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Removing threads on machine screw guide pins


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#1 Todd Cuzzort

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Posted 03 November 2011 - 09:31 AM

Newcomer here, so glad to have had Pat tell me about this place... go easy on me, I'm a rookie... ;)

Just wondering the best way to remove the threads on machine screws you are using for guide pins, if you don't have a lathe?

I am working on some builds with wiper guides and will be using 0-80 machine screws for guide pins, but I have no lathe and can't figure out an effective way to skim the threads off the lower part of the screw.

Any advice is greatly appreciated.
Todd Cuzzort
Princeton, IN




#2 Cheater

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Posted 03 November 2011 - 09:38 AM

Todd,

I'll bet you have a poor man's lathe - a hand-held drill!

Chuck your screws in the drill, spin it up, and apply a needle file to the rotating screw to remove the threads. Works best with a variable speed drill.

Yeah, it's kind of shade-tree, but I have used this technique to remove the threads from screws in the past, using both a full-size drill and a Dremel Moto-Tool.

Gregory Wells

Never forget that first place goes to the racer with the MOST laps, not the racer with the FASTEST lap


#3 Todd Cuzzort

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Posted 03 November 2011 - 10:02 AM

Great idea... I did let that cross my mind for a split second, unfortunately, I couldn't get past the thought of the screw head. Do you chuck the head in there or the very end of the screw? If I put the end of the screw in, at the very most tip, what I can't file off, I can cut off.

I have both a Dremel, and a cordless Craftsman drill. I also have a Proxxon drill press I could use.

Thanks so much for the helpful information though. ;)
Todd Cuzzort
Princeton, IN

#4 Cheater

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Posted 03 November 2011 - 10:12 AM

Todd,

How you will be able to chuck the screw is going to depend on the specifics of the chuck design. On some chucks there can be clearance for the screw head underneath the actual gripping tips of the chuck "fingers".

Gregory Wells

Never forget that first place goes to the racer with the MOST laps, not the racer with the FASTEST lap


#5 TSR

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Posted 03 November 2011 - 10:33 AM

Since an 0-80 will clear the slot of most HO tracks, I would leave the threads on the screw as they will help provide more retention inside the slot and offer an advantage in cornering speed until they wear out... :)

#6 Pat McGee

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Posted 03 November 2011 - 12:32 PM

... until they wear out


What, Dokk, the threads, or the top of the slot? :rolleyes:
What's all this brouhaha?

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#7 chaparrAL

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Posted 03 November 2011 - 01:14 PM

I prefer stainless steel O-80 to save wear. Remove the screw head with the Dremel then turn down to .050" to .055" with a file. A diamond rasp will do quick work.
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#8 TSR

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Posted 03 November 2011 - 01:17 PM

What, Dokk, the threads, or the top of the slot?

The threads of course. We used to have Associated "Steube" guides in our 1/24 scale pro-racing cars with side indentations on the blade molded to do exactly that job, try to keep the guide from rising inside the slot. Worked quite well, too... :)

#9 Todd Cuzzort

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Posted 03 November 2011 - 09:04 PM

I was just going to leave them, but they are hanging up in a lot of my slots/joints on my AFX track. I tried filing them today by way of cheater's idea, but I only have some cheap little files from HF and they don't really cut it. Looks like I need to find a diamond rasp or a better needle file... LOL.
Todd Cuzzort
Princeton, IN

#10 MG Brown

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Posted 03 November 2011 - 09:12 PM

Back in the ancient days we just took a Dremel cutting disc and flattened both sides of the screw (when installed in place) to make a squarish guide pin. Also angled the bottom of the pin shallower at the front and deeper at the rear. Some guys shaped the pin sort of triangular with the leading edge being thinner.

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#11 Bill from NH

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Posted 03 November 2011 - 09:14 PM

Todd,

Do you need a threaded machine screw for the guide pin? Would a length of piano wire, which has no threads, work? .039", .047", .055", and .063" are commonly available diameters.

Bill Fernald
 

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#12 Todd Cuzzort

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Posted 04 November 2011 - 01:07 PM

I kinda need threads due to the way it mounts and its position is user changeable. I could get some piano wire or straight rod stock, and just use a die on the very top end about an 1/8 of an inch. Then, glue a 0-80 nut on the threads, then I have a smooth lower, with threads right under the head, with a nut to use to tighten it.

