"T" Bomb!
#1
Posted 30 May 2007 - 12:13 PM
The frame is simple wire frame using 1/16†steel music wire. A minimalist approach is the goal and only the bare minimum in weight will be initially tried.
Main rails are also part of the spreader bar at the rear. Wing frames are also 1/16†but smaller diameter could be used and will be used on later models to save weight.
Body mount is ONE pin tube. There are slots where the body fits down over the axles, front and rear, and that locates the body allowing only up and down movement.
Sooooo, how do I keep this fast baby on the track without weight? Well, correct body mounting and venting is the secret to be sure! This was a trick of local “Thingy†builders in the NW. Edo and I have proof of this . . . a whole batch of NW Thingy’s built with wire frame/Wedge shaped bodies with built-up motors! The key to this is the venting provided at the back of the body . . . (where the heck do you think Wing cars came from anyway?)
The wheels are vintage threaded aluminum rims. Lightweight and fairly thin walled . . . they were chosen because they fit the Ortmann rubber beautifully!
The key to any chassis build, the motor, is a powerhouse utilizing all NOS parts and pieces! The Thorp arm is a 25 single and remains unused other than a simple test on the power pack at 3v. It will be broken-in under water shortly. The can is a Cobra Chinese piece, the endbell a Tradeship with soldered brush tubes and a cooling hole cut to improve airflow. The Thorp motor is a high power wind and unfortunately if I send this bad baby over for the Proxy next year, many of the tracks are of the low power variety. This is unfortunate for our American big power churns . . . And thus requires an additional Plan “Bâ€. And, that is a secondary motor with a softer wind as shown in the next picture . . .
This motor will be rebuilt with a more standard wind (tied, epoxied, and balanced) for the lower power tracks the Europeans seem to favor. This can be tested by asking my local track owner to drop the voltage to 10v and replacing the “Thorp†mill with this more mild piece (when finished of course) and checking the performance.
Okay, I guess that’s all for now. More to be reported after final assembly and some testing.
8)
Jairus H Watson - Artist
Need something painted, soldered, carved, or killed? - jairuswtsn@aol.com
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#2 Bill from NH
Posted 30 May 2007 - 12:44 PM
#3
Posted 31 May 2007 - 04:29 AM
Even I know the difference between volts and amps!
In any case our European tracks might not be fed with a lot of amps but 99% of the motors in the Proxy are running perfectly happy and they are fullfilled by the average 10 amps per lane we find on every track we race on. Except your Von Thingy's 26D, which seems to to be a current nympho.
This issue notwithstanding, the T-Bomb is veeery cute especially with that "looser" inspired chassis ("looser" not meant to be offensive, see link below).
E (28AWG master)
PS: "Looser" chassis HERE.
#4
Posted 31 May 2007 - 06:26 AM
Whenever I try bending things it looks like "who did it and ran"!
#5
Posted 31 May 2007 - 09:17 AM
OK guys, then what motor wind do I need for the European tracks that lack amps? I have a few blank arms here and my next trick is to wind some of my own arms but I need direction.
So far all you have managed to do is point out what I don’t know . . . so any suggestions on the motor type and wind?
Jim,
Practice, practice, practice! That is all I can tell you. I bend one wire and check it and then bend another wire and lay it on top of the first making sure they are both the same.
Like everyone else, I use the same tools you do, i.e. hands and needle-nose pliers.
Jairus H Watson - Artist
Need something painted, soldered, carved, or killed? - jairuswtsn@aol.com
www.slotcarsmag.com
www.jairuswatson.net
http://www.ratholecustoms.com
Check out some of the cool stuff on my Fotki!
#6
Posted 31 May 2007 - 09:22 AM
I'm like Jim, thought there was some secret that would avoid so much work . . . ah well, back to the drawing board and pliers . . .
I bet it helps to have an artist's eye like yours though . . .
Don
PS: The stock 26Ds seem to run very well, and I think they're 30 gauge. I would guess up to 29 or maybe 28 is the max (about 50-60 turns) - there's actually the power for larger than that, but not sure the tracks themselves can handle it! I'm sure Edo and Allan can give you more specific info, since I haven't been able to take part in a proxy round this year.
#7
Posted 31 May 2007 - 10:08 AM
Champion 507, 517/28, 607, and 617 run beautifully on my Carrera track with 10 amps per lane. I would suggest to try up to 40 turns of 27AWG max for the time being. If you have a ohmmeter any arm that measures up to around .250 milliohm is good on any track which will be encountered in current-starved Europe.
Bye now,
Kaiser Edolf Tuning
#8 Bill from NH
Posted 31 May 2007 - 02:13 PM
#9
Posted 02 June 2007 - 11:27 AM
8/3/53-4/11/21
Requiescat in Pace
#10 Bill from NH
Posted 02 June 2007 - 07:26 PM
#11
Posted 03 June 2007 - 10:08 AM
Here it is wired and ready to go . . . but so far Professor Motor has yet to deliver the stupid jam muts! Maybe Monday's mail . . .
8)
Jairus H Watson - Artist
Need something painted, soldered, carved, or killed? - jairuswtsn@aol.com
www.slotcarsmag.com
www.jairuswatson.net
http://www.ratholecustoms.com
Check out some of the cool stuff on my Fotki!
#12
Posted 06 June 2007 - 07:49 PM
Jairus H Watson - Artist
Need something painted, soldered, carved, or killed? - jairuswtsn@aol.com
www.slotcarsmag.com
www.jairuswatson.net
http://www.ratholecustoms.com
Check out some of the cool stuff on my Fotki!
#13
Posted 06 June 2007 - 10:21 PM
-Maximo
David Ray Siller
MAXImum MOtion
Retired Video Game Creator/Designer/Producer
Thingies are my thingy!