Fellas,
Does anyone sell wheel inserts???
Thank you.
Wheel inserts?
Started by
Pete L.
, Jan 07 2012 08:45 PM
18 replies to this topic
#1
Pete L.
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Posted 07 January 2012 - 08:45 PM
Peter J. Linszky
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Posted 07 January 2012 - 10:11 PM
Hi Peter,
Have you seen this?
http://www.slotcaril...2_articleid=168
Most people will agree that Slot.it aluminum hubs make a great improvement to almost any slot car. The hub is always true and the setscrew keeps them from spinning on their axles or worse yet having the wheel fall of during a critical lap of a league race. The only problem we have found with the Slot.it hubs are the standard BBS mesh style inserts. I have painted them different colors but they still lack the style and scale accuracy some of us are looking for.
Recently I upgraded my non-Sport version of a Scalextric GT-40 #6 with a set of Slot.it hubs, drill blank axle and gear set. Functionally this made a dramatic improvement in the smoothness of the car on our wood track, but aesthetically they were awful. Since I wasn’t ever going to the plastic hubs I took off my GT-40 for anything else, why not make new inserts from the old plastic wheels? What follows are the simple steps I followed to create wheel inserts from my old plastic hubs.
Materials Required:
How To...
The first item is to replace the standard collet in the Dremel tool with the 3/32 collet and remove one of the plastic wheels from the stock axle assembly. The GT-40 is a sidewinder so I removed the wheel opposite the crown gear. I chucked up the axle and remaining wheel in the Dremel tool and removed the tire from the wheel.
Before doing any of the next steps, get out and use those safety glasses. You bought them for a reason, remember? Okay, using a file, I ran the wheel against a file to take off the center rib and the bulk of the material. You can skip this step and go right to the emery board or sanding block, it will just take longer to sand the wheel to size.
I have highlighted the direction of rotation for the Dremel and note that the teeth on the file are point towards the camera. Move the wheel back and forth on the file while running the Dremel to keep the file from clogging. If the wheel spins against plastic filings you will melt everything rather than cutting it. You should end up with this. 
At this point the axle started to spin inside the wheel so I added a small drop of CA glue inside the wheels hub (pic) before putting the wheel back on the axle.
Once the CA had set up, I took the axle/wheel assembly to an emery board (these are oversized boards I got in a large pack of 20 at Walgreen’s. Yes, in the makeup isle). I kept “sanding” the wheel and would do an occasional “fit test” with the Slot.it hub. The emery board helps to keep the sanding flat from the front to the back of the wheel so you don’t end up with troughs or grooves in your wheel insert.
Keep sanding and testing until the wheel fits snug, but not tight, into the Slot.it hub.
I used a Sharpie marker to mark the circumference of the wheel where the backs of the spokes were. I made an observational guess, erring toward the back of the wheel. It’s always easier to take off more with a second cut than to try and glue a mess back together where you cut off too much.
Using an Xacto knife I held it against the wheel as it spun in the Dremel tool at the line I just made with the Sharpie. Like a lathe the blade cut through the wheel at the line I had marked. We’re getting close now. You should have three pieces as shown here.
Using the Xacto knife I scraped off the glue that was holding on the “brake disc”. You may not have this piece, but if you do, don’t skip this step. It adds so much to the finished product.
Remove the brake disc from the back of the wheel. Put the wheel (without the brake disc) back on to the axle that is still in the Dremel tool and use the Xacto knife to cut trough the axle hub as shown.
Now for some cleanup work, clean up the edges by scraping the blade of the Xacto knife along the edge to remove the extra material. Do not “dig” the blade into the wheel, it very thin now and you could cut your wheel in half ruining all the work you’ve done so far. Also, clean up the back of the axle hub, making sure it is flush with the backs of the wheels spokes.
This is what you should have now; shown with contrasting background so you can see it better. Using a 9/64” drill bit, I reamed out the axle hub so that it will fit over the axle flange inside the Slot.it hub. Do this by turning the drill bit by hand. Do not use anything to hold the drill or the wheel. You need to “feel” and see how much material is being removed from the wheel. If you go too quickly or let the bit bite too deeply, you could put a hole in the middle of your wheel and this is not what you want. I have exaggerated the contrast on thisimage so that you can see how deep the axle hub has been reamed. Depending on your wheel type, you may not need to remove much so test fit often. 