Which now I just realized that won't work, as the stock needs to be narrower to fit down in the threaded hole... urrrggghhh... ;)

I might just try the Dremel the sides off idea.

I'd like to use a slide guide, but I'm afraid since the car is as low as a stock Mega G, there won't be enough room.
Todd Cuzzort
Princeton, IN

#13 Pat McGee

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Posted 05 November 2011 - 10:59 AM

I'd always used a piano wire guide pin, bent in an "L" and soldered directly to the pan, carved to shape as MG noted with a dremel. My A/FX vintage builds are set up that way- first time I've ever used a TCP pan, always cut my own back when (thanks, Doug!). May do that with my landshark inline rather than use the threaded pin.


What's all this brouhaha?

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#14 Todd Cuzzort

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Posted 06 November 2011 - 10:11 AM

I'm using a spare guide pin Doug sent me with an order a while back for now. I will keep experimenting. I definitely appreciate everyone's input for sure.
Todd Cuzzort
Princeton, IN

#15 Duffy

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Posted 06 November 2011 - 10:37 AM

I have to make a confession.
For three days I've been looking at the heading here and I keep half-expecting it to be about something in the "Board Tutorials and Info" category.
"Threads may be removed by the person originally posting them, or at the discretion of a Moderator..."
Okay, I will go away now.
Duf
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#16 Todd Cuzzort

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Posted 12 January 2012 - 10:14 PM

so lo and behold, after getting hex head screws in brass, I can mount them in my proxxon drill press and use a tiny jewlers file and viola....no more threads. So much easier....;)
Todd Cuzzort
Princeton, IN

#17 havlicek

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Posted 14 January 2012 - 07:57 AM

use a tiny jewlers file and viola....no more threads. So much easier.... ;)


I get how the jeweler's file works and they're cheap enough...but a viola!? :D

-john
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#18 zipper

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Posted 14 January 2012 - 10:57 AM

...but a viola!? :D

Too big hands to play a violin? :crazy:
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#19 Gator Bob

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Posted 14 January 2012 - 05:48 PM

Since an 0-80 will clear the slot of most HO tracks, I would leave the threads on the screw as they will help provide more retention inside the slot and offer an advantage in cornering speed until they wear out... Posted Image

And maybe reduced friction ;)


Todd, kinda like Duf said.... If all else fails ask Cheater, he can remove anything that pertains to 'threading..

Duf, I by pasted this one many times with the same exact thought...."it's weird" how we could be "two screws in a slot".
Posted Image
                            Bob Israelite

#20 Todd Cuzzort

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Posted 16 January 2012 - 02:01 PM

lol...I guess it's obvious...foreign language is NOT my strong area.....;)
Todd Cuzzort
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#21 TSR

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Posted 16 January 2012 - 02:11 PM

For the Duffster:

"Viola" is a deformation of the French word "voila" meaning, "here, it's done". Of course one may play a viola (alto violin) but rarely on a slot car forum.
The deformation of French words is incredibly common in the English language, the best example being the famous "coup de gras", meaning "a cut of fat" in French. The proper spelling is of course, "coup de grace", meaning, "final blow".
And of course there is the famous "coupe de grass" that the gardener knows a lot about.

#22 Duffy

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Posted 16 January 2012 - 03:12 PM

For the Duffster: "Viola" is a deformation of the French...

Dites-Qui? I wasn't in on the musical discussion; and even if I was, who wants to hear from the harmonica player.

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#23 Bill from NH

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Posted 16 January 2012 - 03:54 PM

I like harmonica players! Growing up in Maine, I was friends with six local kids & their dad who played with a televised country western band & they called themselves 'The Hamonica Kids.' I also later worked with a former hobo named Bill Rich who was quite a harmonica player. :)

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#24 TSR

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Posted 16 January 2012 - 04:18 PM

"Dites-Qui?" has no meaning in French. :)

#25 Duffy

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Posted 16 January 2012 - 04:50 PM

"Dites-Qui?" has no meaning in French.


That was my intent, Philippe: I mashed-up the American idiom "SayWHAT?" in provincial-Yank self-parody.

But I am hijacking too much. We now return you to the regular thread thread.
Duffy
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#26 Gator Bob

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Posted 16 January 2012 - 05:00 PM

Of course one may play a viola (alto violin) but rarely on a slot car forum.



