16 replies to this topic

[Pablo]

Finally got a Fiddlestick. I'm always careful to match the bends and shapes of my springs before installing, but I thought a tool would help make it even better.

So, I tested springs on a S16C I recently built, and both sides measure about 1.3

My question is, is that all there is to it ? Or are there some tricks ?

Thanks !

[Bill from NH]

Pablo, you read each side & compare your readings. If they're not the same, tweek the weaker spring. The readings you get are relative to your particular Fiddlestick, not exact anything. Since the spring in every Fiddlestick is a little bit different than all the others, you'll get slightly different readings with every Fiddlestick used. It is possible to calibrate a Fiddlestick with a gram scale.

[MSwiss]

When I tried using a Fiddlestick, 25 yrs ago or so, I'll always found it tricky to get repeatable results.
IIRC, you had to push it a fairly precise angle off of the spring hook.

Maybe the spring hooks are shaped a little more optimum than they were back then.

I quickly realized I was spending too much time obsessing over something I didn't feel
I was getting accurate results with and quit using it almost immediately.

I just put my springs on stock and ran them that way my whole Pro career.

The only time I deviated was at the 90 Nat's in the Pro Main.
I had Stu grab a motor I had already used and told him to reduce the tension because the power seemed real low.
After he did it, I put the motor back in, and while I'm not sure it ran any better, it ran well enough for me to win the race.

[Pablo]

Thanks Bill, like I said, both sides are equal about 1.3 so I guess I got lucky on that one.

[Bill from NH]

Pablo, most pairs of new springs will read very close. It's when using some of the previously used springs that I've found a Fiddlestick comes in handy.

Mike Swiss, my Fiddlestick is an old brass one sold to me by John Thorp in the early 70's. I've not experienced the problems you stated. I usually bend my own spring hooks as shown by Messrs. Boyington & Labree. Maybe the newer Fiddlesticks are manufactured differently by Sonic.

[MSwiss]

Bill,
Yeah, I knew I was in trouble when I took it apart and looked at the spring with a microscope
and it had a tiny "666" engraved on the end of the coil.

[idare2bdul]

It would be more repeatable to test the springs on a dedicated jig. Testing them on the motor is less repeatable. The biggest problem is that you have to be kind of anal to measure them consistently and record your data. Since springs are pretty close out of the package most people just replace them fairly regularly or they run them to death.

I believe the fiddelstick has been discontinued by Sonic.

[Champion 507]

I, too, have a fiddlestick but haven't used it much. When I get to that point, I plan to build some sort of jig with which I hope to achieve reasonably accurate results. I just ain't there yet.

Mike, I noticed Sonic's advertising banner just happen to be at the top of this page when I was reading this thread, so I clicked on it. Yes, indeed, they still make fiddlesticks.

[Victor Poulin]

I tend to agree with Swiss,
I bought a new fiddle stick 5 or 6ys ago, and only used it a couple times. I use Champ lights most of the time, and find they are usually very close right out of the bag. I also have had simular results with the newer Proslots.

Vic

[Guy Spaulding]

IMHO, testing spring tension on the motor is best because you take every factor into consideration. (brush length, slot depth, shunt thickness, perch location, etc. Hook the spring in the fiddlestick slot. If you cant see the pointer, DONT just twist the barrel! This can put a twist in the fiddlestick's internal spring and give an inconsistent reading. Always release the motor spring and re-position the fiddlestick slot so you don’t have to twist the barrel after engaging. Then, make sure you position the fiddlestick slot at the same place on each spring and push the spring to the back side of the spring perch. Remember, if you're closer to the end of the spring, you're reading will be different than if you're closer to the coil. Also, make sure you're perpendicular to the spring. Gently push until the spring touches the back side of the spring perch, then slowly back off the pressure. As soon as the spring barely starts to move, that's when you take your reading.

[Pablo]

Bingo. That's what I was looking for, Thanks Guyster !!!!

[MSwiss]

I noticed Sonic's advertising banner just happen to be at the top of this page when I was reading this thread, so I clicked on it. Yes, indeed, they still make fiddlesticks.

I tried to order a Fiddlestick from my main dist., Eagle, and was told they are disc.

I have a feeling the Sonic website is not up to date.

[MSwiss]

I just checked the Sonic website under tools and got the below:

#50-1 The Fiddlestick $17.50 / ea. *DISCONTINUED – LIMITED TO STOCK ON HAND

[MSwiss]

IMHO, if spring tension being super-even, front and back, was important, motors would get slower as the front brush got shorter.

Just the opposite is usually the case, they get faster.

[Guy Spaulding]

Several years ago, I ran with some national champion caliber 12th scale carpet RC drivers, when they were still using brushed motors. They used different brushes and different tension on their stock motors

[Pablo]

I'm agreeing with you, Mike S, based on my test of the very first motor, it was already perfect.
Could be a "must have" tool for someone who quickly assembles a lot of motors without care, as a final check.

[gotboostedvr6]

I changed the spring in my fumblestick to one that was much softer for "fine tuning" .
May be worth looking into further.