Using a small amount of CA, glue the “brake disc” removed earlier to the back of the wheel. If you have Fred Flintstone fingers like I do, you may want to position the disc on the back of the wheel with the tip of the Xacto knife or a pair of needle nose pliers before attempting to glue it. Use the glue sparingly around the inside of the disc where it meets the reamed out hub. You don’t want the CA to be visible on the spokes of the wheel. Now is the moment of truth, remove the BBS mesh insert from the Slot.it wheel and insert your new wheel insert in its place. If you’ve followed along you should have a Slot.it wheel with an insert that matches your stock plastic wheels. Install those wheels on your car and admire your work. On this car I may paint the inside back of the Slot.it wheels flat black to enhance the illusion of aluminum spoke wheels.
Have you seen this?
http://www.slotcaril...2_articleid=168
Most people will agree that Slot.it aluminum hubs make a great improvement to almost any slot car. The hub is always true and the setscrew keeps them from spinning on their axles or worse yet having the wheel fall of during a critical lap of a league race. The only problem we have found with the Slot.it hubs are the standard BBS mesh style inserts. I have painted them different colors but they still lack the style and scale accuracy some of us are looking for.
Recently I upgraded my non-Sport version of a Scalextric GT-40 #6 with a set of Slot.it hubs, drill blank axle and gear set. Functionally this made a dramatic improvement in the smoothness of the car on our wood track, but aesthetically they were awful. Since I wasn’t ever going to the plastic hubs I took off my GT-40 for anything else, why not make new inserts from the old plastic wheels? What follows are the simple steps I followed to create wheel inserts from my old plastic hubs.Materials Required:
- New Slot.it hubs (I used the large hubs SIPA10)
- Take-off plastic wheels and stock axle
- Emery Boards
- CA Glue (Super Glue, Crazy Glue)
Tools Required: - Dremel rotary tool or equivalent
- 3/32” collet for Dremel (has 3 bands) pic
- Machinists file, emery board, or sanding block
- Xacto knife or similar
- 9/64” drill bit
- Sharpie Pen
- Safety Glasses
How To...
The first item is to replace the standard collet in the Dremel tool with the 3/32 collet and remove one of the plastic wheels from the stock axle assembly. The GT-40 is a sidewinder so I removed the wheel opposite the crown gear. I chucked up the axle and remaining wheel in the Dremel tool and removed the tire from the wheel.Before doing any of the next steps, get out and use those safety glasses. You bought them for a reason, remember? Okay, using a file, I ran the wheel against a file to take off the center rib and the bulk of the material. You can skip this step and go right to the emery board or sanding block, it will just take longer to sand the wheel to size.
I have highlighted the direction of rotation for the Dremel and note that the teeth on the file are point towards the camera. Move the wheel back and forth on the file while running the Dremel to keep the file from clogging. If the wheel spins against plastic filings you will melt everything rather than cutting it. You should end up with this. At this point the axle started to spin inside the wheel so I added a small drop of CA glue inside the wheels hub (pic) before putting the wheel back on the axle.Once the CA had set up, I took the axle/wheel assembly to an emery board (these are oversized boards I got in a large pack of 20 at Walgreen’s. Yes, in the makeup isle). I kept “sanding” the wheel and would do an occasional “fit test” with the Slot.it hub. The emery board helps to keep the sanding flat from the front to the back of the wheel so you don’t end up with troughs or grooves in your wheel insert.
Keep sanding and testing until the wheel fits snug, but not tight, into the Slot.it hub.I used a Sharpie marker to mark the circumference of the wheel where the backs of the spokes were. I made an observational guess, erring toward the back of the wheel. It’s always easier to take off more with a second cut than to try and glue a mess back together where you cut off too much.
Using an Xacto knife I held it against the wheel as it spun in the Dremel tool at the line I just made with the Sharpie. Like a lathe the blade cut through the wheel at the line I had marked. We’re getting close now. You should have three pieces as shown here.Using the Xacto knife I scraped off the glue that was holding on the “brake disc”. You may not have this piece, but if you do, don’t skip this step. It adds so much to the finished product.
Remove the brake disc from the back of the wheel. Put the wheel (without the brake disc) back on to the axle that is still in the Dremel tool and use the Xacto knife to cut trough the axle hub as shown.Now for some cleanup work, clean up the edges by scraping the blade of the Xacto knife along the edge to remove the extra material. Do not “dig” the blade into the wheel, it very thin now and you could cut your wheel in half ruining all the work you’ve done so far. Also, clean up the back of the axle hub, making sure it is flush with the backs of the wheels spokes.
