39 replies to this topic

[Tex]

OK, I don't remember where or when I read it, but I THINK I was told that oillites have oil in them, "cutting oil" used in the manufacturing process, and that boiling such oil out of the oillites is advisable before using them. I've done this many times, putting the oillite on the end of a hot soldering iron and watching that oil cook out of the oillite and evaporate.

I've run into a problem, however, when I've done this; once having cooked the cutting out out of the oillite, I can't seem to get solder to stick to them when soldering them into a chassis. Can Mr. Peabody or Sherman tell me what's the deal?

[NJ SpeedZone]

Tex,

You need to requench the bushings. It is best requenched with your racing oil.

[Tex]

"Requench". I may have been told that before but had forgotten. It seems counter-intuitive, to have the oillite soak up oil so that solder can stick to it. Thanks, Jay.

Just for the heck of it, can someone 'splain to us what scientifically happens during the cooking out process that renders the oillite unsolderable? Just curious, ya know; we ain't got nuthin' better to do down here in Tejas than to watch the grass turn brown and die. Gets boring after a while.

[Gator Bob]

Re-quench the brown grass till the scientists come around. Did ya try using acid...liberally?

[slotbaker]

If they are sintered bearings, they would not have 'cutting' oil in them as the process to manufacture is a compression moulding of bronze granuals.
I've always thought the oil in sintered bearings is a lubricating oil put in by the factory to pre-lube them.

If they are machined bearings, they would be made from bar stock that is not porous (by our understanding) and would only require cleaning the surface oil if any. That oil would/could be cutting oil.

In any case, "cutting" oil is not a bad thing. After all it is a lubricant to keep the tool tip and work piece cool and lubricated for a better finish.
It doesn't 'cut'.

I'm not sure why you can't solder the bearings, but I wouldn't worry about "boiling" out the oil.

[gascarnut]

Tex,

Re-quenching the oilites is necessary for racing, not for soldering. That's why the oilites are made the way they are - os they can hold oil inthe ittle pockets formed when the bushings are sintered.

To solder them, clean the outer surfaces with lighter fluid to get rid of surface oil, and use acid flux. Sometimes it helps to file them a bit too, with a needle file or some 320 waterpaper.

[Tex]

All good advice. But I still don't understand what it is that happens when I've cooked the oil out of the oillites that prevents them from being soldered. And, yes, I use acid flux liberally. Since encountering this phenomenon a couple of times and being unsuccessful at resolving it, I no longer cook the oil out; I just solder 'em in. Not that it matters at my level of play. I only asked the question as I'm about to install some oillites in my 1/32 anglewinder for the SWC and remembered my previous experiences when cooking the oil out.

[gascarnut]

Tex,

I would say that if you have problems soldering the oilites after the oil has been cooked out, it is because the heat has left a film of burnt oil on the outside of the bushing. That's why I suggested the use of a file or waterpaper, as I doubt the acid flux will break through the burnt oil layer.

BTW there's nothing stopping you using red Loctite to hold oilites in, same as for bearings, and bearings are legal in Retro32 as well.

[Gator Bob]

Oilite was developed by Chrysler in 1930

Oilite® Bearings are renowned worldwide for an unbeatable reputation of quality and innovation. In addition, the Oilite Bearing Division delivers solutions to application-specific requirements.

_{OILITE is a Registered Trademark of Beemer Precision, Inc. in the USA, Canada, United Kingdom and European Union.}

[Bill from NH]

I cook bushings on my Ungar. Once the oilites have stop smoking & cooled, I use a steel Dremel brush to remove the burnt oil residue left on the bushing's outside. The Dremel brush serves the same purpose as Dennis's file & waterpaper. The bushings are soldered in dry, without any lubricant, using 60/40 solder & acid flux. The heat from the soldering-in process will allow the oilite material to suck in clean oil, when it's applied. This procedure also works for a motor's can bushing. Tex, I first read of using this process from your fellow Texan, John Ford, in an early issue of SARN.

[Tex]

Tex,

I would say that if you have problems soldering the oilites after the oil has been cooked out, it is because the heat has left a film of burnt oil on the outside of the bushing. That's why I suggested the use of a file or waterpaper, as I doubt the acid flux will break through the burnt oil layer.

