38 replies to this topic

[Foamy]

Yes I know John but some people have problems and do not use proper iron use .... Its not that they do it at one time but over many re-motor mounts .... like I said I have no problem with JB weld. But when you build for others..... I'll have to try Skinners.... George where do you get it????

BP should have it in stock. That's where I got mine at.

[Chris Barnes]

Vic, One of the questions not asked is "Is the motor to be soldered in"? If so, and in anglewinder, every time you solder it in, the epoxy or super glue will be affected - unless you use Skinner's epoxy. To remove magnets that are connected with JB Weld and Koford epoxy you will add heat. So if you use the motor in anglewinder configuration, solder quickly.

[Big Mike]

Skinners is aval. through port jeff raceway its 59.95 a bottle plus shipping just to answer your question barney

[Victor Poulin]

These are motors that I build or rebuild for sale and for other racers, so yes I would say they will be soldered in for the most part.
I just want to improve on the overall quality and longevity of my builds. Build time or cure time is not so much a factor, as I do this as my hobby and have plenty of time.

Vic

[HarV Wallbanger III]

Thanks, guys!

[James Grandi]

After reading about Skinner's (in this thread and searching others), I decided to buy some and give it a try.

Just wanted to ask, is it correct that it should be kept in a fridge, and at what temperature does it need to cure at? There are no instructions on the small glass bottle

[gotboostedvr6]

Loctite 410 Prism, in black, is your ticket.

Apply after they are in the final location warm up the can to around 110 degrees with a torch and race ten mins later.

Built 30-some motors with this adhesive and never had a mag pop out.

It's so good i haven't been able to remove a mag for replacement.

[DannyHotShot1]

Yeah, I heard that the Loctite 410 Prism works good.

I also heard that JB Weld also works good.

[zipper]

Loctite 410 Prism, in black is your ticket.

Well, not for hotter motors, it stands just for 250 F. Then it's easy to break.

[havlicek]

Yeah... I thought the Loctite stuff was just a "gap-filling" CA.

-john

[zipper]

It seems to have some rubber-like filler.

[gotboostedvr6]

I dont know whats in it i just know it works very well.

[Richard Matthews]

JB Weld "Marine" formula. You don't have to bake it, but you can warm it to speed the curing. Even without speed-curing it, it's good to go after a few hours and fully cured some hours later.

According to the packaging, it's good to something like 400F which, even if somewhat optimistic, is way more than you'd ever likely encounter with a set of magnets that weren't headed for doom. I don't know that it provides any advantage, but the fact that JB Weld's "filler" is powdered iron and the material is magnetic might be a good thing for the can/magnet field thing. In any case, it's inexpensive, strong as all get-out, and easy to work with.

As for process... what Greg said (of course!). Rough-up the inside of the can and clean the can and magnets with acetone and have at it.

-john
Is this still a good epoxy to use, or are there better newer ones? 

[dc-65x]

 

If all else fails, this stuff is actually sold to glue in slot car magnets and it works.

 

Link below:

 

KOFORD MAGNET EPOXY AT PCH PARTS EXPRESS