This is what you should have now; shown with contrasting background so you can see it better. Using a 9/64” drill bit, I reamed out the axle hub so that it will fit over the axle flange inside the Slot.it hub. Do this by turning the drill bit by hand. Do not use anything to hold the drill or the wheel. You need to “feel” and see how much material is being removed from the wheel. If you go too quickly or let the bit bite too deeply, you could put a hole in the middle of your wheel and this is not what you want. I have exaggerated the contrast on thisimage so that you can see how deep the axle hub has been reamed. Depending on your wheel type, you may not need to remove much so test fit often. Using a small amount of CA, glue the “brake disc” removed earlier to the back of the wheel. If you have Fred Flintstone fingers like I do, you may want to position the disc on the back of the wheel with the tip of the Xacto knife or a pair of needle nose pliers before attempting to glue it. Use the glue sparingly around the inside of the disc where it meets the reamed out hub. You don’t want the CA to be visible on the spokes of the wheel. Now is the moment of truth, remove the BBS mesh insert from the Slot.it wheel and insert your new wheel insert in its place. If you’ve followed along you should have a Slot.it wheel with an insert that matches your stock plastic wheels. Install those wheels on your car and admire your work. On this car I may paint the inside back of the Slot.it wheels flat black to enhance the illusion of aluminum spoke wheels.
Ernie Layacan
#3
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Posted 07 January 2012 - 10:26 PM
Pete,
Try this:
http://www.bwaslotca...rts/Inserts.asp
Here's a sample:
.375 Dia.
fits BW32001/03/05 and Vintage Monogram Rims
And, all BWA 13" Rims
4.00us/SET OF 4
BW375-03-C
Lola Six Spoke with Center Nut.
BW375-08
Cox Cheata style five spoke American Mag.
BW375-13-B
Six Wibble Wobbly Rears for Lotus 23 and 33
Try this:
http://www.bwaslotca...rts/Inserts.asp
Here's a sample:
.375 Dia.
fits BW32001/03/05 and Vintage Monogram Rims
And, all BWA 13" Rims
4.00us/SET OF 4
BW375-01
Five Spoke American Mag/Torque Thrust Style.
BW375-02
Hallibrand Cobra/GT40 Style
with integral Knock Off
BW375-03-B
Lola(T70 etc)Six Spoke with integral Knock Off.
BW375-03-C
Lola Six Spoke with Center Nut.
BW375-05
Minilite.For Trans Am and Classic Sports Racers.
BW375-06
60's Hallibrand with Central Nut
instead of Knock Off
BW375-07
Late 60's through early 80's Ferrari Five Spoke.
BW375-08
Cox Cheata style five spoke American Mag.
BW375-09
McLaren Late Style as used on Can Am and Indy Cars.
BW375-10
Borani Style wire wheel,with
three eared Knock Off.
BW375-11-A
Vintage Monogram wire wheel,no Knock Off.
BW375-11-B
Vintage Monogram wire wheel, two eared
Knock Off.
BW375-11-C
Vintage Monogram wire wheel, three eared
Knock Off
BW375-12
Lola MKVI Mag Wheel
BW375-13-A
Four Wibble Wobbly Fronts for Lotus 23 and 33
BW375-13-B
Six Wibble Wobbly Rears for Lotus 23 and 33
BW322-27
60's Ferrari F1 5 Spoke
BW322-28
60's Brabham F1 4 Spoke
BW375-29
Monogram Midget
Ernie Layacan
#4
Gator Bob
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Posted 07 January 2012 - 10:37 PM
Pete, You didn't specify what type/size but that link Ernie put up has an awesome selection. Professor Motor has some also.
Bob Israelite
#5
munter
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Posted 08 January 2012 - 01:58 AM
Ernie, Al Penrose has temporarily suspended his slotcar enterprise until...???
This has left many 1/32 scale slotcar builders rather lost.
His resin inserts were among the "best available" not to mention his wheels.
I often resort to turning the original plastic hub into an insert for an alloy rim but do it slightly differently than shown above.
I use an exacto saw and slice the plastic rim first, then holding the insert in one hand and a dremel with sanding drum in the other lightly sand and turn,sand and turn the circumference until I get a nice fit.
