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"T" Bomb!


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#1 Jairus

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Posted 30 May 2007 - 12:13 PM

As I promised earlier, here are some pictures of “T-Bomb” parts and pieces. Will post more when the car is totally assembled and even more posts after a shakedown run has been achieved.

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The frame is simple wire frame using 1/16” steel music wire. A minimalist approach is the goal and only the bare minimum in weight will be initially tried.

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Main rails are also part of the spreader bar at the rear. Wing frames are also 1/16” but smaller diameter could be used and will be used on later models to save weight.

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Body mount is ONE pin tube. There are slots where the body fits down over the axles, front and rear, and that locates the body allowing only up and down movement.

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Sooooo, how do I keep this fast baby on the track without weight? Well, correct body mounting and venting is the secret to be sure! This was a trick of local “Thingy” builders in the NW. Edo and I have proof of this . . . a whole batch of NW Thingy’s built with wire frame/Wedge shaped bodies with built-up motors! The key to this is the venting provided at the back of the body . . . (where the heck do you think Wing cars came from anyway?)

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The wheels are vintage threaded aluminum rims. Lightweight and fairly thin walled . . . they were chosen because they fit the Ortmann rubber beautifully!

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The key to any chassis build, the motor, is a powerhouse utilizing all NOS parts and pieces! The Thorp arm is a 25 single and remains unused other than a simple test on the power pack at 3v. It will be broken-in under water shortly. The can is a Cobra Chinese piece, the endbell a Tradeship with soldered brush tubes and a cooling hole cut to improve airflow. The Thorp motor is a high power wind and unfortunately if I send this bad baby over for the Proxy next year, many of the tracks are of the low power variety. This is unfortunate for our American big power churns . . . And thus requires an additional Plan “B”. And, that is a secondary motor with a softer wind as shown in the next picture . . .

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This motor will be rebuilt with a more standard wind (tied, epoxied, and balanced) for the lower power tracks the Europeans seem to favor. This can be tested by asking my local track owner to drop the voltage to 10v and replacing the “Thorp” mill with this more mild piece (when finished of course) and checking the performance.

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Okay, I guess that’s all for now. More to be reported after final assembly and some testing.
8)

Jairus H Watson - Artist
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#2 Bill from NH

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Posted 30 May 2007 - 12:44 PM

Very interesting chassis, Jairus! It's quite similar to what I have planned for an inline wing car. :) :) The European tracks lack amps, not volts. I'm not sure your proposed test will prove anything other than that any given motor will run slower on 10 volts than 12. :!:

#3 Edo

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Posted 31 May 2007 - 04:29 AM

Tell him, Bill!
Even I know the difference between volts and amps! ;)
In any case our European tracks might not be fed with a lot of amps but 99% of the motors in the Proxy are running perfectly happy and they are fullfilled by the average 10 amps per lane we find on every track we race on. Except your Von Thingy's 26D, which seems to to be a current nympho.
This issue notwithstanding, the T-Bomb is veeery cute especially with that "looser" inspired chassis ("looser" not meant to be offensive, see link below).
E (28AWG master)

PS: "Looser" chassis HERE.
EdoTBertoglio - Maverick assembler (formerly troubled)

Finish Line: the movie

#4 JimR

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Posted 31 May 2007 - 06:26 AM

Jairus - how about a tutorial on how to bend up wire (and sheet stock) so that things come out symmetrical?
Whenever I try bending things it looks like "who did it and ran"! :lol:
Jim Regan

#5 Jairus

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Posted 31 May 2007 - 09:17 AM

Bill and E,
OK guys, then what motor wind do I need for the European tracks that lack amps? I have a few blank arms here and my next trick is to wind some of my own arms but I need direction.
So far all you have managed to do is point out what I don’t know . . . so any suggestions on the motor type and wind?

Jim,
Practice, practice, practice! That is all I can tell you. I bend one wire and check it and then bend another wire and lay it on top of the first making sure they are both the same.
Like everyone else, I use the same tools you do, i.e. hands and needle-nose pliers.

Jairus H Watson - Artist
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#6 don.siegel

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Posted 31 May 2007 - 09:22 AM

Oh . . .

I'm like Jim, thought there was some secret that would avoid so much work . . . ah well, back to the drawing board and pliers . . .

I bet it helps to have an artist's eye like yours though . . .

Don

PS: The stock 26Ds seem to run very well, and I think they're 30 gauge. I would guess up to 29 or maybe 28 is the max (about 50-60 turns) - there's actually the power for larger than that, but not sure the tracks themselves can handle it! I'm sure Edo and Allan can give you more specific info, since I haven't been able to take part in a proxy round this year.

#7 Edo

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Posted 31 May 2007 - 10:08 AM

J,
Champion 507, 517/28, 607, and 617 run beautifully on my Carrera track with 10 amps per lane. I would suggest to try up to 40 turns of 27AWG max for the time being. If you have a ohmmeter any arm that measures up to around .250 milliohm is good on any track which will be encountered in current-starved Europe. ;)
Bye now,
Kaiser Edolf Tuning
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#8 Bill from NH

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Posted 31 May 2007 - 02:13 PM

Jairus, I have no idea what the actual powering is for those tracks other than it's not real stout. Take the lead from Edo and try one of the Champion arms if you have them. If you still want to wind your own, start with 60-65 turns of 30 gauge, advance timed about 25-30 degrees, on a fairly long stack. That won't be as hot as 40 turns of 27 but should be quicker than a modern 16D, which is 70 turns of 30. Edo's 40 turns of 27 will run similar to a Group 20 arm (38t of 27 ga.) and my 60 turns of 30 will run similar to a Challenger arm (55t of 30 ga.) :)

#9 macman

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Posted 02 June 2007 - 11:27 AM

BTW 50 turns of 29 ga. equals Group 12 . . . but with a short stack . . . with a longer stack, although not as long as a 16D, it becomes a Group 15, which I have been told has more torque . . .
Ben Kernan
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#10 Bill from NH

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Posted 02 June 2007 - 07:26 PM

The short stack Box 12 is .350" long, the Group 15 is .440" long. Then you have different diameters also. :)

#11 Jairus

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Posted 03 June 2007 - 10:08 AM

OK guys, based on your responses to my question about arm windings and such . . . I decided to go with the Thorp motor and give it some testing.

Here it is wired and ready to go . . . but so far Professor Motor has yet to deliver the stupid jam muts! Maybe Monday's mail . . .

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8)

Jairus H Watson - Artist
Need something painted, soldered, carved, or killed? - jairuswtsn@aol.com

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#12 Jairus

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Posted 06 June 2007 - 07:49 PM

Jam nuts came yesterday. So I took a few minutes to finish assembly and add a couple of fins to complete the bomb shape. Now, I just need a couple of hours to drive to the track for some testing.

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Jairus H Watson - Artist
Need something painted, soldered, carved, or killed? - jairuswtsn@aol.com

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www.jairuswatson.net
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Check out some of the cool stuff on my Fotki!


#13 Maximo

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Posted 06 June 2007 - 10:21 PM

Now it is DA BOMB!.

-Maximo

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