32 replies to this topic

[T_Racer]

Have been searching, but couldn't really find what I was looking for. I was trying to pull the motor in my car this weekend to swap out, and couldn't get the solder away from the motor. I have a falcon 7 on my Cheetah 11 flexi chassis. For removing it, I could get the solder hot and liquid, but with it attatched at three points, what is the best way to remove excess solder away from the can? Do you guys use desolder braid, or am I missing a trick?

Thanks, and any other tips for motor install, soldering, etc. would be more than willing to pick up. I am just getting back in after many years out of it, as we just had a new track open up here with some of the old guys I used to race with!!

Travis

[Pablo]

Stop trying to get the solder off before removing the motor. You remove solder AFTER the motor is out, using Soder-Wick.

To remove motor, while heating the joints, pry using an old Xacto knife. A little at a time is called for when you have it soldered in 3 places. Just keep heating joints and prying and it will come out.

Then take your Soder-Wick and press it against the unwanted solder blobs, and push like a scraping motion.

Lots of guys use used, old braid to do this.

[munter]

I sometimes carve solder off motors or chassis' with a scalpel or other sharp blade.

[Guardrail]

I heat the solder up real good and then while holding the chassi tightly, quickly sling your arm towards the floor and stop quickly, It will sling the solder to the floor. Repeat for each solder joint.

[Guy Spaulding]

I recommend against prying the motor out while melting one solder joint, while another solder joint(s) holds the motor firmly in place. You stand a chance of bending the chassis or the motor can, expecially if you solder you motor in three spots


Use inertia.

Hold the car about 8" up in the air. Melt one joint. Then swing the chassis down like you're gonna hit the table, but stop just short, reversing the direction. Much of the molten solder will continue in the downward direction, and splatter on the table. You can also do this over a trash can to catch the solder. A little solder will remain. That's OK. If your motor is soldered in 3 places, repeat the previous step with the 2nd joint. Then use Pablos method on the last joint to finish removing the motor

[team burrito]

I heat the solder up real good and then while holding the chassi tightly, quickly sling your arm towards the floor and stop quickly, It will sling the solder to the floor. Repeat for each solder joint.

I bet that really makes the track owner happy.

[W. J. Dougherty]

Three solder locations is probably over kill. I don't use that many for my C Can motors. I learned to use the Exacto #5 red handle with a chisel type blade to remove D Cans from motor brackets. Now this is all I use for all my motor removals regardless of chassis type... Just heat the solder as normal and slide the blade into the gap. Use this for each joint and the motor will pop right out.

[T_Racer]

Thanks, all!! The track owner helped me put it in. Though three point attatchment didn't stop my dad from slinging it into the wall and knocking it out still.

Seems like the heat and sling method over the table seems the easiest, then wick it away after to clean up for install. Thanks!!

Travis

[Dallas51170]

1.) I use a 1ft square granite tile to solder on. 2.) heat up a joint while holding the car sideways from the front. As the solder starts to flow Tap the car againt the tile. The solder will fall off. Do not hit the car hard against the tile. It doesnt take much and then your motor will fall out. The exacto nife also works, but if you have a place to do the above it works fine. You can also buy a minny torch at harbor freight and heat and tap as well.

Good Luck.

P.S Lots of practice helps

[Mike Patterson]

I never solder the motor directly to the chassis in more than one location. I use a small piece of 3/32" brass tubing on the back of the motor, soldered to the chassis and the motor. Then I solder the motor to the top of the motor bracket. To remove the motor, heat up the tubing, and get it out of the way using whatever method you are comfortable with. Then unsolder the can from the bracket. This worked for me when I raced flexis.

[Guy Spaulding]

I never solder the motor directly to the chassis in more than one location. I use a small piece of 3/32" brass tubing on the back of the motor, soldered to the chassis and the motor. Then I solder the motor to the top of the motor bracket. To remove the motor, heat up the tubing, and get it out of the way using whatever method you are comfortable with. Then unsolder the can from the bracket. This worked for me when I raced flexis.