Don't laugh...well OK laugh. :blush:

I chose the Viola to play in grade school music class, instead of practicing after school I played the Aurora HO, the clickety sound was real music to the ears. :sarcastic_hand:

I switched to drums ASAP and have been making a bunch of loud noise ever since. :pardon:
Posted Image
                            Bob Israelite

#27 TSR

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Posted 16 January 2012 - 05:58 PM

Including here.

#28 Gator Bob

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Posted 16 January 2012 - 07:10 PM

How was that for a lead in Dokk? ;)
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                            Bob Israelite

#29 TSR

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Posted 16 January 2012 - 08:47 PM

Just want to keep you on your toes... :)

#30 Horsepower

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Posted 18 January 2012 - 05:31 PM

I have to make a confession.
For three days I've been looking at the heading here and I keep half-expecting it to be about something in the "Board Tutorials and Info" category.
"Threads may be removed by the person originally posting them, or at the discretion of a Moderator..."
Okay, I will go away now.
Duf

Including here.


FINALLY! A GOOD LAUGH (or two)! :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2:
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#31 A. J. Hoyt

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Posted 23 January 2012 - 11:57 PM

I am pretty sure that you did not mean you would glue the 0-80 nut onto a brass chassis, right? It is begging to be soldered on if it is going into brass.

I recall that the 0-80 threaded hex head screws were popular "back in the day" because the TCP pans had a guide pin hole that was already tapped for an 0-80 screw to bottom the underside of the head on the top of the pan, even using the TCP wheel nut wrench to do it, then hope against hope that one did not strip the threads in the pan as there was only about .020 to .031 of thread even available - not even close to an acceptable 1.5 thread diameter and, worse, it is brass! (I recently found some TCP threaded guide pins already turned down with only about .031 or so of the threads left near the underside of the head, unused because I never trusted such a small thread engagement!)

Further, to grind the threads off of the sides, how could one ensure that the 0-80 screw (repurposed as a guide pin) would ever thread in tight to the same position? It could "wander" with subsequent tightenings and be clocked wrong.

Another aside, what would heavy gravity cars with threaded guide pins do to the walls of the slot with plastic track? It could cut grooves in the walls but it seems that threads would be angled slightly downward (toward the front) on the left side and slightly upward (on the right side due to the inclined plane of the helix), potentially lifting the car out of the slot on a left hand turn (if I have that correct)...I tended (and still do) to over-analyze these things.

Plus, pin position was very important, depending on how tight and twisty the track is - shorter guide lead on a short, twisty track and longer guide lead on a track that has lots of large radius turns, if memory serves. A great arrangement today would be some kind of 0-80 nut soldered on top of a washer that could be loosened from underneath and slid forward or aftward for testing and, maybe, even moved to optimized predetermined positions depending on the lane.

Just thinking about how I might do it today. Any other thoughts on this?

Keep it in the slot,

AJ

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#32 NSwanberg

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Posted 25 January 2012 - 04:36 PM

That is enough thinking for one thread.
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#33 Todd Cuzzort

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Posted 26 January 2012 - 12:31 AM

That is enough thinking for one thread.


we got like 20-something to go, because there is like 30 threads on a 0-80 screw.....;)

------------

as it is I enjoyed AJ's post. A lot to think about. With what I am working on, I have managed to completely clean the threads off, except the top threads under the head like AJ mentioned. I've ran the doo doo out of the car I'm building and testing and the screw guide never came loose. Which surprised me, in that I thought without having a shaker instead using a stock Tomy body, the vibration would have rattled it loose. The car doesn't really have much vibration I'm guessing. I tapped the holes in the brass and I can actually tighten the brass hex fairly tight. No problems yet...knock on lumber!

I've also rounded the bottom end off a bit, so it's more like a stock guide pin. It works, and it's nice and quick with my proxxon and a file. Oddly enough, the hex brass screws I have, are tightened with a tool from a toy skateboard which is a perfect fit. It made life easy finding something handy to tighten them. I use the socket end for when I want to move the guide pin to one of the other locations, and the opposite end of the tool has a 00 phillips which works for the 4 screws holding the chassis together. 1 tool, 2 jobs, I got lucky...lol
Todd Cuzzort
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