11 replies to this topic

[Craig]

Below is a copy paste of rules for this years race.

Please be reminded that as per the D3 rules, the factory applied identification marks on these motors MUST be visible:
-The Falcon 2 is chemically marked "JK2" on the can on its pinion side.
-The TSR T3215 is marked "TSRF" on the can on its pinion side.

At the post-race tech inspection, any car on which the motor is missing these marks will be automatically disqualified.
Thank you for checking this out BEFORE you enter your car!

Now, I don't have any problem with following procedures. However, If you do what I do and solder your motors in the angle winder chassis the soldering process will remove or hide the etching designating the info you want to see post race. Please let me know what the plans are for this scenario. I'm currently at work and cannot look at my car at the moment but, I think if you put the red dot against the axle tube the etching will be at the bottom of the can where you solder in the motor. And no, I don't want to turn the motor over so the text is at the top. I will check for certain once I get home, by then someone may see this and respond.



v/r

Okay, now that I am home and have inspected the motors that I currently own I post this retraction. The etching is in the correct location so the solder wont cover the motor designation. With the motor soldered in the car and the red dot to the back (closest to the axle tube) the etching is on top. Issue resolved.

On another note.....

Comment: Craig,
The rules have been in the book as long as D3 1/32 scale has existed. You wake up now?

Response: Appearently Philippe, I overlooked that one and jumped the gun. I should have waited until I got home to look at my race car before making this post.

Comment: PS: would you rather have people beating you on the track with unidentifiable motors?

Response: Not really and I'm looking forward to see what happens this weekend on a more level playing field.


I would additionally like to add, I didn't post this thread as a malicious dig or to open any can of worms. I simply wanted to clarify something I was not aware of in the rules set.

Cya all Friday evening

[TSR]

Craig,
The rules have been in the book as long as D3 1/32 scale has existed. You wake up now? Best is to simply turn the motor around so that the markings are... on top, away from the solder!

PS: would you rather have people beating you on the track with unidentifiable motors?

[Mark Wampler]

Point of clarification. This mounting plate, either way the motor stamp witll be covered for FK motors, let alone PS motors.

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[Tim Neja]

They'll inspect the motor OUT of the car if necessary. FWIW---STOP worrying about cheating--and go practice racing!! There's everything possible being done to ensure a fair / fun race. Relax and enjoy.
T

[Mark Wampler]

I solder mine in Tim. I can appreciate the due diligence to catch cheaters, but only 2 CCR motors exist in FK style. There is no need for markings to tell the difference

[Mark Wampler]

This rule, while a good measure in post inspection, puts a crimp in motor mounting as plates would have to be cut lengthwise in half to expose can ID.
Possibly the D3 board (Dennis) would consider only Falcon 2's and the Mini-Brute only for 32 scale racing.

[Tim Neja]

If it's soldered in--it can be taken OUT!

[Mark Wampler]

So.... everyone who doesn't display the can ID from 1st to last had better be prepared to unhook their motor. Even cheaters who fail to get podium should be lined up to dismount their motor. I use a full size mounting plate, so can ID is hidden. Its hidden before the race and it happens to be hidden after the race.

OR... does this only apply for the podium?

[Mark Wampler]

I had also overlooked the can ID rule and because no one at tech had raised the issue or was made aware at the races I've attended, it was a non-existant rule.

To make life a little easier for tech in light of the present spotlight on cheating, the Falcon 2 and Min-Brute are two distinct motors with opposite rotation. That being said, I suppose someone with slick cosmetic ability could possibly slip in a Falcon 5 in costume for a TSR Homeset. I don’t know.

“Just Sayin’”

[TSR]

Craig,
Thanks for your corrected post.
The general idea is that the podium cars will all be checked, for every class at the event. If one fails the inspection because of a rule violation, the next car (4th place) will be checked, and so on until we have three clear winners. I am convinced after we have sent warnings in the past few weeks that we won't need to go that far.

Mark,
Because of the multiplicity of Falcon motors issued in time (1 to 7), if marks have been erased, who knows if it is a F2, F3, F4 or F5? The timing can easily be altered to match what is necessary while performance can be very different. It is VERY easy to make an F5 into an F2, EWould you like someone jetting by you and no check possible because the motor mark on that car has been erased?

Hence, the fair thing is to have a legal motor, and the rules have clearly indicated that the mark MUST be visible. It is up to you racers, to solder your motor in such a way that the mark is not involuntarily erased.
You want fairness? THIS is fair.
So please be kind enough to also be fair to other racers by simply... complying to the rules, that have been on the books for a long time.
I am sure that all will appreciate your efforts in this regard.
Everything that the Board has done regarding procedures is to make racing FAIRER for all. It is not because rules were not enforced in the past that it was a good thing. A good thing is when you are assured that you have an even playing field, and this is what we are addressing.
Thank you for your understanding.

[Mark Wampler]

When I first read this post, I ran in to check my Coupe. It was an early axle tube and mainrail installation, so the can ID is clearly visible. The red terminal towards the axle and ID is on the top.

I merely suggested that many , including my own late anglewinders use brackets now. I'm more than willing at anytime to unsolder the motor for inspection, but there is no guarantee that flux, heat and solder won't deface the markings. Now that I've become aware, I can make some corrections to relocate solder joints on the mounting plate and hopefully avoid the fragile print. Even so, a steath cheater can stamp their own ID. Hope it doesn't go that far.

Thank you for your understanding,

-m

[Bill from NH]

If everybody is so concerned about the motor markings, have the manufacturer move a motor's marking from the end of the can to the top of the can. In the interim, west coast racers could line up a laser engraver to mark their motors locally.