These two 1/32 cars have had the plastic hub sanded to fit an alloy rim...The auto Union uses Ninco alloys and Ninco plastic wire wheels as inserts and the Lotus has BWA rims and original sixties hubs sanded as inserts.
Pete L have a look at http://www.derbycity...esinRacers.html
They have some 1/24 inserts which I assume you are looking for after reading your thread on that very nice E type sorry, XK Jag
regards
This has left many 1/32 scale slotcar builders rather lost.
His resin inserts were among the "best available" not to mention his wheels.
I often resort to turning the original plastic hub into an insert for an alloy rim but do it slightly differently than shown above.
I use an exacto saw and slice the plastic rim first, then holding the insert in one hand and a dremel with sanding drum in the other lightly sand and turn,sand and turn the circumference until I get a nice fit.
These two 1/32 cars have had the plastic hub sanded to fit an alloy rim...The auto Union uses Ninco alloys and Ninco plastic wire wheels as inserts and the Lotus has BWA rims and original sixties hubs sanded as inserts.
Pete L have a look at http://www.derbycity...esinRacers.html
They have some 1/24 inserts which I assume you are looking for after reading your thread on that very nice E type sorry, XK Jag
regards
John Warren
Slot cars are my preferred reality
#6
don.siegel
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Posted 08 January 2012 - 05:24 AM
Does Patto's do inserts also? Seem to remember that they do... I've gotten various inserts from Australia in the past, but many years ago, and there was even a range made of pewter!
Don
Don
#7
slotbaker
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Posted 08 January 2012 - 06:27 PM
Yes, Bruce does inserts but only vac formed.Does Patto's do inserts also?
They can be made to look OK, but don't have the fine definition as resin, or cut down original wheels.
Steve King
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Posted 08 January 2012 - 09:07 PM
Ernie, Al Penrose has temporarily suspended his slotcar enterprise until...???
Hi John,
I did not notice any disclaimer when I found the website.
Appreciate the assistance so people don't go on wild goose chases!! Thank you for the information.
Ernie
Ernie Layacan
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Posted 08 January 2012 - 09:49 PM
No problems Ernie.
Mr Penrose has relocated, I believe, and is slowly getting his affairs sorted.
He has started making the odd posting on slotforum and SCI but I wish his products would return to the market place soon.
regards
Mr Penrose has relocated, I believe, and is slowly getting his affairs sorted.
He has started making the odd posting on slotforum and SCI but I wish his products would return to the market place soon.
regards
John Warren
Slot cars are my preferred reality
#10
mdiv
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Posted 09 January 2012 - 03:06 PM
Pete,
Tom Andersen does some neato wheel inserts. Those wire wheels and american mags I'ved showed you are from him.
Link: http://home.comcast.net/~ch2a/vsc.html
~Mikey
Tom Andersen does some neato wheel inserts. Those wire wheels and american mags I'ved showed you are from him.
Link: http://home.comcast.net/~ch2a/vsc.html
~Mikey
Mike DiVuolo
C.A.R.S. Vintage Slot Car Club
"Prosecutors will be violated"
#11
endbelldrive
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Posted 09 January 2012 - 05:53 PM
Latest BWA sighting as of 5 hours ago...
"Well, I guess now is as good a time, and place as ever to announce the return of BWA. After a much needed year off, I'm back in business. BUT, I am still a bit upside down with my move and trying to finish off my house (just got heat and hot water going last week, and, my Puter in the house instead of my unheated shed), so, don't expect too much in the way of fast service for at least a few months. Still working on getting the workshop into a semblance of order. Have done a bit of insert casting, so, that is getting operational again. New motors will be back in 6-8 weeks. Well, that's about it for now, more news as it happens."
Al Penrose - Facebook page
"Well, I guess now is as good a time, and place as ever to announce the return of BWA. After a much needed year off, I'm back in business. BUT, I am still a bit upside down with my move and trying to finish off my house (just got heat and hot water going last week, and, my Puter in the house instead of my unheated shed), so, don't expect too much in the way of fast service for at least a few months. Still working on getting the workshop into a semblance of order. Have done a bit of insert casting, so, that is getting operational again. New motors will be back in 6-8 weeks. Well, that's about it for now, more news as it happens."
Al Penrose - Facebook page
Bob Suzuki
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#12
Duffy
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Posted 09 January 2012 - 06:02 PM
AH! Sweet cleansing sweat of ascetic Shiva, we are Back In The High Life!