BTW there's nothing stopping you using red Loctite to hold oilites in, same as for bearings, and bearings are legal in Retro32 as well.

I guess I can buy the burnt oil film explanation... it's the only explanation offered. Thanks!

And you say ball bearings are LEGAL in Retro32?! Why did I think only oillites were allowed(?). I checked the new SCRRA rules AND the old D3 rules and couldn't find ANYthing specifying "oillites only"; there's just no verbiage at ALL regarding bearings vs. bushings. Funny how we(me!) seem to make up what we think should be. Doh! LOL Thanks for the heads-up!

[Ron Hershman]

I guess I can buy the burnt oil film explanation... it's the only explanation offered. Thanks!

Yep that is what it........ all you have to do is use "more" acid flux on it.... solder it.... then take a wire brush and "scrub" it up a little and re flux and re solder..... repeat until you have a nice "flow" of solder around the bushing to the can/chassis.

As for "cooking" out the oil used in the MFG process and "quenching" in a "better" quality of oil....... I could never see any difference.

I always "vacuum impregnated" my oilites just like they do in the MFG process when making "sintered" bushings.

Chrysler/Amplex owned the name "oilite" but many many companies out there make "sintered" bushings to this day.... both on shore and off shore.

Mura used Amplex bushings until the late 80's. Then they went off shore for them.

[Old pink can guy]

If you want to use oil lite Slick 7 worked for me in the early 90's when I was doin outlaw 12. Just oil them after every heat. Never had a failure. Ken.

[Pablo]

Ken maybe Slick 7 made oilites back then, but they don't make them today. Maybe you mean BUSHINGS ?

[Gator Bob]

I always "vacuum impregnated" my oilites just like they do in the MFG process when making "sintered" bushings.

So .... then you had a bunch of little motor bushings running around saying "where's my Mommy"?

[Old pink can guy]

Pablo. my mistake. I thought we were talking about rear axel bearings. And you are correct. I ran the bushings. and still use them for chassis building then use the ball bearings. Thanks Ken.

[Tex]

What's the difference between bushings and oillites? Perhaps I misidentified what I was talking about.

[zipper]

Oilite ® = regged TM

[Gator Bob]

Funny thing though...the ^TM holder calls them Oilite® Bearings.
IIRC back in the day so did we.

[Gator Bob]

What's the difference between bushings and oillites? Perhaps I misidentified what I was talking about.

Tissue - Kleenex

[Guy Spaulding]

Bushings are machined from bar stock and must be oiled frequently. Oilites are compressed powder (sintered). They dont need to be oiled so often because they are porous and will soak up (quench) and hold oil for a period of time.

[Ron Hershman]

I have heard and seen oilites packaged/named the following....

Oilite bushings

Oilite bearings

Oilites just called bushings

Oilites just called bearings

Oilites just called oilites

To me a "bushing" can be machined, sintered and when someone says "bushings" I think oilites.

When they say bearings.... I ask..... ball bearings or oilite bushings?

Then if the are not made by the company that owns the rights to "Oilite".... then they are bushings or as some call them bearings.

[Rick]

Oilite WAS a brand name but it became generic.( in slots) There is really no reason to try and circumvent the system and boil out the oil that they put in there. Once the bushing heats up a tad it will release the oil to lube itself and then re-absorb it. They don't require frequent oiling and are not broke, so why try to fix them? Flux 'em and install................LOL

[Ron Hershman]

. Once the bushing heats up a tad it will release the oil to lube itself and then re-absorb it. They don't require frequent oiling

You don't see anyone out "oiling" the "bushings" in their Altenators in their real cars every two or three minutes

[Gator Bob]

Exactly... more oil does not equal more speed. I see guys oiling most every heat .... whatever!

Ever hear anyone say the bushing wore out in my alternator?

The bushing (oilite) / bearing (BB) nomenclature works good for slots. When I got back in I was (and sometimes still) calling them bearings. Getting funny looks is fun.

No biggie we know the diff.

While it sounds right... like ...you would need to have all the oil out to get solder to take. Most people solder can bushings in without the boiled in oil ritual.
I just clean them off with CRC type brake cleaner and flux'em in. Don't see the point to boil out the oil first cause they seem to solder just fine for me.