fit, but it is tight. The passenger seat may interfere a little.
Jairus gave me detailed instructions on how to heat distort an interior.
I was scared to death to do it, and ruin a "Jairus" interior, but after I read the instructions, I am no longer afraid.
Plus, I can do a test run on a "practice" interior before I go "hot" on the real one.
If anybody wants those instructions, let me know via PM. dc-65-x gets credit also, he may have been the originator of this method, I don't know. :D
Paul Wolcott

#45 dc-65x

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Posted 03 December 2011 - 11:39 AM

Hi Pablo,

Here's the method for bulging the interior I posted a few years ago.


I got the body mounted and then the same old problem with the interior showed its ugly head. The thing is made for a full sidewinder application and won't fit an inline. Here's a fix that looks pretty good and only takes about 10 minutes. Put a stripped can and end bell in your chassis like this. I used some Teflon tape on the can just to make sure it wouldn't stick to the interior. I'm not sure this is really necessary though:

Posted Image

Tape the interior into the body and force the body onto the chassis. Turn it upside down and apply heat from your soldering iron and

Posted Image

BAM! The interior will mold itself around the motor can:

Posted Image

Here is the modified interior on the left and stock on the right:

Posted Image


This works really slick. I just used it to fit a big 26D into my Team Russkit McLaren MkII with the same Lotus 40 interior.

Build on Pablo, I always enjoy your threads! :good:

Rick Thigpen
Check out Steve Okeefe's great web site at its new home here at Slotblog:
The Independent Scratchbuilder
There's much more to come...


#46 Jairus

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Posted 03 December 2011 - 01:14 PM

Yup, it's that easy!
I have never used the teflon tape and my process is done right side up so I can SEE the interior deform and feel if the plastic is getting sticky enough to stick.

Even if it does, that is not a problem. Just pull the heat away and soon as the can cools you can pop them apart.

Jairus H Watson - Artist
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Check out some of the cool stuff on my Fotki!


#47 dc-65x

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Posted 03 December 2011 - 01:22 PM

Hi Jairus,

I just want to let the guys know that if you hold the car right side up with the iron under it....HEAT RISES!. Watch out where the soldering is in relation to the body. I stupidly forgot to do this, got the iron too close and toasted a Lancer Eagle V12 GP body :unknw: .

Since I tend to repeat my mistakes, I now hold the car upside down with the iron on top as shown :laugh2: .

Rick Thigpen
Check out Steve Okeefe's great web site at its new home here at Slotblog:
The Independent Scratchbuilder
There's much more to come...


#48 Pablo

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Posted 03 December 2011 - 04:49 PM

Thank you, gentlemen !! I'll be trying it on an old test body soon. The Mercedes is gonna need it.

Chassis is ISO'ed up ! Now it's time for floppy rod rails....

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Paul Wolcott

#49 Pablo

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Posted 03 December 2011 - 11:27 PM

DSC04234.JPG

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  • C. J. Bupgoo likes this
Paul Wolcott

#50 Alchemist

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Posted 04 December 2011 - 12:08 AM

That's real nice Paul - Wow!!! Can't wait to see this car completed and basking in its' sartorial splendor!!

Ernie
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