16 replies to this topic

[urone]

Is a blast relay and a clicker box the same thing?

[Chris Barnes]

The original full speed bypass relay was an open relay in a small box, back in the late 80's, early 90's. That may be where it got the name. Since then, the automotive light relay has taken over, and controller vendor's have put their "name" to the relay. Like the "Blast Relay".

Chris

[urone]

Thanks Chris

[urone]

I am installing a relay to my Parma Turbo controller, I understand the wiring of the relay but not to the controller. Do I terminate the white wire at the last band of the resistor? I know that the control wire goes from the full power button to the relay so what gauge wire should that be? I want to use 16 ga wire replace the black and white wire is that 16 ga wire to heavy? I am also installing a hindged wiper arm if I can find springs small enough that will work. In advance thanks for any info any one can give on this project.

[Guy Spaulding]

The relay firing circuit must be isolated from the resistor circuit. Som cut the white wire that goes between the full power band of the resistor to the full power contact button. Solder 20 guage wire to the full contact button and run it along with the other wires to your relay energizer contact. The other wires dont need to be large either, because they wont be expected to carry all the current when you want full power. 16 ga is plenty. But I like 12 ga flexible silicone from the relay to the clips.

[Chris Barnes]

In a Parma Turbo, there was a convenient way to install the activation mechanism for the relay.

In the lower portion of the frame, there are holes to allow you to attach a standard size Micro switch with an activation lever . The microswitch is connected to the lower set of screw holes in the frame. The lever(typically 3-4 inches long)cut and bent to activate when the trigger was in the full power position. Then either car power (black) or ground(red) wire was connected to one side of the Normally Open contacts. The other side went to the coil of the relay. The other side of the relay was connected to either red or black wire that was not connected to the micro switch. The the track power (Red) and Ground(Red) wires were connected to the relay.

This connection prevents the relay to be energized when the trigger is not pushed, but bypasses the resistor area of the controller under full power.

You may have to removed a little of the handle in front of the activator arm to allow it to both turn on and off the micro switch.

Chris

[Guy Spaulding]

You are so right, Chris. Here's a couple of controls I built 30 yrs ago.
In the first one there's 30a microswitch on the right for WOT, and a 10a microswitch on the left for brakes.
In the second one, you may get some ideas how to install your hinge. I just used a small brass furniture hinge, then installed a peice of brass stock on the back-side of the trigger. The spring was installed between the hinge and the piece of brass. Smooth, light, consistant pressure. I cant remember if I cut down a spring bought from a hardware store or made one from scratch.

[urone]

Guy and Chris thanks for the info I am ready to gig into my controller and I'll post the results again thanks

[Chris Barnes]

Lorenzo,

Putting a hinge on the trigger is not an easy task. If you are wanting a smoother feel to the trigger, here are a few easier things to do:

I have taken the resistor out of the controller and "faced" it on a steel file. Hold it down and slowly file the bands until you see a change on all the bands. Typically, the dead band could be protruding out just a bit. The dead band and both end bands are pretty thick, so you can take some off of them before you get to the mid bands.

If you can find a new trigger button, you can round the outer edge and let it float inside the hole in the trigger. You can solder a wire to the button (not real easy) and then solder it to the copper part of the trigger. That way it won't fall out.

When the button is in the hole in the copper, take a piece of 220-400 sandpaper between the button and the resistor, grit side out. Pull the trigger for a minute holding down the sandpaper on the resistor. Then you should have a surface that will seat to the resistor.

Just a few things I used to do to Turbo Controllers to make the trigger smooth.

Chris

[urone]

Chris the hinge is not an easy task but I've done a hinged controller in the past. I just read the article on how the hinged wiper arm came to be and saw an easier way make the hinge, using two 90 degree piano wire, I just need to find tiny springs that will work. I also changing the resistor to a 3ohm wet wound but I like your advice thanks

[Guy Spaulding]

Another trick for a smooth-surface resistor. I spread some jb weld epoxy over the contact surface of the resistor, scrape off most of the excess, alow to dry, then sand the surface with wet-or-dry sandpaper. No more ridges at all!

Here's a resistor that started as a "blown" stock parma unit. I removed much of the insulation, soldered the burnt last band, and coated the whole thing with JB weld. This also give you a better view of the cabinet hinge. Wasnt that difficult with the use of the piece of brass stock, installed on the back of the trigger (see previous photo). One spring worked great.

This control didnt have a blast relay, so I went overboard with the shunt wire, in an attempt to get max current flow.

[urone]

I've haven't done the epoxy on the resistor yet but if I can't find any springs I'll have to try that trick. Thanks (and maybe a few shunts?) Funny how some tracks do not allow controllers with blast relays yet allow electronic controllers to be used during a race I don't get it. Again thanks

[Rickard Five]

Lorenzo
Chris had a Great idea with the Music box hinge, but here's the original Fleming Hinge and I can Attest to how smooth and nice it can make a controller, I'm in the process of building a new external Resistor Controller that will Have a Fleming Hinge, roll out for Drag Racing, and a last Relay

[Chris Barnes]

I have built a couple of the Fleming hinges in the past and they work very well. Unfortunately I had a little reliability issues, as the hinge is very small, and probably my assembly in my earlier years.

My philosophy is that instead of putting a bandaid on it, prevent the cause. The reason you want a hinge is because of the roughness of the resistor you are swiping. Then make the resistor smooth and the cause of the problem is greatly decreased. It is also easier and quicker to do than putting a hinge in the controller. Also no more moving parts to break.

[urone]

Is there an adjustable break for the Parma Turbo? The reason I ask is cuz I don't run with the break hooked to the track and the blast relay will not work if that circuit is not in the loop. What ajusta break would work on my Parma turbo? Again thanks for any help on this matter.

[bbr]

just remove the the brake contacts in the frame and you will have no brakes, and then the relay will activate with the "brake" wire hooked up when you go full punch

[urone]

Up date, got the controller assembled went to the track did some testing,controller worked better than expected took 2 tenths off my time. I do not think I have to remove the brakes at all felt really good but the removeal of the brake in the handle is a great idea. Thanks for all the useful information.