One of the best methods I ever found!

[Zippity]

Sounds, great. But now alowed by most USRA rules.

"now" or "not"???

The statement is unclear

[NY Nick]

Rusty single edge razor works real good.

[Guy Spaulding]

"now" or "not"???

The statement is unclear

Woops....Finger slip

NOT

I'd like to be allowed to run my "superbrace" too

[Bill from NH]

Nick, they don't have to be rusty. You can use double edge razor blades if you tape one of the edges with strapping tape. That'a an old wing car racer's trick.

[nicky 65]

i use 2 soldering irons at the same time ............heat up both joints and the motor pops right out. very easy

[44 Dave]

I heat the solder up real good and then while holding the chassi tightly, quickly sling your arm towards the floor and stop quickly, It will sling the solder to the floor. Repeat for each solder joint.

That's how I do it!
TIP: Make sure your wearing shoes, hot solder on top of your feet is bad !

[Mike Patterson]

Travis,

Here is a photo of my mounting method:

This is in a Turbo-Flex chassis. The tubing bridges the gap between the motor can and the chassis. Also notice the solder joint along the top of the bracket.

[Bill from NH]

Mike, that piece of tubing makes the solder joint much stronger than just soldering the can to the chassis as some do. In a crash that tube will deflect somewhat, acting as a shock absorber. I use the tubing on the front of the motor can simply because its easier for me to put one there than in back. I've seen Lee Gilbert use such pieces of tubing when mounting motors in his eurosports.

[44 Dave]

I like the "neat" slick 7" brace



and I also run some piano wire from motor mount tab
to the oil lite to stop the pinion and spur being forced apart.



.

[Bill from NH]

Dave, what classes are you running the Flexi 1(Flex Kar) in? I have a couple, but recently I have seen a bunch of new ones on ebay. Your idea of bracing the motor mount plate to the left rear upright is a good one on this particular chassis. I bought one of the Slick 7 steel motor braces but have not used it because I like the 3/32 tube arrangement better.

[44 Dave]

Dave, what classes are you running the Flexi 1(Flex Kar) in? I have a couple, but recently I have seen a bunch of new ones on ebay. Your idea of bracing the motor mount plate to the left rear upright is a good one on this particular chassis. I bought one of the Slick 7 steel motor braces but have not used it because I like the 3/32 tube arrangement better.

3/32 tube works well and is easier to install/remove, I did find the Slick 7 one a bit fiddly to use but works well.

My local track runs ute racing (with 5sec break out rule), having been out of racing for about 16yrs this
and "Retro's" was a great fun way to get my driving up to speed!

[Michael Rigsby]

I use a three point soldering system on my Cheetah 11 chassis that I run in GT1, GTP, and NASCAR. Tacked on the drive side at the bottom to set gear mesh, a piece of 1/8th brass tubing in the front about a 1/4 inch in length, and I use the standard JK supplied brace at the rear and silver solder it in. To remove it, I take the tubing out, then use a pocket screwdriver to work the rear brace away as I heat it with a soldering iron. Then all I have to do it heat the tack solder point to get the motor out. It may seem like a lot, but I don't get that much heat on the motor and I have on occaision changed/resoldered a motor during the between heat break. I've never had to use razor blades, never had to bend the chassis, and never had to do the solder fling thing (don't like putting solder on the track owners floor..very nasty habit).

When I tried the Kelly/Speed FX two piece chassis, I used the tubing at the front and rear and tacked the top of the motor to the bracket. Again, very easy to get the motor out without putting a lot of heat on the can.

[Guy Spaulding]

Well, I like using this motor brace. Wish it was USRA legal

[Tattoo_Paul]

Another question regarding soldering in motors: What is the best type of solder to use? I have a difficult time getting anything to stick to a Cheetah 21 chassis, and I'm really not comfortable with using acid flux without being able to neutralize it on the can and chassis. I have a Haikko FX-888 soldering station. What is the best temp for soldering in a motor? (My blistered fingers will thank all who contribute!)