Michael J. Heinrich
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And I am awaiting
perpetually and forever
a renaissance of wonder
1950-2016
Requiescat in Pace
And I am awaiting
perpetually and forever
a renaissance of wonder
#13
Pete L.
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Posted 09 January 2012 - 07:19 PM
Yes ... what he said !!!
Peter J. Linszky
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#14
Pete L.
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Posted 09 January 2012 - 07:22 PM
Pete,
Tom Andersen does some neato wheel inserts. Those wire wheels and american mags I'ved showed you are from him.
Link: http://home.comcast.net/~ch2a/vsc.html
~Mikey
Mikey,
Thanks, somehow I didn't see that page. He's got a lot of really cool stuff !
Peter J. Linszky
6/30/54-6/27/22
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#15
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Posted 09 January 2012 - 09:51 PM
Duffy, you are a guru.....and so is Mr Penrose
John Warren
Slot cars are my preferred reality
#16
Tim Neja
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Posted 09 January 2012 - 10:51 PM
1/32 inserts are available from Slot it and NSR---BRM has them for 1/24. These are plastic home track car manufacturer's and they have very nice looking inserts. Google them--you'll find plenty.
FYI
T
FYI
T
She's real fine, my 409!!!
#17
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Posted 09 January 2012 - 11:51 PM
Someone started a thread about BRM wheel inserts:
http://slotblog.net/...-wheel-inserts/
Lately I've found several uses for the beautiful BRM wheel inserts.
I used the Toyota inserts for this Mazda 787, painted the rear centers gold and removed the tampo printing from the fronts, these are in BRM wheels.
I started this ScaleAuto chassis for an IMSA Probe body. Used the BRM / BBS inserts from the Porsche.
Then a while back I built a Toyota 88 CV model on a SLP1700 Plafit and used the BRM Toyota inserts again, naturally. This was just the centers glued into the Plafit wheels, no trim ring.
Kinda flat lookin...pun intended.
So after some experience with the ProComp 3 tires, my pal Rick and I decided to re-fit our PlaFit cars with those.
I pulled out my old wheel insert kit leftovers and turned the beauty rings to fit inside the ScaleAuto rims,
Then I drilled the brake hub centers to 11/64" and painted the back side gold.
Next I drilled the wheel centers, also 11/64"
Using tiny dabs of canopy glue to keep it all in the wheel. It all came together to make the car look much better.
I just wish you could buy the beauty rings separately. Since the BRM fronts don't require a separate ring you need to buy two kits to do a car such as the ScaleAuto or use the BRM fronts,that's not always an option.
Dave Deuble
AZGR One
I'd rather be racing!
http://slotblog.net/...-wheel-inserts/
Lately I've found several uses for the beautiful BRM wheel inserts.
I used the Toyota inserts for this Mazda 787, painted the rear centers gold and removed the tampo printing from the fronts, these are in BRM wheels.
I started this ScaleAuto chassis for an IMSA Probe body. Used the BRM / BBS inserts from the Porsche.
Then a while back I built a Toyota 88 CV model on a SLP1700 Plafit and used the BRM Toyota inserts again, naturally. This was just the centers glued into the Plafit wheels, no trim ring.
Kinda flat lookin...pun intended.
So after some experience with the ProComp 3 tires, my pal Rick and I decided to re-fit our PlaFit cars with those.
I pulled out my old wheel insert kit leftovers and turned the beauty rings to fit inside the ScaleAuto rims,
Then I drilled the brake hub centers to 11/64" and painted the back side gold.
Next I drilled the wheel centers, also 11/64"
Using tiny dabs of canopy glue to keep it all in the wheel. It all came together to make the car look much better.
I just wish you could buy the beauty rings separately. Since the BRM fronts don't require a separate ring you need to buy two kits to do a car such as the ScaleAuto or use the BRM fronts,that's not always an option.
Dave Deuble
AZGR One
I'd rather be racing!
Ernie Layacan
#18
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Posted 10 January 2012 - 01:55 AM
It all came together to make the car look much better.
It sure did
John Warren
Slot cars are my preferred reality
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Posted 15 January 2012 - 11:44 PM
I came across these photoengraved stainless steel hubcaps which look pretty nice!
http://www.brshobbie...isp=name&per=10
Just a few samples pix:
Ninco #80725 ProRace 15'' Speedline Hubcaps & Brake Discs (4)
Photoengraved stainless steel 0.20 mm hubcaps. Available in different diameter and designs for all ProRace hubs. Brass, ventilated brake discs have the same type of construction as the hubcaps and give that extra detail to the car that make it outstanding. $ 6.95 Available: 2 More Information Quantity:
Ninco #80726 ProRace F1/CART BBS Hubcaps & Brake Discs (4)
Photoengraved stainless steel 0.20 mm hubcaps. Available in different diameter and designs for all ProRace hubs. Brass, ventilated brake discs have the same type of construction as the hubcaps and give that extra detail to the car that make it outstanding. $ 6.95 Available: 2 More Information Quantity:
Ninco #80727 ProRace F1/CART Motorsport Hubcaps & Brake Discs (4)
Photoengraved stainless steel 0.20 mm hubcaps. Available in different diameter and designs for all ProRace hubs. Brass, ventilated brake discs have the same type of construction as the hubcaps and give that extra detail to the car that make it outstanding. $ 6.95 Available: 2 More Information Quantity:
Ninco #80728 ProRace 15'' Sturdy Hubcaps & Brake Discs (4)
Photoengraved stainless steel 0.20 mm hubcaps. Available in different diameter and designs for all ProRace hubs. Brass, ventilated brake discs have the same type of construction as the hubcaps and give that extra detail to the car that make it outstanding. $ 6.95 Available: 2 More Information Quantity:
Ninco #80729 ProRace 15'' OZ Racing Hubcaps & Brake Discs (4)
Photoengraved stainless steel 0.20 mm hubcaps. Available in different diameter and designs for all ProRace hubs. Brass, ventilated brake discs have the same type of construction as the hubcaps and give that extra detail to the car that make it outstanding. $ 7.50 Available: 2 More Information Quantity:
Ninco #80730 ProRace 17'' Speedline Hubcaps & Brake Discs (4)
Photoengraved stainless steel 0.20 mm hubcaps. Available in different diameter and designs for all ProRace hubs. Brass, ventilated brake discs have the same type of construction as the hubcaps and give that extra detail to the car that make it outstanding. $ 7.50 Available: 3 More Information Quantity:
http://www.brshobbie...isp=name&per=10
Just a few samples pix:
Ninco #80725 ProRace 15'' Speedline Hubcaps & Brake Discs (4)Photoengraved stainless steel 0.20 mm hubcaps. Available in different diameter and designs for all ProRace hubs. Brass, ventilated brake discs have the same type of construction as the hubcaps and give that extra detail to the car that make it outstanding. $ 6.95 Available: 2 More Information Quantity:
Ninco #80726 ProRace F1/CART BBS Hubcaps & Brake Discs (4)Photoengraved stainless steel 0.20 mm hubcaps. Available in different diameter and designs for all ProRace hubs. Brass, ventilated brake discs have the same type of construction as the hubcaps and give that extra detail to the car that make it outstanding. $ 6.95 Available: 2 More Information Quantity:
Ninco #80727 ProRace F1/CART Motorsport Hubcaps & Brake Discs (4)Photoengraved stainless steel 0.20 mm hubcaps. Available in different diameter and designs for all ProRace hubs. Brass, ventilated brake discs have the same type of construction as the hubcaps and give that extra detail to the car that make it outstanding. $ 6.95 Available: 2 More Information Quantity:
Ninco #80728 ProRace 15'' Sturdy Hubcaps & Brake Discs (4)Photoengraved stainless steel 0.20 mm hubcaps. Available in different diameter and designs for all ProRace hubs. Brass, ventilated brake discs have the same type of construction as the hubcaps and give that extra detail to the car that make it outstanding. $ 6.95 Available: 2 More Information Quantity:
Ninco #80729 ProRace 15'' OZ Racing Hubcaps & Brake Discs (4)Photoengraved stainless steel 0.20 mm hubcaps. Available in different diameter and designs for all ProRace hubs. Brass, ventilated brake discs have the same type of construction as the hubcaps and give that extra detail to the car that make it outstanding. $ 7.50 Available: 2 More Information Quantity:
Ninco #80730 ProRace 17'' Speedline Hubcaps & Brake Discs (4)Photoengraved stainless steel 0.20 mm hubcaps. Available in different diameter and designs for all ProRace hubs. Brass, ventilated brake discs have the same type of construction as the hubcaps and give that extra detail to the car that make it outstanding. $ 7.50 Available: 3 More Information Quantity:
Ernie Layacan
